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Old 04-18-2011, 07:01 PM   #8251
pwrtrippin
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Big John for the disk brake guard I'd go with the Scotts one piece like this.
Can get it locally too.

http://www.brpmoto.com/products?page...ategory_id=351
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:10 PM   #8252
Big_John
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
I'd be carefull with your adjustments there. Often you cannot use the entire threaded area of a shock. It may be there, but the limit of shock preload is very little. I think 1cm. You also run the risk of the spring going solid state (coils touching eachother) transfering the force to the threaded adjusters which could cause a very nasty accident if they were to let go.

If you are in the 11.5kg range, there's no solution other then new springs front and rear.

I would look into this before riding that bike again. As you can see, you have preloaded that spring by over an inch!

I understand and you make some very important points.. I have adjusted the spring to where it behaves exactly as "Race Adjustments" suggest......3" of sag with the rider. At the setting I have it at, I sag exactly 3.5".

As for the springs touching at full compression......I don't think it will happen. I have measured it carefully.

You are probably 100% correct.....I will probably go to the new springs.

.
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:25 PM   #8253
RallyMoto
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I just went through the same issue. I ended up putting high temp silicone at all the joints (allows them to slip easily while still wet), making sure everything was very loose, and gently prying up off the clutch cover and moving the left head tube around a little while it was plugged in to the exhaust port. I actually have a decent amount of clearance now and no rubbing or binding anywhere. Took longer than I thought or wanted, but glad I took the time. If it's bound, as in you have to pry to get the rear mounting points to line up, you'll end up with cracks at the welds sooner than later.

Also worth getting the header ceramic coated. Gets the heat away from you, the radiators and the engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StandupWI View Post
Has anyone had any issues mounting with the FMF Power Bomb header? I just mounted mine up with a White Bros E-Series Pipe. It is extremely close the clutch cover area and when I start up the engine it actually hits a little. Just wondering if I need to take the exhaust off and try to re-adjust it or if something was made wrong.
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:40 PM   #8254
Blakebird
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Location: Parker, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StandupWI View Post
Has anyone had any issues mounting with the FMF Power Bomb header? I just mounted mine up with a White Bros E-Series Pipe. It is extremely close the clutch cover area and when I start up the engine it actually hits a little. Just wondering if I need to take the exhaust off and try to re-adjust it or if something was made wrong.
I've had the PowerBomb on my XR628 and XR650R, both fit well, not close at all to the clutch cover on the 650R.
Mine were both connected to FMF mufflers though (Q2 and Q4)
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Old 04-19-2011, 03:43 AM   #8255
KASUYAHO
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Aussie Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnDreamin View Post
Thanks! I think i'll give it a shot.

On the whole rear pre-load note discussed above, I found that setting it to about 100mm sag (pig pen advice) with rider on really, really helped the front end perform. Might want to consider measuring this rather than just cranking the rear shock down. One the other hand if it feel good go with it.
Give this a go.
85mm / 25mm rear sag.
Forks through the clamps 15mm.

It will turn better than a WR450, it won't head shake.
If it turns too much for you, just dial it out.

Mine has the rear raised so i run my forks flush to the top of the clamp.

Here's a pic to look at to see how far the rear has been raised.
It is always a good topic of discussion

Measurements taken with bike off ground.





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Old 04-19-2011, 03:44 AM   #8256
KASUYAHO
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Location: Aussie Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
correct i run 1 myself , cant remember the rear ill have to look but i can sit on 70mph allday long and love's it
Sean-0,
Where did you get the 16T front sprocket from?
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Old 04-19-2011, 04:32 AM   #8257
Sean-0
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Location: Mumblebum Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
Sean-0,
Where did you get the 16T front sprocket from?
came with the bike big fella , cant help ya on that , put it this way it was very expensive 16tooth sprocket lol

btw 1 day we need to catch up , i need you to dile my bike in , sag this lower that , ya got me stuffed lol
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:19 AM   #8258
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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Well it seems my clutch is truly destroyed. Its been engaging really wierd, like its skipping teeth on the chain. I just replaced the entire clutch pack, sprockets, and chain. I thought I had the problem fixed but no go. The chain is adjusted correctly. It engages fine until it gets hot, then it grabs hard and abruptly sometimes. Lately it has begun to feel like its skipping teeth.

