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Old 06-11-2010, 09:31 PM   #1186
Ghost_Mutant
looking for bionics
 
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: border of granite & flats
Oddometer: 704
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111
I would suggest you go to www.cheapcycleparts.com and use their parts fitch and compare the fork innards for the different years. They have a very good parts fitch and also the cheapest prices I have found for OE parts.

As for my forks PM me a bid and we'll see. They are just spares resting in the garage.
I've spent some time at Babbitts looking at the diagrams, but I'll check out cheapcycleparts next.

I have four sets of XR500 43 mm forks. So far I've put together the best pair I can manage from the parts I have on hand. Problem with my used stuff is the teflon bushing in the housings. I have eight lower housings, and all of them have worn teflon bushings. This part was not supposed to be replaced as far as I can tell, and it would take a special tool and press fitting to swap in a new one. Only problem that that idea is I can't find any new 43 mm teflon bushings for sale that will fit these original 43 mm housings.

So I quickly realized that a fork upgrade was needed to get parts with replaceable sliding surfaces. If you're looking at a used older XR and you see vertical scratches in the side of the fork rods, it's probably because the teflon coating has worn away and there is metal to metal contact causing the scratches. That's how my old forks were.

I'll send you a PM with an offer double what I paid for the ones FedEx Ground lost. But that is still really cheap compared to the going rate
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:26 PM   #1187
elsalvadorklr
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hey guys!
Any of you have info on the crank bearings?
I managed to get a 6308 left hand bearing but the supposed 6307 rh bearing is not standard(hence the oem price I guess) anybody have any experience with non oem bearings and why 6307 is not the size?

by the way the diff is its 3mm narrower than the standard 6307 one.

Im all ears once again!
christian
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:40 PM   #1188
docious
Shit Needs a Rebuild...
 
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Valves

Hello all,
its been a while since i have been around here, but I had a quick question that some of you could answer. Last summer I had my valves re-seated and new ones put in along with new valve seals. While doing an epic ride on the OBDR I realized that my bike was still burning oil. Now that the weather is nice again I decided to go up a size on my piston and bore it out to 98mm (hoping that I would finally stop burning oil). While putting the engine back together I was cleaning up the head and noticing how much carbon built up on my valves after only about 900 miles. I tried scrubbing things the best I could, but after spraying some carb cleaner in the ports to test the seating of the valves I noticed that at least 2 of the 4 were slowly leaking.

So here is my question... Do you think I need new valves and have them re-cut again? I don't have the tools to take the springs off, but I can see there is a fair amount carbon build up on the valves around where they seal. I did try to clean them up with a wire brush and some compressed air.

I am assuming there should be no liquid coming out, or is there a small amount of tolerance?

Thanks for all of your wisdom.
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:41 AM   #1189
Dino3310
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Location: waikato gravel and sand
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Hi guys, is the air valve on the top end of the forks(93 XR6) just for bleeding or can air be added for more stiffness, if so how much air?


just watching the wolrd cup - NZ v SLOV 0/0 half time
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:53 AM   #1190
mcma111
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Valves

docious,

No there should be NO leaks. With such low usage on the engine I would suggest that you return the head to whoever did the machine work for a check up. If you don't get any satisfaction it's time for a new machinest. As to replacing the valves it all depends on the mating surface of the valve seat, if there is enough material for another cut while still seating correctly.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:09 PM   #1191
docious
Shit Needs a Rebuild...
 
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Thanks Steve. I figured as much, but just thought I would double check!
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:11 PM   #1192
docious
Shit Needs a Rebuild...
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 32
You can add air, but I think stock settings are 0 psi or close to that. If you are going to add air make sure that your forks are completely uncompressed. Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino3310
Hi guys, is the air valve on the top end of the forks(93 XR6) just for bleeding or can air be added for more stiffness, if so how much air?


just watching the wolrd cup - NZ v SLOV 0/0 half time
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:50 PM   #1193
dougrender
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And what is the recommended pressure on the rear reservoir?

-Doug
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:38 PM   #1194
mcma111
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The rear shock has a nitrogen charge. For some reason I think the pressure is 185lbs but that is just a guess. It is not something you want to play with.
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 06-15-2010, 04:22 PM   #1195
jamin_mathis
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: L.A. CA. Echo Park y'all
Oddometer: 2,519
Hay all just picked up a 89'

with
CA plate
Mikuni Flatslide Carburetor
Scott triple clamp
Ansur bars
Rear disk conversion
uni filter
super trap exhaust
And some other stuff I can't remember right now

It had been sitting for months and it was running poorly bad idle and bogging but I cleaned the tank and carb and changed the fuel filter and now its pulling a lot harder than my XR650l

Any how I haven't been able to get it to cold start with out rolling it down a hill. I've jumped up and down on the thing like a monkey for 10mins at a time with no luck. Once warmed up it will usually start with 1 or 2 kicks. Any tips on how to cold start this beast?
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Old 06-15-2010, 06:52 PM   #1196
HeadTrauma
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Location: Antelope Valley, SoCal
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Sounds like the idle screw is set on the lean side. Is there a choke on it?
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Old 06-16-2010, 12:14 AM   #1197
Dino3310
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Location: waikato gravel and sand
Oddometer: 672
Quote:
Originally Posted by docious
You can add air, but I think stock settings are 0 psi or close to that. If you are going to add air make sure that your forks are completely uncompressed. Good luck!
cheers Mate
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:25 AM   #1198
JAB
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Location: Beautiful Monrovia
Oddometer: 1,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamin_mathis
Any how I haven't been able to get it to cold start with out rolling it down a hill. I've jumped up and down on the thing like a monkey for 10mins at a time with no luck. Once warmed up it will usually start with 1 or 2 kicks. Any tips on how to cold start this beast?
If you think it idles OK my reco would be to keep the throttle closed when you kick it cold. On my 600, if I even look at the throttle when cold, no start. Make sure the idle and pilot circuits are clear and set. Make sure the plug cap and wire are in good order. Good luck.
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:52 PM   #1199
BigNastybrp
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Location: high speed boogie land, Sunny Ca.
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if you have not tried it give it a few pumps to prim it, before you kick it two pumps at first. I started doing three pump of gas for the first start and its first kick now cold. mind you this is with a fcr on my 600.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:08 AM   #1200
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 4,076
clutch part question

hey dudes whats up?
anybody know where part # 11 goes, its not in my box of parts that the bike came with and I have assembled the clutch(out of the case) and everything is there except this PIECE A. also the manual makes no mention of it on installation and dissassembly...is it in the case somewhere?

Thanks
Im asking because I have to make another order and this one has to be the definitive one in order to start rebuilding(I couldn't find the RH crank bearing at all the bearing suppliers here. oh well) sooooo...please help me out!

Cheers

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