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Old 03-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #16546
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Here is a link to my rebuild OEM parts list i have created so far. does this look good? did i miss anything vital? i'm hoping some of the bearings are fine so i can save some $$. thinking about skipping the tensioner also, since it works fine, along with some other things.

LINK
Thats actually a really good resource for the part numbers too.

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:31 PM   #16547
mitchn06
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Did a small update to the list, the highlighted red is obviously all of the parts on the list.

the highlighted blue is slimmed down list:
i know i need to replace camshaft bearings( should have done it when i replaced camshaft three years ago)
crankshaft because the connecting rod is being replaced
i kept all the main oil seals, skipped out on a few o-rings
should be fine with the gasket selection
the cam chain tensioner functions as it should
still might do the tensioner arm, as i havn't had it out to look at it yet

all the other parts i know are needed so i kept them on the list.

Updated List
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:58 PM   #16548
dohcfox
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I had a primary drive o-ring on an XR400, got two weekend rides on it, probably 400 miles. It's supposed to be their "good" chain. The link plates started splitting where the pins are inserted on at least 1/2 of the links. It could have snapped anytime, surprised it didn't. I won't trust them anymore, too much risk of getting stranded or jacking up the bike.
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:03 AM   #16549
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...
I've used their sprockets, they're OK, nothing special but they'll get you down the trail.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:24 AM   #16550
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
There has been a lot of talk of Primary Drive chains being junk lately. Onthe other hand, if I remember correctly, Shibbly has gotten a lot of use out of their steel sprockets. Can anyone chime in on this? I ask this question because I know that the budget minded might be looking at their sprockets. I'll personally be picking up an Ironman sprocket, being that they are local and all that...

When I bought a new drive this season, I replaced a PD counter sprocket with a Renthal. The Rental fits a lot tighter on the shaft, the PD had more slop than I care for. Others have pointed this out over a year ago on this thread.

I would point out that my PD chain snapped a roller, and Ridefreak is seeing side plates split. Now if we could just get both of those failures in the same batch, that would be one badass chain; God damn thing would explode as soon as you hit the throttle. Imagine the look on peoples faces? "I don't know, its just got a lot of powa!"
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:55 AM   #16551
ADVSearcher
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Question

Some quick clearification wanted regarding chain slack ...

This is what the manual says:




Does this mean ?:

Alternative 1 (tight)




Or alternative 2: (a bit less tight)



Can add that I have now done it as alternative 1 but the chain feels way to tight on side stand (& measured of course the slack with free hanging wheel)


Or ... is it according to this ?

Alternative 3: (not even close to tight )


ADVSearcher screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 10:20 AM
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #16552
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVSearcher View Post
Some quick clearification wanted regarding chain slack ...

This is what the manual says:




Does this mean ?:

Alternative 1 (tight)




Or alternative 2: (a bit less tight)



Can add that I have now done it as alternative 1 but the chain feels way to tight on side stand (& measured of course the slack with free hanging wheel)


Or ... is it according to this ?

Alternative 3: (not even close to tight )
Well, it probably doesn't matter that much. More importantly is that the swing arm is in a position that places the rear sprock furthest from the counter sprock for checking tension. This is usually done when the bike is NOT on a stand as shown in the pics.

I shoot for an inch, whether its measured from center to center of top to top. It isn't super critical as long as it is not too tight.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #16553
galland1
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I have asked this question about many different bikes. Never received a good answer. Everyone does it differently.

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Old 03-21-2013, 10:57 AM   #16554
dirtyoffroad
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while not the easiest,but the most accurate way is to cycle the suspension without the shock hooked up.The chain will usually be tightest up around full compression.Set adjusters from that point,connect shock,make note of chain play on stand now and that is where you should always set it.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:20 AM   #16555
ADVSearcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVSearcher View Post
Some quick clearification wanted regarding chain slack ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Well, it probably doesn't matter that much ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by galland1 View Post
I have asked this question about many different bikes. Never received a good answer ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyoffroad View Post
while not the easiest ...

OK ?!? So this is really rocket science

Well, did measure the slack with the bike lifted up, as stated in the manual. Will go for alternative 2, that's the way it's described for my Beamer F800GS (they were crystal clear in that manual ) Thinking it's better with a bit to slack that to tight ... don't want to blow up the chain or destroy the motor sprocket bearing.

Thank's for answering guys !
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:58 AM   #16556
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i find it kinda comical that this conversation comes up, but at the same time, educational. One of the most basic procedures that nobody knows. haha. me either i guess, although my riding partners can hear my chain slapping better than they can hear their own bikes. maybe i need to rethink this.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:01 PM   #16557
ADVSearcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
i find it kinda comical ...
Yepp agrees with you, but perhaps it's concidered that much basic that nobody dares to ask, which --> nobody knows
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #16558
slickwill
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As mentioned you want to make sure that there is at least some slack when things are compressed. That can mean having your fattest friend sit on it, ratcheting it down, unlinking the shock, etc. Once you verify that you have at least some slack at that point then figure out how much slack you have when on the stand to give that same value compressed. Then you'll never have to go through the compressed check again. I think that a lot of chain issues are caused from over tightening. The first time you hit hard with a tight chain you really stretch it a bunch.

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Old 03-21-2013, 02:09 PM   #16559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
When I bought a new drive this season, I replaced a PD counter sprocket with a Renthal. The Rental fits a lot tighter on the shaft, the PD had more slop than I care for. Others have pointed this out over a year ago on this thread.

I would point out that my PD chain snapped a roller, and Ridefreak is seeing side plates split. Now if we could just get both of those failures in the same batch, that would be one badass chain; God damn thing would explode as soon as you hit the throttle. Imagine the look on peoples faces? "I don't know, its just got a lot of powa!"

Good to know. It's been awhile since I've used PD chains. I might try RK again but hold have my reserves.. The price point is right when they are around 80$ for their X-ring chain.

PD rear sprockets are great. Front ones fit loose on shaft. I wouldn't go that route again.

I might splurge for Ironman next time but I think our conditions will still make quick work of them. Hurts when the drives are 150$ instead of 30-40$. They'd have to last 4 times as long to make them worth it but I'd doubt a sprocket can survive our gritty dirty that long.

I picked up another pumpkin last night... *blush*. Bought my buddies 2011-250XC.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #16560
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
i find it kinda comical that this conversation comes up, but at the same time, educational. One of the most basic procedures that nobody knows. haha. me either i guess, although my riding partners can hear my chain slapping better than they can hear their own bikes. maybe i need to rethink this.

You always hear your friends louder then your own. Ride beside a wall or crash barrier and you'll see that you then hear YOURS.

I measure top to top.

I have never confirmed, but most say tightest spot is when chain, swingarm axle, and wheel axle are aligned. That makes sense to my gr 9 geometry... and a few years of engineering. Sliders could come into play though.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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