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Old 04-24-2011, 01:06 PM   #8326
Sinfield
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Location: Hood River, OR
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Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:35 PM   #8327
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Visigothic View Post
Keeping my options open to all bikes of reputable name a 650r pops up now and then but the lack of an E start kit keeps me away. Baja no longer has them Joe Racer is gone.......and the out fit in England as of last month stopped production. Thought about the the TRX parts fitting it but that would cost a fortune part by part. Any thoughts?
Wasn't really looking, but stumbled onto an almost-brand-new Joe Racer e-start kit for sale locally (another inmate). Had to pick it up. Would probably not have been interested in adding e-start to my 6-fiddy (more weight!), but am not going to take it with me when I hit the road. Going to leave with my Dad to take on mild DS rides, and he's all about the e-start. Am going to re-turn it into something more of a flattrack-style scrambler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
Good question...over all, I think it's cool and I'm glad I found one. They did a very good job of making and designing the part.

If there is a draw back, it's the fact that you really can't use a GL bag. I havn't tried...but it seems that it would just be stacked to high.

I'm still trying a few different things. The seat has to be recovered and I need to find a few small hardware parts.

My suggestion, if you find one...buy it. They are so hard to find. It's really just cool to own one.

Someday, I'm going to buy a Dakar fairing. Install both tanks...and pretend I'm in the Paris Dakar.

Hay, good luck with your CR 80/100 sale. VERY cool bike. In a couple of years, I might build one of those for my young sons.
Thanks for the feedback. Not in the market for an Acerbis underseat tank, but am going to build a new subframe and was just wondering how it handles with that extra weight back there.

Have been talking with kenaroo about re-styling his XR fairing. Would really like to get a chance to put my own spin on that, and he's already done all the hard work.

Yeah, bummed that I've gotta sell that little bike. It's a blast. My brother's got another DMC CR80 frame that's been modified to fit an CR150F/XR200/CRF230 engine. It's a lot more work than building an XR100 conversion, but it's also a lot more engine. Actually have another 'kit' for a conversion that I bought from DMC too. It's all the mounts and brackets and stuff that you'd need to build your own XR200 conversion. Hadn't thought about selling it, but need to raise some more money to finish my motorhome. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
Yes, un-cork it. It's a tractor.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:30 PM   #8328
Craiger
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Southern Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
Hey guys,
I've been lurking this thread since I bought my BRP a few weeks ago, but I finally have a question for the experts.

I love my bike on the street, it seems to have pretty good power all around, but lately after a couple of dirt rides, I've been noticing that it seems like I have to shift ALL the time to try and stay in the power band (my KDX200 seems way torquier across the rev range in comparison), and that when the engine isn't wound into the sweet spot, it has a really bad lug, and almost sounds like it wants to die.

Since riding it on the trails and realizing this, I've been more focused on it during my normal street commuting, and I'm realizing that the bike doesn't really have a lot of grunt low down. It seems to pull really hard in the middle of the rev range, and then the power really drops off as you wind it out. Gearing wise, I think I'm on stock gearing.

The big thing that I think may be going on is that the bike hasn't been uncorked yet (to my knowledge). I'm wondering if uncorking it and rejetting at the same time will solve the lack of low down power and bad lugging on trails, and maybe also let it wind out a little more? I've heard all kinds of tales of the BRP being a monster through every gear, and mine just doesn't really feel that way (it'll only really power wheelie in first).

Do you guys think that uncorking and rejetting will address these issues? How hard it it to uncork the bike? From what I've heard, it's basically

1. Drill out baffle in exhaust w/ 2" hole saw
2. Dremel out the edges of the restrictor plate that goes between the carb and cylinder
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys have. I love my bike, I just want it to have a little flatter torque cure throughout the range.
This should get you started in the right direction

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/uncork_brp/
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:12 PM   #8329
Big_John
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird View Post
I haven't heard of many problems with the Acerbis leaking, mine didn't....the screws included worked fine. I've had three large Acerbis tanks, all for different bikes, and none leaked.

But yours did - and make sure when you're selecting replacement o-rings that you get a material good with petroleum products like Buna-N or Viton.

Not sure why you're messing with the spring/cap setup, that's also an item that gave me zero trouble and doesn't appear to be a big trouble spot on the 6.3. I wish mine had a regular cap though....like the KTM's 6.6 or the XR628's 5.8.

