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Old 12-11-2011, 07:33 AM   #11686
Johnny55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmnate View Post
I ran the Dunlop 908rr and got about 3500 miles on it. 2300 of those in Baja. And on top of that, it was used by Johna Street to pre-run a section for the 2009 Dakar. It doesn't have the best traction but it does last. It actually kind if sucks in mud. My only real get off was in the mud. I was light on the throttle and it just started swaping ends. I got about 2.5 swaps before I laid it down. It also has great road manners. I would still be running one if they weren't $160. I'm currently running the Kenda Trackmaster. I have about 1200 miles and are pretty much done. I can probably get a few more miles of street riding, but that's about it.

Nate

Nate


Thatnks for the reply. I am still trying to justify the $160+ price tag of the 908RR but then again the Michelin was $150! Of course we are all looking for a tire that hooks up well and lasts 3000 miles! I think if we want a tire that lasts more then 1500 miles then the traction is the first sacrific.







Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost_Mutant View Post
Hmmmmmmmmm, how much to reveal right now????

.

I got ya. I see what you are trying to do now. Have you looked up the Honda part number to see if they match? You could do the same for the basket and drum too. Good luck with this project. Hopefully there is a viable option for you.





Quote:
Originally Posted by brad21 View Post
Dunlop MX71. They won't die and much better hook-up than a worn out 908rr.

Now is the MX71 DOT? I screwed up on the MT16 as it is not DOT and I had to hit a 35 mile section of 65MPH pavement. That was the begining of the end for the MT16. In under 300 miles it was seriously screwed!

This picture was taken when the tire had less then 300 miles on it. I only have about 700 on the tire now and it is completely bald! Not only did it wear extremely fast, I had punctures due to the thin and soft carcass of this tire. I liked the durability of the Desert but it lacked very good traction. I am leaning towards the 908RR. I may try the 606.

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Old 12-11-2011, 08:02 AM   #11687
M.A.G.
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Handlebar clamp/Tank clearance

Just installed a Clarke 4.3, and my handlebar clamps ( top ) are banging the tank at full turn. Any Clarke owners fixed this issue with a set of new clamps? What did you get?
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:06 AM   #11688
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The MX71 is not a DOT tire, but I can almost guarantee you it won't chunk like that. I rode a bunch of pavement this summer with mine and this fall did a 24 hour race with the same tires! (mainly because I was too rushed and poor to swap them out)



After 1000 miles of Oregon desert with a couple hundred of slabbage thrown in:



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Old 12-11-2011, 08:16 AM   #11689
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I can handle a tire that looks like that after 1000-1200 miles! I am thinking that the MX71 might be my next tire. I LOVE my Desert front. It has worn great and handles awesome, in my opinion. Thanks for the input!
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:34 AM   #11690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Well maybe I'm thinking too simplistic but if the primary gearing is 30% lower and the clutch basket and whatnot is the same then maybe you could just change the xr650l to the xr650r primary gears. I am going to go out on a limb and guess that honda may have changed it due to development and used similar pieces. They might even interchange because if honda didn't have a reason to design a new clutch then how much else is common in the drivetrain?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny55
I got ya. I see what you are trying to do now. Have you looked up the Honda part number to see if they match? You could do the same for the basket and drum too. Good luck with this project. Hopefully there is a viable option for you.
I have been studying the parts fiche to get a clue on parts interchange. Although the fine details are missing from the fiche, there is enough there that I'll predict that the primary gearing won't swap. I also doubt that the shaft center to center distance is the same. But even if they were, it would still require a custom gear on the crank shaft from what little I can tell.

From looking at photos on the net, it would appear that the frictions are almost the same with the XR650R having shorter tabs. So I can't rule out a swap for the auto clutch itself. Which is why I posted my original question.

If the auto clutch would swap, then that leaves finding a way to make the moving wedges heavier by 20-30%. And that is probably where this thought experiment ends. There is so little room for those wedges already. If the wedges are already made out of steel, then I don't think much can be done. There doesn't appear to be enough room to drill holes in the wedges and pour in some lead

So, I'll be looking for a used Revloc I suppose. That or look for a more modern bike to ride on difficult trails. Neither appeals to me at the moment.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:50 AM   #11691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost_Mutant View Post
I have been studying the parts fiche to get a clue on parts interchange. Although the fine details are missing from the fiche, there is enough there that I'll predict that the primary gearing won't swap. I also doubt that the shaft center to center distance is the same. But even if they were, it would still require a custom gear on the crank shaft from what little I can tell.

From looking at photos on the net, it would appear that the frictions are almost the same with the XR650R having shorter tabs. So I can't rule out a swap for the auto clutch itself. Which is why I posted my original question.

If the auto clutch would swap, then that leaves finding a way to make the moving wedges heavier by 20-30%. And that is probably where this thought experiment ends. There is so little room for those wedges already. If the wedges are already made out of steel, then I don't think much can be done. There doesn't appear to be enough room to drill holes in the wedges and pour in some lead

So, I'll be looking for a used Revloc I suppose. That or look for a more modern bike to ride on difficult trails. Neither appeals to me at the moment.


