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Old 04-18-2013, 12:55 AM   #7816
Royal Club
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Location: The Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
which model the 5100 or 7100 or the dino 300v?

thanks bud

christian
7100 and 300v are full synthetic right? those will give problems i think..
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:36 AM   #7817
lookfar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royal Club View Post
7100 and 300v are full synthetic right? those will give problems i think..
Just make sure that your oil does NOT have any friction modifiers in it, as these will play havoc with the clutch......
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:04 AM   #7818
RoostMaster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
hey guys

any of you in asutralia or the south or other countries where motul oil is more common...

have any of you used motul 5100 and liked it? Ive read many spanish and argentinian threads where they seem to love it!

its a semi ester blend...

its on sale down here and as cheap as my lovely delo400

its getting real hot down here and what the hell, trying a new oil wont kill me...

just wonderin

thanks
Hey 'Salvador,

I run Motul on my '09 Kato 4fiddy & G'box on the Kato 2hunge and won't use anything else, love the stuff. It is very popular down under... just wish I could post that it was cheap here as well !
However ! I use genuine Honda GN4 on my piggy.
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:14 AM   #7819
RoostMaster
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Rear shock tips

Have pulled the forks and rear shock out ready for Eibach make overs, I've never done a shock before but done heaps of forks, anyone got any tips for the rear rebuild, I've ordered seals and dealer will do the nitro refill. What type of to use and how much oil?

Just about to strip it down, Roost.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:58 AM   #7820
Captain115
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Location: Brisbane, Straya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoostMaster View Post
Have pulled the forks and rear shock out ready for Eibach make overs, I've never done a shock before but done heaps of forks, anyone got any tips for the rear rebuild, I've ordered seals and dealer will do the nitro refill. What type of to use and how much oil?

Just about to strip it down, Roost.
Mind if I ask what the dealer has quoted for a refill? I've been wondering what ballpark figure it was, especially if I do all the rest of the shock rebuild myself...

Cheers,

John
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:12 AM   #7821
Kenno
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[QUOTE=RoostMaster;21213375]Have pulled the forks and rear shock out ready for Eibach make overs, I've never done a shock before but done heaps of forks, anyone got any tips for the rear rebuild, I've ordered seals and dealer will do the nitro refill. What type of to use and how much oil?

Just about to strip it down, Roost.[/QUOTE

Hi Roostmaster,

I did my rear shock 18 months ago, went and got a can of honda 10w cushion oil which was the same price as everything else anyway.

I used just under half a litre with spillage etc as well.

The manual has instructions but here is how I dealt with bleeding it.

Once I had put the new seals etc in and had it ready for assembly I fitted the nitrogen bladder with a couple of PSI of air (you'll figure out why if you don't) then the damping valve just enough to seal the oring then filled the main chamber with oil to the bottom(upside down).
Fit the rod and piston and rock it sideways a touch to let most air past it then push the piston down into the oil and let it bleed through the valves to the rod side (do it over an oil tray because a fair bit will come out), don't push the piston all the way in, there is no point at this stage.
Put in your rod seal unit with new seals fitted then fit the circlip into the keeper groove, all parts should already be on the rod before fitting the piston anyway.
There will be air in the oil but you did your best up to this point, now turn the shock over so the rod is hanging down and with your shock sitting on the edge of a bench slowly move the rod/piston assembly up and down to let air in the rod side bleed through to the main chamber via the piston valve plates, you should try and keep it vertical, i did it over half an hour for a couple of minutes at a time slowly to get rid of suspended air bubbles as well.
You will feel the valving resistance improve as air goes from the rod side to the top of the main chamber.
Let the shock sit in that vertical postion for half an hour to allow micro bubbles to get to the top and ensure sure the rod is fully extended because the rod uses up space for oil volume otherwise.
Half an hour later carefully secure the shock at a 45 degree angle with the nitrogen bladder to the upside and remove the damping valve unit to expose the oil chamber in the main shock body and fill with oil using a syringe or small funnel, you can move the shock down to horizontal to let the last air bubbles out now as well, get oil into the bladder chamber hole as much as possible as well, no air is the goal.
Install the compression damping valve with the valve screwed right out on the softest setting so it bypasses some oil as you tighten the fitting.
Take your shock to the nitrogen man before you put the spring on ($6 to fill it at Wayne Leonards in Cairns) and when you are ready to fill it compress the shock vertically so the rod goes all the way in while you hold your valve open on the bladder just enough until it reaches full compression then let the valve go, do not extend you shock now or you will draw air in around the bladder, get the gas man to put 165PSI of nitrogen in there which should seal it up nicely and it will start to extend your shock which you can assist carefully now.
Take it home and spring it up.

