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Old 04-26-2011, 07:20 AM   #8356
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
gimble , a person who talks the talk but cant walk the walk
hey did ya get those pics??

Fag Button , elect start with a red button for faggots to push , if ya cant kick it, ya cant ride it

Squid ,goes with out saying

but tru tho , i recon if you got it running right it will start every time , dont stall it on a hill and dont drop it , both of which i do all the time , but makes me learn my lessons

ppl point and larf , but there smile soon changes when there behind the xrr
I like the one where the gimps say,
the BRP is old tech.

Whats old tech?
Is it that we don't have to throw a shit load of money at the pig to keep it going makes it old tech?
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:53 AM   #8357
brad21
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While my buddy N2moto and I were down pre-running the B1k last year we ran into a JCR Honda box van just outside of Gonzaga Bay with TJ (JCR right-hand man) and Colton Udall, (JCR B team). Colton told N2 that he wished he was riding an XRR cuz the 450x was beating him up too much!
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:28 PM   #8358
chip
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Interesting.

I've raced the XRR and the 450X. The only reason, and I mean only, I switched from the xrr to the x is because I fell over on a hill and was passed twice before I could get the bike started again.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:54 PM   #8359
jm-2008
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Laugh Winter on the Gold Coast!

[QUOTE=Sean-0;15756106]Why do you ppl have soo much trouble starting on the stock carb
Its getting on to winter here , i can pull my bike out of the shed , pull up the choke leaver , get it to tdc , and bang

Winter on the Gold Coast -
From my iPhone weather -
Wednesday 23C & sunshine

Melbourne - currently 7C
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:07 PM   #8360
Crabenho
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Puke

[QUOTE=jm-2008;15766394]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
Why do you ppl have soo much trouble starting on the stock carb
Its getting on to winter here , i can pull my bike out of the shed , pull up the choke leaver , get it to tdc , and bang

Winter on the Gold Coast -
From my iPhone weather -
Wednesday 23C & sunshine

Melbourne - currently 7C
Pull it out of the shed, start it, get off, kick it over on its side and wait til it dies, pick it up and try to get it to start "bang" in one kick.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:17 PM   #8361
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[QUOTE=Crabenho;15766465]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post

Pull it out of the shed, start it, get off, kick it over on its side and wait til it dies, pick it up and try to get it to start "bang" in one kick.
Sorry, quoted the wrong dude. FOOOKin' "smart" phone.
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Old 04-26-2011, 04:45 PM   #8362
brad21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chip View Post
Interesting.

I've raced the XRR and the 450X. The only reason, and I mean only, I switched from the xrr to the x is because I fell over on a hill and was passed twice before I could get the bike started again.
Bear in mind that Mr. Udall had done COUNTLESS miles pre-running on the X and I believe wanted something a little more "couch" like...

We ran a 450x in Baja last year. Not having spent much time on one prior to the race, and then not a race-prepped one, I was quite impressed with the power and flickability. BUT, there is nothing like the piggy.
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:11 PM   #8363
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad21 View Post
While my buddy N2moto and I were down pre-running the B1k last year we ran into a JCR Honda box van just outside of Gonzaga Bay with TJ (JCR right-hand man) and Colton Udall, (JCR B team). Colton told N2 that he wished he was riding an XRR cuz the 450x was beating him up too much!
Talking to a guy who raced Baja for many years was talking to JC at a function.
JC said the same thing to him.
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:58 AM   #8364
opcocrg
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I've been looking at picking up the TM40 carb and noticed that they usually come with new throttle cables. Are the cables "different" than the stock cables or just new?

reason for the question is that I just bought a sub mount top triple and have some RC high bend bars so I want to get the 3 inch longer cables to eliminate binding. but I can't find TM40 specific cables. The longer cables from motion pro don't say they fit a specific carb. If they're different I'll wait to mount the new triple and bars till the carb shows up. I don't want to get the longer cables for the stock carb and then have to buy a different set when the TM40 carb shows up.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:01 AM   #8365
HickOnACrick
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Question gentlemen:

How do you know if a brake caliper is bad?

Last night, when I tried to put my front wheel back on, I couldn't get the brake pads apart using the usual method (sliding a tire iron between the pads).

Eventually I had to remove the caliper entirely, drain all the brake fluid, remove the pads, and use a C-clamp to depress the brake pistons.

After that, I replaced the caliper, put the wheel back on, bled the brakes, but now the piston won't depress again (hard to turn the front wheel).

Is it shot? Can I rebuild it?
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:04 AM   #8366
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opcocrg View Post
I've been looking at picking up the TM40 carb and noticed that they usually come with new throttle cables. Are the cables "different" than the stock cables or just new?


I just went through this, the cables are different.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:52 AM   #8367
opcocrg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe View Post
I just went through this, the cables are different.
Since I'm basically copying your set up, what did or are you doing about the cable situation?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:07 AM   #8368
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opcocrg View Post
Since I'm basically copying your set up, what did or are you doing about the cable situation?

I had the company who provided me the carb supply the cables (Motion Pro cables). I did 5" over stock.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:24 AM   #8369
Tim McKittrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HickOnACrick View Post
Question gentlemen:

How do you know if a brake caliper is bad?

Last night, when I tried to put my front wheel back on, I couldn't get the brake pads apart using the usual method (sliding a tire iron between the pads).

Eventually I had to remove the caliper entirely, drain all the brake fluid, remove the pads, and use a C-clamp to depress the brake pistons.

After that, I replaced the caliper, put the wheel back on, bled the brakes, but now the piston won't depress again (hard to turn the front wheel).

Is it shot? Can I rebuild it?
I suspect your pistons are sticking in their bores due to a buildup of corrosion and glop- you need to dismantle the caliper and carefully clean both the bores and pistons- or replace the pistons if they are showing obvious signs of pitting and corrosion. Also replace both the wiper and retraction seals of the pistons.

Piston (2) # 43107-MGB-006
Seal set (2) # 66431-MA3-405

The only difficult bit can be getting the stuck pistons out of the caliper- in most cases they can just be pumped out with brake fluid, but others on the forum have had to resort to forcing them out with grease, compressed air, etc.

The takeaway here is the real need to change and flush one's brake fluid every year or so- brake fluid gets darker as it absorbs water and other contaminants so it's a good idea to replace it with fresh fluid (from a sealed container- or else the stuff you are pouring in may have as much water and crap in it as what you are removing) once it begins to get noticeably dark.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:28 PM   #8370
HickOnACrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim McKittrick View Post
I suspect your pistons are sticking in their bores due to a buildup of corrosion and glop- you need to dismantle the caliper and carefully clean both the bores and pistons- or replace the pistons if they are showing obvious signs of pitting and corrosion. Also replace both the wiper and retraction seals of the pistons.

Piston (2) # 43107-MGB-006
Seal set (2) # 66431-MA3-405

The only difficult bit can be getting the stuck pistons out of the caliper- in most cases they can just be pumped out with brake fluid, but others on the forum have had to resort to forcing them out with grease, compressed air, etc.

The takeaway here is the real need to change and flush one's brake fluid every year or so- brake fluid gets darker as it absorbs water and other contaminants so it's a good idea to replace it with fresh fluid (from a sealed container- or else the stuff you are pouring in may have as much water and crap in it as what you are removing) once it begins to get noticeably dark.
Thanks for the reply. Looks like I get to teach myself how to rebuild a brake. Hooray for youtube!

Oh, and by the way, say hello () to Sarah for me.
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