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Old 02-23-2011, 10:46 AM   #7516
BHW
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
Does anyone know if a XR400 rear wheel can be fitted to the XR650R? I know the CRF450X can be done with a different bearing set and a little shaving of the axle spacers. I'm looking for a spare rear but even used is damn expensive. I even looked into the Warp 9's, but the reviews were mixed. Didn't seem all that good for the money.

-Joe
I'm quite happy with my Warp 9.


A lot of the complaints, came from people who threw them on and did not follow the instructions to check and tighten the spokes, etc for the first few rides.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:54 AM   #7517
backdoc
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Well, I finally got the re-build complete on my piggy. After 2 1/2 months of it sitting quietly in the garage, it fired up after 3 good kicks. The sound of music to my ears. I still have a few extra things to get it completely done, ie. gold anodized Unabiker radiator shrouds will be here thursday, blue Pro Factory Hoses in hand, and new thermostat for trail tech will be here monday. I finally have some finished pics to post.
Me and my new re-born baby

new rear end with plates and blinkers installed


my 5 year old sons favorite toy's. got it running this weekend with new carb and gas tank

Thanks Garthe for putting the new front rotor in my head

I love the blue daystar 69's on the front.

So now its time to get a few rides in to make sure that everything is nice and tight. I must say thanks to the collective for answering all my questions and helping out. I'll post a few pics with new radiator equipment when i get it done.
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backdoc screwed with this post 02-23-2011 at 11:00 AM Reason: duplicate pic
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:55 PM   #7518
Coastie3202
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Location: Alamogordo, New Mexico
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Nice work. Now let the fun begin.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:57 PM   #7519
Coastie3202
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Location: Alamogordo, New Mexico
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Stock Exhaust

When I had my XR400 I took a wire brush and took all of the black paint off the can. Looked good, and held up good. I live in the desert, so rust is not an issue.

Anyone done that to their stock BRP exhaust can?
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:38 PM   #7520
jm-2008
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[QUOTE=5hortbus;15259714]Appreciate the help JM.

Was psyched to get it back together, and needless to say, that was a roadblock to the process.

I have also completed the Borynack "cuz I'm in here" carb mods of plugging the Air Jet Cutoff Valve, and removing the choke flap.
Put a solid flap on my original carb for peace of mind, some owners lean the bike on its side to prime it via carby flooding a little, this may help with starting.

Is there anything I need to be worried about moving forward?
I'm at about 700'
-68s Pilot
-175 Main
-B53e needle (3rd Clip position)
Should be in the ballpark, mine ran well with similar settings up to and around 3000feet (stock air box cover-no holes and stock pipe - uncorked)

-From what the PO told me, I have a Big Gun header and Pipe.
The big gun header will likely have some effect but as to how much and where in the rev/throttle range I cannot say, other inmates may be able to assist.
Other uncorking has been completed. The airbox is still in its original form.

Previously, the bike bogged on accel
Not unusual for a thumper with non pumper carby, the reasons are well documented here however this usually happens if/when the throttle is snapped open from (or near) the idle position if when trying to loft the front end over logs etc.
That said it depends on how and what conditions you ride, as an older (fossil age) rider my riding is not quite so frenetic and the stock carby worked well enough for most of my riding (have since fitted a TM40 for a little more zest) and it was very reliable. and had a stumble a few seconds into WOT.
WOT stumble sounds like a jetting size issue, if you need some guidance on set up I will try and source some instructions for you.

I have read carb tuning threads ad nauseum, but this is my first time tinkering with what may as well be the human brain to me. So if there's anything glaring, let me know.

