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Old 02-18-2013, 01:34 AM   #16081
jm-2008
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: South Eastern Australia
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Wd40

WD40 -
(AKA water dispersant formula ver 40?)
Great product, good for lots of stuff especially dispersing water in electrical's, as a light lube and doubtless lots of other applications in a 'one size fits all kind of way'

BUT will not compensate for lack of maintenance, suggest we should all have a small can of high temp grease and apply to (almost) every bolt in sight.
Have had a can for 20+ years and still no where near empty as it only takes a very small amount.
The exhaust manifold, flange bolts, muffler clamp etc are a good place to start.
Do a couple every time you service the bike and after a while most of the bolts will have a preventative coating that will aid disassembly.
If you find a seized bolt, best find out at home in the garage rather than out in the field, fix the problem, grease it - done!

Rant over

JM-2008
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:47 AM   #16082
Lostsaffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
WD40 -
(AKA water dispersant formula ver 40?)
Great product, good for lots of stuff especially dispersing water in electrical's, as a light lube and doubtless lots of other applications in a 'one size fits all kind of way'

BUT will not compensate for lack of maintenance, suggest we should all have a small can of high temp grease and apply to (almost) every bolt in sight.
Have had a can for 20+ years and still no where near empty as it only takes a very small amount.
The exhaust manifold, flange bolts, muffler clamp etc are a good place to start.
Do a couple every time you service the bike and after a while most of the bolts will have a preventative coating that will aid disassembly.
If you find a seized bolt, best find out at home in the garage rather than out in the field, fix the problem, grease it - done!

Rant over

JM-2008
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:50 AM   #16083
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Shibby, you're not alone, we don't post when we successfully remove the adjuster only when someone breaks it off.
Yep. Exactly right. I keep "Never Seize" on mine and have never had a problem.


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Old 02-18-2013, 03:54 AM   #16084
Kiko
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A lot of riders have drilled a small drain hole at the bottom of the swing arm near the adjuster bolt. Just check it every once in a while to make sure it stays open. My adjusters were frozen when I first got my bike because the previous owner seldom rode I suppose.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:40 AM   #16085
CatSailor
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Adjuster seizure

Been using the hi-temp anti-seize with no problem, but looking at this thread I think waterproof grease is in order.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:28 AM   #16086
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
Ooh you clever Dick you......... you're right!!!!!
And on this, just a few torque settings are to be applied, like head, swinger, and... umm, well, can't think of any, the rest I do all by hand - and I bet a lot of guys do this, those who work regularly on bikes or engines.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:38 AM   #16087
BuRPsa
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Larryboy,

just finished reading your BMH(onda)-build thread - awesome, respect! You jump with it eh? You're a nutter you



For what it is worth, I also think penetrating oil is good for very little or nothing, and I swear (for the adjusters especially) by anti-seize compound, or Coppaslip/Copper Compound. All these are high-heat paste's, also great for on the (back only!!!) brakepads, plus sides where they slide.
And, any grease used on an offroad has to be waterproof grease, as normal grease simply washes away over time. But, by all means use normal grease for those points which you disassemble as regularly as RF does, and clean & renew.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #16088
EduardoMas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSailor View Post
Been using the hi-temp anti-seize with no problem, but looking at this thread I think waterproof grease is in order.
Antisieze is made just for this purpose. There is no water washing it off as there is no flow. I use MMC-77 since '05 w/o issues. It gets reapplied only once a year, but it never looks like it washes out.
The adjusters are moved back and forth full range at least 8x a year as wheels with different sprockets go on the bike.

My XRR has M4 Tapped holes (with a screw) on the swing arm that are opened periodically to let the water out. M6 seemed too large for the area that needs the drain. I plug the hole so muck does not go in freely. Sometimes half a cup of water comes out after a weekend in sunken roads and ponds.

Just wanted to share.

PS, McMaster Carr PN 10105K41 seems like something worth a try.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:49 AM   #16089
crypto666
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For what its worth, my right side adjuster has been seized for a long time and I never was able to remove it. So I pretend it doesn't exist, and no issues. However, the left side might be different to try and live without.

