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Old 06-20-2009, 08:40 PM   #1036
DRBImagery
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Location: Alberta Canada
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My new beast

Hi
Thought I would post a few shots of my BRP, bought it 2 months ago or so and it was a wreck. Tore it down to the frame and rebuilt it. Its not quite finished but its close






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Old 06-20-2009, 11:42 PM   #1037
jfn68
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Good work on the xr,like the dash set up!,ride and enjoy
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Old 06-21-2009, 02:35 AM   #1038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650Rking
What other mods have been already done to the bike? Everything greased? (swingarm and linkage are known to need extra from the factory if you don't know how much the previous owner did. As well as the steering stem bearings. Those are must...suspension need work if its stock and I'd assume certainly if going supermotard!

Tells us more about your bike...I'm sure we can fill your brain with mods!
The bike is basically brand new, it has about 350 miles on it. the oils been changed once and it still has it's original tires. so other then being uncorked and street legal, it is stock. I'll get some pictures up once my wheels come in next week.
I've read about the grease (or lack thereof) and plan on lubing everything up early next month. can the stock suspension be adjusted for (recreational) supermotard riding, or will it need to be replaced? I've seen the CRF inverted forks on the XRR, which I think looks great, but would require new triple clamps, axle, and hub, correct?
It's also important that I'm able to throw on my dirt wheels and take to the desert. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:04 AM   #1039
Ridin Dirty
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nice fairiing

DRBImagery...can you tell us more about the fairing. Is it from an African Twin or aftermarket? Nice dash!
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:58 AM   #1040
DRBImagery
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin Dirty
DRBImagery...can you tell us more about the fairing. Is it from an African Twin or aftermarket? Nice dash!
The fairing comes from a company in the UK called Simpson Detour. This company was a pleasure to deal with, especially a gent named Neil. The fairing is not specific to the XR and does not work with the big Acerbis tank with out some modification that is easily done, it comes with a simple dash panel as well but I took their idea and improved on it. I bought the kit less lights and they gave me a better price, then I added 2 x 5 3/4" halogens, I have taken out in the dirt to test it a few times and it works very well so far. I think I paid including shipping from the UK and the 2 halogens around 290.00 Cdn dollars, a steal if you ask me.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:50 PM   #1041
JustinT OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperMurdo
can the stock suspension be adjusted for (recreational) supermotard riding, or will it need to be replaced? I've seen the CRF inverted forks on the XRR, which I think looks great, but would require new triple clamps, axle, and hub, correct?
It's also important that I'm able to throw on my dirt wheels and take to the desert. Thanks again for the help.
I don't know much about the ideal Supermotard suspension. I adjusted mine as a Dirtbike on the street. The stock suspension is set for some light weights and this bike does attract bigger guys. Check out the bottom of http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_forks.htm and there is a chart about stock spring weighs the ideal rider weight. I don't know your size so stock springs may be fine...BUT

if the fork oil hasn't been change do so! The fluid (if you can call it oil) from the factory has been known to be kind of cloudy as if it was contaminated or broken down? (My Previous owner changed it so I never saw it) But has been known to cause possible rust or corrosion on internal parts...so no matter what if it hasn't been done...drain VERY WELL the fluid and replace and that will also stiffen it up some.

What does a Supermotard look for in suspension?

the USD forks look good but adding a fork brace to these forks goes a long ways in stiffening them up and some even say are comprable to USD? (I DON"T KNOW THIS FOR SURE...I don't run inverted or have a brace. but I'll get a brace as soon as I see a good deal used one on Ebay!)
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:47 PM   #1042
kan3
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For Motard suspension you should start with a rider sag 27-30% of total travel range and see if that works for you. For this bike that is about 75-85mm.

I'm 136lbs and with gear on I get about 60-65mm of sag in the front with stock springs and I'm able to get the 75-80mm in the rear I was aiming for.
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:55 PM   #1043
SuperMurdo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kan3
For Motard suspension you should start with a rider sag 27-30% of total travel range and see if that works for you. For this bike that is about 75-85mm.

I'm 136lbs and with gear on I get about 60-65mm of sag in the front with stock springs and I'm able to get the 75-80mm in the rear I was aiming for.
I weigh just under 200 with full gear on, currently I just have the suspension cranked as stiff as it will go so that it's not really diving in corners. I plan on softening it up a bit this weekend when I have my new wheels on and some time to fiddle, it's nice to have numbers to reference. thanks again king, and thank you kan.

Devin
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SuperMurdo screwed with this post 06-22-2009 at 04:42 PM
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:26 PM   #1044
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Edelbrock tuning at altitude

I just put an Edelbrock on my pig and I'm still tuning it and I am starting to like what I'm seeing. I experienced the famous stuck fuel inlet valve cutoff during a ride a couple of weeks ago and then adjusted the float to ride higher and also smoothed out the brass fuel inlet valve mechanism. I haven't seen the issue since. However my idle is a little weird it seems to hang high for a bit and then come back down. If I start the bike while it's hot with no pump squirt the idle is really low.

