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Old 08-06-2012, 02:31 PM   #13966
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Has anyone had luck making the swing arm tool, as referenced here on the pigpen? http://www.xr650r.us/preload/
I have made quite a few of the tools. I found the best method was to take the cut off wheel and remove vertical bits at a time instead of trying to cut horizontal. I made a batch of around 10-12 not long ago for some inmates and I would be willing to do a couple more if anyone doesn't have the tools to do it themselves. It really is not difficult however. The first set I made a few years ago were crap and worked just fine. There is a guy on ebay making some nice machined ones as well which gives you another option.

On the swingarm bearings- Don't bother with a press. Just get a good solid bench vise, a socket that fits the bearings and a big hammer. Pound it out like it owes you money and they should loosen up. I had to heat them as well but my bearings came out as dust so they were pretty stuck. When reinstalling the new bearings use the socket on the thin side of the bearing. If you hit the thicker shoulder it will bend and be junk. Trust me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ.. View Post
Hi guys...

I am getting this ready on the 2nd XRR.



Nice! I always liked the looks of those africa queens fairings.

lstzephyr screwed with this post 08-06-2012 at 02:43 PM
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:49 PM   #13967
aaronp1264
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2 Quick questions my esteemed colleagues,

1. Just noticed how crappy my rear sprocket looks. I think I might not have gotten it lined up last time I adjusted chain tension. I heard a reference to a tool that ensures that the wheel is mounted straight, anyone know what this is?

And since I need a new rear sprocket, do I need to update the chain as well?? I'm including some pictures so guys can see what shape it's all in. I've been riding a lot on the road lately, so I'm thinking of transitioning from a 15/48 setup to 15/47, thoughts on this?







2. I noticed this little crack on the right side of my engine, is this cause for concern?

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Old 08-06-2012, 03:02 PM   #13968
dirtyoffroad
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Location: merrimack,N.H.
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motion pro has a tool that thumb screws to the rear sprocket,and has an 1/8 inch rod sticking out of it to sight down the chain line.
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Old 08-06-2012, 04:14 PM   #13969
Jayrod1318
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Mine has that crack looking thing too in the exact spot. I'm pretty sure its just casting marks?

I stopped worrying about it and it hasn't been a problem since
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:09 PM   #13970
slickwill
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Pretty sure mine has the same marks as well. I'll look closer when I'm not at work.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:26 PM   #13971
jimmyx
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Location: Salt city, Utardia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blitheringidiot View Post
Hey jimmyx - Skyline Drive?
Yeah Skyline, Great when time is short and the forcast is 98 . Get up at 6am, ride untill noon, the rest of the day is wide open for all that domestic shit.
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jimmyx screwed with this post 08-06-2012 at 05:32 PM
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #13972
marcusarelius
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Location: So Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
2 Quick questions my esteemed colleagues,

1. Just noticed how crappy my rear sprocket looks. I think I might not have gotten it lined up last time I adjusted chain tension. I heard a reference to a tool that ensures that the wheel is mounted straight, anyone know what this is?

And since I need a new rear sprocket, do I need to update the chain as well?? I'm including some pictures so guys can see what shape it's all in. I've been riding a lot on the road lately, so I'm thinking of transitioning from a 15/48 setup to 15/47, thoughts on this?
I would get the Ironman sprockets and chain combo along with some new rear sprocket bolts from Dirt Tricks and then be done with it. I run a 15/46 that works well for me-35% street with the rest offroad.

http://www.dirttricks.com/ordering_sprockets.htm

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Old 08-06-2012, 08:16 PM   #13973
woodsxr
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Hollister, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
Long time listener, first time caller. Just picked up an XR650R a week ago after deciding to get a dual sport and doing weeks of research all over the web, including this great thread. I picked up a one-owner bike with only 3100 miles on it that was in pretty good condition. I've just been doing a lot of basic maintenance on it and I made the first big mistake that I thought I would share with you

Now I'm not new to working on vehicles. I have done all the work myself on every car and bike that I've owned, including swapping an engine one time. You would think I could do a frickin' oil change on a bike and not screw it up, right?

Before I bought this bike I did research on how much oil the different dual sport bikes hold, and even what a plated dirt bike would hold so that I could get something that would be reliable enough to commute on and not have ~300 mile oil change intervals. The XR650R looked much more appealing at ~2qts capacity and a longer change interval than some other "full race" bikes with a plate on them. I read all about the trick dry sump system and a few guides on how to drain and refill the system properly. I even have the factory service manual!

So I crack open the frame drain, crack open the motor drain, and pop off the oil filter cover to change the filter as well. I check *one more time* on the internet to refresh myself on any tricks that you guys have learned, making sure I was prepared as all hell!

So I get the filter in and drain bolts torqued back up and go to fill the system. One quart in the frame...no problemo. Crack open second quart and start to pour....@#$%&*&@#$!!!! Oil overflowing all down the side of the frame. *sigh* I clean it up and kick the motor over by hand to try and get some oil pumped into the rest of the motor. Fill up the frame some more and @#$%&*@#$!!! Oil overflowing all over the frame, radiator, shrouds, gas tank, skid plate, you name it...Jesus H Christ...(no offense to religious people).

