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Old 08-26-2013, 05:18 PM   #17926
PineyMountainRacing
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: SW Florida / Western NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
I haven't taken the W9 wheel / hub apart. I suspect the bearing spacer (or collar) is still installed, I didn't actually look. The wheels look basically new. As for the axle spacers (adapters), they are in the right place, i.e., the rotor side spacer is on the right and the sprocket side..... I measured and marked them from the Warp9 drawings. I'll take it all back apart tonite and remeasure. Thanks!
Well I swapped the spacers around and I think I'm ok. The W9 drawings show the longer spacer on the sprocket side, but I moved it to the rotor side and vice versa. That pushed the rotor to the left and relieved the interference.

Can I run it without the chain guard that's normally below the swimgarm? I took it off since it was catching on a wheel weight. But even if I took the weight off, it would be awful close to the rim. I heard some guys run a 4.50" rim, I don't see how.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:40 PM   #17927
bill pierce
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Location: Rockford, Wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post

Can I run it without the chain guard that's normally below the swimgarm? I took it off since it was catching on a wheel weight. But even if I took the weight off, it would be awful close to the rim. I heard some guys run a 4.50" rim, I don't see how.
I flipped the chain guide bolts so the flat head is on the inside. Some guy's modify the guide by cutting down the front part off.

I would not try running without the guide, as the chain tension is set rather loose. This is necessary because of how much swing arm travel there is.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:00 PM   #17928
stevh0
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
I like it, how does the light look thru that weird (but kinda cool) colour lens?
Originally the orange covers were designed to improve visiblity during off-road/dirt road use in dust and misty conditions. It worked so well that more and more riders started using them on-road as well.

I figured I almost never ride at night and when I do, the stock XRR headlight would be pretty sucky anyhow...
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:00 AM   #17929
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I flipped the chain guide bolts so the flat head is on the inside. Some guy's modify the guide by cutting down the front part off.

I would not try running without the guide, as the chain tension is set rather loose. This is necessary because of how much swing arm travel there is.
I asked because it looks so much better without the guard hanging off the swinger. But I figured I needed it LOL. I looked at it this morning before work and it would be easy to cut it down and reverse the bolts, so that's what I'll do. Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:01 AM   #17930
Sniper X
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Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevh0 View Post
Originally the orange covers were designed to improve visiblity during off-road/dirt road use in dust and misty conditions. It worked so well that more and more riders started using them on-road as well.

I figured I almost never ride at night and when I do, the stock XRR headlight would be pretty sucky anyhow...
Yes, that is a daylight filter to mimic daylight. However, I haven't heard that anyone does that for some time since HID and LED lights have become all the rage. Good to see it still works. I am spoiled on WHITE light now that I have LED ADVMonster LEds which are very white compared to a stock headlight on an XR.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:11 AM   #17931
dsilver1007
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Location: Clemson SC
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xr650r

Having problems with my edelbrock (surprise surprise), the pumper is having problems and the throttle is starting to hang.

the question is, what should i do? try fixing the edelbrock?i know the parts are basically unobtainable . Go back with the stock carb?

My bike is pretty much stock other than a full after market exhaust and the thing ripped with the edelbrock and i could never get the stocker quite right.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:27 PM   #17932
FlyGuy
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Location: Middle of Highway 1 California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigrn View Post
I had a lot of people responded to my original post. However most people I believe missed the title "Problems with my Mikuni Pumper Carb" Please keep in mind when respondin to my inquirey, it is a Mikuni Pumper Carb. Thanks
What happens if you turn the idle down?
then readjust the mixture
Both easy to do on the TM40, I can adjust while sitting on the seat
There is more to it than that but you should be down to 1500 rpm after that the ignition timing increases and its hard to stabilize the idle.
I typically see a large RPM difference on my vapor 1200-1500 or more

If you have a bike with a light weight piston and or lighted crank parts I recommend a different ignition or modify the one you have to alter the advance curve to a higher RPM.