Can a float that's too high cause this? I haven't seen it spill but that is hard to see when one is riding. It never spills when I move the bike around. It seems to have started when I went one click leaner but I don't have any popping when decelerating. Bike pulls quite hard, better than with the stock carb I'd say.

Other issue is when I whack the throttle open from very low engine speeds. If rpms are way low the bike just burbles and wants to stall and recovers when when I close the throttle. If I let rpms come up just a bit more then the bikes takes off like a banshee. Pump shot too small or too big? In higher gears like 4th or 5th and if I whack the throttle from low rpm I get this or a bog and then good acceleration. The manual says this means the pump is too big but when I adjust down performance seems to be reduced.

Last time I checked the plug it was definitely rich. I went a click leaner and things did seem better. I haven't checked the plug since.

Bike is uncorked. Competition intake manifold, HRC tip, side cover is cut out. Valves just adjusted and are spot on. Clean UNI air filter.
altitude is 5500 feet.
17e needle
16 clicks out from rich
pump is around 3 turns out from full rich, although I'm still trying to get this right.

Any ideas? I'm going to try another click lean but I am wondering if the 16e needle would actually be better for Colorado riding with a stock uncorked bike.
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:21 AM   #1045
stinkfinger
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I run my edelbrock at 9 turns out with 17e needle.
Ya I know its outta the spec
range but it seems to run perfect.No coughs,bogs,decel pops or
fouled plugs and easy starts.
Even had it mounted on another
650r as the owner was not happy with his edelbrock performance
and it ran like a scalded dog.He was surprised at the difference
even with 2 supposedly identical carbs.

Tony
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:10 AM   #1046
Crit Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkfinger
I run my edelbrock at 9 turns out with 17e needle.
Ya I know its outta the spec
range but it seems to run perfect.No coughs,bogs,decel pops or
fouled plugs and easy starts.
Even had it mounted on another
650r as the owner was not happy with his edelbrock performance
and it ran like a scalded dog.He was surprised at the difference
even with 2 supposedly identical carbs.

Tony
Thanks.

Different elevations but that kind of validates my theory that it might be better on a stock uncorked bike to go to a leaner needle with a richer click setting.

The needles get richer as the throttle is opened more so this might not be the case with a bike that has high flow headers and maybe a cam but I don't have those things on my bike and as much as a cam and a nice header would be I don't think I want to pay for it.

Any one run a 16e needle at elevation? Dennis Kirk has them...
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:46 AM   #1047
4play
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I'm running the 16 needle from 600' to 8000' with no issues.
I do have a Stage 1 cam & FMF header. I like the way my bike runs, but the money on the header & cam was not the best money I spent.
I like the carb once dialed in, but believe an FCR is better once tuned. Mine winds up a bit rich at low speeds/idle when properly tuned for max power. My bike normally starts 1st kick & I have picked it up still running a couple of times.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:26 AM   #1048
Crit Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4play
I'm running the 16 needle from 600' to 8000' with no issues.
I do have a Stage 1 cam & FMF header. I like the way my bike runs, but the money on the header & cam was not the best money I spent.
I like the carb once dialed in, but believe an FCR is better once tuned. Mine winds up a bit rich at low speeds/idle when properly tuned for max power. My bike normally starts 1st kick & I have picked it up still running a couple of times.

Interesting that the 16e needle is good for you as low as 600 feet. Have you done any cut outs on the side of your air box? I saw a Thumpertalk post where Rob Barnum comments that this a must for the Eddle. It did help mine.

I think you are right about ending up rich in the low end if tuned for max power, that's what I've seen posted by others and am experiencing myself. I agree (now) that the FCR is likely better but I've learned a lot by installing the Edle and tuning it, even if it is an easy to tune carb. I'm going to have to try and ride someone elses to see what running right really feels like in the real world vs. what I am expecting. My expectations are based off Fuel injected car engines so I'm not sure if I'm being realistic or not.
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:38 AM   #1049
4play
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I do have some screened holes in the airbox lid. We have to pass emissions test here in Phx AZ, I have to lean mine out about 6-8 clicks from best performance to sniff clean. Basically I lean it out until it's running ragged at idle. I initially tried turning it lean until it stumbled & back rich until it smoothed out, but that was about two clicks too rich for the test.
I have no complaints, it's a simple, easy to setup carb.
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:50 AM   #1050
Crit Rat
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Well I think I've gotten the 'Brock tuned much better now.

These bikes are fricking monsters when they are set up right. I've been very meticulous with all the details and it seems to have paid off. I've always loved this bike but the pumper carb just transforms it.

I was saving $$$ for a KTM 525 or 530 but I'm thinking that now I will keep the BRP around for awhile. It's time to upgrade the lighting and electrics though. I think the Trail Tech X2 HID and some LED blinkers along with an upgraded stator will be just the ticket.

What's the best stator? Moose, Ricky Stator, Electex, Electrosport, Baja Designs rewind?

I think I'm going to get some fuel foam as well for the IMS 4.6 gallon tank. Any one else stuff foam in either the Clark or IMS 4 + gallon tank? I think that will be another step in making the big FEEL a bit lighter.
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