Make the wedges out of depleted Uranium.... That should be heavy enough. Have you thought about trying out a hydraulic clutch setup or is that still something that you would not be able to actuate for very long? What year and model of XR are you trying to use the XR650R plates in? I ask just because I will help you look around for specs to see if the plates will interchange.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:59 AM   #11692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny55 View Post
Make the wedges out of depleted Uranium....
or 24kt gold? But seriously, it might be worth buying a new friction plate from each bike to inspect, as they are pretty cheap, and you can get an accurate thickness, surface texture, etc. that you can't be sure of with a used one.

What if you went a different route and tried to do something crazy like rigging up some sort of clutch pedal maybe on your right heel? Maybe on the right toe to the right of the brake pedal, no big deal if you have to hit the clutch to hit the brake. Might even be fairly straight forward to mount the existing clutch lever down there somewhere and route the oem cable around somehow.
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XRx screwed with this post 12-11-2011 at 09:05 AM
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:04 AM   #11693
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A quick part number search for the XR650R friction plates shows that they are the same for 00-07 650R and the same discs are used in the 11-12 CRF450R. Now that doesnt mean they will NOT fit the 600, just that they havent got the same part number. The plates fit over 100 different bikes/year models. GB500 to the XR650. L model and R and a whole lot more. You already knew this but I figured that It wouldn't hurt know for sure myself.

This makes me want to pull my side cover off and do some measuring! I will look around more and see if I can come across some better specs, maybe with some measurements.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:07 AM   #11694
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Originally Posted by XRx View Post
But seriously, it might be worth buying a new friction plate from each bike to inspect, as they are pretty cheap, and you can get an accurate thickness, surface texture, etc. that you can't be sure of with a used one.?


You bring up a good point, Maybe going to the Honda dealer and seeing if they have a disc from each bike to compare. I know when I try to do strange things with parts that do not belong to my bike the dealer is always eager to know what I am up to and if they can help. Maybe it is just my dealer but it is worth a try. Go see if they have a clutch pack for each of the 2 bikes and have a look-see at them.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:04 AM   #11695
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For photos of my very old RFVCs check out this post.

I should say that I don't know for a fact why Rekluse had problems with the auto clutch in their test XR650L. The only mention was in the vendor forum where something about the primary gearing prevented the clutch from working properly. The rest is speculation on my part.

Other than some changes to the primary gearing, the clutch designs between the 83 RFVC and all the other RFVCs up to the XR650L is very similar. There are some changes to buffering springs in the basket between the years.

If anybody here gets the Rekluse EXP for their XRR, I would sure like to hear about it

Regarding modifying the existing clutch, I have considered changing/modding the length of the pivot lever on the stator cover to make it adjustable. It seems to me that I have a bunch of extra clutch travel that I could exchange for an easier pull.

I replaced my clutch perch on my 84 with a Flanders copy of the XRR perch with the combo decomp lever. That freed up some space on the bars for my turn signal/headlight/horn switch. I don't think the leverage point on the Flanders perch is any different from my stock Honda perch.

Don't know how a hydraulic clutch would work since I haven't ridden a bike equipped with it since I got the nerve damage in my hands. As it is right now, I must put the bike in neutral at some of the longer stoplights on my work commute. Otherwise my hand will start to cramp up. It is annoying, but I'm very thankful to be here typing this message to you.............the alternative was 6ft under.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:18 PM   #11696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost_Mutant View Post
As it is right now, I must put the bike in neutral at some of the longer stoplights on my work commute.
I think you want to do that for the sketchy clutch bushing anyway. You don't want the bike stopped in gear clutch in. Naturally you may still want the auto clutch or other solution, but that shouldn't be the issue, it's bad for this bike to be stopped in gear with the clutch disengaged for any period of time.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:58 PM   #11697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRx View Post
What if you went a different route and tried to do something crazy like rigging up some sort of clutch pedal maybe on your right heel? Maybe on the right toe to the right of the brake pedal, no big deal if you have to hit the clutch to hit the brake. Might even be fairly straight forward to mount the existing clutch lever down there somewhere and route the oem cable around somehow.
I like that idea. A foot clutch would probably be interesting. I would swap to left hand rear brake, right foot clutch, and left foot shift. It wouldn't be any weirder than 50s bikes!

Alternately how about a lever for a clutch like the "chopper" guys use. Just put a four foot bar sticking up off your frame to push on the clutch master.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:24 PM   #11698
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This makes me wonder how many people if any, have problems with the old and/or new clutch bushing seizing up due to the use of any of the auto clutch kits.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:31 PM   #11699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.A.G. View Post
Just installed a Clarke 4.3, and my handlebar clamps ( top ) are banging the tank at full turn. Any Clarke owners fixed this issue with a set of new clamps? What did you get?

Yeah, mine does the same thing. I'm mostly riding desert and I think I rarely turn to full stop. I did notice my throttle cables get "pinched" between the tank and clamp.

Also, this is my 2nd 4.3 and the first didn't do this. Maybe a new shape or ?
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:32 PM   #11700
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My 4.3 clarke is close but doesn't hit. My bike has aftermarket triples, I think they are Scotts clamps, but not 100% sure.
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