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Old 04-24-2011, 02:21 AM   #8326
Garthe
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Location: Arizona
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:16 AM   #8327
the_hulkamaniac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonebag View Post
Anyone know if the stock honda petcocks will fit on an Acerbis 6.3 tank..the ones Acerbis sent along leak from the handle and I'd rather not mess with the plastic things anyway..I don't have the stocker in hand at the moment to check..thanks
I spent the night getting my pig back into shape. I was not loving my leaky Acerbis. Here is my list of problems and fixes.

-The tank uses sheet metal screws to hold on the petcocks. Not enough tightening pressure to clamp down on the o-ring.

So I replaced the screws with a plastic screw. I used the kind that hold in the taillamp for a Ford Super duty. 8mm head with a large cork screw design. I work in a bodyshop so I didnt steal them. Also the intial pull out should be cut off, that extra mm makes it harder to seal the o-ring.

-The dripping selector.

Take it apart, two small phillips. Inside the only parts are the handle, the spring and the round bit. The round bit has a sloppy fit, but does have a flange for an o-ring. If you can find a good selection of o-rings get one that will fit in snugly on the flange then use the handle to press it back into the housing. Just some pressure and wiggle the handle. The o-ring will make a good seal. Pay attention to the small arrow on the round bit so you don`t put it in backwards.

-Things I want to do to the tank, a better cap. Not a fan of the stock setup, bug spring holding a wanna be quick fill. If the comes apart at the wrong time it could cause trouble.

-Tank foam, I think calming down the slosh would help.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:34 AM   #8328
Blakebird
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I haven't heard of many problems with the Acerbis leaking, mine didn't....the screws included worked fine. I've had three large Acerbis tanks, all for different bikes, and none leaked.

But yours did - and make sure when you're selecting replacement o-rings that you get a material good with petroleum products like Buna-N or Viton.

Not sure why you're messing with the spring/cap setup, that's also an item that gave me zero trouble and doesn't appear to be a big trouble spot on the 6.3. I wish mine had a regular cap though....like the KTM's 6.6 or the XR628's 5.8.
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:00 AM   #8329
AKASY
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Tank

+1, mine has been excellent and I've tossed it on the ground a few times
The petcocks are like $15 from Motorcycle Super Store not worth the trouble to fix one in my opinion.
The tanks come with both green and black orings I used the black and they seem to work just fine.
I'm not a fan of screws that go direct into the plastic, would much rather have an embedded machine nut but that is just me.
Sorry to hear you are having leaks hope your fix works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird View Post
I haven't heard of many problems with the Acerbis leaking, mine didn't....the screws included worked fine. I've had three large Acerbis tanks, all for different bikes, and none leaked.

But yours did - and make sure when you're selecting replacement o-rings that you get a material good with petroleum products like Buna-N or Viton.

Not sure why you're messing with the spring/cap setup, that's also an item that gave me zero trouble and doesn't appear to be a big trouble spot on the 6.3. I wish mine had a regular cap though....like the KTM's 6.6 or the XR628's 5.8.
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:06 PM   #8330
Sinfield
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Location: Hood River, OR
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Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:35 PM   #8331
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Visigothic View Post
Keeping my options open to all bikes of reputable name a 650r pops up now and then but the lack of an E start kit keeps me away. Baja no longer has them Joe Racer is gone.......and the out fit in England as of last month stopped production. Thought about the the TRX parts fitting it but that would cost a fortune part by part. Any thoughts?
Wasn't really looking, but stumbled onto an almost-brand-new Joe Racer e-start kit for sale locally (another inmate). Had to pick it up. Would probably not have been interested in adding e-start to my 6-fiddy (more weight!), but am not going to take it with me when I hit the road. Going to leave with my Dad to take on mild DS rides, and he's all about the e-start. Am going to re-turn it into something more of a flattrack-style scrambler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Good question...over all, I think it's cool and I'm glad I found one. They did a very good job of making and designing the part.

If there is a draw back, it's the fact that you really can't use a GL bag. I havn't tried...but it seems that it would just be stacked to high.

I'm still trying a few different things. The seat has to be recovered and I need to find a few small hardware parts.

My suggestion, if you find one...buy it. They are so hard to find. It's really just cool to own one.

