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Old 01-07-2010, 12:56 PM   #151
jdubb75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbbutt

XRider,
As you appear to be the authority on the BRP wiring here is what I have.

Im running a modded BD DS kit, 2- 55w hella offroad lights, battery, gps, turn sigs, horn ,bla bla bla.

I want to run a split ac/dc system with 1 55w light on all the time connected to a ac reg.

all the other stuff on a dc reg/rec.
I have a electrosport 200w stator, out of the stator the following wires:
pink
white
white
green
black/red
blue/white
white/green
brown
On my last rendition of my wiring job I blew both headlight bulbs( bulbs are cheap, the gps isnt! ) I dont seem to be able to find any schematic that matches the wiring colors andd does the job I am looking for....
Thoughts?
Thanks
Here is a link to a tech article from Baja Designs. I think it does what you are looking for and you can buy the pre-wired relay from them for about $25. PN - 12-9010

http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20We...port%20Kit.pdf


Here is the instructions/schematic for the Electrosport stator. You will have to cross reference which wires corresspond to one another.

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...structions.pdf
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:12 PM   #152
numbbutt
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still trying to fugure this out

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdubb75
Here is a link to a tech article from Baja Designs. I think it does what you are looking for and you can buy the pre-wired relay from them for about $25. PN - 12-9010

http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20We...port%20Kit.pdf


Here is the instructions/schematic for the Electrosport stator. You will have to cross reference which wires corresspond to one another.

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...structions.pdf
The issue I cannot figure out is if I can split the two leads from the electrosport stator, 1- for the dc system up front and 1- to power a always on 55w light on ac with a regulator. If I can, how do I come up with the neg. sides of both systems? the Stator has had a green and a pink wire both capped and unused in the current configuration
Trying to button this up as I leave in 2 weeks for death valley... any additional thoughts??? anyone???
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:49 PM   #153
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbbutt
The issue I cannot figure out is if I can split the two leads from the electrosport stator, 1- for the dc system up front and 1- to power a always on 55w light on ac with a regulator. If I can, how do I come up with the neg. sides of both systems? the Stator has had a green and a pink wire both capped and unused in the current configuration
Trying to button this up as I leave in 2 weeks for death valley... any additional thoughts??? anyone???

The trouble with the electro sport stator is that it's not very easy to have a dual voltage (AC & DC) system. The only way that I know of to do it goes like this:

The Esport stator has 3 lighting coils, two 100w, and one 50w. The 50w coil is the only one that is isolated from the other two and that's the one that you will connect to the regulator/rectifier and the battery. So the pink and the yellow wires on the stator connect to the yellow wires on the reg/rect. Now comes the nightmare part. Since 50w DC isn't squat you really can't run any lights with it and if it's going to work at all you have to float the DC ground. So you can power a gps and charge a cell phone but that's about it. And the circuit has to be isolated and insolated from the frame. For lights you take one of the white wires and connect it to one of the wires from the AC regulator, it doesn't mater which one. Connect the other wire from the AC reg to the frame (ground). Connect your light to the white wire/reg wire pair. The other side of the bulb goes to the frame. Of course you should have a fuse and a switch in there too, connect them before the regulator. You'll need 2 circuits like this, one for each of the white wires with 1 light for each circuit. This is why I don't like esport stators.
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:33 AM   #154
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"The Esport stator has 3 lighting coils, two 100w, and one 50w. The 50w coil is the only one that is isolated from the other two and that's the one that you will connect to the regulator/rectifier and the battery. So the pink and the yellow wires on the stator connect to the yellow wires on the reg/rect. Now comes the nightmare part. Since 50w DC isn't squat you really can't run any lights with it and if it's going to work at all you have to float the DC ground. So you can power a gps and charge a cell phone but that's about it. And the circuit has to be isolated and insolated from the frame. For lights you take one of the white wires and connect it to one of the wires from the AC regulator, it doesn't mater which one. Connect the other wire from the AC reg to the frame (ground). Connect your light to the white wire/reg wire pair. The other side of the bulb goes to the frame. Of course you should have a fuse and a switch in there too, connect them before the regulator. You'll need 2 circuits like this, one for each of the white wires with 1 light for each circuit. This is why I don't like esport stators."

