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Old 01-16-2009, 09:10 PM   #91
DisTech OP
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Damper Rod tool

The DR650 manual lists a couple special tools for getting the damper rod out of the fork tubes:
  • 09940-34520: "T" handle
  • 09940-34592: Attachment "G"
Over in the DR650 thread eldavo references and links the Suzuki DR650 Wiki that explain how to make your own tool. Basically it's a 30mm allen. On the wiki they used a 3/4" bolt that has a 28.3mm head. I found that a nut for a 20mm bolt actually is 30mm. I used that nut a 1/2" bolt, 1/2" nut and a 1/2" nut with the nylon insert. $5 from the hardware store. I used the nut with the nylon insert because the cone shaped end forced the 20mm nut to center.


1/2" nut take a 3/4" socket.


30mm allen nice fit.


The Race Tech Cartridge Emulator instructions for removing the damping rod had me kind of freaked out, "Take the fork off the bike and disassemble them. An air impact and a long Allen socket helps a lot. For stubborn Damping Rod Allen bolts use a drift and beat on the head of the damping rod bolt to jar the threads loose...". Sounds like I'd be using brokentap.com again. I didn't have any problem. Then damper rod allens were tight, but came right out.
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:18 PM   #92
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Cool stuff!

We did talk about the "sweet" setup numbers for the emulators, right?
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:55 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick
Cool stuff!
We did talk about the "sweet" setup numbers for the emulators, right?
Hi Rick. If we did talk about that, I did not retain of that data. Please refresh me.
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:59 PM   #94
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Race Tech Cartridge Emulators

Mine appear to have come with the 40lb/in emulator valve springs with 3 turns of preload. They also need the circlips.


For a close tolerance fit.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:49 PM   #95
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Dis -

Way to go on the 30mm nut. I did not have easy access to metric bolts/nuts, so I used the 3/4" bolt and wrote it up. I like your way better. I'll send a note to Bigboy to update the FAQ and Wiki.

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Old 01-18-2009, 05:27 PM   #96
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Distech: Did you drill the holes in the damper rod? I'd like to see that. Or at least hear about it. I have all the stuff on stand-by waiting for the temps to go up some. It's not gotten out of the teens since last weekend around here.
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Old 01-18-2009, 06:38 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpathump
Dis -
Way to go on the 30mm nut. I did not have easy access to metric bolts/nuts, so I used the 3/4" bolt and wrote it up. I like your way better. I'll send a note to Bigboy to update the FAQ and Wiki.
Rick
Thanks. It's a 20mm nut, but the wrench size is 30mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
Distech: Did you drill the holes in the damper rod? I'd like to see that. Or at least hear about it. I have all the stuff on stand-by waiting for the temps to go up some. It's not gotten out of the teens since last weekend around here.
Rusty, I'm about to post those pictures and I used your method of using the old seals in place of the special tool to seat the new seals!
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:09 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
Rusty, I used your method of using the old seals in place of the special tool to seat the new seals!
If there is a cheap way out, I'll find it. Glad to know someone was able to use that idea.

Your pictures are very helpful. Thanks for doing this. Russ
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:56 PM   #99
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Forks

Once the damper rod bolt was out and the oil drained, I got the tubes apart and then put all the new parts on for this picture (kinda dumb cause they pretty much have to be put on one at a time).


Slide the inner tube in with the inner tube metal on, then tap the outer tube metal down into place. The top of the outer tube metal must be even with that step in the outer tube or the seal will not seat.


The DR650 manual list a special tool for installing the fork seals:
  • 09940-52860: Front fork oil seal installer
Back to the DR650 thread where Rusty Rocket explains how to use the old seals in place of the tool. Cut as much rubber off the outside so the old seal wont get stuck. I cut an inner ring off too.


Greased the new seal up and shoved it in, then slid the old seal on and hit it with the hammer. Have to work your way around because the opposite side will want to spring back out.


Once the new seal is seated...


slide the tube apart and the old seal should come right out.


Slide the dust seal on


and then put the stopper ring back in.


Following Race Tech instructions, drilled the existing holes to 5/16". All the holes are supposed to on a 7/16" spacing, but the existing ones on mine were only 5/16" apart. I still spaced the new ones at 7/16".


Pilot.


As good as to be expected without a drill press.


With a damper rod, emulator, spring, two washers and the tubes fully extended I had 2 1/2" from the top of the washers to the top of the inner tube. The fork cap is 11/16" from the lip to the end. For 1/2" preload I used a tubing cutter to cut the plastic spacer to 2 5/16".


With spacer and washers there is 3/16" to top of tube.


All that fancy math some how made 1/2" preload!
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:15 PM   #100
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Nice work and great photos! Thanks for sharing. How did your bushings look?
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:28 PM   #101
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FMF Hi-Flo stainless headpipe, Two Brothers M7 midtube & muffler

There she is! $125 from the machine shop. Looks like they used a pretty heavy stainless pipe because they machined it to fit over the larger 1 3/4" Two Brothers midtube and then it steps down but still fits over the 1 5/8" FMF headpipe. The FMF headpipe is a nice tight fit, hopefully no clamp required.


The guy at the machine shop cut off the split reduced section of the midtube but there's still a little choking my fat pipe!


Meet Thor.


Finally, finally, finally! Full diameter to the muffler!


Well, I think it looks damn good.


See the weld is on the headpipe right next to the frame? That is really close, I mean it is almost touching. How big of a gap is there supposed to be there? Anyone with a FMF headpipe care to check? LukasM?
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:48 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
If there is a cheap way out, I'll find it. Glad to know someone was able to use that idea.
Your pictures are very helpful. Thanks for doing this. Russ
No problem. Working on the forks is kinda cool because I get two tries for screw ups and pictures, ha!

Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Rick
Nice work and great photos! Thanks for sharing. How did your bushings look?
Hi Rick. They actually looked pretty good, but they are replaced now anyway.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:00 PM   #103
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Outstanding write up and detail! The bike looks great and I am drooling to see more updates.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:07 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey1
Outstanding write up and detail! The bike looks great and I am drooling to see more updates.
Thanks. Here come a couple updates.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:29 PM   #105
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More Forks

To put the proper amount of fork oil in the forks the DR650 manual lists yet another special tool:
  • 09943-74111: Fork oil level gauge
The oil level is supposed to be 6.5" from the top of the tube. I figured I just make a dip stick, but 10wt oil is so thin I couldn't really tell where it was on my improvised stick. What I ended up doing was cutting the stick to 6.5" and looking down the tube and watching for when the end touched the surface of the oil. Pour some oil in, pour some out, until it was just right.


The Moose fork skins come with tiny zip ties that are supposed to secure the bottom end, but they are too short to use on the DR650 fork outer tubes. I bought some much beefier longer ones. Greased up the bearings on the triple tree and put the forks back on.
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