Zero trouble as well....so far. I have run her for about 200 miles, including some rough dirt. The tank is awesome.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #8330
brapp-alot-puss
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Location: Denver, CO. Xanadu
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Chain length issue on my BRP

Hey guys, I recently acquired an 01 XRR. It was set up supermoto and I am converting it back to dirt. I got some stock wheels and I got a 520x110 chain to mate to the 15t CSS and the 48t rear sprocket. This is where my problem starts...I cant get the wheel forward enough to set the wheel straight with the proper amount of sag. I double checked the length of the chain, is a one tooth increase on the CSS enought to throw off the length this much? Any help you can offer would be great!
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:01 PM   #8331
jesusgatos
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Location: on the road
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Think the stock chain is 112 links.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:06 PM   #8332
brad21
Farting in a Fan
 
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Location: Gardnerville, NV
Oddometer: 3,600
Quote:
Originally Posted by brapp-alot-puss View Post
Hey guys, I recently acquired an 01 XRR. It was set up supermoto and I am converting it back to dirt. I got some stock wheels and I got a 520x110 chain to mate to the 15t CSS and the 48t rear sprocket. This is where my problem starts...I cant get the wheel forward enough to set the wheel straight with the proper amount of sag. I double checked the length of the chain, is a one tooth increase on the CSS enought to throw off the length this much? Any help you can offer would be great!
Run a 14t c/s until the chain stretches! (if it stretches)

I seem to remember buying like a 114 and cutting accordingly last time, and I'm running a 15t.

(hola JG)
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:13 PM   #8333
Blakebird
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Parker, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinfield View Post
3. Re-jet. I live in Denver, and was talking to a guy right after I bought the bike, and he recommended the following jets
-HRC Needle, 3rd clip
-68s pilot jet
-168-173 main jet.
173 main will be fat here, Sinfield. A 168 will be good for 4k', a 165 will be better for elevations you'll ride at in Colorado

The rest sounds good.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 PM   #8334
Blakebird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Think the stock chain is 112 links.
110 links, works with 13t, 14t, and 15t countershafts - the 15t will have your chain adjuster nuts snuggied pretty close to the limits of forward adjustment. (all with stock rear sprocket)
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:26 PM   #8335
jesusgatos
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So it is 110 links? Whatever the stock length is, that's what I'm running. 14/15T w/48 & 16T w/46. 15/48 fit with a brand new chain and sprockets.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:21 AM   #8336
mazman808
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Guys,
Been out trail riding for 3 days in my mikuni tm40 carby on the xrr and it still floods!
I was under the impression that the mikuni doesnt flood?

Im talking about a situation where i fall off the bike, bike either stalls or i switch it off, pick it up and try to start.
At one stage i was kicking it forever, so i did the usual method of unflooding it and that worked.

Such a shame.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:00 AM   #8337
Purcell69
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Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazman808 View Post
Guys,
Been out trail riding for 3 days in my mikuni tm40 carby on the xrr and it still floods!
I was under the impression that the mikuni doesnt flood?

Im talking about a situation where i fall off the bike, bike either stalls or i switch it off, pick it up and try to start.
At one stage i was kicking it forever, so i did the usual method of unflooding it and that worked.

Such a shame.
I don't know why the TM40 would be any different from any other carburetor. When the bike gets laid over, fuel runs out of the float bowl through the jets and floods the motor. Once you get it back upright, you have to clear the engine. I would think the only induction method not prone to flooding when the bike is laid down would have to be fuel injection. Pull the decompress, hold the throttle wide open and give it several kicks to clear it, no big deal.

-Joe
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:08 AM   #8338
BikePilot
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Its the edlebrock that doesn't flood. Its magic like that. (seriously, I had the bike on its side for well over an hour, no flooding, one normal kick and it was back to life).
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:12 AM   #8339
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazman808 View Post
Guys,
Been out trail riding for 3 days in my mikuni tm40 carby on the xrr and it still floods!
I was under the impression that the mikuni doesnt flood?

Im talking about a situation where i fall off the bike, bike either stalls or i switch it off, pick it up and try to start.
At one stage i was kicking it forever, so i did the usual method of unflooding it and that worked.

Such a shame.
It's not a shame, a TM40 is about performance and that's never free. An Edelbrock carb won't flood following a fall and might be a better idea for you. Most folks find starting a TM40 equipped XR very easy, allot better than a stock carb.

At this point you can ether suck it up, try not to fall, buy the other carb or get a KLR.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:37 AM   #8340
Garthe
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
At this point you can ether suck it up, try not to fall, buy the other carb or get a KLR.

That's one of the things a LOVE about the XRR...it's not a bike for wimps.
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