Any guesses? Broken clutch basket maybe? I checked the basket at the time of the new clutch plates and it looked ok, but I didn't removed the basket to check further. I had hoped it was just glazed/burnt disks.
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Old 04-19-2011, 05:44 AM   #8259
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
came with the bike big fella , cant help ya on that , put it this way it was very expensive 16tooth sprocket lol

btw 1 day we need to catch up , i need you to dile my bike in , sag this lower that , ya got me stuffed lol
Have you ever checked the sag on your bike?
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Old 04-19-2011, 06:01 AM   #8260
Sean-0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
Have you ever checked the sag on your bike?
HMMMM SNAG on bread with sauce ,, oh sag .....nar i dunno but it feels like a lazyboy when i sit on it , im 95 kg b4 lunch
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:08 AM   #8261
hontri
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Location: Summerland B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
Sean-0,
Where did you get the 16T front sprocket from?
Got mine here:http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/s...roducts/page-4

Just give them a call.
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Old 04-19-2011, 08:36 AM   #8262
kt1fab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
HMMMM SNAG on bread with sauce ,, oh sag .....nar i dunno but it feels like a lazyboy when i sit on it , im 95 kg b4 lunch
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:00 AM   #8263
kt1fab
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aftermarket Exhaust

I am looking for an aftermarket exhuast if anyone has one laying around that they would like to sell (I am in the market)...
Thanks
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:10 AM   #8264
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnDreamin View Post
Thanks! I think i'll give it a shot.

On the whole rear pre-load note discussed above, I found that setting it to about 100mm sag (pig pen advice) with rider on really, really helped the front end perform. Might want to consider measuring this rather than just cranking the rear shock down. One the other hand if it feel good go with it.
A very general rule of thumb is 100mm sag on a dirt bike. Everybody quotes this, but not all dirt bikes are the same. Not saying it's wrong, but I'd also suggest using some of the other figures out there like 85mm. The reason for this is to keep the shock in it's proper area of stroke. If it's not in the proper stroke the suspension will never act correctly. As you know, the XRR does not have the same travel of a MX bike, hence the shorter sag I believe. I would think the shock travels the same, but the linkage limits the rear wheel movement.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_John View Post
I understand and you make some very important points.. I have adjusted the spring to where it behaves exactly as "Race Adjustments" suggest......3" of sag with the rider. At the setting I have it at, I sag exactly 3.5".

As for the springs touching at full compression......I don't think it will happen. I have measured it carefully.

You are probably 100% correct.....I will probably go to the new springs.

.
True, you should be attempting to get to the proper sag, however the preload is only made to be adjusted so far. After that adjustement you have to step up to the next available spring rate (or jump a few if you are way out of spec).

I just checked the service manual and I can't find any text stating this, but I'm 95% sure it's a small measurement like 10mm preload from free length of spring. Maybe it's in the user manual, or the manual that came with my Eibach spring..

I know where that is and when I get home tonight I can try scanning it. It might also have to do with the spring rate on the shock at full extension/bump stops. Ironically, the only thing holding your shock together is a small c-clip.

I may be wrong, but I'd sooner have somebody look into this before riding around on a possibly unsafe shock.
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:41 AM   #8265
JIPPERR
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The owners manual gives three numbers for the shock setting:

Maximum spring length 244.0mm
Standard position 236.5mm
Minimum spring length 230.5mm

Of course the sag at the standard position will vary by rider weight and need to be adjusted within the min and max spring length numbers to get about 95-100mm. That number comes off the pig pen website, I've found it to work well.
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