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Old 04-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #16696
Jayrod1318
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Your bike only makes AC current. Unless the previous owner installed a regulator/ rectifier and battery setup. ?

The stock regulator on the right side under the seat is just to prevent AC voltage spikes.

If you want you can run every bit of your lights of the bikes AC current and ditch the battery idea.

In fact you can power your street wiring from the headlight wire (blue wire &black wire).

There is an xr650r electricity thread with lots of info.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:53 PM   #16697
peterthefarmer
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there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:08 PM   #16698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
You are correct.

If there is a battery wired in place, then its been converted.

I believe the blue wire up on the front harness is 12v switch pos on a BD harness. (totally out of my memory i dont have the diagram in front of me)

Those battery packs do go bad, they are just ni-cad batteries and dont have the best lifespan.

You should be able to measure 12v+ out of the red wire on the rectifier as well, but you should keep it all connected, so maybe tap in elsewhere?
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:09 PM   #16699
Jayrod1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
Ac on a bike is only good for lights.

If he had a battery on it then it is setup for DC. You should be good.

Your bike might even have a Re-wound higher output stator. While not entirely necessary I believe that is the preferred setup in order to have enough juice to operate a bigger headlight (55w) and charge the battery.

I know enough to get me in trouble so I think you should check this thread out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421789
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #16700
Lostsaffa
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Has anyone here had experience with pressing out the stem from the bottom triple clamp?

There is a small spigot that has been pressed into the back of the stem, I guess to stop it spinning - but I have no idea how to get it out other than drilling as a last resort...

Any help much appreciated!
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:10 AM   #16701
TJE
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Super quick question before I head to the basement:

Can I open the clutch cover without spilling oil? If no, would it matter if the engine is hot or cold?

Thanks, much appreciated!
Thomas
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:36 AM   #16702
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Lay the bike on its side if you don't want to drain the oil.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:52 AM   #16703
babuja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterthefarmer View Post
there was a small "rc" type battery that would not take a charge, so unsure whether or no he had a proper rectifier hooked up. I was going to check the voltage of the blue wire with my multi meter, but I forgot it at work( I assumed it would be DC power). If I ran Ac only without a battery, I wouldn't be able to run any other accessories would I? Forgive my ignorance, I'm a knuckle dragging millwright not an electrician.
In my UE model I already have the DC REG/RECT, but you could install one, no big deal.



After that you can supply the gadgets you need to



http://www.ebay.de/itm/Regler-Gleich...item3cc88b1580

NOTE: Don´t use as a reference those fuse Ampere values (too high).
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:42 AM   #16704
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How I feel when I see other wide load dual sports, a repost, but funny every time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ztsP...endscreen&NR=1
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:51 AM   #16705
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Got an oil analysis done. bike has 3,000 miles on it. oil is shell rotella 15w-40.

Oil has 950 miles on it.

Bike has been well taken care of its whole life.

Not quite sure about the wear metals in this sample.
That is quite interesting. i also wonder about the high levels of metal in you sample.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:06 AM   #16706
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
That is quite interesting. i also wonder about the high levels of metal in you sample.

Looks like somebody has been slipping the clutch to me. Try being super smooth on starts and time the shifts to perfection, snick it into neutral at long red lights and see how the next sample looks.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:17 PM   #16707
Jayrod1318
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I'm thinking it is clutch contamination too. The bike runs and sounds fine.

I'm going to make sure I have enough lever free play and make sure I use neutral at lights.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:16 AM   #16708
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Got an oil analysis done. bike has 3,000 miles on it. oil is shell rotella 15w-40.

Oil has 950 miles on it.

Bike has been well taken care of its whole life.

Not quite sure about the wear metals in this sample.


If you're worried about the Ali then open up the oilpump & inspect, and do keep in mind this bike's oil-'tank' is an aluminium frame.
If you're worried about the steel then keep 1 thing in mind - this is a bike, not a car!
No car has a gearbox in it's crankcase like bikes have, hence is lubricated by the engine oil rather than a gear-oil.
On top of all this there's indeed a wet clutch also, so in all I'd not worry too much
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:23 AM   #16709
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
I'm thinking it is clutch contamination too. The bike runs and sounds fine.

I'm going to make sure I have enough lever free play and make sure I use neutral at lights.

I was trying to say, change your clutch operation as a test, do another sample, see if the numbers improve, if not you need to dig in and see what's up. I'd be willing to bet that it's all from the clutch, including the aluminum...basket fingers wear really fast, especially if you clutch every shift like I do.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:06 AM   #16710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I was trying to say, change your clutch operation as a test, do another sample, see if the numbers improve, if not you need to dig in and see what's up. I'd be willing to bet that it's all from the clutch, including the aluminum...basket fingers wear really fast, especially if you clutch every shift like I do.
WHy do you clutch every shift when the only proven effect in doing so is wearing out clutch components.
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