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Old 04-23-2009, 11:26 PM   #796
Road Hog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadhog2
does anyone know what the allen screw on the bottom of the oil pump is for on the 02 xr650r? looking at the bike when it's put together just to the right bottom of the pump? mine leaks a little but is turned in all the way?
anyone...anyone...
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Old 04-23-2009, 11:34 PM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOSCERVASAS
U can get all of these from www.mettec.com, talk to Richard, and tell him I sent you there from the ADV board, and you should get the Racer discount.

Here is part of the parts list:


2002 XR650R4/13/2009
FRONT END KIT
PART NUMBERQTYLOCATIONINDIV. RETAIL
T4HFM6-10X101Upper Brake Cable Mount$12.39
T4HFM6-10X122Speedometer Bracket$12.66
T4HFM6-10X152Brake Line Mount $12.93
M6AH-14Rotor Bolts $9.84
T4HFM6-10X209Lower Brake Line Cable, Brake And $13.20
Clutch Lever Mounts, Front Fender
NUTHFM6-101Lower Brake Line Cable $7.48
FWM6-224Front Fender$1.99
NUTHFM6-104Axle Pinch Nuts$7.48
T4HFM8-12X302Brake Caliper Mounts $15.66
T4HFM8-12X354Handle Bar Mounts$16.19
T4HFM8-12X408Upper And Lower Tripple Clamps$16.30
RETAIL$493.57
RACER DISCOUNT$444.20


do ya know what the total weight loss is if yago crazy and buy all. i looked aroung that site and ?????
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Old 04-24-2009, 05:29 AM   #798
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Eek Not much

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadhog2
do ya know what the total weight loss is if yago crazy and buy all. i looked aroung that site and ?????
The axles are 1 lb each, after that it is about 1 lb per $500. Not a lot, but anything off the BRP is better that nothing.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:13 AM   #799
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so really you would need a light weight strong frame and swing arm. and then maybe you wood see 250 stock dry weight? sounds pricey
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:13 PM   #800
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Precision Concepts is selling Ti rear springs for $250 USD each.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:44 PM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hosebag
Need some help over here
Put the XRR away for the winter.
Brought it out, set the valves, cleaned and oiled the air filter, new spark plug and fresh gas.

Fired it up in the laneway, idled for a minute then out on the street to do a short turn around. Back in the laneway, idled for a minute then out to the street where I cracked the throttle to wheelie. Instead of a wheelie, it stalled.

It will not start now, just the odd backfire.

Have rechecked-
-all connections from stator to harness.
-valve clearance
-throttle setting
-float bowl

I'm going to put another new plug in, as the new one I installed had been rattling around in my tool kit last trip to Baja.

Ideas??

Well......IT'S RUNNING!!!!!

Thanks to perseverance and my buddy Cameron and Jim's tireless efforts!!

It is at this juncture that I must award myself the most supreme bonehead award....


When I did the post Baja service, I pulled out the air filter and cleaned out the compartment. While I was doing this, to be on the safe side and prevent anything getting carb side, I stuck a hand towel into the airbox and.....Yup, you guessed it....guess who forgot all about that lil ole towel?? It allowed the bike to start once, then choke itself.

So....I now know that all the wiring and electrical components are 100%, I know the valves are spot on and the carb is spotless.

Thanks to my buddies and to you guys for your advice.

Time for a shakedown or two, then off to Moab.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:47 PM   #802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hosebag
Well......IT'S RUNNING!!!!!

Thanks to perseverance and my buddy Cameron and Jim's tireless efforts!!

It is at this juncture that I must award myself the most supreme bonehead award....


When I did the post Baja service, I pulled out the air filter and cleaned out the compartment. While I was doing this, to be on the safe side and prevent anything getting carb side, I stuck a hand towel into the airbox and.....Yup, you guessed it....guess who forgot all about that lil ole towel?? It allowed the bike to start once, then choke itself.

So....I now know that all the wiring and electrical components are 100%, I know the valves are spot on and the carb is spotless.

Thanks to my buddies and to you guys for your advice.

Time for a shakedown or two, then off to Moab.
It's not a big deal. If you're a surgeon, however, take a look around before you sew 'em up!
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Old 04-24-2009, 09:17 PM   #803
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So I have the bike apart and am running through some basic maintenance to familiarize myself with her.

When checking the valves, should the feeler gauge slide all the way between the adjuster and valve with just a little resistance? I can't get any size feeler to slide between the adjuster and valve at all. I slide them around the outside, but not through the middle.

I'm a newb at this so maybe I'm missing something completely, or just have no clue what I'm doing. I rotated the crank counterclockwise twice like the book says and am pretty sure I'm at TDC with the mark and "T" lined up.

Any tips?

**Edit**

They really were too tight. I have the intake valves adjusted to spec and will go back out to conquer the exhaust valves. I noticed that the bike seemed to be running hot and getting hot rather quick. Could the valves being too tight have led to the bike running hot?
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Cmayer31 screwed with this post 04-24-2009 at 10:03 PM
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:38 PM   #804
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Yeah the exhaust valves can be a pain in the RRR's.
The gauge should have a bit of drag when pulled through the gap.
H.T.H.
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Old 04-24-2009, 11:03 PM   #805
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Well, I got the valves as close as possible, and put the bigger tank on. Unfortunately the petcock on the big tank has a major sealing issue. It holds gas back in the off position, but spews gas all over in the reserve or on position. I'm really not thrilled about having to take it all off again, but oh well.

Hopefully there's a seal kit for the petcock, or that my local dealer stocks them for the IMS tanks. Are the petcocks all the same between stock tanks and after market tanks?
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:13 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOT DAMN!


What size is that tank? It's a clarke right?
Thanks,
Andrew
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Old 04-25-2009, 02:05 AM   #807
badcooky
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Sweet wine,that looks the bomb.
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The old trail bike that all modern trail bikes are judged by.
It's funny cause it's true!.
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Old 04-25-2009, 04:25 AM   #808
Hosebag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmayer31
So I have the bike apart and am running through some basic maintenance to familiarize myself with her.

When checking the valves, should the feeler gauge slide all the way between the adjuster and valve with just a little resistance? I can't get any size feeler to slide between the adjuster and valve at all. I slide them around the outside, but not through the middle.

I'm a newb at this so maybe I'm missing something completely, or just have no clue what I'm doing. I rotated the crank counterclockwise twice like the book says and am pretty sure I'm at TDC with the mark and "T" lined up.

Any tips?

**Edit**

They really were too tight. I have the intake valves adjusted to spec and will go back out to conquer the exhaust valves. I noticed that the bike seemed to be running hot and getting hot rather quick. Could the valves being too tight have led to the bike running hot?
The feeler should slide through with some noticeable drag.

Make sure you're dead on with the timing marks, as even a little bit off will make a difference. You can also verify your TDC by pulling the plug and/or checking for 'some' freeplay at the adjusters.
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Old 04-25-2009, 05:55 AM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by af300e
What size is that tank? It's a clarke right?
Thanks,
Andrew
Looks to be the Clarke 4.3.
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:15 AM   #810
af300e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husky123
Looks to be the Clarke 4.3.
Thanks!

Just added a 650r to the stable. I intend it more as DS and commuter than a trail bike. I have a yz250f for those shenanigans.

Anyway, 4.3 should give me a nice range.
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