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Old 12-26-2013, 06:00 PM   #19036
mitchn06
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Joined: May 2012
Location: SoDak
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Yamabond, hondabond, three bond, all very very similar products. I bought Yamabond to seal my case halves this go around though. I'll use in my head cover as well.


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Old 12-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #19037
Trl Rdr
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lincoln, NE - The Tax me state
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Merry XR650R's and a Happy New Riding Year!!

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Old 12-26-2013, 10:42 PM   #19038
chopper77
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my piggy

Quote:
Originally Posted by skolios View Post
Holy Mazinga,

She's a beauty!
Any details on the build?
Hello fellas , thanks for the interest .
i will try to remember all my mods.
HRC piston , HRC cam , TM40 pumper , lightened flywheel with pickup moved , vortex ignition , head ported , staintune exhaust . 06 CRF front end , RG3 smart valves . revalved back shock .
All put together and tuned by Nik at Tekniks .
didnt happen all at once , had the staintune TM40 on and got 45hp and 55 tor , so it will be interesting to do a run with all the mods , i have read the safari XRs Nik built were getting 63hp at the wheels so it will be interesting. Super impressed with how smooth the thing is at high revs and how usable the power is. The rev limiter is set at 9500 and it will hit it , doesn't feel like its about to explode . Gear changes are at 7500 , top of the meat .
Future mods.
Monier tank , which you see ( Creedy caught me trialing it ) Carbon fibre radiator guards based on the CRF ones so she all lines up nicely .
Short kicked up MX rear guard i found in France .
Moriwaki exhaust ( highest flowing ). I searched the world for NOS , nothing , My mate Creedy found one that was crushed. all straight and polished now with a carbon fibre can . more top end i hope. The build quality on these things is exellent .
A 5L composite tank on the airbox side is also on the list to supplement the 24L and to add to the measly 8L of the monier tank.
My list of things to do could go on for a bit as this bike transforms into my outback tour er , a whole other direction . 24l acerbis , screen ect . It has already been to birdsville and back and a Flinders trip planned for next year
You got to love how versatile these machines are.
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:58 AM   #19039
johnyrrr
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: South Lyon Michigan
Oddometer: 205
What an awesome video, good job, cool ass tracker too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabrizio View Post
https://vimeo.com/82595547

Here is a video of a bike being ridden around Detroit's historic Packard Plant by a non professional rider on a non-closed course...

Special thanks to CW at Cycle Wizard in Frankenmuth, MI. This bike is running like a top thanks to him. Highly recommended expertise, parts, and personality.
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:43 PM   #19040
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 149
For the people using a Trailtech Vapor to monitor coolant temps, how are you doing it? Are you using the inline temp sensor they sell?
http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gau...er-temp-sensor

If so what size? 22mm?

EDIT: Never mind trailtechs website shows you everything you need!

medisyn screwed with this post 12-27-2013 at 12:53 PM
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:28 PM   #19041
Trl Rdr
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Location: Lincoln, NE - The Tax me state
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When I redid the hoses I taped a 1/8 pipe thread into the thermostat housing and moved the sensor there. Check the threads of the sensor, they have changed them over time.

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Old 12-27-2013, 02:06 PM   #19042
BikePilot
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa
Oddometer: 11,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bench Racer View Post
Our desert is pretty open and fast. When I ride in the trees its slows to narrow but mostly flowing/fun 1track. I feel the carb isn't super rich. I was wondering if it leaks when I'm moving. Brakes, bearings, chain and sprockets are fine. Well lubed. Except brakes of coarse.
I do ride hard with lots of open/close throttle use when on the trails. Roads and such get a more constant throttle.
I run 15/48. 1track the gearing allows 2nd to 3rd but is too tall. Open stuff we're usually at 60+ I would guess as an average. Long stretches get up to 80 pretty easy.
That sounds about like the desert riding I do on mine and I think mine is 15/48 or 15/47 so that's about the same as well. Riding hard will make it go down, but should still be close to 30 I'd think.

My guess is that the float level is too high or the seat is leaking when underway and bouncing around (on my CR250R I found, in the middle of a ride, that the o-ring around the seat was leaking badly. Luckily a chain x-ring from a spare master link fits perfectly!). It's also plausible that the stock carb is that much less efficient than the eddie as OldXR suggests. If you can find an Eddie carb grab one, they work astoundingly well--at least in terms of response and ease of starting. I suspect other options are more tuneable and can squeeze more power from the machine (FCR).
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:22 PM   #19043
Bench Racer
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: BEND Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
That sounds about like the desert riding I do on mine and I think mine is 15/48 or 15/47 so that's about the same as well. Riding hard will make it go down, but should still be close to 30 I'd think.

My guess is that the float level is too high or the seat is leaking when underway and bouncing around (on my CR250R I found, in the middle of a ride, that the o-ring around the seat was leaking badly. Luckily a chain x-ring from a spare master link fits perfectly!). It's also plausible that the stock carb is that much less efficient than the eddie as OldXR suggests. If you can find an Eddie carb grab one, they work astoundingly well--at least in terms of response and ease of starting. I suspect other options are more tuneable and can squeeze more power from the machine (FCR).
I would like the fcr but I'm not willing to heat my tank and chance a failure or putting a hole in it. I have just about saved enough for the TM40 kit but I might get a smoking deal on one through a family friend. We'll see after the new year.
I agree that something like the float or seat is screwy. What would I need to do to fix the seat issue?
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Old 12-27-2013, 10:51 PM   #19044
lemanster
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Oddometer: 86
Hey guys, I've been running a TM40 for a couple years now, and its run fantastic, up until a few months ago, I had the bike drop on a nice sandy uphill, the drop was insignificant, but I noticed afterward fuel occasionally coming out of the overflow when the bike was not running, more-so when the bike was moved around while the bike wasn't running. bike ran great other than this.

