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Old 05-03-2013, 08:59 PM   #16966
Shibby!
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Confirm your jets aren't clogged. Doesnt take much of a particle to block a pilot which will stop the idling and play havoc with the rest of the jetting.

Remember the pilot does 0-1/8, but is also WFO the whole time above that.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:09 PM   #16967
Lostsaffa
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Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
I was riding home from work today and my bike started cutting out like it was out of gas but it wasnt, i pulled over and started the bike and it started but now the idle is acting kinda strange and it just doesent sound right also theres a stange feeling while i ride i cant describe its just not as smooth. God i hope its the valves or something easy I'm not ready for my pig to die
Take your carb out, open the float bowl, remove hoses and buy a good carb cleaner aerosol and spray the heck out of every hole and opening, letting the cleaner run out carrying any dirt with it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:05 PM   #16968
jwalters
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Hi guys,
I need some jetting help. I've been using the XR jetting guide, but I can't seem to get rid of a low throttle opening studder. The thing pulls like crazy through most throttle/rpm range and it doesn't seem to occur at higher RPM, but when I am in lower RPM and I give it sudden small throttle opening it studders before eventually gaining speed.

I'm at 500 feet, and it's been 30-40 degrees outside. I'm running the stock airbox with a oil-foam air filter. FMF header, FMF exhaust and FMF jet kit. Because of the open exhaust and cold dense air, I think I should be on the fat end of the jetting curve.

Important note, bike ran well with stock header and the FMF. Currently, I'm running a 180 main, 72 idle jet and 2 turns out on the air/idle screw and the needle in the 4th clip from the top, but I still get studdering on occasion. (Since its 1/4 throttle opening, I'm focusing on the idle jet. I was running 68s and 70 idle jet but no different)

Couple more things I'm going to check:
-Look for an airleak...
-Wait for temps to warm up and see if my situation improves
-New spark plug
-Float height? It ran find before the new header so I hate adjusting it...

My question: I hear a lot of folks swapping carbs. Is this a symptom of a stock carb with an uncorked bike? Is this what others observe with the stock carb?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:38 AM   #16969
FlyGuy
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Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi guys,
I need some jetting help. I've been using the XR jetting guide, but I can't seem to get rid of a low throttle opening studder. The thing pulls like crazy through most throttle/rpm range and it doesn't seem to occur at higher RPM, but when I am in lower RPM and I give it sudden small throttle opening it studders before eventually gaining speed.

I'm at 500 feet, and it's been 30-40 degrees outside. I'm running the stock airbox with a oil-foam air filter. FMF header, FMF exhaust and FMF jet kit. Because of the open exhaust and cold dense air, I think I should be on the fat end of the jetting curve.

Important note, bike ran well with stock header and the FMF. Currently, I'm running a 180 main, 72 idle jet and 2 turns out on the air/idle screw and the needle in the 4th clip from the top, but I still get studdering on occasion. (Since its 1/4 throttle opening, I'm focusing on the idle jet. I was running 68s and 70 idle jet but no different)

Couple more things I'm going to check:
-Look for an airleak...
-Wait for temps to warm up and see if my situation improves
-New spark plug
-Float height? It ran find before the new header so I hate adjusting it...

My question: I hear a lot of folks swapping carbs. Is this a symptom of a stock carb with an uncorked bike? Is this what others observe with the stock carb?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
Do the easy things first.
Set Idle mixture to peak rpm then go richer till you notice a decrease in rpm.
(CCW)
test ride and evaluate you might try more mixture again if it helps?
from there you need to plan to remove the carburetor
Check float height (16mm) if higher than >16mm adjust float and re test if a fairly big adjustment was necessary.
if lower than or close to <16mm raise the needle (lower the clip)

Then again you ask if its a typical symptom of the stock carburetor?
you cant expect the stock carb to take on large and fast throttle changes from low RPMs
it should be able to respond well to appropriate throttle control though.

