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Old 06-08-2011, 02:29 PM   #8956
BHW
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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I told you I was ready to buy! Yes, let's ride. I've been poking around down near Corinth and found some fun stuff.

I did not doubt that you were ready. Finding one hours closer to home is always nice. I was the one having doubts. My wife actually talked me out of selling it...with the "you'll be miserable, so just keep it" talk. The big hurdle for me was, if I sold mine, it would be at least 2 years before I could afford to buy another. And I'd want two bikes, one street and one dirt.

I've ridden down around the "Corinth" area....near Harris Lake, etc. Decent stuff down that way, but summer riding only due to hunting lands.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:28 PM   #8957
cdogg44
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Originally Posted by PeteN95 View Post
Really? I can!
At 55mph sustained speed I don't see them making any difference at all.

Now rolling through stoplights and never getting above 15mph, I can see them not helping me, but not causing the temps to raise much faster than the stock guards.

I'm more asking about water temp at sustained speeds...not so much as "It gets hot when I sit still!" I figured that out real quick last summer.

And no, it shouldn't be lean. It's got a TM40 and I dialed it in this spring with temps in the 50's-70's. Plus the air filter could use a cleaning, so if anything it should be rich.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:34 PM   #8958
dirtard
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Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
At 55mph sustained speed I don't see them making any difference at all.

Now rolling through stoplights and never getting above 15mph, I can see them not helping me, but not causing the temps to raise much faster than the stock guards.

I'm more asking about water temp at sustained speeds...not so much as "It gets hot when I sit still!" I figured that out real quick last summer.

And no, it shouldn't be lean. It's got a TM40 and I dialed it in this spring with temps in the 50's-70's. Plus the air filter could use a cleaning, so if anything it should be rich.
a restriction is a restiction nomatter what. if it slows flow at low speeds it will also slow flow at greater speeds. if your airfilter is dirty is will play a big role. i took out the little round foam disks that the po put in the cutout vents in my airfilter cover and my bike runs way better all around. great take off and pulls hard now all the way to redline. its amazing what seems like a small restriction can do to performance/fuel mixtures.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:20 PM   #8959
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
At 55mph sustained speed I don't see them making any difference at all.

Now rolling through stoplights and never getting above 15mph, I can see them not helping me, but not causing the temps to raise much faster than the stock guards.

I'm more asking about water temp at sustained speeds...not so much as "It gets hot when I sit still!" I figured that out real quick last summer.

And no, it shouldn't be lean. It's got a TM40 and I dialed it in this spring with temps in the 50's-70's. Plus the air filter could use a cleaning, so if anything it should be rich.
Which fuel tank are you running? I found the big tank tends to shroud the the cyl head and it cuts down flow some through the rads. It def runs warmer with the 25L tank.

Also I wouldn't put allot of stock into the comparison, it's not really apples to apples. It's not uncommon for two identical senders from the same manu to vary 5 to 10%, the exception being milspec thermistors and even then the system needs calibrated to get real accuracy.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:27 PM   #8960
cdogg44
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Which fuel tank are you running? I found the big tank tends to shroud the the cyl head and it cuts down flow some through the rads. It def runs warmer with the 25L tank.

Also I wouldn't put allot of stock into the comparison, it's not really apples to apples. It's not uncommon for two identical senders from the same manu to vary 5 to 10%, the exception being milspec thermistors and even then the system needs calibrated to get real accuracy.
Clarke 4.3

It is the same sender. I took the Vapor off my other bike when I sold it and instead of butchering the coolant hose I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing. Same sender.

Although, with it being on the backside of the thermostat housing that does place it awfully close to the headers. Maybe it's a few degrees warmer there and it's heating up the sensor from the outside and conducting it through to the pickup. Who knows...I just seem to remember the stock bike always wanting to run ~90* above ambient which would've put me at ~185* Saturday and I'm just chasing a few degrees because I'm curious.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:34 PM   #8961
Capt. Egregious
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What sort of coolant hoses are you guy's running on your piggy's? O.E.M? Silicone? My XR finally needs coolant hoses after 11 years. Any info appreciated.
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:39 PM   #8962
crypto666
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Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
Clarke 4.3

It is the same sender. I took the Vapor off my other bike when I sold it and instead of butchering the coolant hose I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing. Same sender.

Although, with it being on the backside of the thermostat housing that does place it awfully close to the headers. Maybe it's a few degrees warmer there and it's heating up the sensor from the outside and conducting it through to the pickup. Who knows...I just seem to remember the stock bike always wanting to run ~90* above ambient which would've put me at ~185* Saturday and I'm just chasing a few degrees because I'm curious.
Different bike and different temp source? Maybe your head gasket is blown.
I also ride a WR450, and that thing gets hot quick and stays there, but is aparently normal. I don't have any coolent readings, just qualitative data.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:44 PM   #8963
RallyMoto
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Crypto, I spoke with Diane at Precision Concepts when I did my rebuild, hoping to do the same thing you're planning. HRC/Honda has no plans to make the timing chain kit anymore. You can get the actual HRC cam still, but it's $500+ now in non-kit form.

