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Old 04-27-2013, 12:20 PM   #16936
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin.kryjom View Post
HI
I have 628 big bore done by XR only.
I finally put all stuff together and it works wit minor issues like not smooth throtlle on 2nd gear when stady and so on.
Main inssue i have is thet even when outside is not too hot ( 19 C) it get hot very fast after 20 min of fast ride, up to 120 C.
Is this normal for big bore?
I have oil coller not instaled yet, i will do it this weekend, but anyway im wondering if is normal??

You jetting is now lean.

Surging with steady throttle is one of the signs. Running hot is another. More displacement, more HP, more fuel required. Try RAISING your needle a clip and do tests to check pilot and main.

120C is hot. Really hot. If you haven't already, install a fan but please don't use the fan to keep temps down. A properly jetting bike shouldn't overheat under normal riding, however adding power (more heat) causes the cooling system to now be undersized, or at least taxed more.

I would refrain from riding the bike till you work out the jetting issue. As an incentive, more fuel = more power! (provided you can get the air in there as well)
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #16937
PeteN95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broettge View Post
I put one in my BRP last summer too. I agree it is great for the single track, but I was thinking of taking it out because I don't really care for it on the highway.
It seams like i could get it adjust well for the slow tight stuff or for highway driving but had to keep adjusting depending on the riding. Then again, maybe I should replace the rest of my clutch and try the Rekluse with a fresh setup instead of an abused and worn clutch. Then maybe it will work well in all conditions without constant adjusting.
Not sure what you mean? On the highway the clutch should be locked up? The only time the Rekluse slips is when the rpm drops near idle. What model Rekluse are you using, EXP or Z-start? Are you using a clutch lever? If the plates are warped at all, it will cause excess drag and not work properly.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:20 PM   #16938
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I tried retrofitting my Baja Designs headlight with an HID kit. I broke the plastic clip that holds the bulb into the headlight housing. IIRC, there is a standard car headlight assembly that will swap right in, right? I want a metal housing and a metal spring clip to hold the bulb in. Anybody know what headlight from the car world will swap in?

Edit: I'm just going to glue the HID bulb to the headlight housing. Screw it =P

phorensic screwed with this post 04-29-2013 at 06:42 AM Reason: Decided to go a different direction
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:31 AM   #16939
1bigrn
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Globetrottin fairing with 2x3600 lumens

i was considering the Globetrottin fairing with the twin 3600 lumnen lights. i have an entire D/C system so I do not expect there to be any significant issues hooking it up. Does anyone have any experience with the Universal Globetrottin fairing? Is it tough/ How is the fit? How much power does the twin 3600 LED take?
Also I would likely be painting it red. does anyone know what red paint code would match the 2001 xr650r plastic?
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:11 PM   #16940
Adamco2
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Originally Posted by tractor4play View Post
any luck with front axle?
Sent you a PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:51 AM   #16941
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigrn View Post
i was considering the Globetrottin fairing with the twin 3600 lumnen lights. i have an entire D/C system so I do not expect there to be any significant issues hooking it up. Does anyone have any experience with the Universal Globetrottin fairing? Is it tough/ How is the fit? How much power does the twin 3600 LED take?
Also I would likely be painting it red. does anyone know what red paint code would match the 2001 xr650r plastic?

is that 3600 measured lumens, or advertised? They likely are not the same.

I have never heard of a single LED that puts out 3600 lumens. Most of the led assemblies I see putting out that kind of light start at $500 per unit and run upwards of $1200.

Either way, I would expect it to pull about 25w based on a 150w/lumen max efficiency, or perhaps closer to 50w in the real world.

Who knows what leds they are using, since they don't say, I would cut the lumen output by atleast half, and still expect 20W draw per light.

And if you run them on the street, you are an asshat.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:20 AM   #16942
RideFreak
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3600 is pretty impressive, I'm skeptical too. Obviously it'd have to be an LED array to produce that kind of light. a 4300 lumin soltice pulls 50W or a little over 4A and they are very well made lights. Best I can figure it's 80 lumins per watt, so 2x 3600 will put you close to the max output of a rewound stator (at maximum output) and that's using both 100/125W outputs. One thing to remember, the system load shouldn't be sized close to the system output, there's a rule of thumb (I forget the percentage) that the load should consume compared to the output. It's something like 60 or 75%, otherwise you get into issues like overheated conductors, burnt switches etc.

I agree, that's way too much light for street use.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:14 AM   #16943
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Tried to post a pic from my iPad it did nt work.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:02 AM   #16944
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http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/sm...22a3.jpg.html][/URL]I tried to post this pic earlier. I use one light in the fairing for high and one for low when on the street. When more light is needed I turn the ones on the bars on.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:54 PM   #16945
walkergreenlabel
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Question Rekluse EXP

After many hours I have read EVERY page of this thread. thanks to all who have contributed to all of the great info!


Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
Not sure what you mean? On the highway the clutch should be locked up? The only time the Rekluse slips is when the rpm drops near idle. What model Rekluse are you using, EXP or Z-start? Are you using a clutch lever? If the plates are warped at all, it will cause excess drag and not work properly.
I have herd quite a few people comment on how a autoclutch doesn't work, its not a real bike with out a clutch, its for girls who cant ride, bla bla bla. I would like to hear real world experience with the EXP in a BRP. I rode a DR450 with an EXP and the shifting was very hard. I dont know if that's due to the autoclutch, set up on that bike or just inherent in the DR trany. is the shifting any harder with the EXP than without(stock set up using the clutch)? It was tough to idle it to allow it to shift. Have you noticed any issues with hard riding like in deep sand all?
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Old 04-29-2013, 01:11 PM   #16946
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Good times in Kernville at WARPED IX.
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:50 PM   #16947
PeteN95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkergreenlabel View Post
I have herd quite a few people comment on how a autoclutch doesn't work, its not a real bike with out a clutch, its for girls who cant ride, bla bla bla. I would like to hear real world experience with the EXP in a BRP. I rode a DR450 with an EXP and the shifting was very hard. I dont know if that's due to the autoclutch, set up on that bike or just inherent in the DR trany. is the shifting any harder with the EXP than without(stock set up using the clutch)? It was tough to idle it to allow it to shift. Have you noticed any issues with hard riding like in deep sand all?
I have no affection for automatic transmissions, I like to decide when to shift, but I do think the auto clutch is great! It reduces the work load on the rider and allows him to concentrate on riding. It virtually eliminates stalling and I've had an AMA roadrace and flat track champ stall right in front of me, so it has nothing to do with skill. It also helps with holeshots, reduces tire wear, and is like cheating on steep complex hills.

As far as shifting goes, it really shouldn't make any difference. If you are shifting without using the lever, then it is just like shifting a regular bike without using the clutch. You have to roll off the power or "blip" to unload the gears, then shift and roll back into it. It is fairly easy to do on dirt, as most MX racers do when upshifting with a normal clutch. But on pavement or downshifting, it requires some finesse to be smooth. You do not have to let off so much that it goes all the way to idle and releases.

It also will work fine in deep sand, but it is critical to keep track of what gear you are in, as you can wear the clutch plates by riding in the wrong gear. I personally like to ride with no clutch lever at all, so the EXP did not work for me, as it does not slip enough at idle. It is meant to be used with a clutch lever for shifting into neutral and very slow speed riding. I prefer the Z-start, which will slip more off idle, release completely at idle, and does not reduce the number of clutch plates.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:28 PM   #16948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
I have no affection for automatic transmissions, I like to decide when to shift, but I do think the auto clutch is great! It reduces the work load on the rider and allows him to concentrate on riding. It virtually eliminates stalling and I've had an AMA roadrace and flat track champ stall right in front of me, so it has nothing to do with skill. It also helps with holeshots, reduces tire wear, and is like cheating on steep complex hills.

As far as shifting goes, it really shouldn't make any difference. If you are shifting without using the lever, then it is just like shifting a regular bike without using the clutch. You have to roll off the power or "blip" to unload the gears, then shift and roll back into it. It is fairly easy to do on dirt, as most MX racers do when upshifting with a normal clutch. But on pavement or downshifting, it requires some finesse to be smooth. You do not have to let off so much that it goes all the way to idle and releases.

It also will work fine in deep sand, but it is critical to keep track of what gear you are in, as you can wear the clutch plates by riding in the wrong gear. I personally like to ride with no clutch lever at all, so the EXP did not work for me, as it does not slip enough at idle. It is meant to be used with a clutch lever for shifting into neutral and very slow speed riding. I prefer the Z-start, which will slip more off idle, release completely at idle, and does not reduce the number of clutch plates.
I have the Z start and love it. I also have the LH Brake and added the clutch perch shift when I first got the bike. I rarely ever touch it now.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:50 PM   #16949
FlyGuy
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[QUOTE=Burnszilla;21294199]Good times in Kernville at WARPED IX.
Jawbone Canyon!

Yo Burnszilla you ride that setup from redwood city?
Not a lot of gear there in that picture you might be hotelling it ?
Looking like a good time
Keep at it.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:38 AM   #16950
bigtrailie
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Thanks FlyGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
If you go the JB route cook your cover to 250 degrees after around 15 minutes remove from oven then upon cooling through the 140 range apply epoxy it will get very runny but re apply to fill after it cools more

magnesium will hold moisture and you need to cook it out or you will get weak adhesion
Hope that helps
I went the JB weld route using the "cooking" instructions you provided. It worked like a charm.
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