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Old 09-07-2012, 05:47 PM   #14386
Jiminy Cricket
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: NC
Oddometer: 535
Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post

If its had water inside the cover check there's no rusty flakes between the solder points on the trigger coil.
(Thats what stopped mine - faulty gasket, lots of water and rust!)
Also check the stator gasket is not damaged/allowing ingress of water
Check fit of the rubber grommet on the stator cover, if all else is OK thats the only place water is likely to get in

JM
Hey JM, thanks. The trigger looks ok. The gasket is f'ed, and so is the rubber. I just don't know if the stator gets f'ed if a couple pole ends (one of them the ignition pole) of the stator shows rust. I sanded off the rust, but the running condition hasn't changed. Could there be more problems that I can't see?
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:31 PM   #14387
medisyn
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So is there a missing bolt on my (new to me) XR-R?

http://i.imgur.com/47nct.jpg

Seems like something should be there...
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #14388
RalphyDo
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I am fighting with ignition problems aswell! I just bought all new(used off ebay) ignition components and guess what?! No spark! I tried the stator, nothing. Tried the CDI, nothing. Tried the coil, nothing! All different parts, nothing different. The only thing I have not changed is the wiring harness but I did check it out and it is fine(continuity)



I am just about ready to set this thing on fire!!!


Anyone around Denver want to earn some beer by testing my CDI's on their known-running bike?
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:39 PM   #14389
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
So is there a missing bolt on my (new to me) XR-R?

http://i.imgur.com/47nct.jpg

Seems like something should be there...
No, nothing goes in that casting hole
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:23 PM   #14390
Kiko
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Location: Jalisco, Mexico 45825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
So is there a missing bolt on my (new to me) XR-R?

http://i.imgur.com/47nct.jpg

Seems like something should be there...
Drain opening for water that falls into the spark plug pocket. Keep it open with a toothpick in case mud clogs it up.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #14391
Jiminy Cricket
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My main jet has a brass nut on the holder. It was set to hold the jet from seating completely into the carb body. If I take the nut off, it screws in farther. The bike ran fine in this position, but has anyone seen this before? It's a 170 main, and I've got a 68s pilot, for what it's worth. Oh, and it's clean now.

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Old 09-07-2012, 11:21 PM   #14392
Jaronimo
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Location: south west Western Australia
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howdy folks how would I go about fitting a 41mm fcr to my xr650r, if its too much to modify Im gonna sell it
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:59 AM   #14393
BuRPsa
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Jiminy,

"weak spark, orange colour, black sooty plug" - does not sound like a weak spark to me.
Get a normal button, 4 holes, and rig a grounded wire through 1 hole and another wire, which you will connect to the HT of the coil, in the opposite hole. This creates a jump distance of ~8mm, and it should jump this distance easily - try? Take the plug out the head, then kicking becomes a doddle.
But it sounds like yours will do this fine, your carb is the problem - and good lord, I hope you cleaned it well! Shiny parts bru, and use compressed air too to unblock any hole you can find.
That nut on the emulsion tube (the long part) should be there. But check
http://www.dealercostparts.com/pages...BNYMBN4E1700BL
and see for yourself what parts must be there and which one's you have? I think the big tube seats on the needle jet and the nut is just a locker, and if you say that without it it goes in further then maybe the n/jet is absent - which would explain that very sooty plug & shite running?

Your freshly sanded bits now shining you may want to put some grease on, or paint the lot with oil. Would stop rust forming the next time some water makes its way into it, and normally a wee bit of oil does actually.


Jaronimo,

depends what version/type FCR you got. Some have the slide operating system on top making it just too high to fit, and you'd have to heat-up & dent your tank(s). Jetting these things is not too easy either, and a plain pain compared to a TM40. Then, the advantage over the latter is minute if at all, probably only noticeable when you go to the dragstrips with it, so I'd KIS and get a TM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:03 AM   #14394
slickwill
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Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiminy Cricket View Post
My main jet has a brass nut on the holder. It was set to hold the jet from seating completely into the carb body. If I take the nut off, it screws in farther. The bike ran fine in this position, but has anyone seen this before? It's a 170 main, and I've got a 68s pilot, for what it's worth. Oh, and it's clean now.
Yep, what he said above. Back off the nut. Screw the jet all the way in until it stops, then lock it down with the nut.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:35 AM   #14395
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
I am fighting with ignition problems aswell! I just bought all new(used off ebay) ignition components and guess what?! No spark! I tried the stator, nothing. Tried the CDI, nothing. Tried the coil, nothing! All different parts, nothing different. The only thing I have not changed is the wiring harness but I did check it out and it is fine(continuity)



I am just about ready to set this thing on fire!!!


