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Old 04-30-2011, 11:12 AM   #8416
larryboy
Chopper Rider
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 15,048
Quote:
Originally Posted by opcocrg View Post
it took a lot of fiddling to find what seems to work best for getting this thing started and once it's running I have no issues with it, BUT.......it seems the choke on mine doesn't work right. If I try and start it cold with just the choke on it takes forever (5 or 6 good kicks following the starting procedure) and once it starts it doesn't rev like the choke is even on, it just idles like normal. What I found works is to turn the idle adjuster up about 2 full turns with the choke on full and then it starts on the first or second kick and actually revs like the choke is on. then I flip the choke down to half or off because half doesn't rev any different than off and then I have to turn the idle adjuster back down till it idles at a normal rpm. after all that it runs and starts fine as long as it's relatively warm.

on another note, sometimes it seems as though it has a mind of it's own at stop lights. it doesn't happen all the time but occasionally it wants to idle really high and sometimes blipping the throttle brings it down and sometimes it doesn't. other times it feels like it's going to die and I need to keep the throttle on a little bit so it won't.

Are you sure it has a choke flap? Most of them get taken out because they fall apart and get sucked into the engine.

Take the bowl off the carb and make sure the jam nut is tight on the emulsifier tube or whatever it's called. I had a bunch of the same symptoms and that jam nut wasn't tight which let that tube fall down to the bowl and it won't fall all of the way out until you take the entire bowl off.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:45 PM   #8417
Coastie3202
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Location: Alamogordo, New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Thermostat broken and stuck open or you're not running one.
Interesting suggestion. I hadn't thought of that, if you're being serious. Can the thermostat be pulled without draining the coolant system? I have noticed that it seems to run a little on the cool side most of the time. Usually just below 200 degrees.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:52 PM   #8418
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 15,048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastie3202 View Post
Interesting suggestion. I hadn't thought of that, if you're being serious. Can the thermostat be pulled without draining the coolant system? I have noticed that it seems to run a little on the cool side most of the time. Usually just below 200 degrees.

If you have hose pinchers you can clamp the hoses on either side of the t-stat housing and take it out, it's no big deal to just dump the coolant.

Yes, I'm serious. If it doesn't run hot enough it'll run rich even when jetted right. My bike did the same thing and I'm jetted the same as you. I'm at sea level and pulled the plug to make sure I'm not too lean, black and sooty.

This is what I found:

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Old 04-30-2011, 01:29 PM   #8419
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
You'll have plenty of opportunity to stretch the XR's legs.
Some awesome footage...Thanks for the post.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:41 PM   #8420
ODSC1
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Joined: Jan 2003
Location: Ontario Canada
Oddometer: 200
Acerbis Tank Mounting Question

I just bought an Acerbis tank off another inmate. The tank is new but didn't come with petcocks or mounting hardware. So, my questions;

What type of petcock is used for the left side? Hose facing forward, rearward or to the inside? Just from a test fit it looks like a forward or inward facing hose would work best.

And, what sort of hardware is used or included for the lower mounts to the rads?

Thanks,
Brian
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:59 PM   #8421
seabee1
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Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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if i'm not mistaken, the left petcock faces rearward.
the lower mounting points don't mount to the radiators, but to the brackets that are supplied with newly bought tanks. i went with the tanker brace sold by an inmate here in the vendor forum. hoodakaguy, or some such thing. very nice brace. well worth the $. there are some rubber grommets and metal sleeves you'll need as well. i was told to contact acerbis directly for the parts for the tank.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:24 PM   #8422
ODSC1
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Location: Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabee1 View Post
if i'm not mistaken, the left petcock faces rearward.
the lower mounting points don't mount to the radiators, but to the brackets that are supplied with newly bought tanks. i went with the tanker brace sold by an inmate here in the vendor forum. hoodakaguy, or some such thing. very nice brace. well worth the $. there are some rubber grommets and metal sleeves you'll need as well. i was told to contact acerbis directly for the parts for the tank.
I did get one of the Tanker braces with the tank which was a real plus. Looks like a nicely made part.

