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Old 09-12-2012, 05:29 PM   #5641
speedmonkey7
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Oh ouch it sucks bad when you have new mods ro play with and can't. You'll figure it out....if it makes you feel better my bike is still doing its cutting out bullshit...and i only have one more part i can place lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #5642
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedmonkey7 View Post
Oh ouch it sucks bad when you have new mods ro play with and can't. You'll figure it out....if it makes you feel better my bike is still doing its cutting out bullshit...and i only have one more part i can place lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997
jaaja

what part is that?

the only thing left for me to replace is the harness...But all wires check out

Im starting to think the stator ate it...

like the cdi is not getting enough volts to fire

keep us updated too

jajajaja
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #5643
motomike14
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Your regulator should be for the lighting circuit only. I had an 87 XR without lights, so I never ran the regulator. They share the same ground, but it shouldn't throw your ignition circuit out of wack.

The green wire from your stator should plug back into the stock harness, which is your ground; I'd check where your ground actually leads to and double check your connection. Personally, sounds like you may have a bad connection somewhere. May need to tear your stator cover off and check to see if a wire has broke or similar. Take your time to check the wiring harness carefully. Melted or broken wire could be your source of pains.

When CDIs go, they go. You may have an issue there, but would seem weird for you to have two bad ones. What about your pulse generator? Any check for that?
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:13 PM   #5644
motomike14
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Oh...have you checked your voltage from the stator itself?
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:35 PM   #5645
Ghost_Mutant
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Double check grounds and connections

I'm thinking its either a bad ground or connections problems too.

I had a bad connector on my ignition coil a few years ago and it took me awhile to track that one down. It worked every once in awhile, but sometimes it didn't connect and I couldn't start the bike. It ran really poorly at other times as the connection was making and breaking while running.

If its wired like my XR, then the stock setup for AC power to the CDI should use the frame as its ground reference point. I can't see why the Ricky would be any different for AC to the CDI using the stock harness. If the circuit is still setup that way using the stock wiring harness, then the two main ground points for the CDI would be:

-Green wire to frame bolt in the air box
-coil wire to frame of the stator (again cdi coil only, the lighting coil on the Ricky probably has the separate wire which you can use to setup either as AC like stock (by also grounding it which is equivalent to the stock setup), or by connecting directly to the DC regulator, the DC output side is then grounded instead, along with the DS battery)

I have the DC regulator in my Baja DS kit and since it uses the stock stator, a third wire was added to liberate the lighting coil from the stator frame/ground. This is a necessary modification when using the stock stator and the DC regulator. I think the Ricky already has that wire.

Anyway, I agree, the lighting circuit setup should not matter to the CDI power/circuit. So focus on the CDI side of things.

So if you haven't already done so, I would check all the ground points on the wiring harness for 0 ohms to the frame. There is the ground on the CDI itself, and also the ignition coil ground.

I just checked for the 88 wiring diagram on 4strokes, and I think I would ohm out the ground and other cdi connections if you haven't already done so:
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:46 PM   #5646
Carter Pewterschmidt
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WTB twin carb XR600R camshaft

Anyone have a camshaft from an 85-87 XR600R they want to let go of? I'm tearing the head off my XL for a leak and I wanted to try an XR cam while I'm in there.

Send me a PM
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #5647
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomike14 View Post
Oh...have you checked your voltage from the stator itself?
yeah last 2 pages is all me with my complaining details

I get about 30-40vac more on the 30 side

here is the deal there is no green in the harness...its says ground to the frame on the ricky site...

thanks

let me correct that...there is the green at the coil ground and green at the airbox ground, they are connected together...

from the ricky I have a green that goes directly to the frame by itself not anywhere else, then a white and then the red black that goes to the cdi...

yes?
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:16 PM   #5648
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Yeah, I think so.

I just looked at this diagram at Ricky's:
http://www.rickystator.com/04technic.../RSXR600_A.pdf

Is this your stator? Should be two greens, two whites, and one black/red.

Notice that the black/red wire plugs into the stock harness. This is the CDI power wire (which I see on preview you just mentioned). It only shows one wire here and not a pair. Coils have pairs of wires. The other side of the CDI power coil could be connected internally to the stator frame like the stock Honda stator.

From looking at the Ricky diagrams, I don't think the other side of the CDI is connected to the green wires.

Test that for us by measuring resistance between the unconnected green wires and the frame of the bike? Does that read 0 ohms? I don't think it will.

If not, then the Ricky stator has the CDI power coil grounded internally like the stock Honda stator.

If you have this, then the only wire you need to worry about for running the engine is the black/red wire. But you also need to worry about the ground connection through the frame to complete the CDI AC power circuit. The one connection you can't easily check would be the CDI to ground connection on the stator frame. Have to take it apart to see that one.