Anyone around Denver want to earn some beer by testing my CDI's on their known-running bike?
It sounds like it is something easy.

Spark plug HT lead, spark plug cap, wire on coil ground to earth broken, ground wire in stator broken,
condenser faulty, bad connection in wiring harness etc
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:58 AM   #14396
Jiminy Cricket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
Yep, what he said above. Back off the nut. Screw the jet all the way in until it stops, then lock it down with the nut.
Thanks, that's weird though. I've never seen one like it. And when I cracked it open, it seemed like the nut was set to hold the jet at a certain height. No idea if this would affect running. But I'll reset it tonight.

Someone else said a pinhole in the ACV would cause a really rich condition....lack of vacuum....not enough air? Sound right?
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:07 AM   #14397
Jiminy Cricket
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Oddometer: 535
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Jiminy,

"weak spark, orange colour, black sooty plug" - does not sound like a weak spark to me.
Get a normal button, 4 holes, and rig a grounded wire through 1 hole and another wire, which you will connect to the HT of the coil, in the opposite hole. This creates a jump distance of ~8mm, and it should jump this distance easily - try? Take the plug out the head, then kicking becomes a doddle.
But it sounds like yours will do this fine, your carb is the problem - and good lord, I hope you cleaned it well! Shiny parts bru, and use compressed air too to unblock any hole you can find.
That nut on the emulsion tube (the long part) should be there. But check
http://www.dealercostparts.com/pages...BNYMBN4E1700BL
and see for yourself what parts must be there and which one's you have? I think the big tube seats on the needle jet and the nut is just a locker, and if you say that without it it goes in further then maybe the n/jet is absent - which would explain that very sooty plug & shite running?

Your freshly sanded bits now shining you may want to put some grease on, or paint the lot with oil. Would stop rust forming the next time some water makes its way into it, and normally a wee bit of oil does actually.

Thanks Burpsa, can't find the nut for the main jet on the schematic, but i'll treat it as a locker and see if it helps. The button trick is cute, i'll give that a try.

The carb has been stripped and dipped and blown out twice. I'll try it once more.

I did think weak spark would cause poor ignition, so I started down the electrical path. Trying to find a peak voltage adapter cause it looks like Honda did away with Ohm specs for testing their parts. I have no idea what resistance to look for in the coil.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:45 AM   #14398
bamfslap
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Anyone know of a cheap (<$20) LED stop/brake light I can shove under the stock lens? I think my Baja one died.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:03 AM   #14399
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
Anyone know of a cheap (<$20) LED stop/brake light I can shove under the stock lens? I think my Baja one died.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134054

I think it's slightly more than 20$, but it's an awesome light. Bright, solid, etc. Been on my bike for the last 28,000KM's, 6 of those being Baja KM's, and even worse treatment here, through Mexico, Moab, CDT, etc.

It'll hold up. I'm not too fond of Baja Designs.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:17 AM   #14400
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiminy Cricket View Post
Someone else said a pinhole in the ACV would cause a really rich condition....lack of vacuum....not enough air? Sound right?
No - and, your 'rich' problem is that your emulsion tube (21, the long thing named wrong in the diagram) is not sealing at the top against the needle-jet (3). And, you must check that #3 is present - but if 21 stops when screwed in then it will be.
On that valve, the tab without a screw of the cover (part 14) has a tiny hole in it - which you need to seal off with either epoxy or sillicone. This way the engine gets a slightly richer mixture on overrun, probably burbles/pops less then also, and will react quicker/better when opening the throttle again. This valve is an environmental thing, without it (ie blocking the control-capillary) it runs better.
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