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Old 02-18-2013, 08:43 AM   #16096
EduardoMas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatSailor View Post
Been using the hi-temp anti-seize with no problem, but looking at this thread I think waterproof grease is in order.
Antisieze is made just for this purpose. There is no water washing it off as there is no flow. I use MMC-77 since '05 w/o issues. It gets reapplied only once a year, but it never looks like it washes out.
The adjusters are moved back and forth full range at least 8x a year as wheels with different sprockets go on the bike.

My XRR has M4 Tapped holes (with a screw) on the swing arm that are opened periodically to let the water out. M6 seemed too large for the area that needs the drain. I plug the hole so muck does not go in freely. Sometimes half a cup of water comes out after a weekend in sunken roads and ponds.

Just wanted to share.

PS, McMaster Carr PN 10105K41 seems like something worth a try.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:49 AM   #16097
crypto666
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For what its worth, my right side adjuster has been seized for a long time and I never was able to remove it. So I pretend it doesn't exist, and no issues. However, the left side might be different to try and live without.

On a societal level, I would really like to not have a left side.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:07 AM   #16098
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
Word of warning though (not so much for chain adjuster but same idea)- manufacturer torque figures for bolts are 'dry' readings, so by lubricating on installation you are effectively risking over-tightening.
Good point, it'd matter if I used a torque wrench which I rarely do Cyl head bolts and cam caps are about all I pull it out for. Yeah I know, I'm lazy in that regard but I purposly use t handles when possible or else small wrenches. Rarely if ever do I see an issue with that method. For most of the hardware it doesn't really matter as long as it's not cranked down on (overly tight) and the wrench operator has a good feel for the tool being used. I've watched more than one race team assemble a top end and the cyl head bolts and cam caps were the only things I saw it being used on. If you're a person who's prone to snapping off a bolt, the TW is a great idea.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:11 AM   #16099
nick5446
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Anyone know anyone looking for an XRR? I listed mine for sale here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=861489

Seems like it's a buyer's market for these things, but it's all good. No rush to sell.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:17 AM   #16100
EduardoMas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
For what its worth, my right side adjuster has been seized for a long time and I never was able to remove it. So I pretend it doesn't exist, and no issues. However, the left side might be different to try and live without.

On a societal level, I would really like to not have a left side.
Google ways to remove the screw and out of the many links a few will be good. They will all require time and patience… blah, blah…

But say the worst happened and the screw snaps.
Grind it flush with a Dremel ®.
Drill and tap the SQUARE end of the axle with an M6… taking the care to drill square to the flats and at 90deg from the axle. Tap through from one side only. Get a long screw, or a treaded rod, screw on axle and use the jam-nut.
Use the square and of the axle on the “bad side”, and the nut on the good side.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:21 AM   #16101
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Good point, it'd matter if I used a torque wrench which I rarely do Cyl head bolts and cam caps are about all I pull it out for. Yeah I know, I'm lazy in that regard but I purposly use t handles when possible or else small wrenches. Rarely if ever do I see an issue with that method. For most of the hardware it doesn't really matter as long as it's not cranked down on (overly tight) and the wrench operator has a good feel for the tool being used. I've watched more than one race team assemble a top end and the cyl head bolts and cam caps were the only things I saw it being used on. If you're a person who's prone to snapping off a bolt, the TW is a great idea.
I kind of hand torque guy too, but what about your triples? I use a torque wrench on my triples and rear axle, as well as the obvious engine stuff. I worry about over torqueing the lower clamps on the forks because of the chance of deforming the tubes, which I worry I might have done the other day when I had the wrench set at 27lbs instead of 24.

Then of course once I realized this I compressed the forks and can feel a tight spot about a third of the way in the stroke. I hoping its just an oil level problem, but I am going to pull them tonight to figure it out.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #16102
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I kind of hand torque guy too, but what about your triples? I use a torque wrench on my triples and rear axle, as well as the obvious engine stuff. I worry about over torqueing the lower clamps on the forks because of the chance of deforming the tubes, which I worry I might have done the other day when I had the wrench set at 27lbs instead of 24.

