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Old 04-12-2009, 10:43 PM   #151
bigdog99
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Speedo accuracy

The speedo on my 89 was always about 10% optimistic. The speedo failed at about 90k, and I had it rebuilt at Palo Alto Speedo. They did a great job (~$150 as I recall) and mentioned that they had recalibrated it with the rebuild. It was spot-on after that.

Unfortunately, I lost the entire front-end into the side of a deer at about 105k and had to buy a brand-new speedo. Yep, about 10% fast again.

Had my tranny rebuilt at Ozzie's BMW Center in Chico, CA at about 100k. That tarnny now has about 40k and is still smooth and quiet. Never any metal on the plug. Not sure what their lead times are right now though.

I think if I had a pristine R80ST and wanted a GS, I would sell the ST, as they still bring fairly decent prices, and buy a GS.

I was wondering why you think the HT panniers are better than the Jesses you originally had??
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:02 AM   #152
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Thanks all for the help.

Anton-
Good to know about those little slivers. I think they may have come from a few premature downshifts into first resulting in some crunching. I figured it would remove material from somewhere. I'll continue to ride it and pay close attention to it. Thanks for sharing your experience.

hardwaregrrl-
Thanks for the loaner tranny offer.

bigdog99-
The bike was gifted to me, so it would've been kind of disrespectful to turn around a sell it, so I decided to just build it into what I wanted. As for the luggage, I was just really fed up with doing business with jesse luggage. It's just a horribly run business that's rude and disrespectful to its customers. The bags themselves weren't that well made, the top opening was really small, the "powder coating" flaked off on its own after a couple months, the racks were REALLY poorly designed and required tools to remove the bags from the bike. Anyway, after months and months of back and forth trying to work out all the problems with the luggage, I just told them to keep their bags and give me my money back. They kept my bags and charged me a $200 restocking fee
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:56 AM   #153
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Just thought I'd throw this out there:

I got a brand new OEM GS solo seat when Siebenrock sent me a defective repro. At first it was great, but the foam has softened up quite a bit and no longer supports my 210 pounds that well. On longer days, my ass bones become intimately familiar with the contours of the seatpan. Anybody got a solo corbin they'd care to trade straight across? (hopefully not with a goofy colored cover)
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:42 AM   #154
bgoodsoil
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I know they're expensive but you won't regret the money spent on a Russell. I swap out to my spare stock seat when I go offroading and it's torture compared to the Russell.

After doing all the suspension mods to my bike my butt shifted a bit and I'm not quite in the pocket any more. I called Russell and talked to the guy that actually built my seat. He told me to send it in, he'd do an adjustment for free and even pay for shipping.

I've done a lot of stuff to my G/S but l appreciate that seat more than anything else.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:17 AM   #155
SOLO LOBO
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I had a Corbin solo for my R100GS for a while, it totally sucked.. (at least IMHO)... they are dished out and don't allow you to change position at all when riding... also, they are cut down, and take away leg room......

Well, I also had Corbin's on my R100RS and K75S and did 50K miles with those, hating them the whole way as well
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 04-26-2009, 09:08 PM   #156
DreadPirateKermit
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Wow great thread! I stumbled on here today after helping a friend drop the tranny out of his R80RT yesterday...got those old "gee I'd really like to have an Airhead GS someday" juices flowing. Don't tell my wife though, because she has a thing against the "Bring More Wampun" roundel. :lol

Seat: It will cost more than a Corbin, but having Rich's there in Seattle rebuild the one you have will be way more cost effective in the long run. Another choice is Don Weber at Mr. Ed's Moto in Albany, OR, he did a great job on my Tuono seat. I've ridden almost 1300 miles in 24 hours on that seat and the stock one was painful at 200!

Transmission: I know jack about Airheads, but have you ever lubed the clutch splines? Oh, wait, they are in a 'dry' area, not oil bath - never mind! Back to lurking...
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:04 AM   #157
Readymeal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadPirateKermit
...

... have you ever lubed the clutch splines?

Oh, wait, they are in a 'dry' area, not oil bath - never mind! Back to lurking...
I know the answer of the first part of your question Sorry Airhead Wanker...i could not resist :)

however even in a dry area splines still need to be lubed with some Honda moly 60 or something similar.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:14 AM   #158
bgoodsoil
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yeah, I think he's got the spline lube thing handled
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:19 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
yeah, I think he's got the spline lube thing handled
you meant he had the spline lube handled
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:25 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
The cam has 2 oil sealing o-rings on it. You'll need to drain the FD before pulling the cam. You may want to replace those o-rings while you're at it. Nathan said there's nothing at the hardware store to match them exactly(he's checked). You have to use the BMW part.
If your G/S is a real 85 you will not need to drain the oil from the final drive as these models were fitted with a metal tube running through the FD housing.
The O-ring is metric, so you will have to ask for a 2mm x 16mm if I remember correct, but you can measure the shaft for the ID of the O-ring.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:03 PM   #161
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
If your G/S is a real 85 you will not need to drain the oil from the final drive as these models were fitted with a metal tube running through the FD housing.
The O-ring is metric, so you will have to ask for a 2mm x 16mm if I remember correct, but you can measure the shaft for the ID of the O-ring.
Is that unique to '85s or do other years have this tube as well? I'm assuming your the same "dust devil" as on Wild Dogs. I really liked that DIY HPN thread over there a while back. SERIOUSLY hot shit. What kind of turn around time do you get from them for reinforcing frames?
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:25 PM   #162
Dustdevill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog99

I think if I had a pristine R80ST and wanted a GS, I would sell the ST, as they still bring fairly decent prices, and buy a GS.
I don't agree, Airhead Wranglers ST fitted with the forks from a 100GS is the best combination. I like what you have done with the bike AW, did you have your rear shock made longer to be the same 36 cm length of the G/S?