Where does the T fitting go that connects the petcocks? I was thinking on the right side behind the petcock

Brian
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:06 PM   #8423
seabee1
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that's where i did mine. on the right side.
i just developed a leak in the left lobe on todays ride. :(
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Old 04-30-2011, 08:21 PM   #8424
cdogg44
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Can the auto decompressor on the cam "wear out"?

I only ask because on my newest XR I have had a heck of a time setting the valves this time around. I kept getting them too loose, which I know is opposite of what usually happens when the auto decomp engages.

Through the several times I checked them I noticed the auto decomp would engage instantly and not always when I expected it too. Although after messing with it for so long I was kind of low on concentration and maybe it was like it always was.

I only ask because I nailed my first valve adjustment ever on my other XR, but this one took me several times to finally dial in.

Also, is there any valve overlap with the stock cam? A point where the exhaust and intake are both engaged? I swear I noticed some. Also (and I am NOT an engine guy) my intakes opened immediately after the T mark on the flywheel, and I always thought TDC was the top of the compression stroke which would put the exhausts first to open on the pistons way back up, not the intakes. It's been a looooooong day, so go easy on me if that's not right.
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Old 05-01-2011, 12:56 AM   #8425
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
Can the auto decompressor on the cam "wear out"?

I only ask because on my newest XR I have had a heck of a time setting the valves this time around. I kept getting them too loose, which I know is opposite of what usually happens when the auto decomp engages.

Through the several times I checked them I noticed the auto decomp would engage instantly and not always when I expected it too. Although after messing with it for so long I was kind of low on concentration and maybe it was like it always was.

I only ask because I nailed my first valve adjustment ever on my other XR, but this one took me several times to finally dial in.

Also, is there any valve overlap with the stock cam? A point where the exhaust and intake are both engaged? I swear I noticed some. Also (and I am NOT an engine guy) my intakes opened immediately after the T mark on the flywheel, and I always thought TDC was the top of the compression stroke which would put the exhausts first to open on the pistons way back up, not the intakes. It's been a looooooong day, so go easy on me if that's not right.
Yep it has camshaft overlap. every camshaft has it.

The only time the intake will open just after the T mark is at camshaft overlap, at the same time the exhaust will be closing too.
If you see that your out by 360 degree's.

What i do Dogg is go look for camshaft overlap, i look for when the exhaust is closing and the intake opening (camshaft overlap) then look to where the T mark is at a glance and then turn the crank 360 degree's and stop on the T and set the valve clearance.

Another thing i do as old habit, when on T use my hands and rock the rockers, both intake and exhaust should move, free play due to valve clearance.

KASUYAHO screwed with this post 05-01-2011 at 06:27 PM
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:05 AM   #8426
Beserker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post

What i do Dogg is go look for camshaft overlap, i look for when the exhaust is closing and the intake opening (camshaft overlap) then look to where the T mark is at a glance and then turn the crank 360 degree's and stop on the T and set the valve clearance.

Another thing i do as old habit, when on T use my hands and rock the rockers, both intake and exhaust should move, free play due to valve clearance.
Not an engine guy myself, the first time took me for ever, till I realised the above...now it takes me minutes.

Good advice by KASUYAHO
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:29 PM   #8427
zeroblah
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I've really been enjoying this thread for some time now, i've picked up alot of things from it as well. Which is why i feel like an idiot for asking this question. I have a 2001 brp, the previous owner put on his "own" ds kit, but unfortunatly no battery or capacitor. The turn signals have no buffer. they need one? correct? I cant remember where but i thought i saw a very small battery (3in x 2in x 1in) for about 40 dollars. My brp is having some electrical issues, runs fine, but cant hook up the vapor i bought, and the turn signals quit working, as well as the headlight blips off for a second when i hit the brake. I've built plenty of hot rod motors in the past, but im completly retarded when it comes to electrical, so keep in mind when trying to explain things to me keep it in simple easy to understand terms. Thank you in advance for any information one might have.
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:56 PM   #8428
RideFreak
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Great explanation and advise KASUYAHO Especially the check to ensure TDC comp (both valves loose). This and decomp interference is what fouls folks up starting off.

