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Old 03-21-2013, 03:35 PM   #16561
Cpt. Ron
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Chain slack measurement

For consistency sake, don't change your reference point when taking the measurement. If you refer to the top of the chain, measure to the top of the chain both times. Same for the bottom. Or even the middle of a pin. I don't think the engineers intended for you measuring to different points between slack-up and slack-down.

I would know, I'm an engineer.

And yes, it is supposed to be measured at the tightest point. That's when the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle all in a straight line (about half of the swingarm travel). A partner to compress the bike works. Or a tie down strap under the swingarm and over the seat works too. If you don't change your preload or spring rate, you can do it the "proper way" first to get it correct. Then put the bike on the sidestand on a flat level surface and measure what you have. You can also just lean it against something, really doesn't matter. Just pick an easy position to use to check it in the future. It should be tighter than the full slack measurement, but you don't care. You just need to know the "new" number. Go back to this with every check/adjustment until you change preload or spring rate (or if the bike has luggage on it). I hope this makes sense.

If you're really anal about the proper slack, mark a gauge line with a marker on your swingarm. With the bike in the position you choose and the slack as it's supposed to be, measure the maximum slack away from the middle of the swingarm. This is the length of the slack as measured from the bottom of the swingarm to the chain (top, bottom, middle of pin...whatever you choose) when the chain is pulled down. Draw a line on the swingarm that is the same length as the measurement. This way you don't need to remember the number, it's already measured out for you. Just find a stick on the ground to measure your slack and compare it to your gauge length that you drew on your swingarm. Works great at the end of a tough day when you're exhausted and dehydrated and not thinking quite straight.
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Cpt. Ron screwed with this post 03-22-2013 at 09:07 AM Reason: tightest--loosest, whatever...
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:28 PM   #16562
Ironwood
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Chain Slack

I didn't see it mentioned in this latest discussion so here goes. Rotate the assembly and you will see some variation in the amount of slack from sprockets not being perfectly round. Find the tightest position to measure. It may sound silly but some sprockets can be quite a ways out.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:52 PM   #16563
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
I didn't see it mentioned in this latest discussion so here goes. Rotate the assembly and you will see some variation in the amount of slack from sprockets not being perfectly round. Find the tightest position to measure. It may sound silly but some sprockets can be quite a ways out.
That's what I noticed about Primary Drive rears, the center indexing left a little to be desired, about 1/2" variation in tension. It still works ok but I wasn't impressed, I guess that's what you get for $20.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:36 PM   #16564
JTucker
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I had a primary drive chain on my pig, I always ran it on the loose side of spec. It broke with only a few hundred miles on it. I won't put another cheap chain on that bike, although I gave it to a friend and it's been on his 250 for a while.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #16565
StevefrmGV
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BRP FS Link to Flea Mkt

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872668
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:32 AM   #16566
crypto666
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I know, its painful.

I don't know if the Iron man stuff offer much advantage other than a few ounces of unsprung weight.

I have had good luck finding the $220+ DID chains for $120 pretty regularly. I pulled last years off, and put on this years chain and sprockets and my adjuster went right back to where they were; no stretch after a year of riding. I guess I replaced another perfectly good chain. I wish they would fit the CRF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Good to know. It's been awhile since I've used PD chains. I might try RK again but hold have my reserves.. The price point is right when they are around 80$ for their X-ring chain.

PD rear sprockets are great. Front ones fit loose on shaft. I wouldn't go that route again.

I might splurge for Ironman next time but I think our conditions will still make quick work of them. Hurts when the drives are 150$ instead of 30-40$. They'd have to last 4 times as long to make them worth it but I'd doubt a sprocket can survive our gritty dirty that long.

I picked up another pumpkin last night... *blush*. Bought my buddies 2011-250XC.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:36 AM   #16567
crypto666
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Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
.

I would know, I'm an engineer.

And yes, it is supposed to be measured at the loosest point..

You mean tightest right?

I like to leave some extra slack in it so when my sleeping bag, sleeping pad, rain jacket, and whatever else get sucked into the rear wheel it doesn't slow me down too much.

Ask Burpsa.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:06 AM   #16568
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
You mean tightest right?

I like to leave some extra slack in it so when my sleeping bag, sleeping pad, rain jacket, and whatever else get sucked into the rear wheel it doesn't slow me down too much.

Ask Burpsa.
Damn it, man!

You are right. Tightest....
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:13 PM   #16569
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d Hey all. Been lurking around here for a while and I'm finally going to look at an xrr tomorrow. It's an 06, street titled, bigger stator, tank and some other goodies. Best of all, the guy is asking under 3k. It has seen mostly street miles and my question is: is it bad that he only changed the oil ever 1000 miles? I've had a few bikes but wanted to see what you all thought about that.non synthetic gn4 with Honda filters.
Thanks!
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:23 PM   #16570
Sean-0
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IMO oil changed at a 1000 mile .. is throwing good oil away ...street miles its done it easy i would say ......sounds like a good bike


i drop oil every 2,500 to 3,000 kms .. or if i been hard on it ...every 2,000 kms
filter every second change
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:31 PM   #16571
Ridin Dirty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrdrms View Post
d Hey all. Been lurking around here for a while and I'm finally going to look at an xrr tomorrow. It's an 06, street titled, bigger stator, tank and some other goodies. Best of all, the guy is asking under 3k. It has seen mostly street miles and my question is: is it bad that he only changed the oil ever 1000 miles? I've had a few bikes but wanted to see what you all thought about that.non synthetic gn4 with Honda filters.
Thanks!

Hey, I know I underpriced it. It's a great bike and deserves a good home. Buy it before I give these FF's a shot at it!
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:58 PM   #16572
DualSpaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrdrms View Post
d Hey all. Been lurking around here for a while and I'm finally going to look at an xrr tomorrow. It's an 06, street titled, bigger stator, tank and some other goodies. Best of all, the guy is asking under 3k. It has seen mostly street miles and my question is: is it bad that he only changed the oil ever 1000 miles? I've had a few bikes but wanted to see what you all thought about that.non synthetic gn4 with Honda filters.
Thanks!
I've always used non-syn GN4 in my XR400, 20w50 in the summer, 10w40 in winter. 14 years with no problems. I plan on doing the same with the 650R.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:10 AM   #16573
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSpaz View Post
I've always used non-syn GN4 in my XR400, 20w50 in the summer, 10w40 in winter. 14 years with no problems. I plan on doing the same with the 650R.
these weights in Rotella for this guy also.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:52 PM   #16574
mtrdrms
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Originally Posted by Ridin Dirty View Post
Hey, I know I underpriced it. It's a great bike and deserves a good home. Buy it before I give these FF's a shot at it!
Lol, great bike indeed! Wanted to post in the xrr thread but didn't have anything to ask about because the bike is perfect!! Thanks again and I hope we get to ride soon.

Andy
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:16 PM   #16575
StevefrmGV
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Sold It

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