Do you get any voltage between the black/red wire and the frame when you kick it over? Is that where your are measuring the 30 AC volts?
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:27 PM   #5649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
Anyone have a camshaft from an 85-87 XR600R they want to let go of? I'm tearing the head off my XL for a leak and I wanted to try an XR cam while I'm in there.

Send me a PM
I don't have a spare cam to give/sell, but I just wanted to say that its my understanding that all of the big bore RFVC engines have the same cam grind. Therefore any 85-87 XR6 cam lobe profile should match the cam in your XL6. Also the cam from my 83-84 XR5 will also match.

If you want a different cam grind for more performance, you have to send the cam out to someone for a regrind, but you also have to redo the rockers to match surface hardness. I understand that Cycle Wizard will grind used cams and rockers to match the Honda HRC racing cam. However, I don't know if he will do it for pre 88 cams? Can't think of a reason why he couldn't do this for us old RFVC guys, its just that all the work I've seen mentioned so far was on the newer, auto decomp cams. This cam/rocker reginding is no doubt expensive
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:28 PM   #5650
elsalvadorklr
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I measure from the red black and the green single coming from the stator...

my stator is the 91

there are two pairs of double female whites and double female greens

then a red black a white and a green

what other way is there fo testing this and diagnosing a bad ground or connection for example?
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #5651
Ghost_Mutant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I measure from the red black and the green single coming from the stator...

my stator is the 91

there are two pairs of double female whites and double female greens

then a red black a white and a green

what other way is there fo testing this and diagnosing a bad ground or connection for example?
Looked at the other Ricky diagram for the 91 and up, but didn't see any difference yet:
http://www.rickystator.com/04technic.../RSXR600_B.pdf

Quick question, what is the double female green connected to when you measured the 30 volts? Leave both greens hanging and try the voltage test again.

How about trying the voltage test three ways.

With all the Ricky wires disconnected measure kick AC voltage for:

1) voltage between the black/red and the frame at a good contact point.
2) voltage between the black/red and the single female green.
3) voltage between the black/red and the double female green.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #5652
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
Anyone have a camshaft from an 85-87 XR600R they want to let go of? I'm tearing the head off my XL for a leak and I wanted to try an XR cam while I'm in there.

Send me a PM

I have two twin carb cams for sale. As far as I know the early XR600 and XL600 cams are the same thing.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:50 PM   #5653
rogervize
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I measure from the red black and the green single coming from the stator...

my stator is the 91

there are two pairs of double female whites and double female greens

then a red black a white and a green

what other way is there fo testing this and diagnosing a bad ground or connection for example?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUGAs...8&feature=plcp
Connect a 110V AC 15W globe to the Exciter wire(and Gnd)...it should glimmer at kick-over
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:05 PM   #5654
Ghost_Mutant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogervize View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUGAs...8&feature=plcp
Connect a 110V AC 15W globe to the Exciter wire(and Gnd)...it should glimmer at kick-over
Good video. Thanks for posting it, now I won't have to duplicate this test with my scope tomorrow.

The video shows about 200 peak Volts when the engine is running. Given this peaking/intermittent nature of the waveform, 30 volts on an analog meter probably means the stator is still good.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:39 PM   #5655
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I could not find info on how the Ricky is wired internally. So I drew a picture on how I think it should be wired:

So there are five wires:

1 wire: Black/red to CDI
2 wires: One pair of white/green wires (with single female connectors)
2 wires: One pair of white/green wires (with double female connectors)

But there are actually six wires, two for each coil in the stator. The other side of the black/red CDI coil is just grounded to the stator frame and does not come out with the others.

However, we have reported here that the 30 volts is measured between the black/red wire and the single female green wire????? Suggesting that the green wire is connected internally to the other side of the CDI power coil???

So, it doesn't make sense to me

I'll sleep on it and check back tomorrow. Happy testing


EDIT: I see this morning that my diagram is not loading the one I thought I uploaded to Photo Bucket. I don't think there should be a connection between the green wires, but its now showing in my browser? So that short green stub, if you see it, I don't think the Ricky has that. Funny however is that in my Photo Bucket window, the stub is missing. So I'm not sure which version of the diagram everyone else sees? Anyway, I think all three coils should be isolated from each other with only the CDI power having an internal ground to frame. That configuration would make the most sense to me and be easily configured for various AC or DC lighting setups while still using the stock harness for CDI/Ignition components.

I relinked the image, and I hope its now fixed!

Also, let me add another diagram for the stock stator connections:

Note the common ground between the CDI and Lighting coils here. If you are converting to DC and want the battery to have the frame as a ground point, then the lighting ground in the stator must be broken and a third wire brought out instead. My XR has this stator mod done by the previous owner which has held up so far. I've been wanting to upgrade to a Ricky for running a brighter headlight, but since its working I've been riding it instead of wrenching on it!

Ghost_Mutant screwed with this post 09-13-2012 at 06:33 AM Reason: wrong diagram linked & added stock diagram
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