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Old 06-13-2013, 12:04 PM   #17281
b45her
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Sunny South Wales
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Jason, sure that's a metric bolt? Looks a bit funny, too course thread...
I'd use a bolt & nyloc nut, won't come loose.




How long is a piece of string? It's fuggered, get a new one - anbd yeah, that's a lot of work, but work during which I would replace every seal & bearing also because you're in there anyway - but that's just me
Thanks for the reply.. I thought as much but just wanted to try get the summers riding done before I strip it down
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:26 PM   #17282
OR Trail
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
OR,

I'd take LB's advise.
Keep in mind that the ignition's timing block (which triggers the ignition pulse) sits on the flywheel/rotor, and if it is 'off position' as you say then it follows the ignition has to be too - but you say it runs, or runs well?
The flywheel is (woodruff)keyed to the crank, and unless the key or slots are damaged there's no way for it to misalign - unless it is a different flywheel off another bike, not impossible but a bit remote.
The bike's running well. I bought it from an inmate that does rally support for a living and has owned 4 of them - he thought it ran well. I rode it single track and 600+ miles of pavement with a hanging idle at the end of the ride, seemingly cured with the valve adjustment (but just a short ride on it to confirm). It pulls harder than the other thumpers I have owned / ridden, and purrs at idle too. Starts on the 2nd or 3rd kick. 40 MPG on the slab trip. Everything seems great except the mysterious "T" alignment.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:17 PM   #17283
crypto666
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I should also mention that I have the Trailtech Race Light. Not the Baja Designs.

It's the Halogen model with a 35 W HID kit in it. No point going 50W unless you want to pay for the proper bulbs which are not cheap. DDM tuning is my kit. I think it was like 40$. Has worked flawless for years of abuse.

I got the whitest light, but would almost want to venture into the yellow temperature next time. 4300? I think mines around 4500/4800k.

I have the same problem with my LED lightbar. The light is almost too white.

I am running the DDM 55w in a PIAA housing and it works well. I have about six of these HIDs in operation and have yet to burn up a bulb. I have been through a few ballasts, but its usually because something went south with the power supply. I am running the 3000K temp, and its still a really white light, the lower the temp the better they say. It seems that if you run them in a light that uses a lens and not just a reflector to control the pattern they work fairly well. You can play with the bulb mounting to "tune" it and see how the postiion changes the pattern.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:35 PM   #17284
jm-2008
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Or

[QUOTE=OR Trail;21636057]Thanks. I verified the piston was at the top of the stroke with a stick, and it didn't correspond with the timing mark. I'll pull the valve cover completely and get the flywheel cover off. It sounds like something else may be off.

OR
Much good avice from Capt Ron, Burpsa and others to get you sorted.
Bear in mind the T mark is very hard to see and usually wont stay put (magnets I think) unless held in position with socket and T bar.

Basic fundamentals for the engine to run correctly/well

Compression
Good fuel
Spark - in the right place

If all these are present and I suspect they are if as you say it runs well I'd wager flywheel position is correct.

Only times I have seen a flywheel spin on the shaft and shear the key has been on two strokes.
Whilst not impossible on the thumper not as likely.
Technical reasons aside if it was actually sheared and the flywheel moved to the wrong position you would likely experience chuffing/banging from the exhaust, backfiring from the carby and your right foot would be in pain!
The chances of the key shearing and the flywheel moving less than 10 degrees whilst not impossible is highly unlikely.

Elswhere in this thread you will find suggestions on various methods of setting valves, all good reading.

FWIW I have used the following method successfully on various bikes for decades
1) remove valve covers
2) turn off the ignition
3) slowly push down the kick starter by hand applying steady pressure until you see the inlet valves open (go down) then close (come up)

Note: at this point you will feel compression increase significantly at first as you are on the compression stroke, keep applying steady pressure and you will feel the piston coming up to TDC.
As it gets nearer TDC resistance will decrease, at this point ease off the amount of pressure applied to the kick starter and you will feel it 'bump' over TDC (very slightly), takes some practice but just let it bump over and stop pushing at that point

4) check and adjust the valves at this point

The cam followers will be on the cams base circle (opposite the lobe) at this point and you have a fair degree of lattitude (a few degrees) as to acceptable crank/cam position for adjusting the valves.

Sounds complicated when described step by step but actually takes less than a minute to do once you have the valve covers off.

Method works fine and helps you develop a 'FEEL' for whats going on inside the motor.
Also rotates the motor in the correct direction and alleviates issues with auto decomp mechanisms that some people experience.

