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Old 03-05-2013, 01:03 PM   #7156
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
deejay what was your jetting? or is all that black soot on the piston from a leak? that looks really black and sooty
I've been mucking about with my jetting for a long while now because of a persistent problem with stalling and erratic idling.
Jetting is probably far from ideal, causing the soot, with this jetting it's been the best managable.

I've replaced just about all the electrical components, tried all kinds of jetting, checked for air leaks around the intake boots, new air cut-off valve, the works.

Now I'm hoping that replacing the crank pulse generator finally proves to be the culprit, this is the only electrical component I haven't replaced yet.

Fingers crossed...
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:06 PM   #7157
elsalvadorklr
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what IS you jetting and are you using a jet kit or stock jets and needle?

thats what my prox piston looked like with an xl600 crank that sat too low that along with stock 165main for my year bike

very similar...the exhaist ports and oem muffler, and header were packed with soot

just sayin

p.s. erratic idling can be from being too rich...Ive been there big time...I finally learned my lesson
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:16 PM   #7158
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post

Now I'm hoping that replacing the crank pulse generator finally proves to be the culprit, this is the only electrical component I haven't replaced yet.

Fingers crossed...

I have 2 spare stators, an extra coil, extra plug cap, extra pg, extra cdi,

its jetting in the end.

good luck

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Old 03-05-2013, 01:36 PM   #7159
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I have 2 spare stators, an extra coil, extra plug cap, extra pg, extra cdi,

its jetting in the end.

good luck

I have the dual carbs, so I doubt my jetting will be meaningful to you.
Stock is 45 pilot and 2x 225 mains off the top of my head.

Iīm not sure what jetting I put in last, itīs a while ago, I think it was somewhere around 55 pilot and 2x 245 mains.

I do have:
- opened up aibox
- twin air filter
- mildly ported head
- oversized headers
- FMF Q4 muffler with chopped spark arrestor

I've read that even fully stock, upping to a 48 is a good idea, since they were a little lean from factory. So I'd think 55 wouldn't be too much. I've tried a 48 aswell btw.

I have about all available sizes of pilot jets by now... problem remains
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:41 PM   #7160
elsalvadorklr
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well Im no expert on the xr dual carbs, I was ok on the ydis xt dual carbs

is your stator new? thats where you want to start first...everything else has less importance

lastly the pg is the least of all, its just a trigger on a magnet...yes or no

it has no power or meaning..yes or no

unlike the stator and coil that rely on power to give the goods

just sayin

o the pilot you jumped 4 sizes thats too much man go to 50s and mess with the fuel screws...???? yes?
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:42 PM   #7161
deejay_xr
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A while back one of you (Christian?) replaced the seal on the clutch activator arm on the stator cover. Wanna let me in on the secret of removing the arm?

My Clymer manual bugs me, so I thought I'd bug you
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:43 PM   #7162
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
well Im no expert on the xr dual carbs, I was ok on the ydis xt dual carbs

is your stator new? thats where you want to start first...everything else has less importance

lastly the pg is the least of all, its just a trigger on a magnet...yes or no

it has no power or meaning..yes or no

unlike the stator and coil that rely on power to give the goods

just sayin

o the pilot you jumped 4 sizes thats too much man go to 50s and mess with the fuel screws...???? yes?
I know, that's why it's the only electrical part that hasn't been swapped yet, I'm willing to try it now, who knows.
Stator is less than 2 years old, aftermarket

When the engine is back together again I'll be messing around some more with jetting, I've no illusions about that :P
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:46 PM   #7163
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
A while back one of you (Christian?) replaced the seal on the clutch activator arm on the stator cover. Wanna let me in on the secret of removing the arm?