Oh, one other thing: The pilot screw spring, o-ring, and washer wouldn't come out of the carb when I disassembled. Reason for concern? The screw came out, but everything else stayed put. If the spring and O-ring stayed put and no air leaks past I probably would not be too concerned.
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:14 PM   #7521
Garthe
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It always feels good to help someone else spend money...very nice bike.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:11 PM   #7522
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdoc View Post
...Pro Factory Hoses in hand, and new thermostat for trail tech will be here monday...
When you install the new hoses and temp sensor, try this: instead of cutting your hoses to install the temp sensor housing inline, drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole (double-check to make sure that's the right size) in the flat boss on the side of the factory thermostat housing. Makes for a much cleaner installation.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:58 PM   #7523
TourPros
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Question

Anyone here know how much exhaust tape it takes to wrap the pipe? I want o order it but not sure how much so before I go out there with strips of something and mock it up I figured chances are high that someone here would know the answer.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:12 PM   #7524
jesusgatos
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Not what you're asking, but I would avoid using insulating tape on your exhaust if at all possible. The water and muck soaks into it and then the heat = bad news. Ruined a custom-made pipe like that pretty quickly.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:13 PM   #7525
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TourPros View Post
Anyone here know how much exhaust tape it takes to wrap the pipe? I want o order it but not sure how much so before I go out there with strips of something and mock it up I figured chances are high that someone here would know the answer.
Don't do it...
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:48 PM   #7526
Capt. Egregious
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Location: Where the sewer meets the sea, Edmonds Wa
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love the elephant ears. Sucks bout the motor. My buddy's all ways rag on me for using em but my hands are toasty.

[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:53 PM   #7527
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TourPros View Post
Anyone here know how much exhaust tape it takes to wrap the pipe? I want o order it but not sure how much so before I go out there with strips of something and mock it up I figured chances are high that someone here would know the answer.
I used about two packs of the 20 foot lengths, but had about 10 feet left over.

Lots of people will tell you not to do it, I have done it twice now and love it. No more burnt pants, and it keeps everything cool(er) but I live in the desert.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gvthnks View Post
hope I didn't miss it, but do you have pics of this? Thanks

For the guy who asked about the sight tube this is the best picture I have of it. I love it, I check my oil constantly now, sometimes while I'm running down the road.



And just for the hell of it I will share a couple pictures I haven't shared yet.



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Old 02-23-2011, 10:44 PM   #7528
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by TourPros View Post
Anyone here know how much exhaust tape it takes to wrap the pipe? I want o order it but not sure how much so before I go out there with strips of something and mock it up I figured chances are high that someone here would know the answer.
Ceramic coat it...works well, quite cheap and lasts forever.

Black on inside, "Shine" on outside..brings the temps way down, huge advantage as the headers wraps the radiators, and with Ceramic coating, the temps come down drastically.

Riding and stopping, I can actually grab my headers with bare hand within minutes.

What mine looks like after 15 000km...the obvious other advantages is that it never looks rusted.

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Old 02-24-2011, 02:35 AM   #7529
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_hulkamaniac View Post
Big Dead Piggy.
That a bit of bad luck there mate.

Broke right at the head of the valve?

The exhaust valve on the BRP is a 2 piece valve and welded half up the stem.
The bottom half is non magnetic / stainless, the top half is magnetic.

Stainless is brittle so if the valve is bent from hitting the piston it should be changed out,
other material valves can be straightened which i would not do anyway.

The main reason why valves break off under the head of the valve is from valve float.
Valve float over a period of time, the valve hammers the valve seat too,
and sometimes valve resession happens from this too.
And valve clearences will be noticed to increase.

If it was i would would be checking the valve spring pressures too.

KASUYAHO screwed with this post 02-25-2011 at 10:15 PM
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:46 PM   #7530
RedBirdStation
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Indiana
Oddometer: 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by backdoc View Post
Well, I finally got the re-build complete on my piggy. After 2 1/2 months of it sitting quietly in the garage, it fired up after 3 good kicks. The sound of music to my ears. I still have a few extra things to get it completely done, ie. gold anodized Unabiker radiator shrouds will be here thursday, blue Pro Factory Hoses in hand, and new thermostat for trail tech will be here monday. I finally have some finished pics to post.
Me and my new re-born baby
Wow..

Complete different animal from what I knew it as.

Good Job
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