Alright, lets kick this pig 20 times by foot and get the rest of the oil in...no problem. I fill it up to the manual (and Internet) specified 1.7qts and start the oil level check routine (or so I thought). Start it up, get it really hot, rev it out, make sure it's damn hot and flowin' and all that good stuff, shut it off and then check the level immediately. Well...damn..barely at the bottom of the "low" mark. Let's put in 50-100ml. Start it up, rev it out, get it really hot, "Oh yeah! Bet the neighbors love this!" and check it again immediately after shutting it off. Damn...barely above the "low" mark. Welp, maybe I got ALL of the oil out of the motor and need all 2qts, as the manual says the full system is actually 2qts. Start it up, rev..you get the idea..now it's just below the "high" mark! Sweet!

Cut to this morning. Gonna take a short ride and deposit a check. Motor is running GREAT! Got the carb all dialed in and the damn thing actually idles and makes power after fixing the amazingly rich tuning the PO had it set to. I get to the bank and, you can probably guess, oil all over the frame, my left boot, skid plate, dripping on the ground.

@#$%&$#%@&!!!!!!!!!111one!

So I drained 300ml out today and since it is going to be 102 here in SoCal I'm going to put off checking the level (properly) until tomorrow morning. And wouldn't you know it, my front sprocket is looking nice and shiny and the chain is "strangely" really well oiled and throwing a nice oil mist all over the frame. I swear to god if I blew the countershaft seal I'm gonna lose it.

Lesson: In order to properly check the oil level on an XR650R you need to ride it to put some load on the engine. Revving it out in your garage is not enough. *sigh*
When I change the oil and filter, I fill 1 1/2 quarts of oil. Start the bike and let it run for a couple/few minutes with a couple blips of the throttle (no major revving). Shut it down and add the remainder of the second quart.

When I picked up my XR, it was leaking around the counter shaft a little.
I replaced the seal in probably 15 to 25 minutes. Probably the easiest repair on the bike.

Good luck with the bike and enjoy
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:23 PM   #13974
woodsxr
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Hollister, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
2 Quick questions my esteemed colleagues,

1. Just noticed how crappy my rear sprocket looks. I think I might not have gotten it lined up last time I adjusted chain tension. I heard a reference to a tool that ensures that the wheel is mounted straight, anyone know what this is?

And since I need a new rear sprocket, do I need to update the chain as well?? I'm including some pictures so guys can see what shape it's all in. I've been riding a lot on the road lately, so I'm thinking of transitioning from a 15/48 setup to 15/47, thoughts on this?







2. I noticed this little crack on the right side of my engine, is this cause for concern?

Dang, I think you got all the life out of that back sprocket!!
The front looks a little stretched. I would replace both sprockets and chain if you can afford. and lube the new chain more often than the old one.

On another note, I think I have that same casting mark on my case also.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:40 PM   #13975
fuel-cycle
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Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Right outside this lazy summer home
Oddometer: 427
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
2 Quick questions my esteemed colleagues,


And since I need a new rear sprocket, do I need ..... as well??

thoughts on this?


Based on the looks of that rear sprocket, when was the last time you lubed your swing arm bearings???

They could be seized
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:19 AM   #13976
digga1111
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: wynnum
Oddometer: 3,314
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronp1264 View Post
2 quick questions my esteemed colleagues,

1. Just noticed how crappy my rear sprocket looks. I think i might not have gotten it lined up last time i adjusted chain tension. I heard a reference to a tool that ensures that the wheel is mounted straight, anyone know what this is?

And since i need a new rear sprocket, do i need to update the chain as well?? I'm including some pictures so guys can see what shape it's all in. I've been riding a lot on the road lately, so i'm thinking of transitioning from a 15/48 setup to 15/47, thoughts on this?







2. I noticed this little crack on the right side of my engine, is this cause for concern?

15/45
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:35 AM   #13977
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
Mine used to drain fuel out of the overflow tubes when it was on unlevel ground on the side stand.
And over jumps or whoops the engine would die / flat spot.

So to overcome that, i raised the float to 16mm instead of 18mm as the manual suggests.

Then i had to adjust the mixture screw after raising the float.
Raise ? I would say lover to get the fuel level lover it the carb ? I am Confused .
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:39 AM   #13978
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
You mean increasing from the std 18 to 19 mm - I agree, and this is what ZXR should do. You'll read about it often, and is alleged to cure the pissing when leant over.
ZXR, you measure whilst turning the carb upside-down whilst you blow through a fuelline to find where it closes, and at that angle (which will not be 180 deg's inverted) you measure the top-of-float to the carb's gasket-surface (withOUT gasket, just in case.
Also, the reassembled carb you shake before mounting. The float-assy must be heard to move, as some do stick.


