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Old 04-27-2013, 08:22 AM   #16936
Woundflatout
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Location: Portlandia
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Perhaps someone could help me. I'm pretty new to the BRP and am having a carb issue. I have a Mikuni TM40 fitted and the bike starts easy enough. It will fire up but as soon as its warm, it begins to flame out. It randomly stalls. It pops and stutters before doing so and sometimes it can be prevented by getting on the gas. After the bike has been running for more than say 10-15 minutes, this condition goes away. Throttle response is sharp and there are no flat spots so it seems like the jetting is spot on. I've also adjusted the idle up with no resolve. Odd, no?

Thanks for any insight.

Cheers,

Jason
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:53 AM   #16937
martin.kryjom
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Big Bore HRC problem

HI
I have 628 big bore done by XR only.
I finally put all stuff together and it works wit minor issues like not smooth throtlle on 2nd gear when stady and so on.
Main inssue i have is thet even when outside is not too hot ( 19 C) it get hot very fast after 20 min of fast ride, up to 120 C.
Is this normal for big bore?
I have oil coller not instaled yet, i will do it this weekend, but anyway im wondering if is normal??
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:09 AM   #16938
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin.kryjom View Post
I have oil coller not instaled yet, i will do it this weekend, but anyway im wondering if is normal??

Are you talking about the L model? This is the R thread and we use radiators, not oil coolers.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:10 AM   #16939
Dread Pendragon
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I took my 2000 XRR out for a brief ride the other day and the steering resisted turning.

*sigh*

Guess it's time to switch out the steering stem bearings. I might as well switch out the fork seals and fork oil while I have the forks off. Good times.
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #16940
LVCJT
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[QUOTE=martin.kryjom;21280097]HI
I have 628 big bore done by XR only.

Maybe a xr600? Why would I pay for a big bore kit to lose cc's?



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Old 04-27-2013, 11:34 AM   #16941
larryboy
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[QUOTE=DesertDwlr;21280237]
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin.kryjom View Post
HI
I have 628 big bore done by XR only.

Maybe a xr600? Why would I pay for a big bore kit to lose cc's?



doh!



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Old 04-27-2013, 01:20 PM   #16942
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin.kryjom View Post
HI
I have 628 big bore done by XR only.
I finally put all stuff together and it works wit minor issues like not smooth throtlle on 2nd gear when stady and so on.
Main inssue i have is thet even when outside is not too hot ( 19 C) it get hot very fast after 20 min of fast ride, up to 120 C.
Is this normal for big bore?
I have oil coller not instaled yet, i will do it this weekend, but anyway im wondering if is normal??

You jetting is now lean.

Surging with steady throttle is one of the signs. Running hot is another. More displacement, more HP, more fuel required. Try RAISING your needle a clip and do tests to check pilot and main.

120C is hot. Really hot. If you haven't already, install a fan but please don't use the fan to keep temps down. A properly jetting bike shouldn't overheat under normal riding, however adding power (more heat) causes the cooling system to now be undersized, or at least taxed more.

I would refrain from riding the bike till you work out the jetting issue. As an incentive, more fuel = more power! (provided you can get the air in there as well)
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:47 PM   #16943
PeteN95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broettge View Post
I put one in my BRP last summer too. I agree it is great for the single track, but I was thinking of taking it out because I don't really care for it on the highway.
It seams like i could get it adjust well for the slow tight stuff or for highway driving but had to keep adjusting depending on the riding. Then again, maybe I should replace the rest of my clutch and try the Rekluse with a fresh setup instead of an abused and worn clutch. Then maybe it will work well in all conditions without constant adjusting.
Not sure what you mean? On the highway the clutch should be locked up? The only time the Rekluse slips is when the rpm drops near idle. What model Rekluse are you using, EXP or Z-start? Are you using a clutch lever? If the plates are warped at all, it will cause excess drag and not work properly.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:20 PM   #16944
phorensic
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I tried retrofitting my Baja Designs headlight with an HID kit. I broke the plastic clip that holds the bulb into the headlight housing. IIRC, there is a standard car headlight assembly that will swap right in, right? I want a metal housing and a metal spring clip to hold the bulb in. Anybody know what headlight from the car world will swap in?

Edit: I'm just going to glue the HID bulb to the headlight housing. Screw it =P

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Old 04-28-2013, 11:31 AM   #16945
1bigrn
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Globetrottin fairing with 2x3600 lumens

i was considering the Globetrottin fairing with the twin 3600 lumnen lights. i have an entire D/C system so I do not expect there to be any significant issues hooking it up. Does anyone have any experience with the Universal Globetrottin fairing? Is it tough/ How is the fit? How much power does the twin 3600 LED take?
Also I would likely be painting it red. does anyone know what red paint code would match the 2001 xr650r plastic?
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:11 AM   #16946
Adamco2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor4play View Post
any luck with front axle?
Sent you a PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #16947
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigrn View Post
i was considering the Globetrottin fairing with the twin 3600 lumnen lights. i have an entire D/C system so I do not expect there to be any significant issues hooking it up. Does anyone have any experience with the Universal Globetrottin fairing? Is it tough/ How is the fit? How much power does the twin 3600 LED take?
Also I would likely be painting it red. does anyone know what red paint code would match the 2001 xr650r plastic?

is that 3600 measured lumens, or advertised? They likely are not the same.

I have never heard of a single LED that puts out 3600 lumens. Most of the led assemblies I see putting out that kind of light start at $500 per unit and run upwards of $1200.

Either way, I would expect it to pull about 25w based on a 150w/lumen max efficiency, or perhaps closer to 50w in the real world.

Who knows what leds they are using, since they don't say, I would cut the lumen output by atleast half, and still expect 20W draw per light.

And if you run them on the street, you are an asshat.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:20 AM   #16948
RideFreak
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3600 is pretty impressive, I'm skeptical too. Obviously it'd have to be an LED array to produce that kind of light. a 4300 lumin soltice pulls 50W or a little over 4A and they are very well made lights. Best I can figure it's 80 lumins per watt, so 2x 3600 will put you close to the max output of a rewound stator (at maximum output) and that's using both 100/125W outputs. One thing to remember, the system load shouldn't be sized close to the system output, there's a rule of thumb (I forget the percentage) that the load should consume compared to the output. It's something like 60 or 75%, otherwise you get into issues like overheated conductors, burnt switches etc.

I agree, that's way too much light for street use.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:14 AM   #16949
smoothride
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Tried to post a pic from my iPad it did nt work.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:02 PM   #16950
smoothride
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http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/sm...22a3.jpg.html][/URL]I tried to post this pic earlier. I use one light in the fairing for high and one for low when on the street. When more light is needed I turn the ones on the bars on.
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