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Old 01-29-2010, 11:36 AM   #2851
KASUYAHO
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Aussie Land
Oddometer: 3,320
Valve adjustment:

What i find is best is to not use the kick starter or rear wheel to turn the crank.

Take the stator cover off and hold it up and out of the way with a bit of wire.
Take out the spark plug.
Then use a 17mm ring spanner or socket and t bar and rotatate the crank
anti clockwise at the flywheel which is under the stator cover.

There is a "T" stamped onto the flywheel, top dead centre is when that is lined up to the point inside the case of the flywheel.

Remove the valve inspection covers.

Rotate the crank, i normally rotate the crank more than 2 times.

Aline the "T" with the point, and then see if the rockers move?
The intakes on these bikes tighten up so check both intake and exhaust.

Or place a screw driver carefully down the spark plug hole to see if the piston is on top dead centre.

If unsure then rotate the crank 360 degrees and check rockers and or screw down the spark plug hole.

If you go past the timing mark ie: "T" aline to point on case.
Which is at 12 oclock.
Never turn the motor back wards to line them up.
Go around again 2 more rotations to line them up.

Rotating the motor in reverse will activate the auto decomp and the clearances when checked will not be right.

Check to see if there is play in the manual decomp cable,
as if there is not play then that will effect the valve clearance when there being checked.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:50 AM   #2852
PeteN95
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Muk, WA
Oddometer: 2,253
While my seat is being redone by Renazco, I took time to install the Rekluse Z-start brake kit last night. This moves the rear brake master cylinder from the right foot to the left handle bar and fills the empty space where my clutch lever used to be (Rekluse auto clutch). It's a very nice kit with a Magura adjustable MC, braided steel line, good instructions, and even a giant syringe to back bleed the new line.

I did have to move the BD brake light switch from the old MC to the front MC, since the foot MC is gone and the new Magura had different threads. But the front brake is probably a better place anyway, since I use it more often. The rear hand brake takes some getting used to, but it is really nice for dirt or for backing it in Supermoto style on pavement to the right. It is also really nice on steep, technical downhills where you can both brakes on and both feet down. Not a bad deal for $199 list.
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:15 PM   #2853
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: County Lockup, NM
Oddometer: 4,966
Quote:
Originally Posted by bongodave
Re: Valve adjustment.

I just take off the valve covers (you have to, anyway) and watch the intake valves as I crank it. When they go down, then come back up, you're on the compression stroke. Line up the marks, and voila! TDC.
+1

It's not that big of deal, I never pull the stator cover off or mess with the rear wheel. as Bongodave pointed out, open the valve covers and crank the motor over and the compression stroke will be obvious. When the intake valve is partially open on the compression stroke, I adjust the exh. When the exh is fully open I adjust the intake, take all of 15 min (it actually takes longer to remove the tank and shrouds than to do the adjustment). Zero valve noise. First time I did it, I pulled the stator cover off and checked them per spec following this method and they were right on the money.
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Old 01-29-2010, 06:30 PM   #2854
bongodave
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Fabulous Eerie, Indiana!
Oddometer: 36,588
The XR motor is just too good to give up. What do you think of these?


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Old 01-29-2010, 06:37 PM   #2855
Scott39
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Denver, Co.
Oddometer: 885
Quote:
Originally Posted by bongodave
The XR motor is just too good to give up. What do you think of these?


Those would both be cool to try out, if Honda would ever bulid one.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:06 PM   #2856
Flyin Phil
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: SouthWestern BC
Oddometer: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by bongodave
The XR motor is just too good to give up. What do you think of these?


Where's the adventure model? full 12" travel, high output stator, decent subframe, big tank, lights that threated to set dry grass on fire?

I like the factory street legal idea, but I'd like something more (extended) dirt oriented, personally.