2000 RPM is a bit to high for a stock motor
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:33 PM   #17933
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsilver1007 View Post
Having problems with my edelbrock (surprise surprise), the pumper is having problems and the throttle is starting to hang.

the question is, what should i do? try fixing the edelbrock?i know the parts are basically unobtainable . Go back with the stock carb?

My bike is pretty much stock other than a full after market exhaust and the thing ripped with the edelbrock and i could never get the stocker quite right.
Stock carb if your not willing to spend the money for the TM40
Or someone might chime in with some eddy parts for you (possible wishful thinking?) most people liked them when they were right.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:34 PM   #17934
medisyn
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So I just ordered a chain and now I am confused on how many links I need with my SM wheel setup.

I have 15/44t sprockets ordered from XR's only. They called me today and said that I need a 120 link chain.

I am pretty sure 110 or 108 links is how many I need. I know I can cut it down, but now I am unsure what I need. Anybody with a similar setup?
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:17 PM   #17935
PineyMountainRacing
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I just put a set of 17's on mine, with 15/44 gearing. I took 2 links out of the stock chain, and that put the axle about half way in the adjustment range. It's pouring outside or I'd walk out to the shop and count how many links are in the chain now. But I know it's the chain tht came on the bike with the stock gearing.
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:29 PM   #17936
PeteN95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X View Post
I stuck a washer about 3mm thick on the side that was closer and it worked perfectly.
That is going to tweak your forks a bit, why not just adjust the lacing to even the rim out?
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:44 PM   #17937
PineyMountainRacing
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Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
That is going to tweak your forks a bit, why not just adjust the lacing to even the rim out?
Yeah, I could add 2.5 mm on one side and take 2.5 off the other spacer, but that will move the rotor. Is there supposed to be an offset on the hub? I was told by W9 that the hubs are CRF hubs. I put the wheel in the truing stand and it looks like there is 0 offset now. I can move the rim over in relation to the hub, that's the only way without moving the rotor and / or increasing the distance between the forks.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:14 PM   #17938
dsilver1007
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carb

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
Stock carb if your not willing to spend the money for the TM40
Or someone might chime in with some eddy parts for you (possible wishful thinking?) most people liked them when they were right.
Thank you for the help, i may end up going with the stock carb for the time being.

What would be some good starting points with jetting considering i just have an aftermarket exhaust.

The part that could have potentially kicked my eddy to the curb is the umbrella seal that i cant find a replacement for.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:46 PM   #17939
zoro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsilver1007 View Post
Thank you for the help, i may end up going with the stock carb for the time being.

What would be some good starting points with jetting considering i just have an aftermarket exhaust.

The part that could have potentially kicked my eddy to the curb is the umbrella seal that i cant find a replacement for.

I have a FMF pipe, power bomb header and stock carb.

Main is a 175
Pilot is the 68S
Needle is B53E and set at middle (3rd) clip groove
Idle mixture is 1.25 turns out

I'm at sea level and will most likely move the needle to the next lean clip position (move needle down another clip position) just to try.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:25 PM   #17940
medisyn
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Well as I took the chain off my bike I counted the pins 108. So I am guessing thats the lenght I need?

Also I am getting really annoyed with everything I take off this bike I see the shoddy work of the last owner.

The front sprocket had like 1/8th inch of play on it forward and back. This is what the sprocket holder looked like.
http://i.imgur.com/pd3SaXN.jpg

This is what the shaft looks like.
http://i.imgur.com/MxJ4YEk.jpg

The reason I am replacing the chain is because I noticed a link was stiff/damaged. Part of the metal from one of the side plates was completely gone. Really lucky it never broke!

I think it's a result of the play in the CS sprocket. Guessing it hit the case saver which looked like it had almost no clearance for a 15t sprocket.

What could have caused this? Over tight chain? Using the wrong sprocket? I know the xr650l sprocket is thiner.

The question is when I get the new parts (I ordered a new sprocket, the plate to hold it and bolts) is if there will be play in it as well....
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