A couple tricks I use:
We all know the motor is rotated backwards to reach the adj point so there isn't any interference by the autodecomp system. I pull the sparkplug and turn the motor over backwards by rotating the rear wheel with the bike in gear to reach my valve adj point. It saves having to pull the sidecover but...

It's pretty hard to stop the crank exactly on the TDC mark unless you take off the sidecover and turn the crank directly Since I don't need to pull that cover for any other reason then doing valve adj, I leave it on.

Using the rear wheel, I roll it over till the ex valve is fully open and check/adj the intake. Then turn the motor over till the intake is fully open and check/adj the ex. Closure ramps on the XR's stock cam are steep enough that lobe interference disappears fairly soon after the valve closes.

Rocker freeplay still has to be verified to make sure the motor is fully off the cam's ramp but because the motor is being rotated backward, ramp interference will appear at the end of the valve's opening period. I verified lash at TDC comp (per manual) just to make sure and it checked out the same which I knew it would. It's not difficult to determine when the cam is influencing a rocker arm but it does require a "feel" for the system. If someone isn't very comfortable with the inner workings of a motor, following the manual is a better idea.

Takes me longer to pull the tank and rocker covers than do the checks and actual adjustments. I'd add to that that the valves are rarely out, usually just one or 2 need a slight tweak which is normal.
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Old 05-01-2011, 03:11 PM   #8429
jm-2008
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[QUOTE=RideFreak;15804449]Great explanation and advise KASUYAHO Especially the check to ensure TDC comp (both valves loose). This and decomp interference is what fouls folks up starting off.

A couple tricks I use:
We all know the motor is rotated backwards to reach the adj point so there isn't any interference by the autodecomp system. I pull the sparkplug and turn the motor over backwards by rotating the rear wheel with the bike in gear to reach my valve adj point. It saves having to pull the sidecover but...

It's pretty hard to stop the crank exactly on the TDC mark unless you take off the sidecover and turn the crank directly Since I don't need to pull that cover for any other reason then doing valve adj, I leave it on.

Using the rear wheel, I roll it over till the ex valve is fully open and check/adj the intake. Then turn the motor over till the intake is fully open and check/adj the ex. Closure ramps on the XR's stock cam are steep enough that lobe interference disappears fairly soon after the valve closes.

Rocker freeplay still has to be verified to make sure the motor is fully off the cam's ramp but because the motor is being rotated backward, ramp interference will appear at the end of the valve's opening period. I verified lash at TDC comp (per manual) just to make sure and it checked out the same which I knew it would. It's not difficult to determine when the cam is influencing a rocker arm but it does require a "feel" for the system. If someone isn't very comfortable with the inner workings of a motor, following the manual is a better idea.

Takes me longer to pull the tank and rocker covers than do the checks and actual adjustments. I'd add to that that the valves are rarely out, usually just one or 2 need a slight tweak which is normal.

+1 to RF & Kasuyaho's suggestions above.
The following method has also worked well for me for many years and does not appear to be influenced by de-comp unit.
1) remove tank/covers etc.
2) leave the spark plug in
3) slowly rotate the engine using the kick starter.
4) watch the exhaust open/close
5) watch the inlets open/close
At this point continue pressing down the kick starter until you 'feel' the motor come up to compression.
Continue pressure on the kick starter slowly until you 'feel' it bump over TDC.
At this point if you are slightly past the TDC mark all is usually OK as the motor is on the power stroke phase, cam followers on the base circle of the cam and nowhere near any quietening ramps on the base circle that may effect clearance.
The rockers should also have some freeplay.
Sound much more complicated than it is in practice.

This method saves having to remove the inspection caps to sight the TDC marks.
Hope this doesn't confuse anyone.

Regards,

JM
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:54 PM   #8430
Ironwood
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I do the same as RideFreak but with a twist. I put a wood dowel in the spark plug hole and watch it rise to top dead center. At that time if all the valves have play it is correct to set them all. If not then I need to turn it over one more time.

I don't like getting down and staring through that inspection hole while I am trying to turn the rear wheel backwards. By the time you see the mark it has gone past.

Joe
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