Well, a month ago the bike began wanting to stall after quick, hard whoop sections, or after launching the bike in the air. It would want to stall for a second or two, then would be fine after that if I kept throttling it, and if it did stall, it usually fired right back up. Then, recently it would begin stalling when not up to operating temp. I would hear a cough or a sneeze as the bike stalled. Once up to operating temp, the bike was fine, ran great, no stalling, but fuel dripping from the overflow still.

Sounded to me like a float issue, so I pulled the carb, cleaned it, shot carb cleaner thru everything several times, I adjusted the float, it was slightly off (Sudco manual recommended around 18mm from base of carb when it comes in contact with actuator, mine was at 21mm) so I set it at 18. Bike seemed to run better, didnt want to stall when cold either, (but the weather was warmer) I noticed the bike still pissed a little fuel when it was sitting, and when i would rock the bike side to side on the kickstand, it would piss a little more.

A couple days later, I go out to fire up the bike, it fires up without issue, runs for a minute or two, then i get the sneeze then die again. It did this a couple more times until it was up to operating temp. then it ran fine after that.

Any other ideas fellas? Thanks
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Old 12-27-2013, 10:55 PM   #19045
cognugget
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Washington State
Oddometer: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemanster View Post
Hey guys, I've been running a TM40 for a couple years now, and its run fantastic, up until a few months ago, I had the bike drop on a nice sandy uphill, the drop was insignificant, but I noticed afterward fuel occasionally coming out of the overflow when the bike was not running, more-so when the bike was moved around while the bike wasn't running. bike ran great other than this.

Well, a month ago the bike began wanting to stall after quick, hard whoop sections, or after launching the bike in the air. It would want to stall for a second or two, then would be fine after that if I kept throttling it, and if it did stall, it usually fired right back up. Then, recently it would begin stalling when not up to operating temp. I would hear a cough or a sneeze as the bike stalled. Once up to operating temp, the bike was fine, ran great, no stalling, but fuel dripping from the overflow still.

Sounded to me like a float issue, so I pulled the carb, cleaned it, shot carb cleaner thru everything several times, I adjusted the float, it was slightly off (Sudco manual recommended around 18mm from base of carb when it comes in contact with actuator, mine was at 21mm) so I set it at 18. Bike seemed to run better, didnt want to stall when cold either, (but the weather was warmer) I noticed the bike still pissed a little fuel when it was sitting, and when i would rock the bike side to side on the kickstand, it would piss a little more.

A couple days later, I go out to fire up the bike, it fires up without issue, runs for a minute or two, then i get the sneeze then die again. It did this a couple more times until it was up to operating temp. then it ran fine after that.

Any other ideas fellas? Thanks
Check the rubber seal in the petcock. They like to rot and clog up the float needle.

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Old 12-28-2013, 12:02 AM   #19046
Jayrod1318
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Here and there and stuff.
Oddometer: 1,619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trl Rdr View Post
When I redid the hoses I taped a 1/8 pipe thread into the thermostat housing and moved the sensor there. Check the threads of the sensor, they have changed them over time.

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The sensor that came with my inline rad fitting was British pipe thread. I couldn't find a tap anywhere so I a called trail tech and they sent me the smaller size metric threaded sensor for a few bucks.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:07 AM   #19047
mitchn06
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Joined: May 2012
Location: SoDak
Oddometer: 554
Question for anybody that has had the cases split. After installing the transmission, I could not get it to shift gears using the shift lever, but I could get it to operate fine by grabbing the shift cam, this was all done with the two halves dry fitted. Gears rotate smoothly and all dog ears correctly placed. Is this due to the fact that I don't have the gearshift cam and spring thing installed? I'm sure it is.


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Old 12-28-2013, 08:01 AM   #19048
BikePilot
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa
Oddometer: 11,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bench Racer View Post
I would like the fcr but I'm not willing to heat my tank and chance a failure or putting a hole in it. I have just about saved enough for the TM40 kit but I might get a smoking deal on one through a family friend. We'll see after the new year.
I agree that something like the float or seat is screwy. What would I need to do to fix the seat issue?
I don't know for the seat, never had a stock XRR carb apart. Most of the time they are brass and wedged into the carb body, usually sealed by an o-ring, sometimes just threaded. I would probably just toss in a new needle and seat to be safe, they are not typically expensive. Make sure to replace whatever seals the seat to the carb body (if it's an o-ring type not a threaded one). Then set the float level carefully when it all goes back together and see what you've got.
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Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038
Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:05 AM   #19049
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: County Lockup, NM
Oddometer: 6,043
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Question for anybody that has had the cases split. After installing the transmission, I could not get it to shift gears using the shift lever, but I could get it to operate fine by grabbing the shift cam, this was all done with the two halves dry fitted. Gears rotate smoothly and all dog ears correctly placed. Is this due to the fact that I don't have the gearshift cam and spring thing installed? I'm sure it is.


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Rotating the shift drum as you turn the main shaft is sufficient to check the operation. Of course go through all the gears and make sure it's free moving throughout it's range and make sure it's actually engaged in each gear. It can be hard to rotate the drum with the detent installed, if you remove the detent spring and install the detent, you'll be able to determine the stop points for each gear. The shifter mechanism needs most all it's parts installed to work correctly, you are getting the same thing by rotating the drum, just make sure it stops at the correct places for each gear.
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:06 AM   #19050
mitchn06
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Joined: May 2012
Location: SoDak
Oddometer: 554
Awesome. Thanks ridefreak. Because i already sealed them up! Haha


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