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Old 11-25-2012, 07:55 PM   #8296
tblume
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Originally Posted by ks02 View Post
Check your PM's.....I can haul it for you no trouble.
Done and done!
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:51 AM   #8297
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For those interested and those that have orders in, Thanksgiving delayed our LED light shipment by 1 day. Tracking shows delivery as this Thursday, not Wednesday as planned.

-Ryan 541-513-8940
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:16 PM   #8298
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2 days early, the lights have arrived !!!!

I will be at the pad tomorrow if anyone wants to buy items, pay for ordered items, or check out some inventory. Thank you again for any and all of those who have supported this venture. I could not do it without you.

-Ryan 541-513-8940
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:33 PM   #8299
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lww.....you left before I got you paid for the tank bag....or maybe I was just ADHD'n and didn't notice you getting ready to shove off. Either way I haven't forgotten I still owe you.

I rode into work this morning with the thing on the bike and if the gusting wind and rain didn't strip it off today...it won't ever fall off. I'm gonna do some repositioning of the two magnets in each of the side 'flaps' and I'll prolly cut off the fastex buckle on the seat end. I'm also gonna rig up a simple 550cord/snap caribiner safety cable to the bars for peace of mind, since I can't see the bag while I'm riding and I'm not sure I'd know it if it did happen to somehow get detached. Other'n that...I love the thing and my back is already glad to lose the pack weight.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:39 PM   #8300
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Watts for Tblume....or T Watts...

Per our conversation last night.....Watt and lumen units represent different quantities, so you can't convert watts to lumens.



Re: Lumens vrs watts
Watts just tells you how much energy is consumed by the light. A 100 W light bulb in your house consumes 100 watts of energy per house. Incan light technology was old technology and didn't change so one 100 W bulb was more or less like another one so it had some meaning not for output but at least for how high your energy bill would be.

LED's are much more efficient and comparing them to incan by their energy consumption makes no sense. It doesn't even make sense to compare LED's to each other that way since the technology is changing.

Lumen ratings are what matter. Some manufacturers think they have to list watts (and bigger is better to some). Eventually they will all be listing lumen ratings as the public becomes educated.

If I have two used Toyota Corolla's and one uses 10 gallons of gas per hour and the other one uses 5 gallons of gas per hour you're not going to pick the one that uses 10 gallons per hour just because it must be better. Talking about watts regarding LED's is just as silly.


There is no direct proportion/formula. The newer standard appears to be lumens. Used to be candlepower years ago. Since the power management/efficiencies of different lights, bulbs, LED emitters, etc vary so much, watts can't always be considered a reliable barometer. One light may advertise 5 watts! While a different light may only use 2-3 watts, but its total lumens, beam distance, etc is superior. One way I like to think about it is like this: Cars, HP, and MPG. Just because one car has more HP than the next doesn't necessarily mean that it has a lower MPG. Some cars that have a low HP rating may be terrible at MPG. While a 436 HP 2011 Corvette may get 25+ MPG on the HWY.

Bottom Line: I suggest comparing lumens to lumens, as long as the two lights being compared have the same ANSI FL1 specs.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:34 PM   #8301
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paging YamaGeek,,

candlepower as you suggest, was = is a measurable factor I bleev, sight distance on a clear night,or some such,, I don't know.
but lumens and candlepower must therefore have some measurable connection I would guess,,maybe not.
BRIGHT AS FUCK! is a pretty good measure!
If you can burn the paint off the car ahead of you,your lights are just bright enough!
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:01 AM   #8302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmonkeybut View Post
Incan light technology was old technology
Didn't they predict the end of the world soon? I thought the Inca's said we'd all be dead in two weeks, so all this talk about light power....








actually, that was a great anology OMB.
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:05 AM   #8303
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found this explanation,,

lumens vs candlepower

http://www.ehow.com/about_5385320_ca...vs-lumens.html
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:15 AM   #8304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmonkeybut View Post
Watt and lumen units represent different quantities, so you can't convert watts to lumens.
After Da' Pad, we went and played at Timmie's house for a bit. That 47watt (4 bazallion lumen) lamp attached to my KLR made the "lumens" from my stock headlight insignificant. The drawback (pun intended) was, with the weak KLR charging system, is that it drew 3.1 amps at idle.... 2.8 once the revs built and the alt kicked in. The smaller square 10 watter only drew .9 amps and was about half as bright by my seat of the pants dyno.

.... anyho.... nice lights, gunna spoon a few on the 4x4 and maybe some of the smaller ones for a bike in the future.
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:32 AM   #8305
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Well....in 'light' of that info.....

I may decide to switch the rounds for the little square ones. Or...if Ryan will make the already sweet deal sweeter enough...I'll keep the rounds and put 'em on my Jeep and buy two of the squares for the Klr
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:43 AM   #8306
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I think I'm gonna call Tim T-Waffle from now on
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:21 AM   #8307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideAbout View Post
After Da' Pad, we went and played at Timmie's house for a bit. That 47watt (4 bazallion lumen) lamp attached to my KLR made the "lumens" from my stock headlight insignificant. The drawback (pun intended) was, with the weak KLR charging system, is that it drew 3.1 amps at idle.... 2.8 once the revs built and the alt kicked in. The smaller square 10 watter only drew .9 amps and was about half as bright by my seat of the pants dyno.

