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Old 02-28-2013, 02:41 PM   #16216
nigelcorn
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
It'll run even cooler and carbon up worse without the thermostat in there. Search for the NAPA part number, it's cheap to put a new stat in it and it runs better with it.
OK, I'll do that. Thanks for the NAPA tip.

Edit: Wow, that NAPA thermostat is cheap! I love when things work out like that.

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Old 02-28-2013, 02:46 PM   #16217
Knobbiethrower
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New to the club ..now to reading this thread fully and adding a DS kit..


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Old 03-01-2013, 07:18 AM   #16218
BuRPsa
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NigelC,

a good habit is to smear some copperpaste/anti seize compound on a sparkplug's thread. First it'll never seize, second it conducts heat well, and thirdly it will aid in sealing-off the thread-gap from the combustion chamber.
But you, rebuilding this engine, should use it at many places, as stuck bolts are a pain when dismantling an engine.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:30 AM   #16219
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Yeah, I'll be sure to use some. I'm hoping to not have to rebuild the engine. My plan for now is to adjust the valves, rejet, change the oil and coolant, put in a new sparkplug, put in a new thermostat, and see how it all runs from there. Oh, and I obviously cleaned the air filter. It ran really well before, it was just dying at idle.

We'll see, I may have to rebuild it, but hopefully not.

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Old 03-01-2013, 08:29 AM   #16220
cognugget
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New bar setup
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:08 AM   #16221
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
New bar setup
Did you have any problems with the clutch and decompressor cables ? they are too short on my bike i have rerouted them but still not 100 % happy , are yours longer ? No problems with the throttle cables as i have the pro motion extra long set .
Btw , nice job you have done there .
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:51 AM   #16222
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I was wondering if any of you guys have had issues with your throttle cables getting pinched on your Scotts steering stabilizer? I use the oil filler mount style. I may have to play around with routing, but the cables are kinda short for too much rerouting.

I also run a TM40 carb, and use the cables that come with that carb setup, i think they are already +2 or something.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #16223
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
I was wondering if any of you guys have had issues with your throttle cables getting pinched on your Scotts steering stabilizer? I use the oil filler mount style. I may have to play around with routing, but the cables are kinda short for too much rerouting.

I also run a TM40 carb, and use the cables that come with that carb setup, i think they are already +2 or something.
I had trouble with mine when I bought it last year, the throttle cables came up thru a rubber divider thingy that attaches to the Scotts mount and contacts the tank - there's an opening in between for the cables. But I had a lot of trouble with the throttle being "snatchy" from idle to the first 10% of throttle movement, made it hard to roll on the power from idle. I moved the cables to the left (out of the opening) and covered them with clear vinyl tubing to protect them from the Scott's. That helped a lot, then I bought a G2 throttle tube and it is much smoother. There is still a pull, but I can't help but think part of that is vacuum on the venturi / slide.

I have an aftermarket tank, although I don't know the brand. I'll do a pic this weekend.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:31 AM   #16224
ZXRaziel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
I was wondering if any of you guys have had issues with your throttle cables getting pinched on your Scotts steering stabilizer? I use the oil filler mount style. I may have to play around with routing, but the cables are kinda short for too much rerouting.

I also run a TM40 carb, and use the cables that come with that carb setup, i think they are already +2 or something.
I can't help you as i dont use stabilizer , but i am sure someone else will .
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:42 AM   #16225
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
I had trouble with mine when I bought it last year, the throttle cables came up thru a rubber divider thingy that attaches to the Scotts mount and contacts the tank - there's an opening in between for the cables. But I had a lot of trouble with the throttle being "snatchy" from idle to the first 10% of throttle movement, made it hard to roll on the power from idle. I moved the cables to the left (out of the opening) and covered them with clear vinyl tubing to protect them from the Scott's. That helped a lot, then I bought a G2 throttle tube and it is much smoother. There is still a pull, but I can't help but think part of that is vacuum on the venturi / slide.

I have an aftermarket tank, although I don't know the brand. I'll do a pic this weekend.
thanks,

I'll poke around with it this weekend and see what i can come up with.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:27 PM   #16226
Sean-0
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i think scotts sell them ... plastic thing that holds cables away from the arm and closer to the tank to stop the binding .... if you find 1 can you let me know i want 1 also
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:41 PM   #16227
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Scotts and Cleanspeed engineering sell cable routing goodies

http://cleanspeedeng.com/cable_guide.htm

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Old 03-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #16228
bill pierce
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I need to buy a shop manual and was wondering if the factory Honda manual is better than the Clymer.

Anyone with both?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #16229
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I need to buy a shop manual and was wondering if the factory Honda manual is better than the Clymer.

Anyone with both?
Can't say I've seen the Clymer for the BRP, but all of my previous uses of Clymer pale in comparison to factory manuals. And Honda manuals have been some of the best I've ever seen from any factory.

Get a factory manual, you won't be sorry. Or find a download for the .pdf.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:26 PM   #16230
nigelcorn
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Yeah, I just recently downloaded the pdf. If you can't find it, send me a pm with your email, and I'll get it to you.

So I got the replacement thermostat from NAPA and went to pull the old one out to see if it was stuck open. Turns out the previous owner must have read the same thing I did about not having to run it with the thermostat, because there wasn't anything there.

Hopefully that's all that's wrong with it, I'll find out tomorrow when I warm it up to change the oil and then really take it out and see how it's doing.
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