OK,
So if I stay with the electrosport should I just get a higher rated reg/rec than my BD unit and make the entire system dc??. I could install the reg/rec under the seat and run a new circuit lead forward to power everything up front. As my electrosport unit it a 200w, it has plenty of power, who has a good 250w reg/rec?
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:03 PM   #155
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Ricky stator makes a heavy duty reg/rect but you can't connect the Esport stator for single output. In fact I don't think you can run the 100w coils to a reg/rect anyway. You can only get DC from the 50w coil. It's the only one that is isolated. As far as I know the way I described it in the last post is the only way to get both AC and DC power from the Esport. That's why I never use them, they're not very flexable.
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:55 PM   #156
Ironwood
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RM Stator

So I just installed my 200 watt stator and was wondering what the best way to pull off 3 runs to power grips, a vest and a gps. It is a Baja Designs kit and I have it all running into the BDK harness and through the BDK rectifier. BD tech said it was fine to do that and their rectifier could handle the power.

I tried to run just one 100 watt output to the BDK but after I put the 55/65 H-4 bulb I noticed dimming with the turn signals. It could have been because my battery was completely dead at startup and was sucking a lot of the current. So I put both outputs together and it stopped the dimming.

I first wanted to run the second output to a dc regulator and then to a fuse block under the seat for my additional loads. And I may still do that if my lights work better after I charge the battery. I just didn't see a clean way of pulling the extra watts off of the BD kit.

Any suggestions from the Gurus of Electricity.

Joe
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:53 PM   #157
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The best place to pull power from is at the battery. Be sure to install a fuse and a switch so the grips and vest don't kill the battery when the bike isn't running.
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:58 AM   #158
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look into a fuzeblocks.com FZ-1 or Farkleshop.com units, I've got a Farkleshop one right noe, going to try an FZ-1 unit next. With the FZ-1 you can connect straight to the battery and activate a relay off the switch to turn on and off all power.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:02 PM   #159
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I don't know if this will help, this is the wiring from an Australian model XR650R which has AC/DC ciruit.
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:10 AM   #160
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Wow lots of great info here!

Just wanted to run this by you guys, I have an XR650R with Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit and Baja Designs dual wound stator. On the AC side all I have is a 55/60W headlight. On the DC side I have the horn, blinkers, stock tailight, and BD LED tailight/brakelight.

I'm planning to put Symtec grip warmers on the AC side, and a Gerbing's jacket on the DC side. The grips use a hi/lo/off switch and can run on AC. The jacket has a pulse width modulator type heat controller so it has to be on DC.

AC = 55/60W headlight + 36W max grip warmers = 96W max. That should be OK, other than maybe having reduced power at low RPMs right? At low RPM I'll be on low beam and low setting on grips, they are the Symtec grips, no resistor = less power used on low.

DC = should be OK as it is 77W max, and I very rarely turn it up past halfway, and with the controller less heat = less power.

Sound good?

Peter
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Old 01-26-2010, 04:23 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
The best place to pull power from is at the battery. Be sure to install a fuse and a switch so the grips and vest don't kill the battery when the bike isn't running.

I'm glad you brought this point up. Is this true for everything (not just grips, vest, but lights, gps, horn, turn signals, everything)?

Is it a good idea to run a big battery (I'm thinking an XR650L battery)?

Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:50 PM   #162
Ironwood
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Ac/dc

From what reading I have done it is better to run headlights off of AC circuits. It is more efficient.

Joe
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:36 PM   #163
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Yes, AC is more efficient, thats why larger aircraft run it, it keeps the weight down. No need to run a big battery, if you keep the revs up a little bit. Here is mine, I made it out of Sub-c cells


It works great and keeps the Acewell computer and fan running when I'm idleing.

As for switched power, you can buy a 4 or 5 pin relay for driving lights at any autoparts store. They are commonly rated for 40amps and work great.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:47 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwood
From what reading I have done it is better to run headlights off of AC circuits. It is more efficient.

Joe
It is, because you don't lose power in the rectifier/regulator conversion (am I right)? But my HID will not run on AC. My Halogen will (I have a Tecate), but that 30 watts is not enough to justify not going to a full DC system on mine. I run heated gloves, jacket liner, GPS, HID that need DC. Horn, blinkers, tail light (LEDs) are negligible. 200 watts into a rectifier, is probably 170 DC at good revs, leaving 70 for lights, 90 for heated clothes, with 10 to spare. Due to the lead acid battery, things will stay working properly at low revs (unless I do that all day). But I'll be able to turn of the HID and Halogen independently and it won't be often I use both lights, liner, and gloves. I hope this works well. I really recommend a volt or amp meter, Datel makes a great tiny volt meter.

Jim
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:59 AM   #165
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I'm setting up my XR with a simple DC system, just so I can use my GPS.

Stock stator
DC reg/rect
Capacitor

What, if anything will I have to do to keep the capacitor from draining my GPS's internal battery?

TIA
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