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Old 06-12-2013, 09:04 PM   #17266
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
What I really meant to ask, Is it worthwhile going the HID route with the bigger price tag?

I've got an H7 kit in the ATM Adventure and it works relatively okay. I ust need to raise the beam, cos damn that thing is low!

Would the Ricky Stator be an easier means to the upgrade (instead of having mine rewound)

You can get HID kits for halogen bulb housings. Not ideal, but works. That's what I have. It's actually decent projection and beam pattern. It's an offroad light anyways so glare will always happen.

I have ~35,000 KM's this way with countless starts and stops and no issues.

Buying a prewound stator is the easiest. Then you'll need a regulator rectifier for HID. With a halogen bulb you won't.

Good idea to relay the headlight as well to avoid all the current going through a small switch and wiring.

As previously mentioned, fuses are a good idea too. Solid connectors and soldiering is recommended. Poor connections will be a nightmare finding issues.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 06-13-2013, 01:29 AM   #17267
achile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
I just picked up a BRP Sunday. I rode it on trails in the afternoon, then 615 road miles home on Monday. What a bike!

I figured a valve check was in order at the end of the trip. So the "T" on the flywheel doesn't line up with TDC - at least I don't think so. I checked a dozen times. The valves were under pressure and there was no play in the rocker arms, even if I backed the adjusters way out. If I just looked at the intakes rising, then checked the cyl through the spark plug hole to confirm piston location, the spot with play in the rockers did not line up with the T mark. Valves adjusted just fine with that method, and runs fine. I'm about to recheck them to make sure the decomp didn't come into play, but that shouldn't change the intakes or the left exhaust if I am understanding the TDC and valve relationship.

The flywheel has been out before, and the bike has a different clutch and stator. Is it possible that everything is fine and the T on the flywheel just didn't get reinstalled with its original orientation? If that's the case I'm not going to worry about it unless there is a reason to dig into it. Thanks for any insight.
The piston reaches the top of his rotation two times per cycle. Once, with the valves compressed, once decompressed. If this isn't the issue, you shoud rotate the cranck until the valves are decompressed, check the position, take the cover off the cylinder head and check the cam sprocket. Take some pictures and post them.
p.s: also, check the piston position
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:26 AM   #17268
stevh0
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
You can get HID kits for halogen bulb housings. Not ideal, but works. That's what I have. It's actually decent projection and beam pattern. It's an offroad light anyways so glare will always happen.

I have ~35,000 KM's this way with countless starts and stops and no issues.

Buying a prewound stator is the easiest. Then you'll need a regulator rectifier for HID. With a halogen bulb you won't.

Good idea to relay the headlight as well to avoid all the current going through a small switch and wiring.

As previously mentioned, fuses are a good idea too. Solid connectors and soldiering is recommended. Poor connections will be a nightmare finding issues.



Thanks buddy! Looks like im on the hunt for a Le paz...
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:16 AM   #17269
Chris_W_65
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Souf Efrica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
I just picked up a BRP Sunday. I rode it on trails in the afternoon, then 615 road miles home on Monday. What a bike!

I figured a valve check was in order at the end of the trip. So the "T" on the flywheel doesn't line up with TDC - at least I don't think so. I checked a dozen times. The valves were under pressure and there was no play in the rocker arms, even if I backed the adjusters way out. If I just looked at the intakes rising, then checked the cyl through the spark plug hole to confirm piston location, the spot with play in the rockers did not line up with the T mark. Valves adjusted just fine with that method, and runs fine. I'm about to recheck them to make sure the decomp didn't come into play, but that shouldn't change the intakes or the left exhaust if I am understanding the TDC and valve relationship.

The flywheel has been out before, and the bike has a different clutch and stator. Is it possible that everything is fine and the T on the flywheel just didn't get reinstalled with its original orientation? If that's the case I'm not going to worry about it unless there is a reason to dig into it. Thanks for any insight.
You need to turn the flywheel at least 2 turns counter clockwise
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:14 AM   #17270
OR Trail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
The piston reaches the top of his rotation two times per cycle. Once, with the valves compressed, once decompressed. If this isn't the issue, you shoud rotate the cranck until the valves are decompressed, check the position, take the cover off the cylinder head and check the cam sprocket. Take some pictures and post them.
p.s: also, check the piston position
Thank you for the replies. I re-checked my work. I rotated the back wheel a couple of cycles. With the piston at the top, and valves decompressed, valve clearances checked out. The "T" mark on the flywheel didn't line up though. When the T is at the top, visible in the sight hole) the valves are tight - on both cycles. Bike starts and runs great. I strongly suspect that the flywheel is oriented upside down (was probably pulled and reinstalled at a different point in its rotation). Is this possible? If so is it worth worrying about?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:32 AM   #17271
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post


Thanks buddy! Looks like im on the hunt for a Le paz...

I should also mention that I have the Trailtech Race Light. Not the Baja Designs.

It's the Halogen model with a 35 W HID kit in it. No point going 50W unless you want to pay for the proper bulbs which are not cheap. DDM tuning is my kit. I think it was like 40$. Has worked flawless for years of abuse.

I got the whitest light, but would almost want to venture into the yellow temperature next time. 4300? I think mines around 4500/4800k.

