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Old 04-24-2012, 08:01 PM   #12961
Transrider5587
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 52
Swing Arm Tool

Does anyone have a swing arm tool I could buy or rent????? My BRP swing arm is in need of a check.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:09 PM   #12962
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transrider5587 View Post
Does anyone have a swing arm tool I could buy or rent????? My BRP swing arm is in need of a check.

Build your own with a couple cheap sockets. Well worth the time.

I borrow my buddies, so I guess I can't exactly make the above statement, but his sure do work well!
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:16 PM   #12963
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Transrider5587 View Post
Does anyone have a swing arm tool I could buy or rent????? My BRP swing arm is in need of a check.
If you don't have some old sockets or the tools to make some I would be willing to whip up a pair for some beer money. I've made a few sets before.

To the guys talking about valves earlier and anyone who is curious, my valves were pretty toast at the mileage my bike had on it. I got lucky that the cam chain started making racket before the valve dropped.

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Old 04-25-2012, 12:10 AM   #12964
bamfslap
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What kind of sounds was your cam chain making? My engine's a little noisy. Also, what happens when you "drop a valve"? Kaboom? EDIT: I googled it. Ouch.

I'm a noob. Lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Build your own with a couple cheap sockets. Well worth the time.

I borrow my buddies, so I guess I can't exactly make the above statement, but his sure do work well!
Is there a guide to doing this? Or could someone briefly explain how to?
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:34 AM   #12965
slogger
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Swingarm sockets. I could use a set also.
If someone is willing to make them, I'm in.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:36 PM   #12966
Agent2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
What kind of sounds was your cam chain making? My engine's a little noisy. Also, what happens when you "drop a valve"? Kaboom? EDIT: I googled it. Ouch.

I'm a noob. Lol.


Is there a guide to doing this? Or could someone briefly explain how to?
The Pig Pen has a "how to" for the sockets. http://www.xr650r.us/preload/
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:14 PM   #12967
bamfslap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slogger View Post
Swingarm sockets. I could use a set also.
If someone is willing to make them, I'm in.
Depending on the price, I might be in as well.

My bikes been sitting a while as I don't want to ride it until I inspect the bearings. Oh and a cracked rim. She begs to be rode. :(


Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent2 View Post
The Pig Pen has a "how to" for the sockets. http://www.xr650r.us/preload/
Thanks! Seems pretty simple, but I don't know if I could pull it off with my grinder. I wonder if my dad has a dremel...
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:58 PM   #12968
XRx
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Location: Bruins Territory
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Yup, I hated that thing. It'd heat sink the entire bike until you couldn't stand to be on the thing.

Shibby, just trying to point out that you're throwing away perfectly good oil at 2,000km. You're not hurting anything except your wallet, so go with it if it's what you want.

All this oil talk combined with my curiousity on reasonable oil change intervals since I'm not racing my bike across the desert, I wanted to see for myself. So I just did a little experiment to compare viscosities of new vs very used oil (I was quite over-due, well over 1k mi., quite dark). I believe it to be quite close to scientific, based on some work experience I had a couple of decades age, testing among other things, fluid viscosity.

So I took a new quart of honda bike 10w-30. I drilled a hole or orifice in the cap, with the bit that was already in the drill that looked good, I think it was a .263 according to my cheap HFT vernier. Then I put my finger over the hole, flipped it upside down, and drilled two more holes in the bottom of the quart bottle, figuring twice the cross section area of air flow vs oil flow through one orifice should take pressure differential out of the equation. So I took my kitchen clock outside (because it has a second hand) and I drained that quart of new oil through that drilled cap, and it took about 45 seconds.

So then I changed my oil. Old oil was pretty dark. I used the same cap on another quart bottle, since the two holes in the other bottle would have been problematic, obviously. But I used the same cap. Filled the 2nd bottle with a quart of the dark, old, overused oil. Finger over the hole, flipped the bottle over, drilled two more holes in the bottom, now top, of that bottle, removed my finger and timed it.

To my great surprise, the very old oil also took about 45 seconds. I was expecting 30 or less seconds, but it was basically identical.

So my conclusion, which I'd be very glad for some critical feedback of my experiment, but my conclusion is that the contamination of the oil is the driver for oil change on this bike, not viscosity breakdown. Well that's for my commuting anyway. Haven't ridden off-road much admittedly, partly because I didn't have my new off-road gearing sprockets all in hand until a couple days ago, and so dirt wheels couldn't be used yet with good off-road gearing.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:32 PM   #12969
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
What kind of sounds was your cam chain making? My engine's a little noisy. Also, what happens when you "drop a valve"? Kaboom? EDIT: I googled it. Ouch.

I'm a noob. Lol.


Is there a guide to doing this? Or could someone briefly explain how to?
The cam chain sounded like someone was pounding on the cases with a sledgehammer. Trust me you would stop if you heard it! I think the sound was from the back chain slider slapping on the chain "lifter". The xrr is always noisy but this was above and beyond normal.

The aforementioned xr650r.us guide is how I have done mine before. I will put up some pics of what I am talking about later for those of you that asked me about them. I am not talking about anything more than some old cut up sockets and I wouldn't charge much more than 15-20 for them. But don't expect anything beautiful. I happen to have access to a shop right now but it hasn't always been like that so I don't mind helping others that don't have access to the tools to make their own tools.

