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Old 05-03-2004, 07:44 PM   #1
rapiti OP
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Talking KTM Adventure overheating? Electrics?

My 1999 KTM Adventure has recently had the high temp idiot light come on well before the fan. There has never been a sign of boiling over, but this is my first water cooled bike, so I am relatively clueless! It sounds like a thermostat issue, but I thought I'd throw a feeler out to see if I am alone with this problem.

The other oddity is the turn signal. In the morning (coolish) my L. Rear turn signal doesn't flash, and L. frt. flashes rapidly. In the afternoon (warmish) they work flawlessly. (I'm also an idiot when it comes to electrics.) Mack? Anyone?
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapiti
My 1999 KTM Adventure has recently had the high temp idiot light come on well before the fan. There has never been a sign of boiling over, but this is my first water cooled bike, so I am relatively clueless! It sounds like a thermostat issue, but I thought I'd throw a feeler out to see if I am alone with this problem.

The other oddity is the turn signal. In the morning (coolish) my L. Rear turn signal doesn't flash, and L. frt. flashes rapidly. In the afternoon (warmish) they work flawlessly. (I'm also an idiot when it comes to electrics.) Mack? Anyone?
Hey Rapiti,
Looks like you have at least 3 things going on at once. The fan is not going on at the appropriate time, as indicated by the temp gauge and/or idiot light... hell, I don't even know if an '01 has a temp gauge for that matter.
The idiot light is coming on before the actual water temp is excessive or... you bike is overheating but is giving no indication other than an idiot light; no boil over etc.

I'd start by testing the fan to see if it works by bypassing the fan switch. Unless you have a way to heat and measure the temp of the fan switch, there is no way to test it. Same deal for the idiot light switch... hell, once again, I don't know if it's is a variable resistance switch for a gauge, cause I don't know if you have a gauge.
A "point and shoot" style digital temp gun would come in handy here. You can go to an auto parts and buy those temp strip stickers and put them on your radiator to check what the actual temperature is.

So yes, your bike is overheating or... it's not, but your switch(es) and/or fan is fugged up.

As to your turn signals, as voltage goes thru the flasher then to the switch then to the individual turn signals, and you have two separate issues with two separate sides of turn signals... I'd say your problem lies at the switch itself or beyond to the individual wiring (not likely) or the turn signal bulb sockets and/or bulbs (more likely).
It could be the flasher reacting to two distinctly different resistance values... but I'm not holding my breath for that one.
As always, internet electrical diagnostics are an educated guess at best, so unless someone has experianced the same problem and has a solution, this is as good as it gets... best of luck

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Old 05-04-2004, 04:40 PM   #3
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Hey Rapiti, sounds like Creep has got it covered. I know this is not your issue, but my Duke gets very funky when the coolant level is the least bit low. Have you tested the fan switch as Creep mentioned?

The signal issue, sounds like an intermitant open, that closes when the ambient temp rises. LC4 based bikes have a tendency for the connections in the switches to come loose, I had to get the iron out and redo the Duke wiring for my highbeam, it was very intermitant. I would not even rule out a loose bulb, do to the socket or contact being abraded away from vibration.

PS. Always feel free to email me, I am getting frustrated with the bandwith/newbies, and though I love this forum, may be around a bit less.

Have you heard of Rob Remmers who races F28s? He is a co-worker of mine, I guess he cleaned house at Key West Race week. Cheers, Mack
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Old 05-04-2004, 07:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack

PS. Always feel free to email me, I am getting frustrated with the bandwith/newbies, and though I love this forum, may be around a bit less.

Have you heard of Rob Remmers who races F28s? He is a co-worker of mine, I guess he cleaned house at Key West Race week. Cheers, Mack
Thanks Mack.

His name rings a bell. My across the street neighbor just got 4th in the F28 class at the Corsair Nat'ls, but he hadn't bought his boat by KWRW. We might bring it up for Turnback Canyon Regatta on Lake Travis, if they do the old course again this year.

Regarding my motorcycle (this is the right forum?) I suspect vibration in the turn signal, and I haven't got stuck into the fan yet. Creepage did have some good tips. Thanks Creeper! Now I just have to get off my duff and replace the mainshaft bearing, too. Any puller advice? I had an expensive one recommended earlier, but I will probably take it to a mechanic rather than buying a $250 one-shot tool. Of course there's always ebay. Pyramid tool lending scheme?
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Old 05-06-2004, 01:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapiti
Thanks Mack.

His name rings a bell. My across the street neighbor just got 4th in the F28 class at the Corsair Nat'ls, but he hadn't bought his boat by KWRW. We might bring it up for Turnback Canyon Regatta on Lake Travis, if they do the old course again this year.
Marc Waters?? Rob pestered me to tell you that he hopes as many F28 as possible make it to the Turnback Canyon Regatta. I was wrong about Rob Remmers boat, he raced an F24, named:Priorities (previously name:Breakin Wind) at KWRW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapiti
Regarding my motorcycle (this is the right forum?) I suspect vibration in the turn signal, and I haven't got stuck into the fan yet. Creepage did have some good tips. Thanks Creeper! Now I just have to get off my duff and replace the mainshaft bearing, too. Any puller advice? I had an expensive one recommended earlier, but I will probably take it to a mechanic rather than buying a $250 one-shot tool. Of course there's always ebay. Pyramid tool lending scheme?
Let us know what happens with your mainshaft bearing, I have yet to deal with that. My Duke II is a 2000 my, so far no problems. Cheers, Mack
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