On a societal level, I would really like to not have a left side.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:07 AM   #16090
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
Good point, it'd matter if I used a torque wrench which I rarely do Cyl head bolts and cam caps are about all I pull it out for. Yeah I know, I'm lazy in that regard but I purposly use t handles when possible or else small wrenches. Rarely if ever do I see an issue with that method. For most of the hardware it doesn't really matter as long as it's not cranked down on (overly tight) and the wrench operator has a good feel for the tool being used. I've watched more than one race team assemble a top end and the cyl head bolts and cam caps were the only things I saw it being used on. If you're a person who's prone to snapping off a bolt, the TW is a great idea.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:11 AM   #16091
nick5446
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Anyone know anyone looking for an XRR? I listed mine for sale here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=861489

Seems like it's a buyer's market for these things, but it's all good. No rush to sell.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:17 AM   #16092
EduardoMas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
For what its worth, my right side adjuster has been seized for a long time and I never was able to remove it. So I pretend it doesn't exist, and no issues. However, the left side might be different to try and live without.

On a societal level, I would really like to not have a left side.
Google ways to remove the screw and out of the many links a few will be good. They will all require time and patience… blah, blah…

But say the worst happened and the screw snaps.
Grind it flush with a Dremel ®.
Drill and tap the SQUARE end of the axle with an M6… taking the care to drill square to the flats and at 90deg from the axle. Tap through from one side only. Get a long screw, or a treaded rod, screw on axle and use the jam-nut.
Use the square and of the axle on the “bad side”, and the nut on the good side.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:21 AM   #16093
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Good point, it'd matter if I used a torque wrench which I rarely do Cyl head bolts and cam caps are about all I pull it out for. Yeah I know, I'm lazy in that regard but I purposly use t handles when possible or else small wrenches. Rarely if ever do I see an issue with that method. For most of the hardware it doesn't really matter as long as it's not cranked down on (overly tight) and the wrench operator has a good feel for the tool being used. I've watched more than one race team assemble a top end and the cyl head bolts and cam caps were the only things I saw it being used on. If you're a person who's prone to snapping off a bolt, the TW is a great idea.
I kind of hand torque guy too, but what about your triples? I use a torque wrench on my triples and rear axle, as well as the obvious engine stuff. I worry about over torqueing the lower clamps on the forks because of the chance of deforming the tubes, which I worry I might have done the other day when I had the wrench set at 27lbs instead of 24.

Then of course once I realized this I compressed the forks and can feel a tight spot about a third of the way in the stroke. I hoping its just an oil level problem, but I am going to pull them tonight to figure it out.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #16094
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I kind of hand torque guy too, but what about your triples? I use a torque wrench on my triples and rear axle, as well as the obvious engine stuff. I worry about over torqueing the lower clamps on the forks because of the chance of deforming the tubes, which I worry I might have done the other day when I had the wrench set at 27lbs instead of 24.

Then of course once I realized this I compressed the forks and can feel a tight spot about a third of the way in the stroke. I hoping its just an oil level problem, but I am going to pull them tonight to figure it out.
Nope, not there ether. I've never seen a deformed fork tube from the triple clamps. It's my understanding that the torque on the triples is to keep from snapping off the alum ears which I've seen before. It was caused by over torquing the bolts and the tube was fine.

Those tubes are very stout and are pretty hard to deform, look at a MC that's hit the back of a car, yeah there going to bend but they don't usally fold under. I'd be surprised if the torque was your problem, even if it's was deformed which I doubt, there's nothing internal that runs up the inside of the tubes that's even close to touching the inner wall of the leg in that area. It's the spring that sits in that area and that has plenty of clearance.
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RideFreak screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 09:33 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #16095
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EduardoMas View Post
Google ways to remove the screw and out of the many links a few will be good. They will all require time and patience… blah, blah…

But say the worst happened and the screw snaps.
Grind it flush with a Dremel ®.
Drill and tap the SQUARE end of the axle with an M6… taking the care to drill square to the flats and at 90deg from the axle. Tap through from one side only. Get a long screw, or a treaded rod, screw on axle and use the jam-nut.
Use the square and of the axle on the “bad side”, and the nut on the good side.
Nah, I just jammed a smashed up beer can in it and called it good.

Kidding, it doesn't cause me any issues so maybe when I retire I will fix it.
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