I wouldn't recommend a dremel as sockets are pretty hard. You are much better off going out and buying a cheap die grinder if you want to make your own. A 4 1/2 inch angle grinder might work but the wheel size might limit you.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:40 PM   #12970
SwellsRides
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Baltimore, MD
Oddometer: 172
Still trying to get her legal!

Hello gang!

I have recently picked up a 2000 XR650R SM, but have really yet to ride it! It had the Baja Designs E-Start added, and the Baja Designs 200 W stator added over a year ago, but was never fully wired, and then it sat for over a year. She started on the 3rd kick after sitting (after fresh fuel and oil of course!) and now starts on one kick.

However, it has the Trick Dual sport kit on it, and I am not having any luck getting everything wired up so the lights and brake lights etc work to pass inspection in MD. So I just dropped some cash and bought the BD dual sport kit, and hope to wire it up this weekend!! Any suggestions on the best way would be great, as I am not so gud wit the lectricity! Here is a quick photo of how she looked before, and I'll post after photos when she is done! Looking forward to drinking the Kool Aid and learning from you kats! Any info on the best way to navigate the MD inspection would be very welcome as well.



Below is a list of some of the mods that I remember so far:

- HRC power up kit (dynoed at 50+ RWHP before any carb tweaking)
- Edelbrock pumper carb (& stock oem carb)
- K&N pod filter w/filtercharger skin & custom intake pipe (& brand new oem airbox / filter)
- Moriwaki stainless steel full-system. Also have a ceramic coated & heat wrapped headers w/ Yoshimura RS-3 slip-on muffler.
- 17 inch Behr wheels laced to gold Talon hubs
- Avon Distanzia tires (160R,120F)
- Motomaster Pro Kit 320mm front brake kit (4 piston caliper and rotor)
- Stainless Steel & spare OEM front brake lines
- Wave rear disk brake
- Stiffer front fork & rear Eibach shock springs by Lindemann Engineering (& spare OEM springs)
- Koubalinks on rear suspension linkage
- SRC billet fork brace with black SRC fork guards
- IMS 4.6 gal. tank (& OEM stock tank)
- Trick Dual Sport street legal kit (hi/lo headlight, brake lights, horn & bar mounted mirror)
- LED tail light (new & not installed yet)
- TrailTech Endurance computer w/billet mount/protector cage
- Black Acerbis Supermoto fender (& spare trimmed OEM front fender)
- Black painted side panels w/ vented air box cover side (& a brand new set of spare black side panels)
- IMS wide footpegs
- 15/45 gearing w/new DID x-ring 520 chain & spare sprockets (14, 40 & 48 teeth)
- SRC & OEM case savers (not installed)
- Factory Connection radiator guards
- Cycra Pro-Bend hand guards (these mount to the triple clamps) and aluminum handlebar
- XRs only ignition switch/key kit
- XRs Only oil temp dipstick
- XRs Only higher temp radiator cap
- XRs Only tool pouch mounted on rear fender
- Aluminum braced rear fender
- F&R wheel crash mushrooms
- Baja Designs electric start kit & 250w rewound stator.

So I may have some pieces and parts to sell after I get her going and realize what I need and do not need. I know I have the original seat, tank, stock carb, etc that I could sell to help pay for the other mods it might need for Maryland Inspection. May need to pick up a set of off road wheels too!!

Thanks guys, and look forward to sharing with you more in the future!
Steve
"Swells"


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Joined: 2012-02-19
Posts: 3
Location: Baltimore, MD
XR650R Year: 2000


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Old 04-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #12971
pigpen
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Welcome

Welcome to the Asylum SwellsRides! Nice looking scoot! i'm not so good w/ electricity either, so I'm no help, but look in the xr650 electricity thread!
Here ya go :
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...50+electricity
You'll get it sorted soon!
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:21 PM   #12972
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post


What did you end up doing for the repair? I've never done any valve work on an engine.

As for oil usage, maybe we should do some experiments. Anybody willing to report their ride duration and test their oil? Costs about 10$.

If not, I will this summer when I get back with mine. That way it can be verified with a lab. I can test dirt usage, and highway usage since I both trial ride and dual sport my bike.
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Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 04-25-2012, 10:04 PM   #12973
Capt. Egregious
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Location: Where the sewer meets the sea, Edmonds Wa
Oddometer: 376
Fender suport?

What are you guys using to stiffen up the rear fender? I don't remove any of the dual sport stuff when racing so the rear fender is taking a beating. The wiring has been ripped off and the license plate is getting tattered by the tire. The weight of the BD tail light and plate holder seem to be to much for the stock fender. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #12974
Yippee Ki-Yay
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Swing arm tool for beer money? Me 3!
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:38 PM   #12975
tijuana
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Capt, I just screwed my plate directly on to the rear fender and put the BajaDesigns light and wiring and stuffed it in a factory lens that the fender has the indentation for. It is clean and light, walked to the dumpster and dropped in the BD lamp housing/ plate in the trash.
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