I would advise you to keep a close eye on the gearbox doing all the things you have suggested but to strip it might be premature. The sign of imminent death of the tranny is plenty small shiny metal slivers, almost like tiny fish scales. These are normally coming from the bearings and suggest the output shaft, engine side bearing is on its way out. Having the model with cir-clip fitted is not a guarantee that this won't happen. If you get to fix your box in the future you have to insist that the original BMW part be installed in this location. It is slightly different from it's generic counterpart in a way that make it fit against the cir-clip more secure. This does mean that it must be fitted the right way round.



Even though the clip is covering most of the inner edge of the inner race it is still clearly visible that the radius is very small on the left bearing. The right hand side one is a standard generic bearing and the radius is much larger. This small radius on the BMW supplied bearing fits very secure to the cir-clip and you will find it only on one side of the bearing so the mechanic must be sober when installing this because if the bearing is accidently reversed it will loose all it's intended benefit. The balls is also much bigger and can withstand bigger loads than a standard bearing.
To be clear the left bearing is the one supplied by BMW, and yes it is made by a Japanese manufacturer and was only introduced in 1995 so the only models made by the factory ever fitted with these is the R80GS Basic and Kalahari.

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Old 05-20-2009, 01:40 PM   #163
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
did you have your rear shock made longer to be the same 36 cm length of the G/S?
Yep, I bent the stock shock a while ago and replaced it with the long G/S length shock from YSS. Ain't no Ohlins, but it isn't bad either. Definitely worlds better than the stocker, but that doesn't say much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
I would advise you to keep a close eye on the gearbox doing all the things you have suggested but to strip it might be premature.
That's the plan. I've definitely seen those fishscales before on a friend's tranny. He shipped it off to get rebuilt and when he got it back all the old bearings got shipped back in a ziplock bag. I pulled them out to feel how worn they were (REALLY worn) and when I put them back my hands were COVERED in those little flakes. Like glitter almost. I'm planning on changing my gear oil every 2000 miles or so and then take stock of the situation sometime around the middle of august. That's when I need to either ship it off and have it rebuilt or make the decision to go with what I have.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:38 PM   #164
Dustdevill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler
Anyway, after reading both Anton's description and the one on gunsmoke, I'm questioning which route to pursue here. By installing it in the right leg you are adding more compression damping - adding it to the right leg where it didn't exist previously and leaving the stock compression damping in the left leg. This doesn't seem like it will reduce the harshness of fast bumps as the cartridge is meant to do as you're leaving your stock compression damping (the problem) alone and adding more compression damping to it (making it more harsh). It seems to me that the cartridge is designed to entirely replace the stock compression damping, so it would make the most sense to disable the stock compression damping in the left leg and install the racetech emulator in this leg to replace the stock compression damping entirely. Yet it seems that everyone who installs one of these installs it in the right leg. Anyone want to clear it up for me?
I must agree that this is all getting very confusing especially when reading through Scotts instruction and after drilling a bunch of holes and cutting the end cap back to expose the holes that were now covered and then to get to the end to find a note saying oops I was wrong, infact the RIGHT leg is REBOUND and left leg compression "dampening". Funny how he got me to change my mind about this even though I knew which was which. Anyhow it will be good if you (Scott) can add your footnotes about your mistakes at the top in bold red lettering so others can read that part first.

1st point - the Gold valve is designed to work as a pair and one on its own will only do half the job. No wonder people use such heavy oil.
2nd point - the compression "dampening" on the right leg will interfere with the Gold Valves operation.
3rd point - The reason for the installation of the Gold Valve on the right is because the left "dampening" rod does not have holes in for the oil to flow trough the rod to supply the GV, but the top of this damping rod has a protruding flange making it impossible to fit the GV with the standard ring supplied. A ring will have to be specially designed but even then I would doubt if the oil flow will be sufficient because the diameter of the core of this damper is smaller than the right hand side.

My conclusion is that the best way to fit this is to buy a set of Gold Valves as well as one extra damping rod from BMW with the plastic spacer ring. No extra holes should be needed as these damping rods have massive holes that will not restrict the flow of oil. Remember these rods are only meant to deal with rebound and not compression so the holes were made big to allow unrestricted flow.
In this way you will have compression "dampening" in both legs and rebound "dampening" only in the right side leg.

I wish some people will be more concerned with making sure their notes is not misleading rather than with the correct use of the terms "damping" and "dampening".

I am fitting ONE Gold Valve to the left fork together with an extra rebound damping rod to a clients bike and I will post the results here and elsewhere.
Again my client went through painful trouble to share a Gold Valve Kit with someone on this forum because of misinformation shared here and elsewhere on the free and wide web where anyone my say what they want with no danger of retribution if they've got it wrong. Thanks Scott for the useful info shared.
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Old 05-21-2009, 09:04 AM   #165
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
I am fitting ONE Gold Valve to the left fork together with an extra rebound damping rod to a clients bike and I will post the results here and elsewhere.
So will the Gold valve be providing all of the compression damping in your setup? It seems to me that the gold valve was not designed to provide any compression damping, but rather act as a bypass valve for fork oil to bypass the stock compression damping in order to allow faster fork movements on sharper bumps. It may work in this usage, but I don't think it was designed to provide any compression damping on its own. I'm interested to see how this turns out.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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