Doubtless other inmates have methods that work equally as well for them that can be followed but this one works on all four stroke motors providing you have a kick starter, otherwise rotate with a socket & T bar on the crank.

Hope this is usefull and makes sense

Regards,
JM-2008

jm-2008 screwed with this post 06-13-2013 at 03:48 PM
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:24 PM   #17285
Jayrod1318
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I officially have no copper/bronze bits in my oil. I cut apart a filter last night and found nothing.

I'm going to skip this oil analysis and do one the next 1000 miles. Mostly Just to see if the rotella t6 synthetic holds up better.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:01 PM   #17286
OR Trail
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Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
OR,

I'd take LB's advise.
Keep in mind that the ignition's timing block (which triggers the ignition pulse) sits on the flywheel/rotor, and if it is 'off position' as you say then it follows the ignition has to be too - but you say it runs, or runs well?
The flywheel is (woodruff)keyed to the crank, and unless the key or slots are damaged there's no way for it to misalign - unless it is a different flywheel off another bike, not impossible but a bit remote.
I took the flywheel cover off and things checked out tonight. I may have just had trouble using the kickstarter, turning the wheel, etc. although the "T" in the sight hole wasn't working yesterday. With the cover off and using a wrench to turn the motor, with the advantage of seeing where the marking was on its way up, everything was as it is supposed to be. Maybe I shouldn't have tried a short cut on the first time checking the valves. Thanks for the input, and I'll be looking forward to riding instead of wrenching for the summer.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:41 AM   #17287
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OR Trail View Post
.. everything was as it is supposed to be.
That it then, round of beers for us are on you!
Next try JM's method, or take the plug out and insert a straw (nothing else!) in the hole to 'feel' the piston, and anywhere remotely closish to TDC's fine then for adjusting the valves.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Mostly Just to see if the rotella t6 synthetic holds up better.
That will be interesting, pls keep us posted if only for me.
I bet it will, that's a fine oil that one! 1-up is the Rimula, a multigrade (here at least)
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:19 PM   #17288
sintax
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I've been running Rotella T6 in my bike for a couple of years now. I always have it on hand because thats what I run in my Chevy Duramax.

I do seem to burn a bit of oil? Maybe its in my head?
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:10 PM   #17289
Woundflatout
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
I've been running Rotella T6 in my bike for a couple of years now. I always have it on hand because thats what I run in my Chevy Duramax.

I do seem to burn a bit of oil? Maybe its in my head?
It's also the oil of choice for KTM factory riders...quality stuff for the fragile orange motors! ;)
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:57 PM   #17290
sintax
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I posted a few odds and ends for sale in the Parts section if anyone is interested...

devol rad guards and Xr's only case saver
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:24 AM   #17291
slickwill
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I've been running Rotella T6 in my bike for a couple of years now.
That's also what I run. I did A LOT of oil research a few years back and started digging into all of the spec sheets and when you look at the numbers it really is impressive stuff. Then to prove it I thrashed a sample in my CBR600 for 3k miles and included a couple track days. Then I sent it to Blackstone for analysis and it still came back with better numbers than some of the competitors have when new.

The thumper is hard on oil in some different ways but I have no doubt that the Rotella is working based on what I saw in the other bike.
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:40 AM   #17292
cognugget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
That's also what I run. I did A LOT of oil research a few years back and started digging into all of the spec sheets and when you look at the numbers it really is impressive stuff. Then to prove it I thrashed a sample in my CBR600 for 3k miles and included a couple track days. Then I sent it to Blackstone for analysis and it still came back with better numbers than some of the competitors have when new.

The thumper is hard on oil in some different ways but I have no doubt that the Rotella is working based on what I saw in the other bike.
I run rotella T3 in everything! 2 stroke gear boxes, my xr650r, any other bike I work on, My old toyota 22r...... It just does everything
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #17293
Jayrod1318
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The regular dino Rotella T has worked fine and still had life left in it after 1000 miles but its was getting out of spec viscosity wise. Nothing that would damage anything, but my shifting and clutch feel go to shit when the oil gets about 800-1000 miles on it. The T6 is supposed to be more shear stable. If i can get it to hold viscocity wise for 1,500-2k I'm going to be a happy camper because I have other things to do besides having to change the oil because i don't like how my clutch and shifting feel.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:05 PM   #17294
dogsslober
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Battery box

Been toying with the idea of a better battery for my 650R than the nicad that came with a BD duel sport kit. Here the first try, will refine it a little more but I think I'm on the right track. Have to add small strap and a wire harness
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #17295
bill pierce
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I have the same battery. I ended up installing it under the rear fender.

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