.... anyho.... nice lights, gunna spoon a few on the 4x4 and maybe some of the smaller ones for a bike in the future.

Good info here. A few things to note. The square lights we tested were rated for 16 watts, not 10. The 10's will be here this next week. Depending on the age of the battery and which bike the lights goes on will be a large deciding factor on how many actual amps the LED's will draw. With a good strong battery and a larger stater the lights will draw less amps. So while this info is accurate, it is only accurate for this particular application. Things will differ a bit from bike to bike.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechplease View Post
Well....in 'light' of that info.....

I may decide to switch the rounds for the little square ones. Or...if Ryan will make the already sweet deal sweeter enough...I'll keep the rounds and put 'em on my Jeep and buy two of the squares for the Klr
We can do anything you want Mandango! I don't want to stick anyone with something they don't want. Pricing will remain the same unless more people go in on a group buy for a case, my margin is already dismal at best. I have 2 more sets of the 16 watt squares in stock, the rest are gone. I have coming in 2 sets each of the 10 watt single and 4 led units measuring 66x66mm each. 1 set of each are spoken for so I will have an extra set of each should you decide to go that route. Just let me know, I want to make you happy.


Lets talk watts vs amps.

I did some research on the larger "42" watt units and have a few answers. Each LED has a wattage rating (3). My supplier is taking the total # of LED x Watts per led = output. This had quite the discussion going. Ohms law can not be overridden so the math was easy. However what I did not include was these lights are stable at 24 volts. So after a little math the "42" watt unit with perfect power will bee considered a 38 watts unit at 1.601 amps. FWIW, this means nothing to us unless we are going to haul our bikes in a school bus with these lights on it.

I really enjoyed the discussion last Wednesday. Anytime my brain hurts when leaving a bar is a good night .

If anyone needs anything or has any question please let me know. I will check the forum and always have my cell on.

-Ryan -541-513-8940
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:52 AM   #8308
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I think I'm gonna call Tim T-Waffle from now on
Do it!
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:11 PM   #8309
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For any of you who've ever been to the Outpost and met Del's neighbor Kenny and his dog Jasper:

Unfortunately Jasper had passed on as he may have gotten salmon poisoning from one in the creek.

Damn
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Old 11-30-2012, 06:22 PM   #8310
YamaGeek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterman View Post
candlepower as you suggest, was = is a measurable factor I bleev, sight distance on a clear night,or some such,, I don't know.
but lumens and candlepower must therefore have some measurable connection I would guess,,maybe not.
BRIGHT AS FUCK! is a pretty good measure!
If you can burn the paint off the car ahead of you,your lights are just bright enough!
Yamageek responds..

Um yeah, Lumens are the new candlepower. But, there are other things to consider.. Most newer bikes have specifically shaped and positioned headlight reflectors/bulb holders, designed to use a two filament ( hi-low beams ) replaceable bulbs. Long gone, ( I b-leev ) are the old sealed beam 6 volt units of the old Enduros of the 70's. One of the nice things about my old Yammy is it's 12volt system which uses a fairly common 15/20/25 watt incandescent dual filament bulb which most small newer bikes and scoots still use.

The problem comes with conversion to HID's or Metal Vapor Halide's, the really bright, purplish tinted road scorchers that require a voltage converter/ballast. If your bike you can use the H4 type headlight Halogen incandescent, there are some conversions to H.I.D. type bulbs. This needs to be powered off of ONLY 12volt systems.

LEDs are really another, far different technology, and for car and bike headlights they still are evolving. The problem with LED's is they demand a very controlled voltage and amperage for decent life, otherwise they will not work with some bikes that use an alternating voltage/current magneto driven headlight, like my bike uses. I do have an parallel excess current sink/voltage regulator that keeps the AC volts at 12 volts but it's the peak voltage transients in an AC system that would eventually kill any cheap DIY LED installation plus the fact that you would have to rectify, filter and regulate the AC to 12 DC volts for most of these aftermarket made cheapish LED headlights. LED stands for Light Emitting Diode, and because they are semiconductor devices they will wear out/ burn out with too much voltage and current.

The form factor for the headlights of past and present bikes can vary widely enough to make retrofitting these newer technologies to the older reflectors a money pit, which will overheat, melt the reflector, burn the bulbs out rapidly, get you tickets for having far too much glare from your headlights. The system has to put the light to the road in a way that doesn't piss off the cops, conforms to DOT standards, and allows you to have low and high beams..

Frankly for a few dollars more I buy the halogen incandescent 20 watt bulbs for my bike. I've ridden home from a few Wetfests, in the dark, using this headlight. I occasionally have people flash their high beams at me so I guessing my high beam is fairly bright. I've looked into retro fitting newer tech to this headlight, it's far too much trouble. If you have a bike with an AC output to headlight, don't have a lot of money to burn or it's an older bike with an odd headlight it's probably better with halogen incandescent.

Yeah I'm probably on this..
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