XR650R Thread!

[Kiko]

Originally Posted by COXR650L

So I am hoping someone can offer some insight to a Carb issue I keep having on my Dads XRR.

Intermittently it runs gas out of the overflow. It does not do it all the time and never when cold. I have literally pulled the carb apart about 10 times trying to fix this. The carb has been cleaned, float level set to 19mm (and then moved in either direction trying to get it to stop) new float assembly, and new needle and seat. The carb appears to function fine off the bike, but after riding for about 20 min it will be pouring out the over flow.


What is the issue? I dont know what else to check???

Some of the aftermarket gas cap vent hoses have an in-line check valve that can cause a problem.

[COXR650L]

Originally Posted by Kiko

Some of the aftermarket gas cap vent hoses have an in-line check valve that can cause a problem.

I thought about that but its the stock gas cap with just a straight hose.....

[the_hulkamaniac]

Originally Posted by stuntheavy

You epoxied it on and then bored it? What did you bore it with? Do you have any pictures?

How much did the aadapter You?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

$65 like it said on the site, I used an epoxy from my bodyshop, but JB Weld will do, don't use to much sand and clean the the panels that touch. Make sure the vent holes don't get plugged and are aligned

Here is something to consider, http://www.tokyomods.com/carburetion/carburetion.html the accessory carb kit is very good. For the money I would just send them your carb plus adapter and let them do it all.

Plus you will have to heat and shape your tank, the stock one was hard to do. The IMS was really easy to make it fit.

I'll get a picture up this weekend of how mine fits.

[the_hulkamaniac]

Originally Posted by crypto666

He bored with a slide show from his vacation.

SOrry, I couldn't help it.

Everyone I know of takes it to a machine shop to have it done on a mill or lathe.

You try doing at home, but success is not likely unless you live in a machine shop.

[BuRPsa]

Hulk,

I'm sure Stunt asked why you you first glued it on and then next/afterwards had it bored out - which of course is silly to do, I'd bore/lathe it first, then mount it. I actually doubt you did, if only for the difficult clamping-in into a lathe's head.
Stunt: turn out first, then glue on. As he said pay good attention not to block any venting holes/bores, you'll end up with a nightmare.


Cox,

check if the float does not stick, like in it must 'rattle' when you've got the carb in your hands (empty, no fuel). If not find the cause, some have reported it does stick sometimes.
Otherwise, check the screen of your fuel tap (petcock) - in A1 condition? If not add an inline fuel filter, and, contrary to what some have said here recently I believe in them, never had a single problem with them.
But also, wash your tank. Add some (washed, coarse!) sand to some petrol, and shake the tank in all positions until it is cleaner than when new. Rinse out, re-rinse again & again, then mount the (obviously removed - duh!) tap and you're good to go.
19mm eh? I believe you, correct size too, but you did measure this whilst rotating the calb & blowing through the fuel line to determine at what carb-angle the needle closes, and measure at that angle? If not do this, it's the correct procedure, and you'll get a different floatheight (closing sooner!) than when fully upside-down.

[the_hulkamaniac]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Hulk,

I'm sure Stunt asked why you you first glued it on and then next/afterwards had it bored out - which of course is silly to do, I'd bore/lathe it first, then mount it. I actually doubt you did, if only for the difficult clamping-in into a lathe's head.
Stunt: turn out first, then glue on. As he said pay good attention not to block any venting holes/bores, you'll end up with a nightmare.


.

I used an aluminium bonding epoxy, Similar to Wurth Powerbond. Let the stuff setup and it's basically one piece. I tore the carb down and sent it off for machine work. The Noss adapter is made for a 41mm carb, I didn't want any chance of the transition being off, plus i wanted a larger carb. I sent it to a shop that does a lot of machine work for me they bored it without a problem and their porting guy flowed in the transition because it was a straight bore.

It's a really nice carb,

I have a 43.5mm unit that was worked over by Dasa Racing but I would need to get another Noss and have it matched. But I'm really happy with what the 42.5mm carb does for the 650r, I don't feel the need to go ahead with the larger carb.

