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Old 05-24-2009, 07:57 AM   #181
StephenB
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Have a look here, that explains how to get your 4-lug GS wheel to fit a monolever final drive: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235926

My complete paralever -> monolever conversion here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=467221
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

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Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

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Old 05-24-2009, 08:08 AM   #182
StephenB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
I have used the 37/11 final drive straight of the R80G/S on my HPN fitted with the brutal Mahle 1043cc conversion in combination with a taller 5th and shorter 1st. Max speed is 180km/h although I have only done 170km/h. Max speed is not the issue here though, When you fit tall suspension with huge static sag it is not a good idea to go flying around at high speeds on the highway.
But boy... when you open her up in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and even in 4th the response is devilish and I would easily compare the power at the back to that of the HP2 producing almost 25 more horses than the Mahle motor.
Your's must be pulling like hell with the 1043 kit. Nice.

I have run the 37/11 on my 1000cc hicomp dual-plugged engine and already that moves the bike forward in 1st and 2nd. I will try a 32/10 this year as I will be riding more street than gravel this season and see how that goes. Still got the 33/11 to try after that which in combination with my long 5th should be great with rpm just below 4000 when crusing at around 70-75mph. That is probably going the be the "Alaska" version of my bike in 2011.
I have weight relieved it as best as possible to still be comfy on long distance rides and the bike having no unnecessary optical improvement, just a speedster windscreen for my 6"3' chassis should easily weigh in under 430lbs wet. I wish I had some big scales somewhere local with a 5lbs resolution at around 400lbs.

Anyway, this is your story, don't want to hijack your thread.
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

www.stephenbottcher.net
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Old 05-24-2009, 08:15 AM   #183
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I bet you could weigh one wheel at a time on a home bathroom scale, Stephen. Just get opposite wheel up to the same height with a 2x4 or something when weighing it.

This is all really great stuff. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:01 AM   #184
Renner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenB
I have weight relieved it as best as possible to still be comfy on long distance rides...
How do you weight-relieve a bike that comes lean out of the box?
Nippon-Denso starter... uh, helium in the tires... um... I'm out of ideas (baring lightening holes and such).
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Old 05-28-2009, 02:50 PM   #185
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Clean my beans

So what is everyone's beancan cleanser of choice? The advance weights pivot on teflon washers, so plenty of the usual suspects shouldn't be used here as they'll cause teflon to swell and your advance weights to stick. SOOOOO, what SHOULD be used to clean as well as lube these PsITA?
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:05 PM   #186
hardwaregrrl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler
So what is everyone's beancan cleanser of choice? The advance weights pivot on teflon washers, so plenty of the usual suspects shouldn't be used here as they'll cause teflon to swell and your advance weights to stick. SOOOOO, what SHOULD be used to clean as well as lube these PsITA?
everyone I've ever talked to about this has said to just spray with electrical contact cleaner and then compressed air to clean the gunk and a dab of grease. honda moly60 or that crazy expensive stuff, Dupont's Krytox. worked for me.
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:46 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner
How do you weight-relieve a bike that comes lean out of the box?
Nippon-Denso starter... uh, helium in the tires... um... I'm out of ideas (baring lightening holes and such).
If you're talking about an ST...
Which when it came from the factory was one of the lightest 800cc class bikes. But still.
There's still a fair amount of weight that can be trimmed off of it.
Get rid of; stock rack, license plate bracket, front turnsignal/headlight bracket and H/L, center stand, head guards & sidestand, stock big speedo and tach, stock handle bar, stock battery, stock turn signals. stock foot pegs and three stripe valve covers.
Replace these parts with nothing or a much smaller and lighter version of them.

Then it's crazy time.
Different subframe, solo seat, new exhaust, no airbox,
New rims, lighter brake rotor. different forks. light weight fuel tank.

I bet with some money and time you could shave more then 50 pounds off of an ST
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:54 AM   #188
Airhead Wrangler OP
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OK, after a short hiatus involving weekend trips, beating the snot out of my DR in the dunes, the sale of my beloved duc , discovering Solo Lobo's true identity (Phil Collins), and various other diversions, I'm finally back on to the beemer with renewed determination (and funding).

I have all the parts on order to convert the ST to points ignition: those include the points can, a dyna green coil, a dyna booster (thanks Wirespokes ), and a brand new set of plug wires and points/condensor.

Despite searching all of Datchew's threads from the last year or so, I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram showing exactly how this mess hooks up. Basically, I'm assuming that the stock switched hot off the ignition switch still supplies power to the coil, and the black wire leads to the points can and from there to ground (not including booster, not sure how that fits into the equation). Anybody have a wiring diagram that they've modified to show their points-in-can setup? Ideally, I don't want to modify my wiring harness at all. I'd like to be able to put the thing back to stock easily. If that means running new wiring then so be it.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:28 AM   #189
StephenB
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You should be able to hook it up: a (black) cable comes from the points-in-beancan and feeds the Dyna booster. I am not sure whether the condenser is used in conjunction with a booster, the booster manual should say. The Dyna booster then feeds the coil directly via another cable. The stock BMW booster is OUT of the equation with this setup.

