XR650R Thread!

[KASUYAHO]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Deadly,

Yeah you may mate: Ozzi-made!
For the life of me I cannot remember who makes them, but I googled for them & found them down under - try? They make bashplates mainly I think, should help.

Whipps or B and B.

Probably Whipps from memory

[KASUYAHO]

Originally Posted by slogger

I'm on my 3rd XR. I've had the suspension on one done by Precision Concepts and 2 by Barnum. Mine have all been about a 5% improvement on the type of riding I do. Single track, fast jeep trails, Ca. desert.

When ever I read reports of guys that had dramatic improvements, I've always felt a little left out. Mine was never a dramatic improvement. Just very subtle.

My only XR suspension complaint has been the forks on fast/sharp hits. The only way I could improve this was by lowering the fork oil height to 150mm. This seemed to make a 15% improvement for me.

I'm not charging super fast through whoops but I do have about 50K offroad miles under my belt. All on 650r's.

Barnums were the guys who were doing that porting the fork valve, Mr Boy used to get Barnums doing his suspension.

PC would use a shim stack setup close to the MX setup, PC when they did the Baja Hionda XR650R;s used to
use a CR500 shock which has high speed adjustment, and is longer in length compared to the stock shock.

In Aussie a guy over here did the XR650R for Rallye for Honda, he used to extend the shocks length,
and his Rallye shim stack is close to a MX stack.

The guy over here did my suspension after trying Mr Boy's setup.

The main thing is to get someone who can listen to what you want and give you the setup you want.

[Shibby!]

Bornack and expert I think should be used loosely. No doubt he has skill at what he does, but the key thing is he's went through great lengths to provide us with good, solid information to either copy, or adjust his settings.

I believe he talks about a fork that doesn't bottom is one that isn't working completely. I somewhat agree. That being said, I don't find I bottom out, and if i do, it's pretty damn smooth and I don't notice it much. I've taken some wildly hard hits on this bike and live to tell about it. Most recent was the Idaho train track section on the CDT at about 60KM/hr hitting a "cattle gate / bridge" which is about a foot high. Those who have rode that section know they aren't smooth! It did bottom out there!


As for the forks, I found them night and day. My stock suspension (untouched) were downright scary. They'd blow through their travel, then be ultra sharp. Gravel roads at speed were scary because pot holes would send you all over the road. The bike was TERRIBLE.

Now, I find the forks and suspension in general a bit soft for my liking, but I can rail bumps, baby heads, root sections, washboard, whoops, etc with ease. I don't get the feedback I like, but I also don't have the bike sending me off into a tree either. Traction with the soft suspension is great, especially on large, long hill climbs where, with great traction, and the XRR's torque, carry me well past where most MX/Trail bikes can get provided it's not a technical hill climb.

So, in my eyes it's not a perfect set-up, but for the price I put into it? I find it great! Probably just as happy with these settings than if I sent it to a few suspension shops to have valved because they don't don't know what I like either. Nobody can tell you what you'll like, but you can use Borynack's site knowing what he offers and adjust it to what you want all for pennies on the dollar.

[slickwill]

Originally Posted by slogger

I'm on my 3rd XR. I've had the suspension on one done by Precision Concepts and 2 by Barnum. Mine have all been about a 5% improvement on the type of riding I do. Single track, fast jeep trails, Ca. desert.

My BRP was Johnny Campbell's BITD bike so it came with the best PC had to offer including the works shock with high and low speed adjustments. Since I've never ridden stock suspension I can't compare bit I can say that this setup is VERY good at high speeds. The adjustment range is huge. I can go from bouncing like a pogo stick to bone jarring stiff. I think that with that much of an adjustment range anyone could find a setup they were happy with for slow trail riding through high speed desert racing.

[KASUYAHO]

I could not have said it any better Shibby.

But the setup of Mr Boys did not feel alot different over stock too me.
Saying there is nothing wrong with it, it just did not suit how i ride
and what riding i do, thats all.

But night and day difference when i got TEKNIK to do the work.

[jesusgatos]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

Bornack and expert I think should be used loosely. No doubt he has skill at what he does, but the key thing is he's went through great lengths to provide us with good, solid information to either copy, or adjust his settings.

Agreed. Really appreciate all the info he's compiled and shared with everyone, but Robo-Boogie and I both hated his shock valving setups. Almost no rebound damping at all. Think I posted in more detail about that somewhere earlier in this thread, but was funny to see it come up again, and again.

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by jesusgatos

Agreed. Really appreciate all the info he's compiled and shared with everyone, but Robo-Boogie and I both hated his shock valving setups. Almost no rebound damping at all. Think I posted in more detail about that somewhere earlier in this thread, but was funny to see it come up again, and again.

