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Old 08-10-2013, 11:04 AM   #17791
Woundflatout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
if you are running the 908 is it hitting the air box? I ran 140,150 and 160 sm and my air box got some damage so I have only ran 120s the last few years.

with the ktm 990 I have lots of 908s that have life left in them. B
I noticed a few black scuff marks on my FMF can but can't see any damage to the air box....so far so good!
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:14 AM   #17792
BigNastybrp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ded6080 View Post
Case saver - http://www.xr650r.co.uk/ - not cheap though - I'm using a xr's only case saver, sprocket is exposed though - wearing good boots

I think I had like 15T/48 on there.

Also I need a good case saver that wont leave the chain exposed. It always freaks me out. Will a new chain guide need to be bought as well?
[/QUOTE]

just put the stock one over the top of the xr's only. that's what it did the other looks like it is not using the third bolt the large one, the one on the top right.
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #17793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woundflatout View Post
I noticed a few black scuff marks on my FMF can but can't see any damage to the air box....so far so good!
the 908 is crazy! I get so many more miles 3400 mile out of them. on the 990 but at three times the cost of the ac10 or the 606 (this is the rears I use on the 650r, 1500 miles at best). only thing is the stiff side wall and so no flex. it a monster best price I find is $194 all the way to $300
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Old 08-10-2013, 12:25 PM   #17794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hontri View Post
You only replace 3 friction and 2 steel in order to install the auto clutch pack. You still use the remaining OEM frictions and steels.I would say if you are having problems with the basket you better change it. Once engaged the auto clutch works the same as the stock.

I got ya, I did find some info on the install last night after i posted but thanks for the reply. I am thinking seriously about the auto clutch. I need to find a bike locally that has a Rekluse and take it for a spin before I buy a $400 paper weight! Thanks
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Old 08-10-2013, 02:20 PM   #17795
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just put the stock one over the top of the xr's only. that's what it did the other looks like it is not using the third bolt the large one, the one on the top right.
Sadly the stock one is not on there. Just a really cheap looking case saver.

Quote:
if its stock hubs YES 15/48 is more dirt than street I run 15/45 for dual sport for sm I run 15/42. hope that helps. B
Looks like I have 15/44t currently on there.

I have morad wheels, but I do not know anything about the hubs. They are unmarked and gold in color. I assume the stock sprockets will bolt up... Sadly I was such a noob I forgot to ask the seller all these things a year ago. I was just exited to get a CA plated xr650r supermoto.

If I went say 15/43t how many links will the chain need? I am going to go with a RK chain this time. I am happy so far with my RK chain on my other bike.

EDIT: They are talon hubs.
EDIT2: Sorta considering staying at 15/44t

medisyn screwed with this post 08-10-2013 at 04:50 PM
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Old 08-11-2013, 02:31 AM   #17796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
Pete, let me get this correct:
- this fits into the clutch if you (I would think) take a few plates out and put this in?
- when done this will 'auto-operate' the clutch PLUS still leaves the normal manual operation present?
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:40 AM   #17797
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Unfortunately I needed the manual a bit too soon!

My first BRP, although I've owned upwards of 8 to 10 XR600s, plus XR500, 400, etc. So I know the aircooled engines well

Picked up my 2006 model with only 4k miles. Rode 100 miles home. 10 miles to go it was getting clicky sounds in top end, clicky, but nothing alarming.
Another 5 miles and suddenly the click-rattle was louder than exhaust note, so switched off and coasted to a garage where the bike is now stored.

Oil level was mid way on dipstick at 50 miles into the trip home.

After I stopped I checked the oil level again, and it was about 4cm from end of dip stick.

Asides from the rattle terrible noise it was actually running ok. There was no sign of tight exhaust valves or anything.

Any guesses? I figure either:
A. Ran low on oil and I've cooked the head, tappet's, cams etc. But as said, the oil was reading mid to low, but not at all near empty?
B. The last service didn't tighten the tappet lock nut, and it's come off
C. Something loose in decompression assembly?


This is an important bike for me, I usually do all my own top end engine work, but for this one I luckily know an ex Honda race team mechanic, he will look into it over next few weeks.... He is on holiday until Thursday, and the waiting to find what is wrong is not nice!! :(


After purposefully buying so many XR600s with cooked heads to repair and sell on, this is very ironic... :(
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:17 AM   #17798
ded6080
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Good idea - I dug out the stock cover and put it on over the xr's only case saver last night


just put the stock one over the top of the xr's only. that's what it did the other looks like it is not using the third bolt the large one, the one on the top right.[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #17799
FlyGuy
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Any guesses? I figure either:
A. Ran low on oil and I've cooked the head, tappet's, cams etc. But as said, the oil was reading mid to low, but not at all near empty?
B. The last service didn't tighten the tappet lock nut, and it's come off
C. Something loose in decompression assembly?