Someday, I'm going to buy a Dakar fairing. Install both tanks...and pretend I'm in the Paris Dakar.

Hay, good luck with your CR 80/100 sale. VERY cool bike. In a couple of years, I might build one of those for my young sons.
Thanks for the feedback. Not in the market for an Acerbis underseat tank, but am going to build a new subframe and was just wondering how it handles with that extra weight back there.

Have been talking with kenaroo about re-styling his XR fairing. Would really like to get a chance to put my own spin on that, and he's already done all the hard work.

Yeah, bummed that I've gotta sell that little bike. It's a blast. My brother's got another DMC CR80 frame that's been modified to fit an CR150F/XR200/CRF230 engine. It's a lot more work than building an XR100 conversion, but it's also a lot more engine. Actually have another 'kit' for a conversion that I bought from DMC too. It's all the mounts and brackets and stuff that you'd need to build your own XR200 conversion. Hadn't thought about selling it, but need to raise some more money to finish my motorhome. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
Yes, un-cork it. It's a tractor.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:30 PM   #8332
Craiger
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Location: Southern Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
This should get you started in the right direction

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/uncork_brp/
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:12 PM   #8333
Big_John
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird View Post
I haven't heard of many problems with the Acerbis leaking, mine didn't....the screws included worked fine. I've had three large Acerbis tanks, all for different bikes, and none leaked.

But yours did - and make sure when you're selecting replacement o-rings that you get a material good with petroleum products like Buna-N or Viton.

Not sure why you're messing with the spring/cap setup, that's also an item that gave me zero trouble and doesn't appear to be a big trouble spot on the 6.3. I wish mine had a regular cap though....like the KTM's 6.6 or the XR628's 5.8.

Zero trouble as well....so far. I have run her for about 200 miles, including some rough dirt. The tank is awesome.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #8334
brapp-alot-puss
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Location: Denver, CO. Xanadu
Oddometer: 30
Chain length issue on my BRP

Hey guys, I recently acquired an 01 XRR. It was set up supermoto and I am converting it back to dirt. I got some stock wheels and I got a 520x110 chain to mate to the 15t CSS and the 48t rear sprocket. This is where my problem starts...I cant get the wheel forward enough to set the wheel straight with the proper amount of sag. I double checked the length of the chain, is a one tooth increase on the CSS enought to throw off the length this much? Any help you can offer would be great!
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:01 PM   #8335
jesusgatos
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Think the stock chain is 112 links.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:06 PM   #8336
brad21
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Location: Gardnerville, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brapp-alot-puss View Post
Hey guys, I recently acquired an 01 XRR. It was set up supermoto and I am converting it back to dirt. I got some stock wheels and I got a 520x110 chain to mate to the 15t CSS and the 48t rear sprocket. This is where my problem starts...I cant get the wheel forward enough to set the wheel straight with the proper amount of sag. I double checked the length of the chain, is a one tooth increase on the CSS enought to throw off the length this much? Any help you can offer would be great!
Run a 14t c/s until the chain stretches! (if it stretches)

I seem to remember buying like a 114 and cutting accordingly last time, and I'm running a 15t.

(hola JG)
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:13 PM   #8337
Blakebird
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Location: Parker, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.
173 main will be fat here, Sinfield. A 168 will be good for 4k', a 165 will be better for elevations you'll ride at in Colorado

The rest sounds good.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 PM   #8338
Blakebird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Think the stock chain is 112 links.
110 links, works with 13t, 14t, and 15t countershafts - the 15t will have your chain adjuster nuts snuggied pretty close to the limits of forward adjustment. (all with stock rear sprocket)
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:26 PM   #8339
jesusgatos
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So it is 110 links? Whatever the stock length is, that's what I'm running. 14/15T w/48 & 16T w/46. 15/48 fit with a brand new chain and sprockets.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:21 AM   #8340
mazman808
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Guys,
Been out trail riding for 3 days in my mikuni tm40 carby on the xrr and it still floods!
I was under the impression that the mikuni doesnt flood?

Im talking about a situation where i fall off the bike, bike either stalls or i switch it off, pick it up and try to start.
At one stage i was kicking it forever, so i did the usual method of unflooding it and that worked.

Such a shame.
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