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Old 08-05-2011, 05:59 PM   #9541
Burnszilla
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Redwood City, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron View Post
Loosen the post on the frame's headstock (the big part that clamps, not just the post). If it's loose enough, it will bend down enough in front of the clamps to allow the insertion of the damper and arm over the post. I think I also rotate the forks to one side or the other to get more room. Then use a ball-end allen wrench to tighten the two bolts on the damper to the top triple clamp, then re-tighten the post to the frame.

Edit: Watched your video and see your problem. Remove your top triple clamp to tighten the risers. Install on the bike, align and tighten the clamps to the forks. Then, follow my directions above to install the damper. Re-install the handlebars if they have been removed (most likely in your case). In the future, you don't need to remove the bars to remove and/or install the damper. You only need to loosen the post clamp on the frame.
BRP sent me the solution. I had to knock down the tower pin into the black collar so it would sit a bit lower.

Now I have to figure out how to mount my trailtech Vapor to the top bar clamps. I bought the top bar clamps with the 54mm mounting holes for a stabilizer on the top. I'll use those holes to mount the Vapor.

Thanks guys.
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:39 PM   #9542
jm-2008
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Location: South Eastern Australia
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Tank foam

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Huh? No, not at all, it still moves like before, only the sloshing is gone. When manhandling/walking it is quite noticeable, haven't ridden it offroad yet, just around the block. When braking hard I think I feel it not moving - if that makes sense, it is more stable.
This foam lasts, just not too cheap. I still have to fill the large 27L IMS but I'm happy, it really makes - at low speeds at least - a difference. Can't see that changing at high speeds so btw.
SUZUKI used it in their RG500 GP racers in the 70's
Have pondered it's availability for my Sahara tank
Is it available in RED?

JM
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:40 PM   #9543
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Many have bought the 'opened' lhs sidecover, or made one.
If you have a good look under the seat you will see the path the intake-air has to take in standard form, and it is a complicated one, quite restricted too.
The 2 holes shown below surely must rate as the cheapest improvement in this department? No mesh needed either.
BuRPsa, Nice writeup, let us know how it works.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:00 PM   #9544
seabee1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
SUZUKI used it in their RG500 GP racers in the 70's
Have pondered it's availability for my Sahara tank
Is it available in RED?

JM
that's like wearing only a certain color of underwear! nobody's gonna see it. go for the purple and pink cubes.

with unicorns. : )
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:06 PM   #9545
mung
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Batwing

Batwing was the first improvement I did to my XR after uncorking it.Made power much smoother of off the bottom and jetting seemed to be much less critical.Worth the effort and cost.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:33 PM   #9546
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Sure, hereunder.
It's the blue bits only, I'm busy making an aluminium subframe, so ignore the silver bits.
This rack screws on, and it fits reasonably well depending on how badly your std-subframe is bent - and they all are. I made two thin alu bushes to get a 'perfect' fit, mine fits with zero tension, compared to as before I had to use some force to get it to fit. This is a good rack, it attaches to 4 bolts: the 2 visible plus the 2 seatbolts.
Thanks BURP that helps me understand the rack better

jungleplant screwed with this post 08-07-2011 at 11:51 AM
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:39 AM   #9547
BuRPsa
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RF,

I can't, would have to lie. I've got the opened cover already, one of the first things I put on, and therefore it gets air aplenty. Add that I've put on a TM40, which' (WO-)jetting still is not perfect, and the recent Batwing I made... no can do Bru, sorry.
But it has to work, simply by deducing the path the air has to take in std form. Most will come from under the front of the seat, and this will be radiator-heated air too, less dense. Through the holes it will breath marginally cooler air because it sits a notch higher first of all, but also a bit more backward, less affected by the radiator(s). Those not having crammed batteries and why in the space under the seat - you, I think? - in the open 'gulley' between fender & airbox, and with the closed (or taped-up) sidecover would be better asked if they notice a difference.
I don't expect this to be a huge one though. Visible dust would prove that air's going through there - maybe try it yourself? I don't do large offroad trips yet, but you do, should be easy to find out.


JM,

come on now, just because the Boks do badly you're tuning me now Blue's not the colour to go for, and you want me to go for Pink? On the inside you mean? Erm, well, let's not go there here
Blue will do Bru, or black, seen that too but from a different source - more costly though, it's why I went for blue - like the Blue Bulls, after all I'm in Pretoria
Serious, zero colouring of my tank visible. I did expect that a bit to be honest, but no, on a rather translucent tank as you can see, so your red tanker won't be affected at all.
In the 70's already hmm? Well, doesn't surprise me, it works very well. During braking it seems more stable somehow, it feels a bit weird. Look, the fluid moves almost as per normal, just very controlled, zero quick sloshing, so I think it (of course) will move forward but it does so gradually, controlled, this contrary to jumping & bouncing there. Walk the bike, manoeuver it in the workshop, and you immediately find it is 'solid', quite funny actually. Like it!