Manual
http://sdrv.ms/161s4G3

The 650R has ball bearings supporting the cam, so the head is probably OK
the older models ran on the aluminum head
But the cam and folowers are a posability.
You are probably on the right track? If you consumed a large amount of oil in a short distance? The previous owner probably ran it low on oil before he figured it out.
A check of the valves would be in order and the first I would check.
Removing the rocker box may reveal your woes? and is easy to do.
Good luck and keep her going, they are becoming more rare by the day
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #17800
WunderfulLusterful
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Pete, let me get this correct:
- this fits into the clutch if you (I would think) take a few plates out and put this in?
- when done this will 'auto-operate' the clutch PLUS still leaves the normal manual operation present?

Yes, you replace 2 or 3 steels and friction plates with this plate. From what I read, the clutch lever will still disengage the clutch but obviously it will not engage it. They say that the disengagement "area" is always in a different spot depending on engine rpm. I have been looking locally for a Rekluse-equipped bike to test out before I drop the coin on one. Reviews on the EXP have all been very positive.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:14 AM   #17801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
After I stopped I checked the oil level again, and it was about 4cm from end of dip stick.

Asides from the rattle terrible noise it was actually running ok. There was no sign of tight exhaust valves or anything.

Any guesses? I figure either:
A. Ran low on oil and I've cooked the head, tappet's, cams etc. But as said, the oil was reading mid to low, but not at all near empty?
B. The last service didn't tighten the tappet lock nut, and it's come off
C. Something loose in decompression assembly?

I had this happen to my 2000 two years ago. Same symptoms as you describe. I ended up having to do the cam, rockers and tappets. I lucked out and catch it before it took out the wrist pin or crank. I did the rings, timing chain, timing guides, valve seals and a few other small parts all at the same time. I did find that my intake valves were worn out too. I put another 1000 miles on those valves before I had to do the head rebuild too. Just be prepared for the cam, rockers and cam bearings to need replaced. I didn't replace the cam bearing with the rest of the parts but not ever 20 miles after the rebuild the bearings came apart. They are cheap, like $12 each so it is well worth it because you know they were starved of oil too.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #17802
bigkuri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WunderfulLusterful View Post
I had this happen to my 2000 two years ago. Same symptoms as you describe. I ended up having to do the cam, rockers and tappets. I lucked out and catch it before it took out the wrist pin or crank. I did the rings, timing chain, timing guides, valve seals and a few other small parts all at the same time. I did find that my intake valves were worn out too. I put another 1000 miles on those valves before I had to do the head rebuild too. Just be prepared for the cam, rockers and cam bearings to need replaced. I didn't replace the cam bearing with the rest of the parts but not ever 20 miles after the rebuild the bearings came apart. They are cheap, like $12 each so it is well worth it because you know they were starved of oil too.

many thanks. That's what I figure....
Will see in a few days when my mechanic is back! So frustrating not knowing, but I know as ex mech that it's so much better getting the whole job and not a partially stripped bike :-)
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:49 AM   #17803
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Originally Posted by bigkuri View Post
many thanks. That's what I figure....
Will see in a few days when my mechanic is back! So frustrating not knowing, but I know as ex mech that it's so much better getting the whole job and not a partially stripped bike :-)


You can pull the valve covers off and look in there. You can see the lobes of the cam, if they are no smooth and shiny then you will need a cam. If they are rough at all, the cam is junk as are the rockets. You can have your old rockers hard-surfaced and reground. There is a guy on ebay that does it for around $180 which is the same price of a new set of 3 rockers.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #17804
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Also, another quick way to inspect things is to pull the oil filter and look between the pleats. If there are chunks or alot of metal debris there is some internal damage. The oil that is in the bike will tell you the whole story of what is going on.




This is what you will more than likely find in there, note the discoloration of the "follower" end of the rocket.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=3668

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Old 08-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #17805
bigkuri
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Thanks! But not in England! Cheaper here to buy new :( We just don't have the shop mechanics you guys have :(

I gave lifted many heads, just a bit bummed as just bought the damned thing....
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