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Old 02-09-2009, 07:41 AM   #181
Owyhee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
....but since my wheel was cracked and a couple of broken spokes got me there... why not do it right.
Assembling, lacing and truing - included in the ~$400+ tab.
Good advice!

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Old 02-09-2009, 09:25 AM   #182
Jack Rabbit
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Looking at Buying a '99

Hi all,

I'm going to look at a '99. Bone stock right down to the straight steel handlebars. Apparently the only mod is some sort of exhaust insert for better flow. The seller says it burns a bit of oil and has come down on the price due to that. I'm not too worried about the oil issue because this will be a second bike as well as it will eventually be my project. I will have time to do some motor and other work on it and I want to as well. I used to have a 650L and love the simplicity and reliability of these machines.

Is there anything specific to these bikes that i should be looking for? I have noticed that the rear wheel may have issues but other than that I can't seem to find any other known problems. Hence why I have been looking for a bike like this.
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:59 PM   #183
Blakebird
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Rabbit
The seller says it burns a bit of oil and has come down on the price due to that.
Does it burn oil, or does it puff a bit of smoke on startup?

The latter is a relatively common XR thing, valve guide seals.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:35 AM   #184
Jack Rabbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
Does it burn oil, or does it puff a bit of smoke on startup?

The latter is a relatively common XR thing, valve guide seals.
All he has told me so far is that it burns a bit of oil. I will see for myself when I start it up what exactly that means. If it's obvious it needs more than seals then I will pass.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:49 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blakebird
If it is just rings and the piston and cylinder are good....the cheapest fix IMO is to hone the cylinder and re-ring the piston. As long as the head is off, replace the valve guide seals.
Okay thanks for the info. Looks like that's probably whats happening as there are no leaks. It's not blowing smoke at startup or when running though. I've found some links over how to pull it down - apparently easier on these if you take the engine out of the frame - is that your experience?

Probably be something I'll do over the winter - the weather is too good for riding at the moment!
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:47 PM   #186
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If you want to change the valve stem seals the motor has to come out and you'll need to pull the head off. It's a pretty big deal for just replacing the seals. I'd wait until it's time to do the whole top end.
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:53 AM   #187
RidingQWERTY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
If you want to change the valve stem seals the motor has to come out and you'll need to pull the head off. It's a pretty big deal for just replacing the seals. I'd wait until it's time to do the whole top end.
Yeah will probably do the rings and seals. Any advantage going to a high compression piston (Wiseco 11:1). Any issues with starting or reliability etc? I understand you need to run high octane (is 95 enough?) Anything else required to be moded with the change in compression? What sort of performance increase? Thanks
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:06 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
If you want to change the valve stem seals the motor has to come out and you'll need to pull the head off. It's a pretty big deal for just replacing the seals. I'd wait until it's time to do the whole top end.
Actually, the engine doesn't have to be removed to work on the top end. I installed a high compression piston in my old '96 600R with it in the bike. However, you do have to remove the engine in the older XL600Rs.
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:24 AM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidingQWERTY
Yeah will probably do the rings and seals. Any advantage going to a high compression piston (Wiseco 11:1). Any issues with starting or reliability etc? I understand you need to run high octane (is 95 enough?) Anything else required to be moded with the change in compression? What sort of performance increase? Thanks
Unless you're racing, I'd stay away from 11:1. That kind of compression is really pushing it for pump gas in an old design air cooled engine. Keep it around 10-10.5:1. I ran a 10.8:1 White Brothers stock bore piston in my '96 XR600 with no problems burning 91 octane (the highest I could get at the pump here in California). I do feel I was on the edge of pinging though. I don't know if NZ rates the octane differently than the USA? The performance increase was noticable. It pulled harder everywhere in the rev range and throttle response was better.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:15 AM   #190
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For those of you who have a FcrMx carb on your XR600's - how did you mod the gas tank to clear the throttle housing on the carb. I've got a Crf450 carb mounted on my 91 and am scared to take the heatgun to a $250 tank!!

Thanks for any insight,
Jim
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:23 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer
Actually, the engine doesn't have to be removed to work on the top end. I installed a high compression piston in my old '96 600R with it in the bike. However, you do have to remove the engine in the older XL600Rs.
I suppose if you hate yourself you could leave it in the frame but that sure adds another level of difficulty.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:34 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizard
For those of you who have a FcrMx carb on your XR600's - how did you mod the gas tank to clear the throttle housing on the carb. I've got a Crf450 carb mounted on my 91 and am scared to take the heatgun to a $250 tank!!

Thanks for any insight,
Jim
I've got an FCR on my 95 but I took the easy way out, I replaced the tank with an IMS 4.0 gallon tank. Both fit perfectly.

I'd say go for it with the heat gun. I'd fill the tank with water and rotate it so that only the part that needs to change shape is above the water line. That will keep the rest of the tank from distorting. It will also keep any gas fumes inside from exploding. If you trash it I'll give you my old stocker.
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Old 02-12-2009, 04:16 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
I suppose if you hate yourself you could leave it in the frame but that sure adds another level of difficulty.
I dont know about the older ones, but my 95' was easy. If you have a manual it tells you to remove the intake manifold. This allows you tilting room for the top cover from the carb side and makes it easy. I just did it on my rebuild, no sweat

And thanks again XRider for all your support on my build
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:07 PM   #194
Zombie_Stomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtHopper
I dont know about the older ones, but my 95' was easy. If you have a manual it tells you to remove the intake manifold. This allows you tilting room for the top cover from the carb side and makes it easy. I just did it on my rebuild, no sweat

And thanks again XRider for all your support on my build
I think he means the level of difficulty in working on it after the top covers are off. Having the frame in the way at that point and not being able to attack things like the cam chain tensioner from any angle I could see being a pain in the ass. You can't tip the engine over on it's side to put the rocker box on for instance. (to keep the little followers from swinging out. Maybe I actually need new wave washers in there.) Then again, I've not had the opportunity to do it that way, as I've always been an XL owner!
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:01 PM   #195
mcma111
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XR Top End Build Hints

OK gang here goes

The rocker cover can be removed quite easily with the engine in the bike. BTW the frame makes a nice holder for the lower end while torquing the barrel and head on. Just remove the carb and the carb to engine intake piece. (Took me years to figure this one out) After the rocker cover is loose you have to remove 2 bolts that can't come right out because of the frame rail. The 10mm head center one and the 8mm head one above and to the right of the spark plug. Tilt the cover to the side to remove these bolts. The rocker cover goes to the rear and out the right side.

To reinstall is the reverse except I put a rubber band on the exhaust sub rockers to keep them from dropping down and getting in the way. From 1 arm out the inspection hole to the other sides sub rocker. Get the cover close and put those 2 bolts back in. Press into place and finish with the remaining bolts. Remove rubber band.

Cam chain tensioner. After all these years you'd think I would break down and buy the factory tool, but NO I just install the tensioner in the head, pull it to full release and using a stubby, broad tip screwdriver that is tapped in between the tensioner and the head. It stays in place for installation. After the cam is installed and the cam chain timing is correct the screwdriver is released.
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