My Clymer manual bugs me, so I thought I'd bug you
HAPPY TO HELP

Im happy cause

REAL MADRID JUST WON AGAINST MANCHESTER UNITED AT 0LD TRAFFORD!

jajajaja

so yeah

pretty much

you need to heat the arm or case a bit as if never replaced the arm corrodes and becomes too tight a fit inside the case

that and you need a some good vice grips, pull and turn out while tapping with a good screwdriver at the lever arm straight out...its impossible to just pull out without any tools

once arm is off all you need to do is clean needle bearing and seal groove...press new one in and put arm back on with some grease on the shaft

polish shaft of arm smooth while off

cheers

oh when installing do so in a circular motion, it helps
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:03 PM   #7164
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
HAPPY TO HELP

Im happy cause

REAL MADRID JUST WON AGAINST MANCHESTER UNITED AT 0LD TRAFFORD!

jajajaja

so yeah

pretty much

you need to heat the arm or case a bit as if never replaced the arm corrodes and becomes too tight a fit inside the case

that and you need a some good vice grips, pull and turn out while tapping with a good screwdriver at the lever arm straight out...its impossible to just pull out without any tools

once arm is off all you need to do is clean needle bearing and seal groove...press new one in and put arm back on with some grease on the shaft

polish shaft of arm smooth while off

cheers

oh when installing do so in a circular motion, it helps
Congrats bud!

So I just pry it out, heat if needed?
I don't have to remove the dowel-like thingamajig that's at the bottom (the 'cup' that pushes on the rod) or something?

Edit: nevermind, took out the cup and the arm budges, look like it won't give too much trouble.

Thanks !
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:07 PM   #7165
elsalvadorklr
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sorry

yes

remove circular cup

you will see the indent on the shaft where it sits

remove that first

ps. accordinf to ALL manual honda included all you do is REMOVE shaft

its this kind of vagueness on oem manuals and aftermarket that bugs the shit ouyt of me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

really how is that not obvious

you need to heat or pry etc...a lot

it took me a good 20 minutes

in the end for me it was to hold the case in a vice and then using a long screwdriver tap the lever right at the actuator arm whil turning the shaft, tap tap tap and turn tap tap tap

good luck
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #7166
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
sorry

yes

remove circular cup

you will see the indent on the shaft where it sits

remove that first

ps. accordinf to ALL manual honda included all you do is REMOVE shaft

its this kind of vagueness on oem manuals and aftermarket that bugs the shit ouyt of me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

really how is that not obvious

you need to heat or pry etc...a lot

it took me a good 20 minutes

in the end for me it was to hold the case in a vice and then using a long screwdriver tap the lever right at the actuator arm whil turning the shaft, tap tap tap and turn tap tap tap

good luck
Thanks

Yeah these manuals are very good in going into great detail where it isnīt needed, and then just saying stuff like īremove partī where thereīs tricks involved

Arm came out without having to heat it, thatīs good.

Now, how the hell do I get the needle bearing out. My pinky finger hurts from trying, thereīs no special tool I could think of to do this
I could heat it, but I donīt think itīd be a good idea to stick my pinky in after I do

deejay_xr screwed with this post 03-05-2013 at 02:27 PM
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:29 PM   #7167
elsalvadorklr
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are you replacing bearing too? thats even harder

no need to replace just clean and reoil

seal just prys off install new one carefully, I use a flat scredriver to pry off and then pres the new one in with a socket or old seal and a rubber mallet

cheers
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #7168
Royal Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejay_xr View Post
I have the dual carbs, so I doubt my jetting will be meaningful to you.
Stock is 45 pilot and 2x 225 mains off the top of my head.

Iīm not sure what jetting I put in last, itīs a while ago, I think it was somewhere around 55 pilot and 2x 245 mains.

I do have:
- opened up aibox
- twin air filter
- mildly ported head
- oversized headers
- FMF Q4 muffler with chopped spark arrestor

I've read that even fully stock, upping to a 48 is a good idea, since they were a little lean from factory. So I'd think 55 wouldn't be too much. I've tried a 48 aswell btw.

I have about all available sizes of pilot jets by now... problem remains
Could you show me how open your airbox is?
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:40 PM   #7169
deejay_xr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
are you replacing bearing too? thats even harder

no need to replace just clean and reoil

seal just prys off install new one carefully, I use a flat scredriver to pry off and then pres the new one in with a socket or old seal and a rubber mallet

cheers
I wonīt be replacing it, but I would like to take it out for proper cleaning, if I stick my pinky in and turn the needles I can feel dirt in there. Gues Iīll just leave it in place and flush it with brake cleaner
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:44 PM   #7170
deejay_xr
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Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
Could you show me how open your airbox is?

Not as open as yours, you hacked the whole top out right?

I removed the snorkel and cut away the 'baffle' at the top.
Sides are like this, pics from older setup, but you get the idea



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