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Old 03-14-2012, 10:16 AM   #12541
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
i never yell at an xrr, i beg and plead.
+1
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:23 AM   #12542
BuRPsa
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Rather than editing I add to my above post.
I hunch Fox's bike is set too rich, as this is always the easiest to do.
Even with correct jetting of the idle system it's very easy to adjust completely wrong, so in addition to the above, here's what you should do to get thing as correct as you're able to:

Idle the (already warm!) engine, and turn the slide-screw (the slide stopper) down until it almost dies.
Then turn the mixture screw in or out until it almost dies even more - the trick is of course to keep it alive.
Do this both ways (in & out), and determine what is the \middle' of these two settings.. and set it there.
Chances are that the revs will increase now, so re-adjust down (with the stopper-screw of course) until it almost dies again.
Repeat above.
If this gives you the magic 1.5 turns from closed then the idling circuit is OK.
If too far off you better change jets.
Ah yes, eventually you adjust the stopper-screw up a bit to obtain the correct idling rev's - which you determine by ear rather than revcounter. Know that plenty of owner's manuals prescribe ludicrously high idling revs, I assume to allow dorks to drive/ride off too.
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Old 03-14-2012, 04:24 PM   #12543
tannerc
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Compression stack HELP

I have my comp stack all apart and was looking at the Borynack fork files, the part im having a question with is the two washers at the very bottom of the stack 18mm x .5mm. do these get reinstalled? if you look at the word document he photos them side by side not in line with the other shims.
http://www.borynack.com/xr650r/HondaXR650Rforks.doc
the first pic in that document after it says "brain surgery" in red.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1162935...81608594977282



Anyone have a clue on this? whether or not to reinstall the 2 18mm x .5mm washers or just start out with the 11mm x .10 mm washer?
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:26 PM   #12544
Gildus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I never yell at an XRR, I beg and plead.
Now that I'm adding farkles, my pig has gotten proud and takes offense when shouted at, particularly when addressed with the prefiix "m.f..ing," followed by any of the following: cob roller, hog, piggy, piglet, porker, porky, sow or swine. I've modified my starting sequence accordingly...
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:40 PM   #12545
NMZens
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedoJosh View Post
NMZens, what kind of forks are on your XR?
'03 CR250 forks resprung for a fat piggy. Eming clamps. Prolly misspelt cause we're getting "salty" at he Salty Dog in Maggie NC after crossing over the Smokeys today. I'll prolly do a build write up but not tonight!!!
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:52 PM   #12546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I have my comp stack all apart and was looking at the Borynack fork files, the part im having a question with is the two washers at the very bottom of the stack 18mm x .5mm. do these get reinstalled? if you look at the word document he photos them side by side not in line with the other shims.
http://www.borynack.com/xr650r/HondaXR650Rforks.doc
the first pic in that document after it says "brain surgery" in red.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1162935...81608594977282



Anyone have a clue on this? whether or not to reinstall the 2 18mm x .5mm washers or just start out with the 11mm x .10 mm washer?
Document for me doesn't show pictures and I forget what I did.

There is some removal of spacers on the forks or shock. Just can't remember. I believe it was the shock though to allow for threads on the damper rod.

Can you post a picture of your stack and point out the spacers?
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:02 PM   #12547
tannerc
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Can you post a picture of your stack and point out the spacers?









tannerc screwed with this post 03-15-2012 at 10:12 AM
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:11 PM   #12548
lstzephyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jungle Man View Post
Interesting, I never thought to yell anything at the bike that wasn't a profanity. I'll have to try it sometime.
My bike is nicknamed after a female dog because everytime it is hesitant to start I yell out "Start bitch!". At one point my friend was having a discussion about naming bikes and when I said I don't name my vehicles my friend told me that I already had a name for it because I am always yelling at it. I guess the name stuck.

Another question for the guy with starting issues. Are you sure you are turning the choke the right direction? They are a bit backwards from most bikes. Down is open, up is closed.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #12549
chrish4ku
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
My bike is nicknamed after a female dog because everytime it is hesitant to start I yell out "Start bitch!"

Another question for the guy with starting issues. Are you sure you are turning the choke the right direction? They are a bit backwards from most bikes.

