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Old 07-30-2009, 08:52 AM   #256
SOLO LOBO
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I use Stephen's technique (after having TWO of JT's torque wrench adapter's break when using the specified torque and a new wrench) but I use blue loc-tite......

I have had one bolt come loose...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:12 AM   #257
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
I have had one bolt come loose...
Even with the loctite, huh? It felt like my bolts were definitely assembled dry and tightly enough that none of the gear oil in the swingarm penetrated the threads. When loosening them all 4 of them let out repeated "CRACK!"s for a full rotation
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:13 AM   #258
bgoodsoil
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why wouldn't you use blue loctite? What's the downside?
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:41 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler
Even with the loctite, huh?
No blue on the one that got loose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:45 AM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
why wouldn't you use blue loctite? What's the downside?
+1
I'd like to know that too. First the dealership, now stephenB say no loctite. What gives?
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:03 AM   #261
StephenB
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In my case: never crossed my mind. I am sure the manual doesn't mention it either. But that I don't know for sure.

Understanding glues like locktite: if the thread is not completely (!) oil free, the locktite can not adhere to the surface (on a molecular level). So it doesn't harden (due to contamination with oil) or if it does, it hardens between two oil films. I can imagine the oil working as a film on both sides (bolt and thread) of the locktite is ALLOWING the bolt to "slip" (rotate) on the hardened locktite and therefore loosen up easier.

Whereas without locktite, metal sits on metal with remnants of oil providing a better locking surface (based on surface roughness) as there is no "lubricant"(=locktite) inbetween.

Am I making sense here?

If both surfaces were completely dry, blue locktite would do the trick ... I still would assemble it dry.
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StephenB screwed with this post 07-30-2009 at 11:17 AM
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:20 AM   #262
Wirespokes
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I've always used a long 10mm wrench and put everything I had into it till my hand hurt. Didn't use a hammer, dead blow, or anything like that. Haven't had any come loose yet.

That's a good point about the blue loctite. So the point would be to make sure the threads are very clean.

I made a copy of the BMW tool for the job, but it broke. Evidently I didn't heat treat it properly.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:43 AM   #263
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I'm just planning on blasting all threads, both male and female with contact cleaner to get rid of any oil. The oil's what allowed me to overtorque and strip that bolt yesterday I think.
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:09 PM   #264
bgoodsoil
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from JTWind's site:

I've recently discovered that a number of our Airhead
gurus are not using the factory speced 29 ft. lbs for the
driveshaft bolts. They suggest 20-22 ft lbs and blue loctite.
I'm doing the same.

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Old 07-30-2009, 11:14 PM   #265
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TRAIN WRECK


I put the transmission back in last night and it is a complete FAILURE of a rebuild. The howl coming from the transmission is about as loud as the engine. The guy who rebuilt it replaced the input gear and according to the maxbmw fiche he used the right part number, but a friend in the know told me that although BMW changed the pitch on the gears in the early 80's, some later transmissions were assembled using older parts with a different tooth pitch. He said it's obvious when the gear pitches are mixed by accident as it causes a horrendous HOWL... much like what I have. Some one turn on the Anton bat signal please.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:59 PM   #266
jellycow
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Really stupid question: is there oil in that gearbox?
I'd think that with two tooth pitches you'd not be able to rotate the in/output at all because of interference. Or is the difference between those two pitches so minimal?
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:04 AM   #267
bgoodsoil
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damn! man I really feel for you. I had to pull my gearbox for the umpteenth time the day I was supposed to leave on my trip and it's still slipping out of first. I was taking hills in Costa Rica lugging 2nd because first kept popping out. I went to Boxerworks and thought I'd have no problems but that wasn't the case. Those gearboxes must be complicated.

Try not to cuss at the guy when you call him. That's kinda like being a jerk to the people at the drive-thru. Cuss AFTER you get your stuff

how much time before your trip?
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:31 AM   #268
stickerbush
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Pisser about your tranny Wrangler.

Quote:
Still, he said if he was going to ride into the bush he said he'd use points too.
Trying to understand this... Is this because a spare points and condenser takes up less space and is lighter than a spare bean can? Or cheaper? i think I'd be inclined to go with the stock ignition.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:33 AM   #269
Stagehand
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crap!
sympathy flows forth.
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:41 AM   #270
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickerbush
Is this because a spare points and condenser takes up less space and is lighter than a spare bean can? Or cheaper? i think I'd be inclined to go with the stock ignition.
A spare set of points and condensor are about the size of a roll of film (remember that stuff?), cost about $8 each, and are readily available pretty much everywhere in the world (the points are used in VW bugs). It also removes your ICU, another potential failure point, from the equation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stickerbush
Pisser about your tranny Wrangler.
Yeah, the real pisser is that I only told him to replace the bearings and seals and clear anything else he might find with me before proceeding. He thought the input gear and cush drive were a "little bit" worn so he elected to replace them without clearing it with me first (at $250 added expense). For $250 more to replace 2 parts that are a "little bit" worn I wouldn't have done it. Now it turns out that one of those parts is devouring my transmission. Great.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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