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Old 03-10-2013, 05:40 PM   #16411
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Out in the NM Dez somewhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Gnar View Post
Well after a long sabbatical to SE Asia Im back, just before I left last June I blew up the lower rod bearing and crankcase at 70mph on the freeway, thank god I was quick on the clutch cause she locked up tighter than a nuns asshole. .. Now its rebuild time.



Got a new (used in great shape) case and have all the bearings pulled out, steam cleaned and sparkling, just sent out the crank for a press and balance with new rod, re nikasil the cylinder, hard face weld the rockers, and a valve job replacing everything. Also throwing in a hot cams stage 1 and cutting out the rear side panel so she'll breathe better



One question Ive got after cleaning and inspecting the oil pump today is should I be worried about the pump if both sides are at their service limits? I plan on replacing the parts after the build up but am I going to see any significant loss in pressure for cam break in, some short runs, etc, the service limit is .008 and its a real snug fit?

I'd replace the pump, that spec your measuring directly relates to supply oil volume and subsequently the motor's oil pressure, any wear like you see on the sides of the op rotor will diminish it's output. It should look polished on the surface. You're spending allot of $$, if it was me I wouldn't put a marginal pump back in a fresh motor.
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
CL Adventure Ride 2013 /CL Revisited 2014 / 700 Miles of Scenic Utah Backcountry / MY VIDEOS / RIDEFREAK TV
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:52 PM   #16412
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I'd replace the pump, that spec your measuring directly relates to supply oil volume and subsequently the motor's oil pressure, any wear like you see on the sides of the op rotor will diminish it's output. It should look polished on the surface. You're spending allot of $$, if it was me I wouldn't put a marginal pump back in a fresh motor.
Yeah, as somebody that had to buy all the oil pump bits, its like 50 dollars to replace every bit on the parts fiche.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #16413
mitchn06
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Location: SoDak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Figure $150 for the kit, roughly another $90 for the labor rebuilding the crank plus shipping, about $300 total plus brgs, seals and gaskets, I'd est about $450 total for going into it and fixing the crank if you split the cases yourself.
Thanks Chris, i was afraid the crank issue would probably set me back another $300+ oh well i guess. now i gotta find something to sell to scrape up some cash!!
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:21 PM   #16414
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
Got beat up today. Rode ~18 miles to the trails, met up with a couple woods racer buddies. We rode 30 grueling miles of very technical singletrack, then rode the ~18 miles home. I have over 400 miles on the bike since I bought it a month ago. I saw a big group of dual sport riders in the parking lot, they thought I was nuts riding with the ktm 300 and crf in the tight singletrack
They did? Screw that noise! The BRP is awesome on the singletrack if you're in shape and got some muscle. It tractors up over anything and never stalls in the lowest RPMs. And shifting? Optional.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:26 PM   #16415
cognugget
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Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
They did? Screw that noise! The BRP is awesome on the singletrack if you're in shape and got some muscle. It tractors up over anything and never stalls in the lowest RPMs. And shifting? Optional.
It is not ideal, but I'm also not a huge guy. The thing is amazing at tractoring! They were just jealous that their wideass bmw1200's couldn't fit down the entrance to the trails hahaha.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #16416
bamfslap
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
It is not ideal, but I'm also not a huge guy. The thing is amazing at tractoring! They were just jealous that their wideass bmw1200's couldn't fit down the entrance to the trails hahaha.
I'm not huge either, they say the easiest way to make your bike lighter is to lose weight so maybe that's why it doesn't feel that heavy to me hehe.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:46 PM   #16417
cognugget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
I'm not huge either, they say the easiest way to make your bike lighter is to lose weight so maybe that's why it doesn't feel that heavy to me hehe.
yeah, not going to happen... I'm 165lbs.... :) my key is to not load the bike down with crap you don't really need.
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:15 PM   #16418
bamfslap
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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
yeah, not going to happen... I'm 165lbs.... :) my key is to not load the bike down with crap you don't really need.
That's what I mean, the lighter you are the lighter your bike feels.

I weigh about that too.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:01 AM   #16419
Jayrod1318
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Location: Here and there and stuff.
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
I made the mistake (?) of riding my buddies XR650R the other night. Very light and nimble in comparison to my KLR..

