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Old 12-27-2013, 10:55 PM   #19051
cognugget
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Washington State
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemanster View Post
Hey guys, I've been running a TM40 for a couple years now, and its run fantastic, up until a few months ago, I had the bike drop on a nice sandy uphill, the drop was insignificant, but I noticed afterward fuel occasionally coming out of the overflow when the bike was not running, more-so when the bike was moved around while the bike wasn't running. bike ran great other than this.

Well, a month ago the bike began wanting to stall after quick, hard whoop sections, or after launching the bike in the air. It would want to stall for a second or two, then would be fine after that if I kept throttling it, and if it did stall, it usually fired right back up. Then, recently it would begin stalling when not up to operating temp. I would hear a cough or a sneeze as the bike stalled. Once up to operating temp, the bike was fine, ran great, no stalling, but fuel dripping from the overflow still.

Sounded to me like a float issue, so I pulled the carb, cleaned it, shot carb cleaner thru everything several times, I adjusted the float, it was slightly off (Sudco manual recommended around 18mm from base of carb when it comes in contact with actuator, mine was at 21mm) so I set it at 18. Bike seemed to run better, didnt want to stall when cold either, (but the weather was warmer) I noticed the bike still pissed a little fuel when it was sitting, and when i would rock the bike side to side on the kickstand, it would piss a little more.

A couple days later, I go out to fire up the bike, it fires up without issue, runs for a minute or two, then i get the sneeze then die again. It did this a couple more times until it was up to operating temp. then it ran fine after that.

Any other ideas fellas? Thanks
Check the rubber seal in the petcock. They like to rot and clog up the float needle.

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Old 12-28-2013, 12:02 AM   #19052
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Originally Posted by Trl Rdr View Post
When I redid the hoses I taped a 1/8 pipe thread into the thermostat housing and moved the sensor there. Check the threads of the sensor, they have changed them over time.

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The sensor that came with my inline rad fitting was British pipe thread. I couldn't find a tap anywhere so I a called trail tech and they sent me the smaller size metric threaded sensor for a few bucks.
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Old 12-28-2013, 12:07 AM   #19053
mitchn06
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Question for anybody that has had the cases split. After installing the transmission, I could not get it to shift gears using the shift lever, but I could get it to operate fine by grabbing the shift cam, this was all done with the two halves dry fitted. Gears rotate smoothly and all dog ears correctly placed. Is this due to the fact that I don't have the gearshift cam and spring thing installed? I'm sure it is.


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Old 12-28-2013, 08:01 AM   #19054
BikePilot
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Originally Posted by Bench Racer View Post
I would like the fcr but I'm not willing to heat my tank and chance a failure or putting a hole in it. I have just about saved enough for the TM40 kit but I might get a smoking deal on one through a family friend. We'll see after the new year.
I agree that something like the float or seat is screwy. What would I need to do to fix the seat issue?
I don't know for the seat, never had a stock XRR carb apart. Most of the time they are brass and wedged into the carb body, usually sealed by an o-ring, sometimes just threaded. I would probably just toss in a new needle and seat to be safe, they are not typically expensive. Make sure to replace whatever seals the seat to the carb body (if it's an o-ring type not a threaded one). Then set the float level carefully when it all goes back together and see what you've got.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:05 AM   #19055
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
Question for anybody that has had the cases split. After installing the transmission, I could not get it to shift gears using the shift lever, but I could get it to operate fine by grabbing the shift cam, this was all done with the two halves dry fitted. Gears rotate smoothly and all dog ears correctly placed. Is this due to the fact that I don't have the gearshift cam and spring thing installed? I'm sure it is.


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Rotating the shift drum as you turn the main shaft is sufficient to check the operation. Of course go through all the gears and make sure it's free moving throughout it's range and make sure it's actually engaged in each gear. It can be hard to rotate the drum with the detent installed, if you remove the detent spring and install the detent, you'll be able to determine the stop points for each gear. The shifter mechanism needs most all it's parts installed to work correctly, you are getting the same thing by rotating the drum, just make sure it stops at the correct places for each gear.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:06 AM   #19056
mitchn06
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Awesome. Thanks ridefreak. Because i already sealed them up! Haha


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Old 12-28-2013, 03:45 PM   #19057
mitchn06
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ok, i'm pissed, i broke my outer clutch basket trying to torque the nut on the inner. anybody got a spare basket, or know of a clutch tool so this doesn't happen again.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:01 PM   #19058
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Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
ok, i'm pissed, i broke my outer clutch basket trying to torque the nut on the inner. anybody got a spare basket, or know of a clutch tool so this doesn't happen again.
I have the one I just removed from my XR, it's being replaced with a Hinson. It's got some grooves worn in it and was the reason for the upgrade. Let me know if your interested. I can send some pics.

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Old 12-28-2013, 06:13 PM   #19059
mitchn06
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Originally Posted by Toaliosis View Post
I have the one I just removed from my XR, it's being replaced with a Hinson. It's got some grooves worn in it and was the reason for the upgrade. Let me know if your interested. I can send some pics.

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Well I don't want to replace it with a crap one if I can get a new one for 160, but if it isn't too bad and the price is right. I'll pm u.


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Old 12-28-2013, 06:30 PM   #19060
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Put a penny in the gear teeth. Somewhere I have a tool. Used a battery impact last time on the nut.

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Old 12-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #19061
mitchn06
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Originally Posted by Trl Rdr View Post
Put a penny in the gear teeth. Somewhere I have a tool. Used a battery impact last time on the nut.

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The inner clutch hub is independent of the outer basket. I was trying to torque down the clutch hub nut, which is connected to the primary transmission shaft. Basically you need to mate a friction plate with a steel plate and then do the penny thing. I did it with a screwdriver and two vise grips instead. Thus my $160 mistake. I was wondering though how close the 650r and 650l baskets are. Ebc makes a nice looking clutch tool, but they forgot to make one for the 650r.



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Old 12-28-2013, 07:47 PM   #19062
slickwill
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Has anyone measured various head gaskets or base gaskets and found one that's thicker than stock? I need to gain a couple thousandths extra clearance between the piston and head due to my engine being rebuilt one too many times.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:54 PM   #19063
Trl Rdr
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I know the 650R has rubber cushions in the gear on the back of the clutch whereas the 650L as cush drive in the rear hub.

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Old 12-28-2013, 07:54 PM   #19064
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchn06 View Post
The inner clutch hub is independent of the outer basket. I was trying to torque down the clutch hub nut, which is connected to the primary transmission shaft. Basically you need to mate a friction plate with a steel plate and then do the penny thing. I did it with a screwdriver and two vise grips instead. Thus my $160 mistake. I was wondering though how close the 650r and 650l baskets are. Ebc makes a nice looking clutch tool, but they forgot to make one for the 650r.



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If you have an old worn out clutch just pop rivet two friction plates to a steel plate and you have a free clutch holding tool. Start out by drilling three holes, 120 deg. apart into one friction plate. Slide into place in the clutch and mark the holes you drilled on the steel plate already installed. Remove and drill. Repeat with the second friction plate. Rivet the three plates together. Done.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #19065
mitchn06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
If you have an old worn out clutch just pop rivet two friction plates to a steel plate and you have a free clutch holding tool. Start out by drilling three holes, 120 deg. apart into one friction plate. Slide into place in the clutch and mark the holes you drilled on the steel plate already installed. Remove and drill. Repeat with the second friction plate. Rivet the three plates together. Done.

That's what I will be doing once I get my new basket more than likely.


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