After thorough research, I elected to go with a new Honda chain. I could find no info stating any aftermarket timing chains were better.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:03 AM   #8964
JIPPERR
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hey! how does the shifting feel when your bike heats up? i've been noticing some notchy-ness for a few shifts after idling at lights, stuck in traffic etc. Is this normal? Also running Devol rad guards, put them on over the winter and it seems to me that things have heated up a bit but nothing conclusive as i'm procrastinating on getting the TT vapour unit.

Obviously in the mud they are an asset but will taking off the plastic rad 'louvers' help keep cool in day to day street riding?


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Old 06-09-2011, 03:49 AM   #8965
rocketmanphil
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[QUOTE=nella;16105384]The only frame of reference I have is a FMF Q4 on a XR650L and the R4 is way louder than that. I may try to find something a little more tame so as not to completely alienate all my neighbors.


I run a full Arrow system, although, I have had it rebuilt, re-packed and the muffler shortened about 20mm. I have found that it is mmmm bit loud but I just am bit more carefull on the throttle
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:12 AM   #8966
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
Clarke 4.3

It is the same sender. I took the Vapor off my other bike when I sold it and instead of butchering the coolant hose I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing. Same sender.

Although, with it being on the backside of the thermostat housing that does place it awfully close to the headers. Maybe it's a few degrees warmer there and it's heating up the sensor from the outside and conducting it through to the pickup. Who knows...I just seem to remember the stock bike always wanting to run ~90* above ambient which would've put me at ~185* Saturday and I'm just chasing a few degrees because I'm curious.
The 4.3 tank shouldn't be an issue. Running the TM40 on the lean side might be some of what your seeing with the temp difference. Personally I'll trade a little extra heat for the extra mpg. Is it boiling over on you? Most folks use that as the bar since they don't have any coolant temp readout. In summer, mid 90s ambient in traffic or soon after I stopped on a technical trail with it idling mine would boil the coolant which is why I added a fan. Not sure how well the fluidynes rads work in that situation, I've heard they are a big improvement over the OE stuff. This time of year the OT has been running about 200 (moving) and spiking to 225 when stopped or in traffic, previous to the fan it'd spike up around 250~260 which is the upper limit I'm comfortable with. Why don't you pull the guards and take it for a run, see if that's the prob.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:52 AM   #8967
AJ..
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Hey fellas,

I am back with my 2nd BRP after sold the 1st 1 late last year.
This time,I got something with little milege over the last 1.The last one already gone over 120,000km....now the 2nd one,has only 25k km on it.



Hope it will bring more riding episods like the last 1.

So I am putting back my ol wallpaper back on.

Cheers,
AJsgp
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:26 AM   #8968
crypto666
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Originally Posted by RallyMoto View Post
Crypto, I spoke with Diane at Precision Concepts when I did my rebuild, hoping to do the same thing you're planning. HRC/Honda has no plans to make the timing chain kit anymore. You can get the actual HRC cam still, but it's $500+ now in non-kit form.

After thorough research, I elected to go with a new Honda chain. I could find no info stating any aftermarket timing chains were better.

I hear ya, I ordered the HRC timing chain/sprockets/guide by part number and it was painful. Should be in the mail now though. Like you said, I donít know that it is necessary, but I am/was in panic mode trying to get my bike back together and want it done right. It has been very reliable and I want to keep it that way, but I havenít heard of a lot of timing chain failures, if any. So I probably should have spent that money on a new carb, but I guess this way I can tell people how much better person I am since I have the HRC timing components.
XRís Only also said that the OEM chain was as good as it gets (in reference to the unavailability of the HRC kit).
I think the weakest link in this motor is the connecting rod. That is the only part out of spec on my motor, not including the gaping hole in the case. The lubrication for the rod has a minor flaw. There is only a single oil jet spraying the bottom of the piston and the wrist pin/ which then flows down to the crank. Because it is a single jet spraying from the side it creates a shadow on the flywheel side of the crank/rod/piston. If you look at the pic of my wrist pin you can see one side is like new, the other is like trashed.

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Old 06-09-2011, 09:39 AM   #8969
cdogg44
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
This time of year the OT has been running about 200 (moving) and spiking to 225 when stopped or in traffic
Those are my exact same numbers. And like I've said all along, I don't think I have a problem at all I just wanted to confirm that in 95* weather a water temp of 200* at 55mph was normal.

Last June was a looooooooong time ago! Ha I remember a year ago right now when I had just brought my first BRP home I boiled it over in the driveway letting it idle (trying to sort through the PO's wiring nightmare).
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:29 AM   #8970
crypto666
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so you bought a used xrr?

Getting a replacement crankcase is proving to be nightmare. I got a call today about my crankcase order a they won't sell me one because according to Honda's data base I am not the owner. As if honda's data base has any clue. So now I have to go through a dealer to get the info changed in Honda's data base, which wouldn't be a big deal other than I live in the middle of no where. The closest dealer is 2 hours away, half of which is torn up dirt road. Luckily my honda dealer since childhood is allowing me to email them my stuff and they will change it.

So if you bought your bike used, you might want to let honda know because according to them, you don't own the bike.
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