The want is great. The funds... Not so much...
Sell that over weight underpowered barco lounger and use the funds for a BRP! start looking around!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:21 AM   #16420
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
I am finally going to put on the new right crankcase cover tomorrow. Does anybody know what is used to seal the plugs that go into it? I know two of them are red loctite, (off the old warped one) but the others are a sealant/thread locker that is dark grey. Should I just use red loctite on them all?

I would probably use Three Bond case sealent.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:14 PM   #16421
nigelcorn
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Location: Henderson, NV
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Question for you all: I recently picked up a 2005. It ran fine, but I noticed that on extended rides (like more than 30 minutes) it has trouble idling. I tried adjusting the idle speed to get it up to 1400, and that works, but after about 10 minutes or so if I try and let it idle again it will drop down the rpm's and die. I did this twice until I got the idle up high enough that the rpm's were hanging and would take a while to come back down after letting off the gas.

It always starts right back up, and is easy to start from cold.

I have recently changed the oil, coolant, added a thermostat, adjusted the valves, and jetted according the 650r website according to my elevation and settings.

I was hoping that after all my maintenance it wouldn't be a problem any more, but I went out for my first ride after all that work and it is the same thing. It runs really well when I'm not idling, it just has trouble idling. If I turn the choke on, it revs pretty high but doesn't die. So far this isn't a huge problem because worst case scenario it dies and I just start it again. However, I have to get to the dirt and having it die at a stop-light just doesn't work for me.

Any suggestions where I should look first?
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:24 PM   #16422
cognugget
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You guys ever have your float level come out of adjustment after a crash?

If the bike goes any more sideways than the stand, it will start overflowing fuel. Its not the needle or needle jet.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:03 PM   #16423
zoro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelcorn View Post
Question for you all: I recently picked up a 2005. It ran fine, but I noticed that on extended rides (like more than 30 minutes) it has trouble idling. I tried adjusting the idle speed to get it up to 1400, and that works, but after about 10 minutes or so if I try and let it idle again it will drop down the rpm's and die. I did this twice until I got the idle up high enough that the rpm's were hanging and would take a while to come back down after letting off the gas.

It always starts right back up, and is easy to start from cold.

I have recently changed the oil, coolant, added a thermostat, adjusted the valves, and jetted according the 650r website according to my elevation and settings.

I was hoping that after all my maintenance it wouldn't be a problem any more, but I went out for my first ride after all that work and it is the same thing. It runs really well when I'm not idling, it just has trouble idling. If I turn the choke on, it revs pretty high but doesn't die. So far this isn't a huge problem because worst case scenario it dies and I just start it again. However, I have to get to the dirt and having it die at a stop-light just doesn't work for me.

Any suggestions where I should look first?
What you describe is very much like mine.
If I stop at a set of lights the thing will idle really high and once I clutch out a bit to drag the engine back to normal revs its fine but if I blip the throttle it will hang again. I have checked the throttle cables for correct routing etc and it seems to return quite well when the bike is not running. Even when it is running and you forcefully return the throttle it still hangs high unless you load the engine with some clutch. Very erratic idle is best I could describe it, I'm going to try and see if its the idle mixture screw o'ring seal has gone? Might test it by placing a wad of grease over the mixture screw to get a seal and see if that fixes it, doubt it will though, very weird.
But like you mentioned its fine when riding just the idling issue, never had a bike do what this is doing?
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:34 PM   #16424
crypto666
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Joined: May 2011
Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
what do you guys think of this wrist pin and rod small end?


wrist pin will be replaced anyhow with new wiseco stuff, but how bout the rod? doable??
i really would like to hear good things if at all possible. ha


Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
They did? Screw that noise! The BRP is awesome on the singletrack if you're in shape and got some muscle. It tractors up over anything and never stalls in the lowest RPMs. And shifting? Optional.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
It is not ideal, but I'm also not a huge guy. The thing is amazing at tractoring! They were just jealous that their wideass bmw1200's couldn't fit down the entrance to the trails hahaha.
It is not a tractor.

Do not pull your buddy's ktm with your xrr.

Unless you want to replace your wrist pin often.

It is not a tractor, it is a motorcycle, and its built to go rather fast as such.

The oil jet will not spray the small end when it needs it the most.

Kind of like your wife and/or girlfriend.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:36 PM   #16425
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
You guys ever have your float level come out of adjustment after a crash?

If the bike goes any more sideways than the stand, it will start overflowing fuel. Its not the needle or needle jet.
Set it lower, that is so that it shuts of with less fuel in the bowl. Mine would run on its side with the stock unit.

Get a filter.
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