Mung,

funny that you say that! I think I notice (since I put it in) a different reaction on quick throttle opening from idle. I have to investigate this anyway, and maybe change the low-opening jetting if I can't get it better by adjusting the accel-pump (got a TM40).
But I also put in the 2650 ignition module (2degs more advance, higher ceiling), and this bit I'm not very impressed with - yet? Will find out in due time, will report on.


Burnszilla,

I've got the exact same setup as you do. The Vapor you can mount to the 2 forward bolts from the barclamps (use 8mm longer bolts!) when you get the aluminium holder/adaptor from Trailtech.
At work now, no pics, will look once at home if I can't find a suitable pic for you.

As an aside, this setup requires you to get 3" longer cables - ALL of them, although the brakeline will depend on the headlight you use. Also, I found that the bar-height is still insufficient, and found perfectly-suited 32mm risers for it. Black anodized only which I will change to my colour, got the 'titanium' (blueish-silver) version. The 3' cables still are sufficient longer, I only need to find a longer brakeline.
Halt seems to have seized business, and Hel does not know the Pig, they ask loadsa funny questions and I'm hesitant to send them pics to explain - anybody knows a source for a 4" longer brakeline, including the proper protective sleeving etc?
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:25 AM   #9548
Sean-0
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I dont know what iv been doing for the last 2 months looking for the frame guards for my pig , i thought i even sent a email to B&B and they told me they no longer made them

well they do and here they are , i should see them in a few days

http://www.bboffroad.com.au/xr_650r.htm
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:18 AM   #9549
BuRPsa
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And, Sean, tell us how many X's that beer's name had?

Good on you, now you have to find an anodizer! Anodized alu is harder, you know that surely?


Brunszilla,

Piccie as promised. Be sure to put thickish washers under the 2 bolts, and those 2 are 8mm longer than the others.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:19 AM   #9550
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Mounted, hope it shows how & where it sits
Can you post up the original of the batwing ?

What did you hear about them?
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:02 PM   #9551
Sean-0
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Only 4 ,, hmm you know alot about our beer ......

What RDO's hve you got for eka Kasuyaho a ride may be nice mate ??
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:21 PM   #9552
cdogg44
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I've run a Baja Designs rewind in my XR650R for over a year since it came with the bike. However, I recently tried to wire my bike up with a DC side and an AC side for the headlight only and found that something is fried in my stator. After a few calls to BD and many tests with my Fluke it was finally decided upon that I send the stator in for a new rewind (for another cool $150, although Ryan at BD was very helpful and as nice as he could be about it).

Long story short I'm looking to just forget it and buy a Ricky Stator. No downtime (although it's been over 100F here for a month without a drop of rain and I haven't been on the pig for weeks), no extra shipping expenses, and I still get plenty of power.

Any downsides to the Ricky I should know about before I make the switch?

Thanks
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:22 AM   #9553
RideFreak
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Location: County Lockup, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdogg44 View Post
I've run a Baja Designs rewind in my XR650R for over a year since it came with the bike. However, I recently tried to wire my bike up with a DC side and an AC side for the headlight only and found that something is fried in my stator. After a few calls to BD and many tests with my Fluke it was finally decided upon that I send the stator in for a new rewind (for another cool $150, although Ryan at BD was very helpful and as nice as he could be about it).

Long story short I'm looking to just forget it and buy a Ricky Stator. No downtime (although it's been over 100F here for a month without a drop of rain and I haven't been on the pig for weeks), no extra shipping expenses, and I still get plenty of power.

Any downsides to the Ricky I should know about before I make the switch?

Thanks
The RS output is a little less (25W per output if the specs are correct) for $150 and no exchange it's a good deal, I sold the old stator for $60 so it ended up being very cheap

I've run it for 8K with no problems.
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
CL Adventure Ride 2013 /CL Revisited 2014 / 700 Miles of Scenic Utah Backcountry / MY VIDEOS
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:25 AM   #9554
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
Only 4 ,, hmm you know alot about our beer ......

What RDO's hve you got for eka Kasuyaho a ride may be nice mate ??
Were not working on Ekka, but i work RDO's.

Bikes in bits and will be for awhile is my guess.
Just doing those things on the bike list i could not do years ago.

There will be other times to ride i am sure
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:33 AM   #9555
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Cdogg, don't worry if one manufacturer says they have 25w more or whatever. That is just a sales gimmick derived from different testing procedures. Because of the physics involved, the only way to get more power is to use stronger magnets (new flywheel), or stuff more copper on the stator. Since my ricky stator is pretty packed with wire, I would assume the difference with the bd is little to none.

As companies go, I prefer ricky stator over bd. Just the outlandish cost of their dual headlight rack makes me not want to give them any business.

Besides, if the bd failed, it may be because they are using cheap wire. My rs has been going strong for over 6 abusive years with no problems.
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