By the sounds of it the PO was a mechanical crunt, so I would plan on stipping (find the r earlier) lots to check, and to reassemble properly. Thankful work though, you will know it is correct then.
Thanks for the info Lads i will do this . And yes the previous owner was very " unique " in the way that he decided to have hot cams instead of new oil and airfilter with no holes , The more i am looking at the bike the more faults i see
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:43 AM   #13979
ZXRaziel
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by phorensic View Post
Long time listener, first time caller. Just picked up an XR650R a week ago after deciding to get a dual sport and doing weeks of research all over the web, including this great thread. I picked up a one-owner bike with only 3100 miles on it that was in pretty good condition. I've just been doing a lot of basic maintenance on it and I made the first big mistake that I thought I would share with you

Now I'm not new to working on vehicles. I have done all the work myself on every car and bike that I've owned, including swapping an engine one time. You would think I could do a frickin' oil change on a bike and not screw it up, right?

Before I bought this bike I did research on how much oil the different dual sport bikes hold, and even what a plated dirt bike would hold so that I could get something that would be reliable enough to commute on and not have ~300 mile oil change intervals. The XR650R looked much more appealing at ~2qts capacity and a longer change interval than some other "full race" bikes with a plate on them. I read all about the trick dry sump system and a few guides on how to drain and refill the system properly. I even have the factory service manual!

So I crack open the frame drain, crack open the motor drain, and pop off the oil filter cover to change the filter as well. I check *one more time* on the internet to refresh myself on any tricks that you guys have learned, making sure I was prepared as all hell!

So I get the filter in and drain bolts torqued back up and go to fill the system. One quart in the frame...no problemo. Crack open second quart and start to pour....@#$%&*&@#$!!!! Oil overflowing all down the side of the frame. *sigh* I clean it up and kick the motor over by hand to try and get some oil pumped into the rest of the motor. Fill up the frame some more and @#$%&*@#$!!! Oil overflowing all over the frame, radiator, shrouds, gas tank, skid plate, you name it...Jesus H Christ...(no offense to religious people).

Alright, lets kick this pig 20 times by foot and get the rest of the oil in...no problem. I fill it up to the manual (and Internet) specified 1.7qts and start the oil level check routine (or so I thought). Start it up, get it really hot, rev it out, make sure it's damn hot and flowin' and all that good stuff, shut it off and then check the level immediately. Well...damn..barely at the bottom of the "low" mark. Let's put in 50-100ml. Start it up, rev it out, get it really hot, "Oh yeah! Bet the neighbors love this!" and check it again immediately after shutting it off. Damn...barely above the "low" mark. Welp, maybe I got ALL of the oil out of the motor and need all 2qts, as the manual says the full system is actually 2qts. Start it up, rev..you get the idea..now it's just below the "high" mark! Sweet!

Cut to this morning. Gonna take a short ride and deposit a check. Motor is running GREAT! Got the carb all dialed in and the damn thing actually idles and makes power after fixing the amazingly rich tuning the PO had it set to. I get to the bank and, you can probably guess, oil all over the frame, my left boot, skid plate, dripping on the ground.

@#$%&$#%@&!!!!!!!!!111one!

So I drained 300ml out today and since it is going to be 102 here in SoCal I'm going to put off checking the level (properly) until tomorrow morning. And wouldn't you know it, my front sprocket is looking nice and shiny and the chain is "strangely" really well oiled and throwing a nice oil mist all over the frame. I swear to god if I blew the countershaft seal I'm gonna lose it.

Lesson: In order to properly check the oil level on an XR650R you need to ride it to put some load on the engine. Revving it out in your garage is not enough. *sigh*
I have filled it up with exactly 1.6 litres of oil , ( stopped few times and kicked the starter to get the oil around and out of the frame tank ) and managed to spill little bit too , i am going to check the oil level after good ride . ( its going to be the first ride - i have not riden the bike yet because it was in state that i dont consider safe to ride . )
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:19 AM   #13980
BuRPsa
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Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
ZXR,

it's just work plus some new parts (bolts, seals, washers etc), so do a Nike - 'Just Do It'


Aaron,

I'm with Marcus, buy an Ironman rear sprocket - which is steel and light, it will last. Your (aluminium?) rear is gone (that actually is the understatement for this year!) which means you've stretched your chain (ergo also a new one) which in turn has worn your c/s.... so also this one to be renewed. But that's in any case something you should do, renew the whole lot when something shows 'worn'.
Once you have the new set on, gearing your choice, then try lubing at times? Even your old oil engine oil is better than nothing......


Phorensic,

Welcome here with your bike. No revving or riding required after changing oil, just some idling is all you need - say a few minutes until the engine is warmish or warm. But adding just over half the oil first is a good habit as you've learned now, then starting, idling - then checking. Then fill up to the mark, and off you go.
You did clean the screen on the downtube did you - the one just 'behind' the plug? If not you want to do this, as this bike is new to you, better make sure. On this, behind the clutch cover there's a second screen, and with a used bike this one I'd check first! If any metal filings are found here you best make sure you find where that's coming from, and if it is brass then this may point at your bigend thrustwashers. Make sure? Costs a gasket and an hour, that's all.
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