You have to run one (1) wire from the beancan to the booster and one from the booster to the Dynacoil. If it is the green dual-tower dyna coil, it has no polarity: one input gets 12V from green/blue cable (that previously connected to the stock coil) and the other to the black coming from the booster. The booster should need 12V too: run an extension from the green/blue cable to power the booster. You will need chassis ground from somewhere connected to the booster. The kill switch kills power to the green/blue, so you're all set there: kill switch kills power to coil and booster.

Hope that helps.
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Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me]

... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake]

Stephen Bottcher
Ontario, Canada

'72 R75/5 The Blues

www.stephenbottcher.net
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:45 AM   #190
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Thanks StephenB. After scouring dyna's website I found their install instructions for the booster. That cleared it all up. It looks like the condensor stays in the circuit with the booster.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:27 AM   #191
Airhead Wrangler OP
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I have my points can and 3 ohm coil and am ready to slap it all together this afternoon. One question though. From the dark secrets thread, I found that I need to buy Bosch 01011 points, but have seen mention that they need to be the heavy duty version so as not to float. The "heavy duty" points are a different part number. Anyone care to clarify? Datch?
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:30 PM   #192
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Points pointers

Yesterday afternoon I tore out my stock ignition and installed my new points can along with a 3 ohm dyna coil. Everything fired up and runs like a top. I noticed some of the same things as Datchew, especially that it will idle CRAZY low if I let it. It dropped down to 350 for a couple seconds before I gave it some gas. I'm still experiencing a pronounced shudder right at 2000 rpm which I had with my hall can as well, but not with a friend's aftermarket electronic system that I tested out for a little while. Weird. I had thought it was an imbalance between rods or on the crank, but then an ignition system got rid of it. Pics on the way. Also, Datchew, I bought a spare set of points from the part number you put up in the 'Dark Secrets' thread, but didn't get the "tiger tail" ones for some reason. Mine are made in Brazil, but only have the solid black wire. Did you get Bosch 01011 and get those striped ones with the stiffer spring?

ALSO:
My bike originally came with the crack-prone grey Bosch coil, but sometime before I got the bike it was updated with the black bosch coil. When pulling this coil off the bike for the points can install, I noticed that it was cracked fairly significantly on the front face around where it mounts. SOOOOO, all of you out there who assume you're safe from cracking coils just because your coil is black and not grey, take this as inspiration to give your coil a checkup next time your tank is off. Mine showed no symptoms of malfunction even in REALLY heavy rain, but I'm guessing it was only a matter of time.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 06-18-2009, 02:37 PM   #193
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Bugs in my box

More time has passed and I continue to worry about my transmission.

Snowbum says:

"Summing up: ....theoretically it is possible for a transmission built from 1984, up until transmission serial number 240765, to not have the circlip (and the shaft has or has not a groove for that circlip). "

1984: Z-084339 -> Z-104600

My transmission is number Z-094668, smack dab in the middle of the '84 run yet my bike was built in September '83 ('84 model year though). My box seems to produce a fair amount of fuzz between oil changes as well as the occasional tiny splinter (yikes!). It has ~17k miles on it now and sat for a couple of decades. How worried should I be? I'd prefer not to throw real money at fake problems, but if this is something that I SHOULD deal with NOW, I'll do it. What would the consesus be on a "normal" amount of metal fuzz on the drain plug? Should the little magnet still be visible or is a larger mound of metal goo acceptable?
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.

Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 06-18-2009 at 03:27 PM
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:45 PM   #194
SOLO LOBO
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The good news is the there is a local trans "guru" who is no longer working at dealers, but works from his home... cash only...

2Trac just had this guy rebuild his trans....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:56 PM   #195
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Quote:
What would the consesus be on a "normal" amount of metal fuzz on the drain plug? Should the little magnet still be visible or is a larger mound of metal goo acceptable?
The 'Bum says:

A modest amount of FUZZ, soft-feeling, is fine. ANY feelable sharp particles are cause for further inspection. NOTE that fairly large amounts of FUZZ, soft-feeling, after maybe only a few thousand miles since an oil change (and fuzz removal), CAN indicate that the transmission is failing....and for the circlip-less versions, indicate that the 5th gear bearing is deteriorating, and the transmission really should be overhauled and the circlip installed.

He also has a test here that should either give you warm fuzzies or a sinking feeling in your stomach.
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