Nice pics though, well done if you were the one who put them together. Hard to tell from this angle, but are those wide ratio transmissions?
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:21 PM   #2857
river251
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Oddometer: 158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyin Phil
Thanks, glad they're appreciated. It's been an amazingly mild winter here for the most part. I have access to a DSLR but found I'd take about 4 pics from one stop in an entire day, so now I have a panasonic/lumix zs1 in my jacket pocket. For me, a half decent point and shoot takes better pics than an slr that never makes it out of the case. I have too much fun riding to stop, take the gloves off, helmet off, open bags etc to take a picture. If it wasn't for the price difference, I'd have a Lumix LX3 in that pocket, but hey.
Agreed. Canon S3 for me.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:45 PM   #2858
Fluffycat
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Nelson
Oddometer: 123
The motor is to good to give up...Honda use it in one of their quads, slightly different head. Just one exhaust outlet and button start. Would bolt straight on to an XR, now there is a thought.
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Old 01-30-2010, 01:29 AM   #2859
Not for Highway Use
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Canowindra, NSW, Australia
Oddometer: 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by bongodave
The XR motor is just too good to give up. What do you think of these?


One of each please. You would have to call them "eXterminatoR"s not Dommies
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:48 AM   #2860
joenuclear
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood
Killer batt box Chris. Put them in the vendor section.

Joe
+1
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:09 PM   #2861
Flyin Phil
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: SouthWestern BC
Oddometer: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluffycat
The motor is to good to give up...Honda use it in one of their quads, slightly different head. Just one exhaust outlet and button start. Would bolt straight on to an XR, now there is a thought.
And have a bike with reverse

You sure about that? I read something about the countershaft being inset, kind of behind the engine to get it closer to the centerline for running to the rear axle - since it's IRS if memory serves.

I have heard of people swapping cases and covers or some such to gain the e-start though. I searched high and low for tranny ratios to see if one could swap over, or mix and match, to make a wider ratio tranny for the 650, but I never found anything. I wish I could find an online copy of a fsm for the quad. They mentioned special gear ratios for the sport quad application.
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:53 PM   #2862
ryanwilliamcantrell
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Oddometer: 3,818
Wheel Bearings

Hi folks,

I'm going to replace my wheel bearings this evening, but can't find the dimensions for how far I inset the wheel bearings when installing the new ones. Anyone know where I can find this info?


Thanks,

RWC
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:26 PM   #2863
Michelangelo
2 wheel rider...anytime..
 
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Rocky Mountain West
Oddometer: 1,566
2002 XR650R
Help wiring DRC LED tail light needed!
My new LED taillight has 3 wires: black, red and a yellow.
My rear brake light switch has 2 wires: black and red.
My first thought is hook up the black to black and red to red. Then hook up the yellow to the green (power?) connector underneath the seat.
Can someone confirm this please?
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:57 PM   #2864
thouk
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Lincoln, Ne my hometown, Where I'm freezin
Oddometer: 178
Your help Michelangelo

Michelangelo and Others,
To hook it up correctly this is the way I would do it. First thing you need to do is figure out which color is the running and which is the brake light wire. Take and hook the negative up to the black from a twelve volt battery. Then attach the positive to first the yellow and look at the brightness then do the same for the red. Obviously the dimmer of the two is the running light. You need to attach 12 volts to this wire, which ever wire had the dimmer light output. Now here is the other part. Run another wire to the brake switch. It really doesn't matter whether you hook it up to the black or red, since it is a switch. Me being anal I would hook it up to the red first. Now continue the wire from the black to the other wire on the brake light. So let me give you an example. Say on the brake light the yellow is the running light. Run a wire to the brake light from the switched power wire to the yellow wire. Then the black needs to go back to your battery ground. Now also take another wire from switched power wire and run it to the red wire on your brake light switch. Connect a wire to the black wire on the brake light switch back to the red wire. This should complete the wiring for the brake light. I hope that helps. Tony
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Old 01-30-2010, 04:33 PM   #2865
Not for Highway Use
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Canowindra, NSW, Australia
Oddometer: 983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanwilliamcantrell
Hi folks,

I'm going to replace my wheel bearings this evening, but can't find the dimensions for how far I inset the wheel bearings when installing the new ones. Anyone know where I can find this info?


Thanks,

RWC
Front or rear?

I just put them in the same depth as the old ones. Usually they "seat" themselves.
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