I have the same problem with my LED lightbar. The light is almost too white.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 06-13-2013, 07:49 AM   #17272
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
Thank you for the replies. I re-checked my work. I rotated the back wheel a couple of cycles. With the piston at the top, and valves decompressed, valve clearances checked out. The "T" mark on the flywheel didn't line up though. When the T is at the top, visible in the sight hole) the valves are tight - on both cycles. Bike starts and runs great. I strongly suspect that the flywheel is oriented upside down (was probably pulled and reinstalled at a different point in its rotation). Is this possible? If so is it worth worrying about?
I don't think the flywheel can put on wrong. There is a woodruff key to position the flywheel on the crankshaft. If your timing mark and cams are out of sequence, it's due to the camchain and cam sprockets. They could be one tooth off and still run.

To verify the real TDC, put a long screwdriver or stick down the spark plug hole. Gently rotate the flywheel (or rear wheel while in a high gear) counter clockwise. While doing this, be careful you don't jam your stick/screwdriver in the spark plug hole. When the piston is at the top of the stroke at TDC, I'm sure you'll find the timing mark on the flywheel is correct. Now remove the valve cover (not just the valve adjustment ports) and verify that the sprocket/cam is aligned properly with the top of the head at TDC. There should be two marks on the sprocket that show this.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:20 AM   #17273
Shibby!
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Due to our terrain, all my dual sport buddies except two ride MX/Trail bikes. The other two are on a KTM 690 and another XRR.

This weekend I'll be doing a couple day dual sport ride. I'll be on the biggest and heaviest bike. We'll see how that goes. Next closest is a Husaberg 570, then a couple 450's and a 350. It's held it's own in the past on local rides, Moab, Baja, etc so I should be good.

I'll see if I can get some good pictures. We're still limited with snow blocking most passes, but I imagine we're going to check them out and see how far we can make it.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 06-13-2013, 09:11 AM   #17274
Chris_W_65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
Thank you for the replies. I re-checked my work. I rotated the back wheel a couple of cycles. With the piston at the top, and valves decompressed, valve clearances checked out. The "T" mark on the flywheel didn't line up though. When the T is at the top, visible in the sight hole) the valves are tight - on both cycles. Bike starts and runs great. I strongly suspect that the flywheel is oriented upside down (was probably pulled and reinstalled at a different point in its rotation). Is this possible? If so is it worth worrying about?
Did you rotate the rear wheel backwards? As far as I know you have to turn the engine backwards at least 2 cycles to make sure the auto decompressor is disengaged?
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:40 AM   #17275
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_W_65 View Post
Did you rotate the rear wheel backwards? As far as I know you have to turn the engine backwards at least 2 cycles to make sure the auto decompressor is disengaged?

You have to turn it FORWARDS. As if the bike was going forward.

Otherwise the auto decomp kicks in. It stops the kicker from wacking you in the leg on non-starts.
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Tour of Idaho T1 Challenge - https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php...551f1642711d75
Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 06-13-2013, 09:41 AM   #17276
OR Trail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
I don't think the flywheel can put on wrong. There is a woodruff key to position the flywheel on the crankshaft. If your timing mark and cams are out of sequence, it's due to the camchain and cam sprockets. They could be one tooth off and still run.

To verify the real TDC, put a long screwdriver or stick down the spark plug hole. Gently rotate the flywheel (or rear wheel while in a high gear) counter clockwise. While doing this, be careful you don't jam your stick/screwdriver in the spark plug hole. When the piston is at the top of the stroke at TDC, I'm sure you'll find the timing mark on the flywheel is correct. Now remove the valve cover (not just the valve adjustment ports) and verify that the sprocket/cam is aligned properly with the top of the head at TDC. There should be two marks on the sprocket that show this.
Thanks. I verified the piston was at the top of the stroke with a stick, and it didn't correspond with the timing mark. I'll pull the valve cover completely and get the flywheel cover off. It sounds like something else may be off.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:45 AM   #17277
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
Valves adjusted just fine with that method, and runs fine.

Thanks for any insight.

All done, go for a ride. I never check timing marks on any engine, just rotate the engine any damn direction you want, make sure the valves are closed and check the gaps, adjust as needed.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:14 AM   #17278
FREGOLA
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Italy coast to coast

From West coast to est coast with an XR650R, 1100km in three days..




























In one picture you can see the memorial stone for Fabrizio Meoni, at the top of his village..
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:39 AM   #17279
stevh0
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Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I should also mention that I have the Trailtech Race Light. Not the Baja Designs.

It's the Halogen model with a 35 W HID kit in it. No point going 50W unless you want to pay for the proper bulbs which are not cheap. DDM tuning is my kit. I think it was like 40$. Has worked flawless for years of abuse.

I got the whitest light, but would almost want to venture into the yellow temperature next time. 4300? I think mines around 4500/4800k.

I have the same problem with my LED lightbar. The light is almost too white.
Even the 6000k hid china kits are nasty. Id like to also move closer to 4300.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:39 AM   #17280
BuRPsa
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OR,

I'd take LB's advise.
Keep in mind that the ignition's timing block (which triggers the ignition pulse) sits on the flywheel/rotor, and if it is 'off position' as you say then it follows the ignition has to be too - but you say it runs, or runs well?
The flywheel is (woodruff)keyed to the crank, and unless the key or slots are damaged there's no way for it to misalign - unless it is a different flywheel off another bike, not impossible but a bit remote.
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