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Old 06-25-2009, 10:15 AM   #211
Gimmeslack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler
Your replacing two pieces of sensitive electronics, your hall sensor and ICU, with something as simple as a rock which can be repaired anywhere blindfolded with one hand tied behind your back with a gun held to your head (possibly underwater as well). Use a points amplifier and they'll need adjustment much less often as the points won't really wear, just the rubbing block. The points amplifier can be disconnected by changing ONE wire, so it isn't really a liability. Replacement points cost $7 at my local VW parts shop.

The 'bum says:
"Points have one big advantage: They are exceptionally simple, and can almost always be 'fixed' by the side of the road. They also can be fitted with a simply booster, or points amplifier, which GREATLY reduces the current through the points, and hence they can have a very much longer life......and maintenance is also reduced....keep that cam slightly greased, felt too if you have one (points canisters do not)....and check timing and gap now and then (5000 mile intervals, such as when valve clearances are checked, seems right)."
Got it. Thanks for taking time to 205' it...
Now, if I may ask: is ICU/Hall failure common? I know Bgood just had issues, but hey, his is not exactly a stock bike

Even it was uncommon, I understand the desire to keep airheads as stone-age as they were intended. I just have miserable memories of dealing with points on my old Peugeot
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:20 AM   #212
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmeslack
Got it. Thanks for taking time to 205' it...
Now, if I may ask: is ICU/Hall failure common? I know Bgood just had issues, but hey, his is not exactly a stock bike
Jimbee's hall can went south too. Hell, it seems like half the people on this board have had one fail in the last 8 months from all the threads on it. Who knows how common it ACTUALLY is though. It's just one less thing I know I can't fix on the side of the road.
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Old 06-25-2009, 10:41 AM   #213
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmeslack
Got it. Thanks for taking time to 205' it...
Now, if I may ask: is ICU/Hall failure common? I know Bgood just had issues, but hey, his is not exactly a stock bike

It's important to remember that just because the subject pops up here alot, that doesn't mean the whole fleet of 80's and 90's hall sensors are about to die at any minute.

This is a bit like the valeo starter thing. There are some problems (after 15 years!) but they're varied and sporadic.

I don't think the hall sensors are all time bombs. I just don't want to go through it again because without swapping out a beancan, it's really quite difficult to diagnose. And yes, points are just easier to fix. I like them and never had trouble with them on old VW's. can't speak for peugots or others.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:22 PM   #214
Racegun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler
Your replacing two pieces of sensitive electronics, your hall sensor and ICU, with something as simple as a rock which can be repaired anywhere blindfolded with one hand tied behind your back with a gun held to your head (possibly underwater as well). Use a points amplifier and they'll need adjustment much less often as the points won't really wear, just the rubbing block. The points amplifier can be disconnected by changing ONE wire, so it isn't really a liability. Replacement points cost $7 at my local VW parts shop.

The 'bum says:
"Points have one big advantage: They are exceptionally simple, and can almost always be 'fixed' by the side of the road. They also can be fitted with a simply booster, or points amplifier, which GREATLY reduces the current through the points, and hence they can have a very much longer life......and maintenance is also reduced....keep that cam slightly greased, felt too if you have one (points canisters do not)....and check timing and gap now and then (5000 mile intervals, such as when valve clearances are checked, seems right)."
could you please post links for the points amplifier & what is the part number for the points. I will go to car quest, or OReilly and get s spare set!

tia!
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:21 AM   #215
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevill
I am fitting ONE Gold Valve to the left fork together with an extra rebound damping rod to a clients bike and I will post the results here and elsewhere.
DD-
Any update on this? Have you had a chance to fit it yet?
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 06-26-2009, 04:28 PM   #216
Stagehand
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I've had an ICU/Hall for over five years and 60 thousand miles on this bike nad EVERYTHING ELSE has been replaced, but the beancan is fine

except for the stupid wires, but I dont think thats a fault of the can, thats just the gods trying to push me over the edge for fun.
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Old 06-26-2009, 06:35 PM   #217
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
I know Bgood just had issues, but hey, his is not exactly a stock bike
ya cause one teencey weencey electrical fire and you never live it down!

I appreciate you holding that bean can for me, Dat. Ill be on the road for another month and a half or so and then the bidding war can begin.

I spend hours trapped in my helmet watching the scenery go by and weighing the pros and cons of points. Im still up in the air about it. Frankly I think points are a little high-tech. Im working on my own system incorporating flint and matches.

More food for thought: roadsacallin had his hall sensor go out in the Middle East last year. I asked Nathan about the points idea and he said he prefers the stock system and keeps a spare can & ICU.

Hola from Nicaragua!
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Old 06-27-2009, 06:25 PM   #218
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil

I appreciate you holding that bean can for me, Dat. Ill be on the road for another month and a half or so and then the bidding war can begin.
If you don't need them and Solo doesn't wanna buy them, then they're staying with me for a long term backup (another GS someday?) and for helping stranded/troubled riders.
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Old 06-27-2009, 07:12 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
If you don't need them and Solo doesn't wanna buy them, then they're staying with me for a long term backup (another GS someday?) and for helping stranded/troubled riders.
Brad's gonna be broke when he gets back...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:33 PM   #220
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
Brad's gonna be broke when he gets back...
his wallet or his bike?
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:41 PM   #221
bgoodsoil
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ha!
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:43 PM   #222
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So my tranny is out for a rebuild and with the swingarm off I thought I'd give the driveshaft a quick check. One U was nice and smooth all the way from one side to the other. The other u-joint has pronounced notchiness. The notchy one has about 15 degrees of smooth rotation centered on a straight joint. Move it more than 7.5 degrees to either side and there is a pretty solid notch. There is not discernible play in the joint though I'm guessing it's pretty tough to feel without removing the driveshaft from the swingarm. Anybody got any advice? How concerned should I be?

It's a monolever - what could possibly go wrong with it?
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:12 PM   #223
stickerbush
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Here are some replies I got from reputable airhead mechanics on the airheads-tech list when I asked the same question about my G/S driveshaft. Not giving names because I haven't asked their permission to repost their replies.

Quote:
These driveshaft u-joints were typically tight when new which is what you feel when you move the joint to the extremes of travel, you feel the original tightness. The joint will "wear in" in the area of normal travel but will still feel stiff in the area where it does not normally travel. This gives it a notchy feel. This is common and typical. If there is no play in the joint, there is nothing wrong with it.
Quote:
The driveshaft notch is quite common, and they do not fail. The GS paralever driveshafts DO fail, but that is a very different animal.
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:45 PM   #224
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickerbush
Here are some replies I got from reputable airhead mechanics on the airheads-tech list when I asked the same question about my G/S driveshaft. Not giving names because I haven't asked their permission to repost their replies.

Quote:
These driveshaft u-joints were typically tight when new which is what you feel when you move the joint to the extremes of travel, you feel the original tightness. The joint will "wear in" in the area of normal travel but will still feel stiff in the area where it does not normally travel. This gives it a notchy feel. This is common and typical. If there is no play in the joint, there is nothing wrong with it.
Quote:
The driveshaft notch is quite common, and they do not fail. The GS paralever driveshafts DO fail, but that is a very different animal.
Hmmm. That makes me feel a lot better, but why is only one of the joints notchy while the other is nice and smooth? One just started out tight and the other not? Either way though, I feel a LOT better.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.

Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 07-23-2009 at 03:53 PM
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:35 PM   #225
SOLO LOBO
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I had exactly the same feeling on mine... and had HPNGuy do his magic...

You might ask Norm his opinion...

How much for the trans rebuild and what's toast?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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