I don't think I have ridden bory's settings enough to find what I think needs changing. However, there have been a couple times I have lost traction in rocky sections, and wonder if it a lack of damping causing that.

From what I understand, the objective behind bory's settings was to deal with whoops left by trophy trucks. So I am going to run some of that today, as I haven't had a chance to do so yet. So it probably isn't the best for everyone, but for desert riding I think its a good place to start.

[BuRPsa]

The nicest thing about Borynack is that he documents & publishes what he has, how2doit etc, and hosts it even! Plus I have gathered his mods work, so that all makes him a good dude in my books


Ralph,

You realize that your rear light may be powered either by the stator's power or by the ignition coils? Both AC yeah, and if it's running on the latter this can well cause ignition modules to become consumables.
I'd find that fault - because, either way it is, if only because it clearly runs unregulated! - as my main priority, and I hunch that once fixed it would be the end of your woes.
Also, is the rear a LED-unit perhaps?

[Shibby!]

Another thing to keep in mind with Borynack's information is that people are doing this themselves, opening the door to mistakes and blaming set-up as the problem.

I think those completely unhappy with the set-up, or who see very little improvement must have done something wrong. As mentioned, it's not perfect but it's in a whole new universe in comparisons to stock set-up.

[RalphyDo]

Originally Posted by BuRPsa

Ralph,

You realize that your rear light may be powered either by the stator's power or by the ignition coils? Both AC yeah, and if it's running on the latter this can well cause ignition modules to become consumables.
I'd find that fault - because, either way it is, if only because it clearly runs unregulated! - as my main priority, and I hunch that once fixed it would be the end of your woes.
Also, is the rear a LED-unit perhaps?

Yep, i have an LED panel inside the stock housing aswell as an enduro LED brake/tail/license light

[BuRPsa]

Just my hunch, some others here (Crypto?) are more qualified I think: If that lot is powered by the ignitions coils or r/reg it may well stuff up the (electronic) workings, as there is a partial short between one half-sine only - as LED's are diodes.
But as said, even if not - you must get them to work on DC, as all the rest is too.
See it from - pun somewhat intended - the sunny side, they're going to be brighter!

[slickwill]

Someone awhile back asked for everyone to post jetting that others can use as baseline.

2003 XR650R.
Wiseco 11:1 piston, Web custom grind cam with .415" lift intake and exhaust, head ported, polished, milled to bring it to 11.5:1. Built with Kibblewhite springs, valves, and titanium retainers. Pro Circuit full ti exhaust. HRC cam chain, guides, clutch springs. Stock carb with choke plate mod, 70S pilot, 192 main, clip 2nd from bottom, air screw 1.5 turns out. Starts first kick every time on half choke if cold, no choke if warm.

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by Shibby!

Another thing to keep in mind with Borynack's information is that people are doing this themselves, opening the door to mistakes and blaming set-up as the problem.

I think those completely unhappy with the set-up, or who see very little improvement must have done something wrong. As mentioned, it's not perfect but it's in a whole new universe in comparisons to stock set-up.

I just went and got a couple tacos and checked the mail, and rode 40 miles of race course. Unfortunately, all the big whoops are gone, flattened by the monsoons. However I did find one section of whoops that I have ridden a few times and there is no doubt that I can ride them faster after the doing the rear (borynack). With traffic it was nice, the bike maintained attitude all the way through. Riding against traffic it felt like I bottomed the forks 5 whoops in a row before I backed off, but it never got squirley. Over the whole ride I felt like I bottomed the forks probably 8 times; one time for sure on a root, I thought I broke the rim. But it never got squirley like before. Some of the course is just big ruts with exposed rocks and I could stay seated where I could never before. It was also far less fatiguing as well.

I can't see where this setup has any room for complaints riding what it was designed for or where it could be comparable to a stock setup.

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by slickwill

Someone awhile back asked for everyone to post jetting that others can use as baseline.

192 main

Jeebus, you must get about 20 mpg with that thing.

I bet it rips though!!

[Leviticus]

Hey guys,

My new to me XRR has an oil leak that I am trying to track down before I finish my build on it and put it back together. The left side of the frame backbone was wet, not soaked but my wiring harness, coil and top engine mount were slightly oily/crudded up.

My guesses are either my upper right cooling hose where it goes into the thermostat (Is a little wet, new hoses on the way) or the dipstick cap may be leaking down the side of the frame.

Are there any common places to look for leaks in this area? Is there supposed to be an oring on the dipstick cap?

What are the two plugs in the side of the frame? Has anyone seen those leak before?

Thanks guys!