Hope that helps
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:01 AM   #16970
cragdweller
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My 2000 has its rearend pushed to the left when viewing from behind. I know this is a common thing on these bikes. I'm not sure if mine was that way when it was new, at least not to the degree it is now. Has anyone had any luck fixing this? I've read alot of posts on the subject and I've tried tweaking the subframe with a large pipe with no luck. It actually does not appear to be bent, but seems like it was built that way. Is the tweak in the subframe or in the plastic? I don't really want to apply any more force than I've already tried to the subframe, don't want to break a weld. Are later model subframes straighter? New plastic? Thanks
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:12 AM   #16971
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Currently, I'm running a 180 main, 72 idle jet and 2 turns out on the air/idle screw and the needle in the 4th clip from the top, but I still get studdering on occasion.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

I think you're getting into that gigantic main jet too soon, I'd start dropping the needle if you want to run it that rich.
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:57 PM   #16972
jwalters
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Thanks guys for the input, I appreciate it.

First things first, I'm going to remeasure my float level. Maybe it was tweaked when I rebuilt my carb this winter. If the fuel wasn't high enough in the bowl that could explain my symptoms because at higher rpm you have more venturi pressure to suck the fuel up. I've been playing with the idle mixture and various jet/needle positions
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:50 PM   #16973
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi guys,
I need some jetting help...(Since its 1/4 throttle opening, I'm focusing on the idle jet. I was running 68s and 70 idle jet but no different)
My bike is built way beyond what you're describing and I run a 70s pilot. I've had it on the dyno at 600ft and the A/F was perfect. I think you'd have a hard time coming up with a situation where you'd ever need a 72 pilot if my bike doesn't need it. For comparison I run a 192 main jet most of the year, 190 when it's REALLY hot and humid, 195 when it's really cold.

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Old 05-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #16974
graygoat657
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Joined: Apr 2013
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Oddometer: 301
Wonkyy BD DS kit

So I joined the Porcine Patrol with the purchase of a 2003. Did a quick shake down shred, and found a out the DS kit the previous owner installed has some errant behavior. If I flick the right blinker on, works (pretty much) like it should. Flick the left blinker and the head light blinks. On top of that no brake or tail light (have yet to put a meter on things), and the whole system likes to have a bit of throttle to operate. The battery still seems alive (strong horn when engine off).
Any one run into something like this? Thinking its going to be some hours of poking and prodding.
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:37 PM   #16975
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Thanks guys for the input, I appreciate it.

Lean it out. Do you have a screen kit on the airbox cover? Take it for a quick whip without the cover on it, I bet the stutter is gone. Or drop the needle.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:56 AM   #16976
PeteN95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I think you're getting into that gigantic main jet too soon, I'd start dropping the needle if you want to run it that rich.
That is what happened when I added a header and cam, I had to drop the needle and go up 3 jet sizes, currently 180, because it went lean on top and fat in the middle. That last dyno run he said it needed another bigger jet and a pilot, now at 70.
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Old 05-05-2013, 01:08 PM   #16977
XR650Gnar
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Thermostat?

I just rebuilt pretty much the whole bike including the engine, ended up modifying the side panel for airflow and going with a stage 1 cam which required me to go to the third clip on the B53E needle and bumping from a 165 main to a 170, it seems to be running great, good power througout the throttle range, minimal popping on decel, decent idle. throughout the break in Ive been a little nervous that my water temp sensor wasnt working so Ive been doing short runs to keep the temps low, today I finished up with the rest of the odds and ends and took it for a ride, well ill be damned it started to register the temp! Which means its either been staying below 100*F or the thing actually wasnt working and now is. I did go with some larger chinese built ebay radiators that Im actually quite pleased with but now they seem to be working too well, I couldnt get the temp to break 130*F. I was running without the T-stat before the rebuild as it was running hot, but I assume I should run one now? I think running temp should be around 190-200 right?
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:17 PM   #16978
Cpt. Ron
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I believe the thermostat opens at around 180.
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Old 05-05-2013, 03:14 PM   #16979
jwalters
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Great feedback, thanks! Maybe I over compensated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
My bike is built way beyond what you're describing and I run a 70s pilot. I've had it on the dyno at 600ft and the A/F was perfect. I think you'd have a hard time coming up with a situation where you'd ever need a 72 pilot if my bike doesn't need it. For comparison I run a 192 main jet most of the year, 190 when it's REALLY hot and humid, 195 when it's really cold.

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Old 05-05-2013, 03:25 PM   #16980
Trl Rdr
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Quoted a post, but it grabbed some other post!
This was for for the guy with the XR600 rebuilt to 628 getting hot.
Did you up size the jets after the rebuild?
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