The reason I did the compressing of the bladder with the piston at gas time was to get rid of all air inside the bladder because the first time I gassed it I left that part out and my shock got so hot I thought it was going to explode and I had no damping at all due to thin oil at high temp on the Cape York ride, nitrogen seems to run it cooler.
My Nephew was on my other XR600 right alongside me and that shock was not boiling hot with the original shock still in place from 1994.

Keep everything spotless too.

I have the Eibachs but I reckon the stockies are better on my old 94 for single track, Eibach ok for high speed roads, just my opinion but my 94 gets ridden a lot more as a result.

Cheers
Ken

My 94 nice and steady, steep hills although you would never know.
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Kenno screwed with this post 04-18-2013 at 06:48 AM
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:25 AM   #7822
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino3310 View Post
chur bro.


half a turn in and she was sorted

nice! the fuel screw works, a lot of guys never mess with it but it reall does make a huge difference for things like these...that little sputter or hesitation at partial throttle and steady can almost always be fixed with the fuel screw unless you have a way off pilot jet

cheers
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:30 AM   #7823
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookfar View Post
Just make sure that your oil does NOT have any friction modifiers in it, as these will play havoc with the clutch......
the 5100 is an diester blend, supposedly great for our bikes...

Im only interested cayuse its on sale and it a semy syn if you will and I could use the benefits associated with these types of oils, mostly high heat resistance

however Im sure Ill be having to top off more often since these oils are more volatile

Ive been reading a lot on spanish and english speaking forums and the only negative true negative is that it can sip more oil than a regular dino

Im not used to oil sipping since diesel spec oils are famous for holding their viscosity and not prone to shearing

I read up on some diesel oils btw and they had a synthetic shell oil that was designed to last 150k miles on fleet trucks! holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

jajajja
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:34 AM   #7824
tjrockit
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Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I wanted to make brackets that would tilt my infamous IMS4 galon tank up and back a bit since the wings sat so close to the head that in real hot climbs it would boil my gas!!!1

id really be interested in seing pics of your finished brackets

that way I could switch back and forth if I wanted too

thanks
The way I made the brackets is I got a piece of clear plastic, bolted it to the tank and then marked where the hole needed to be to mount to the frame. I had to change the position of the one of the bolts that attaches to the tank to get the angle I needed. I bet you could use the same method.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:36 AM   #7825
elsalvadorklr
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thanks man, not urgent but just one of those projects since it seems my bike will never be sold....

wtf economy?

jajaja
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:56 AM   #7826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
which model the 5100 or 7100 or the dino 300v?

thanks bud

christian
I use the 7100 (full synthetic).

Cheers!
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:06 AM   #7827
elsalvadorklr
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interesting what weight?
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:53 AM   #7828
Fourstring
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Anyone know about brake compatibility between an XR and an XL of similar model year? It looks like the braket and disc are the same part number, but the caliper and pad are a different part.

Do they swap straight on? XL parts are way easier to find than XR in the '86 vintage for some reason.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:00 AM   #7829
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoostMaster View Post
Have pulled the forks and rear shock out ready for Eibach make overs, I've never done a shock before but done heaps of forks, anyone got any tips for the rear rebuild, I've ordered seals and dealer will do the nitro refill. What type of to use and how much oil?

Just about to strip it down, Roost.
You cannot skip grinding down the peening on the shaft. it will break if you do not. I know this. maybe I should do a shock rebuild thread. Seems to be alot of people into this recently.

Shock Service https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwZ-Ca0X5duLNjViYjY1N2QtYjY3MS00MzdkLWFlNTUtNmFmNjE0OT FjOTE2&authkey=CO-Np5cM.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:08 AM   #7830
elsalvadorklr
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nice maybe Ill do my 88 shock!

thanks
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