Then of course once I realized this I compressed the forks and can feel a tight spot about a third of the way in the stroke. I hoping its just an oil level problem, but I am going to pull them tonight to figure it out.
Nope, not there ether. I've never seen a deformed fork tube from the triple clamps. It's my understanding that the torque on the triples is to keep from snapping off the alum ears which I've seen before. It was caused by over torquing the bolts and the tube was fine.

Those tubes are very stout and are pretty hard to deform, look at a MC that's hit the back of a car, yeah there going to bend but they don't usally fold under. I'd be surprised if the torque was your problem, even if it's was deformed which I doubt, there's nothing internal that runs up the inside of the tubes that's even close to touching the inner wall of the leg in that area. It's the spring that sits in that area and that has plenty of clearance.

RideFreak screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 09:33 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #16103
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EduardoMas View Post
Google ways to remove the screw and out of the many links a few will be good. They will all require time and patience… blah, blah…

But say the worst happened and the screw snaps.
Grind it flush with a Dremel ®.
Drill and tap the SQUARE end of the axle with an M6… taking the care to drill square to the flats and at 90deg from the axle. Tap through from one side only. Get a long screw, or a treaded rod, screw on axle and use the jam-nut.
Use the square and of the axle on the “bad side”, and the nut on the good side.
Nah, I just jammed a smashed up beer can in it and called it good.

Kidding, it doesn't cause me any issues so maybe when I retire I will fix it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:36 AM   #16104
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Nope, not there ether. I've never seen a deformed fork tube from the triple clamps. It's my understanding that the torque on the triples is to keep from snapping off the alum ears which I've seen before. It was caused by over torquing the bolts and the tube was fine.

Those tubes are very stout and are pretty hard to deform, look at a MC that's hit the back of a car, yeah there going to bend but they don't usally fold under. I'd be surprised if the torque was your problem.

Thats good to know, I was worried. However, I did hit a car at about 40mph on this same bike years ago. Xrr 1, saturn sedan 0, the bike won; totally ripped apart the front of the car and my bike could have been ridden away with a little bar starigtening. I rebuilt the forks since then and the tubes were all straight.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:00 PM   #16105
Lostsaffa
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Ooh you clever Dick you......... you're right!!!!!
And on this, just a few torque settings are to be applied, like head, swinger, and... umm, well, can't think of any, the rest I do all by hand - and I bet a lot of guys do this, those who work regularly on bikes or engines.
I'm the same for most, but I have met my fair share of heavy-handed techs in the Air Force as an engineer to know some people just don't have a feel for or concept of torque vs size of head etc.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:33 PM   #16106
crypto666
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that feeling? that feeling is dumbass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
which I worry I might have done the other day when I had the wrench set at 27lbs instead of 24.

Then of course once I realized this I compressed the forks and can feel a tight spot about a third of the way in the stroke. I hoping its just an oil level problem, but I am going to pull them tonight to figure it out.
Yeh, god damn ocd is kicking in. I checked out my forks. Loosened every fork alignment related bolt, and stroked the forks for a few minutes trying to figure out what that tight spot is I am feeling and hoping it goes away.

It did go away, right about the time I realized the tight spot I was feeling was the rear shock topping out.

Yes, I am a class 5 wizard.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:35 PM   #16107
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Most people just don't admit that stuff.... =)
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:12 AM   #16108
BuRPsa
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Yah, full marks for Crypto for that, but he didn't tell you that he lovingly refers to his pig as "KLR"....

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Nah, I just jammed a smashed up beer can in it and called it good.


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Old 02-19-2013, 10:05 AM   #16109
crypto666
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Most people just don't admit that stuff.... =)
If my stupidity can help just one person, its proabably a waste of time.

I was on my way to a MRAN race as a spectator Saturday Morning, and I went down pretty hard in a rut and 20 degree F weather. I jacked up my shoulder and got kind of shockey and about passed out from the pain, but was able to limp home with a crooked front end and a broken foot peg.

Instead of going to the ER, I decided to just take care of my bike's medical problems. I think I was still a little dazed out to think clearly.

After I heard that 5 riders had to be flown off the race, I didn't feel too bad. Injuries are most common at the start of the season for all riders.

BTW Burpsa, are still hanging on to that toe nail? I will gladely trade you a screwed up shoulder for a pedicure problem.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:21 AM   #16110
slickwill
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On all four of my bikes I use a torque wrench for everything. In/lbs for smaller fasteners, and ft/lbs for larger.

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