[Bench Racer]

Hey. First post here at ADV. I've been lurking for a while. I thought I'd show the brace I made today for the rear fender. Now I have no experience welding but I'm a pretty hands on guy. So I thought I would give it a try. I have the tools available to use, here's what I came up with. 3/4"-1/16" square tubing, 1/8"-1" flat bar.

[ZXRaziel]

Bad news , decided to adjust the chain for the first time today , i knew about the problems others have had with the adjustment screws , and did loads of soaking with release oil in preparation for the operation (started weeks in advance ) , did the right side , cleaned and lubed , moved to the left side , it felt siezed , i was carefull but the left side screw snapped i am so angry , the design its flawed so badly , even if you know about the problem ,



if the screw rusted from inside you are fu..ed , more farkling neded and not enough time

[Mur]

Originally Posted by ZXRaziel

Bad news , decided to adjust the chain for the first time today , i knew about the problems otheres have had with the adjustment screws , and did loads of soaking with release oil in preparation for the operation (started weeks in advance ) , did the right side , cleaned and lubed , moved to the left side , it felt siezed , i was carefull but the left side screw snapped i am so angry , the design its flawed so badly , even if you know about the problem ,



if the screw rusted from inside you are fu..ed , more farkling neded and not enough time

I feel your pain. I had to put helicoils in mine, when I first got my bike.

[seasider]

What Timing!
Did mine today on a fairly unmolested xrr I picked up in October and same deal. Right side workable and removed but drive side seized half way out. Lots of back and forth and kept getting tighter until no motion and twisting of the bolt was evident.

Out comes the drill and a well placed hole on top. Front end high in the air and fill the end of the swingarm with PB Blaster. Heat. Soak. Tap with hammer. repeat for two hours.
Finally backed it out with the help of a battery op impact driver using a back and forth until it would come all the way.

I will use the plugged hole I drilled to periodically shoot some wd or similar lubricant in and pay much more attention to these adjusters.

Hope this helps someone else. FYI had the snapped adjuster issue on an 05 crf. Same design. Still love me a Honda though

[ZXRaziel]

Originally Posted by seasider

What Timing!
Did mine today on a fairly unmolested xrr I picked up in October and same deal. Right side workable and removed but drive side seized half way out. Lots of back and forth and kept getting tighter until no motion and twisting of the bolt was evident.

Out comes the drill and a well placed hole on top. Front end high in the air and fill the end of the swingarm with PB Blaster. Heat. Soak. Tap with hammer. repeat for two hours.
Finally backed it out with the help of a battery op impact driver using a back and forth until it would come all the way.

I will use the plugged hole I drilled to periodically shoot some wd or similar lubricant in and pay much more attention to these adjusters.

Hope this helps someone else. FYI had the snapped adjuster issue on an 05 crf. Same design. Still love me a Honda though

What angers me is the fact that i knew about this problem and kept spraing it with WD40 since i got the bike , it was waste of time the fecker snapped anyway . , Shitty design , simple .

[Sean-0]

I do agree it's a bad design ....thoi have never had a problem ..wd40 would not be my choice

i use a never size past and it works well .. i do run 2 types o wheels so i do change them a bit ....but every time i do i wind them out and put the past on

[RideFreak]

Originally Posted by ZXRaziel

What angers me is the fact that i knew about this problem and kept spraing it with WD40 since i got the bike , it was waste of time the fecker snapped anyway . , Shitty design , simple .

That's not exclusive to Honda, most modern dirt bikes have hollow swing arms, we all want light bikes, this is part of the price. All bikes that use a forward facing adj bolts that penitrate into the hollow area are susceptible to this problem. You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

Unfortunately WD40 is almost worthless for a alum2steel corrosion problem like the adjusters. Some folks drill drain holes, not sure if I agree with that as it adds another entrance point for water. Plain old grease seems to work very well.

[Kiko]

Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.

[Shibby!]

Originally Posted by Kiko

Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.

People's ATF and Acetone mix is used a penetrating fluid. I'm sure he could just spray it from the outside as well.

How come I'm the only one who never has this issue? Lol. I do anti seize them once and awhile.