HAHAHA - I did that once and walked my bike home 2 miles...DUHHHHH!
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:56 PM   #12550
Ironwood
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This might sound odd, but my understanding of Mikuni carbs is that the choke circuit does not function unless the slide is almost bottomed out in the barrel. I think the the stock Keihin carb works the same. If I am having trouble getting the bike to start when very cold I back the idle screw off and give it full choke. It usually starts within 4 or 5 kicks. If I don't do this it won't always start.

The reason they work this way has to do with creating a vacuum ahead of the slide and pulling fuel through the enrichening circuit. If the slide is set too high not enough vacuum is created and the mix stays too lean.


Someone correct me if I am wrong. I used to be a decent Mikuni tuner on 2-smokes and it seems to work on the XRR as well. Joe
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:33 PM   #12551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrish4ku View Post
HAHAHA - I did that once and walked my bike home 2 miles...DUHHHHH!

Me, usually after yelling at it calling any generic bike a bitch for not starting, is followed by about ten minutes of kicking while apologetic begging, which ultimately saves me from pushing it home. Your results may vary!
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Old 03-14-2012, 11:06 PM   #12552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
This might sound odd, but my understanding of Mikuni carbs is that the choke circuit does not function unless the slide is almost bottomed out in the barrel. I think the the stock Keihin carb works the same. If I am having trouble getting the bike to start when very cold I back the idle screw off and give it full choke. It usually starts within 4 or 5 kicks. If I don't do this it won't always start.

The reason they work this way has to do with creating a vacuum ahead of the slide and pulling fuel through the enrichening circuit. If the slide is set too high not enough vacuum is created and the mix stays too lean.


Someone correct me if I am wrong. I used to be a decent Mikuni tuner on 2-smokes and it seems to work on the XRR as well. Joe
I never touch my idle on the TM-40.

Choke only when quite cold. Normally two pumps of the pumper gets it fired up.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:08 AM   #12553
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
This might sound odd, but my understanding of Mikuni carbs is that the choke circuit does not function unless the slide is almost bottomed out in the barrel. I think the the stock Kehin carb works the same. If I am having trouble getting the bike to start when very cold I back the idle screw off and give it full choke. It usually starts within 4 or 5 kicks. If I don't do this it won't always start.

The reason they work this way has to do with creating a vacuum ahead of the slide and pulling fuel through the enrichening circuit. If the slide is set too high not enough vacuum is created and the mix stays too lean.


Someone correct me if I am wrong. I used to be a decent Mikuni tuner on 2-smokes and it seems to work on the XRR as well. Joe
Mikunis have an enrichener whereas the stock Kehin has a real choke (obstructs the carb throat) They operate completely different. I can't comment on idle screw position, both my Kehin and the TM40 seems to react normally to being choked, when the motor is cold they both require the choke. I read some stuff on the xr400 forum about this (adj the idle for cold starts) but I have an xr400 also and it needs choked when cold. I have to think the mix is rich if no choke is required cold, ESP since my xr usally starts first kick choked cold. Many bikes are running around jetted fat on the pilot circuit and the owners don't realize it. Fuel mileage when doing an easy DS ride is a pretty good indicator, 45mpg is fairly typical and 50 isn't unheard of. Each machine is slightly different, results may vary
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:08 AM   #12554
crypto666
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I can't remember and my notes are in my tool box, but try this http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/809...to-share-info/


Quote:
Originally Posted by tannerc View Post
I have my comp stack all apart and was looking at the Borynack fork files, the part im having a question with is the two washers at the very bottom of the stack 18mm x .5mm. do these get reinstalled? if you look at the word document he photos them side by side not in line with the other shims.
http://www.borynack.com/xr650r/HondaXR650Rforks.doc
the first pic in that document after it says "brain surgery" in red.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1162935...81608594977282



Anyone have a clue on this? whether or not to reinstall the 2 18mm x .5mm washers or just start out with the 11mm x .10 mm washer?
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:46 AM   #12555
dohcfox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Another question for the guy with starting issues. Are you sure you are turning the choke the right direction? They are a bit backwards from most bikes. Down is open, up is closed.
Yep, I keep the lever down, thus keeping the choke off. I even checked it out when I had the carb off while cleaning the bike up after I purchased it.
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