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Old 02-17-2013, 08:48 PM   #16081
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
How come I'm the only one who never has this issue? Lol. I do anti seize them once and awhile.
Shibby, you're not alone, we don't post when we successfully remove the adjuster only when someone breaks it off.

This should be a sticky.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:52 PM   #16082
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Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
Someone once mentioned to me that you can remove the swing arm and then pour some ATF/acetone 50/50 mix into the swing arm from the topside. Let it sit a few hours. The fluid will soak thru the threads and then you can remove the adjuster bolt. Never tried it but sounds like it might work.
Worked for me with penetrating oil. I let it soak overnight, came out the next day and it came out easy.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:20 AM   #16083
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This stuff works very good. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...usemilkoil.php
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:03 AM   #16084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
That's not exclusive to Honda, most modern dirt bikes have hollow swing arms, we all want light bikes, this is part of the price. All bikes that use a forward facing adj bolts that penitrate into the hollow area are susceptible to this problem. You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

Unfortunately WD40 is almost worthless for a alum2steel corrosion problem like the adjusters. Some folks drill drain holes, not sure if I agree with that as it adds another entrance point for water. Plain old grease seems to work very well.
There was no water inside , i have had them out when bought the bike and aplayed some copper grease slip , it was hard to take apart but it worked , then during winter kept spraing the WD40 all over the beast just to be safe as the bike sits in the garage for few months ,all this did nothing to help . The screw adjust is designed for racing i think , its meant to be moved often , if it stands for longer periods of time the ALU/Steel reaction starts
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:10 AM   #16085
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wd 40 aint a good thing ....anti seize those bolts they will be fine for long periods ..wd40 turns to a tacky mess ....use a silicone spray much better if you must do that .... i would just cover with a blanket and put on a lift .....i have left my bike sit for months like that with no issues at all
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:12 AM   #16086
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Brake /clutch fluid mixed with aceton works , Heat works where possible and this is my favorite
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4000624717...84.m1438.l2649

Loctite freeze release works good and no damage to the surrounding parts . Too bad i had none left when i did the damage
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:16 AM   #16087
jm-2008
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Seized Bolts

[QUOTE=RideFreak;20748406] You need to fully remove and grease the bolt every time you remove the rear wheel and it will quit being a problem, takes all of 10 min. It really should be part of every dirtbike owner's normal maint routine.

+1 on that suggestion
I use a high heat anti-seize compound on the bolts and ditto no issues.
(for that matter its a good idea to remove/antiseize every bolt you can see, especially under the rear guard as these will defiantly seize into the nutcerts)
Just plain grease will work fine also if done regularly (when the wheel comes out)

The small white plastic rear brake hose retaining clip is a good place for water to get into the swing arm
Has a locating spigot to orientate it correctly but there is a matching hole in the top of the swing arm for it.
Suspect thats one of the places mine gets mine gets water ingress.
If you suspect there is water in there when you get the bolts out squirt some methylated (Metho) spirits in there and let drain.
Water and Metho mix and its a sure fire way to get water out of awkward places.

JM-2008
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:18 AM   #16088
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
wd 40 aint a good thing ....anti seize those bolts they will be fine for long periods ..wd40 turns to a tacky mess ....use a silicone spray much better if you must do that .... i would just cover with a blanket and put on a lift .....i have left my bike sit for months like that with no issues at all
Thank you for the advice Sean-0 , i think the WD40 actualy flushed the copper grease out allowing the metals to bond and the screws have already sufered some stress with the previous owner , its a old girl after all ,
lesson learned .

But i still love her
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:34 AM   #16089
jm-2008
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Wd40

WD40 -
(AKA water dispersant formula ver 40?)
Great product, good for lots of stuff especially dispersing water in electrical's, as a light lube and doubtless lots of other applications in a 'one size fits all kind of way'

BUT will not compensate for lack of maintenance, suggest we should all have a small can of high temp grease and apply to (almost) every bolt in sight.
Have had a can for 20+ years and still no where near empty as it only takes a very small amount.
The exhaust manifold, flange bolts, muffler clamp etc are a good place to start.
Do a couple every time you service the bike and after a while most of the bolts will have a preventative coating that will aid disassembly.
If you find a seized bolt, best find out at home in the garage rather than out in the field, fix the problem, grease it - done!

Rant over

JM-2008
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:47 AM   #16090
Lostsaffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
WD40 -
(AKA water dispersant formula ver 40?)
Great product, good for lots of stuff especially dispersing water in electrical's, as a light lube and doubtless lots of other applications in a 'one size fits all kind of way'

BUT will not compensate for lack of maintenance, suggest we should all have a small can of high temp grease and apply to (almost) every bolt in sight.
Have had a can for 20+ years and still no where near empty as it only takes a very small amount.
The exhaust manifold, flange bolts, muffler clamp etc are a good place to start.
Do a couple every time you service the bike and after a while most of the bolts will have a preventative coating that will aid disassembly.
If you find a seized bolt, best find out at home in the garage rather than out in the field, fix the problem, grease it - done!

Rant over

JM-2008
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:50 AM   #16091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Shibby, you're not alone, we don't post when we successfully remove the adjuster only when someone breaks it off.
Yep. Exactly right. I keep "Never Seize" on mine and have never had a problem.


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Old 02-18-2013, 04:54 AM   #16092
Kiko
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A lot of riders have drilled a small drain hole at the bottom of the swing arm near the adjuster bolt. Just check it every once in a while to make sure it stays open. My adjusters were frozen when I first got my bike because the previous owner seldom rode I suppose.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:40 AM   #16093
CatSailor
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Adjuster seizure

Been using the hi-temp anti-seize with no problem, but looking at this thread I think waterproof grease is in order.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #16094
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
Ooh you clever Dick you......... you're right!!!!!
And on this, just a few torque settings are to be applied, like head, swinger, and... umm, well, can't think of any, the rest I do all by hand - and I bet a lot of guys do this, those who work regularly on bikes or engines.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:38 AM   #16095
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Larryboy,

just finished reading your BMH(onda)-build thread - awesome, respect! You jump with it eh? You're a nutter you



For what it is worth, I also think penetrating oil is good for very little or nothing, and I swear (for the adjusters especially) by anti-seize compound, or Coppaslip/Copper Compound. All these are high-heat paste's, also great for on the (back only!!!) brakepads, plus sides where they slide.
And, any grease used on an offroad has to be waterproof grease, as normal grease simply washes away over time. But, by all means use normal grease for those points which you disassemble as regularly as RF does, and clean & renew.
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