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Old 03-20-2013, 09:45 AM   #16531
ride4fun562
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Nice video , also glad to see a land owner that doesent have a stick up their ass




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Originally Posted by cognugget View Post
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:01 AM   #16532
medisyn
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Originally Posted by achile View Post
I opened up link from x-ring chain when I shortened it. I was running a DIY chain oiler. The interior had nice, clean oil. The oil will also keep the chain clean. It's not messy if you have it properly tuned.
The o-rings and x-rings have to be lubed and cleaned, but no more. This is a picture made after running an oiler on the street for 3000 km whitout maintanance. It's on a Yamaha XTZ 750. For offroad use, it's a bit tricky to install the oiler in a safe position



You got instructions you followed for your DIY setup? I know a chain oiler is pretty simple to bodge together, but I am curious. I wanna run a oiler on my non XR-R.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:40 PM   #16533
poppy
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Nice, did you use an impact, or hold the flywheel with something? I've read that you can demagnetize the flywheel somehow.
Yeah, as Will said, impact works a treat. No issues with magnatism
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:57 PM   #16534
mitchn06
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Rebuild parts list

Here is a link to my rebuild OEM parts list i have created so far. does this look good? did i miss anything vital? i'm hoping some of the bearings are fine so i can save some $$. thinking about skipping the tensioner also, since it works fine, along with some other things.

LINK
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Old 03-20-2013, 02:51 PM   #16535
woodsxr
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Here is a link to my rebuild OEM parts list i have created so far. does this look good? did i miss anything vital? i'm hoping some of the bearings are fine so i can save some $$. thinking about skipping the tensioner also, since it works fine, along with some other things.

LINK
Couldn't access list
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #16536
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I do.

I'm not saying they are great chains. I likely won't use one again (primary drive), but after having an RK chain snap on me as well (the links broke, not the pins!) I don't think I'll use RK either. Their price range is great, but I'd have a tough time trusting it.

DID's are just way too expensive.
I had a primary drive o-ring on an XR400, got two weekend rides on it, probably 400 miles. It's supposed to be their "good" chain. The link plates started splitting where the pins are inserted on at least 1/2 of the links. It could have snapped anytime, surprised it didn't. I won't trust them anymore, too much risk of getting stranded or jacking up the bike.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #16537
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodsxr View Post
Couldn't access list
try now
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #16538
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Here is a link to my rebuild OEM parts list i have created so far. does this look good? did i miss anything vital? i'm hoping some of the bearings are fine so i can save some $$. thinking about skipping the tensioner also, since it works fine, along with some other things.

LINK
Thats actually a really good resource for the part numbers too.

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #16539
mitchn06
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Did a small update to the list, the highlighted red is obviously all of the parts on the list.

the highlighted blue is slimmed down list:
i know i need to replace camshaft bearings( should have done it when i replaced camshaft three years ago)
crankshaft because the connecting rod is being replaced
i kept all the main oil seals, skipped out on a few o-rings
should be fine with the gasket selection
the cam chain tensioner functions as it should
still might do the tensioner arm, as i havn't had it out to look at it yet

all the other parts i know are needed so i kept them on the list.

Updated List
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:58 PM   #16540
dohcfox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I had a primary drive o-ring on an XR400, got two weekend rides on it, probably 400 miles. It's supposed to be their "good" chain. The link plates started splitting where the pins are inserted on at least 1/2 of the links. It could have snapped anytime, surprised it didn't. I won't trust them anymore, too much risk of getting stranded or jacking up the bike.
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:03 AM   #16541
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...
I've used their sprockets, they're OK, nothing special but they'll get you down the trail.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:24 AM   #16542
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...

When I bought a new drive this season, I replaced a PD counter sprocket with a Renthal. The Rental fits a lot tighter on the shaft, the PD had more slop than I care for. Others have pointed this out over a year ago on this thread.

I would point out that my PD chain snapped a roller, and Ridefreak is seeing side plates split. Now if we could just get both of those failures in the same batch, that would be one badass chain; God damn thing would explode as soon as you hit the throttle. Imagine the look on peoples faces? "I don't know, its just got a lot of powa!"
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:55 AM   #16543
ADVSearcher
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Question

Some quick clearification wanted regarding chain slack ...

This is what the manual says:




Does this mean ?:

Alternative 1 (tight)




Or alternative 2: (a bit less tight)



Can add that I have now done it as alternative 1 but the chain feels way to tight on side stand (& measured of course the slack with free hanging wheel)


Or ... is it according to this ?

Alternative 3: (not even close to tight )


ADVSearcher screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 10:20 AM
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #16544
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVSearcher View Post
Some quick clearification wanted regarding chain slack ...

This is what the manual says:




Does this mean ?:

Alternative 1 (tight)




Or alternative 2: (a bit less tight)



Can add that I have now done it as alternative 1 but the chain feels way to tight on side stand (& measured of course the slack with free hanging wheel)


Or ... is it according to this ?

Alternative 3: (not even close to tight )
Well, it probably doesn't matter that much. More importantly is that the swing arm is in a position that places the rear sprock furthest from the counter sprock for checking tension. This is usually done when the bike is NOT on a stand as shown in the pics.

I shoot for an inch, whether its measured from center to center of top to top. It isn't super critical as long as it is not too tight.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #16545
galland1
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I have asked this question about many different bikes. Never received a good answer. Everyone does it differently.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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