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Old 01-27-2010, 08:59 AM   #166
river251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattc
I'm setting up my XR with a simple DC system, just so I can use my GPS.

Stock stator
DC reg/rect
Capacitor

What, if anything will I have to do to keep the capacitor from draining my GPS's internal battery?

TIA

I am no expert, but a diode is like a one-way gate, so one put in the appropriate place might do it.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:47 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by river251
I am no expert, but a diode is like a one-way gate, so one put in the appropriate place might do it.

That makes sense.


I wonder if it is actually necessary?
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Old 01-27-2010, 07:40 PM   #168
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handlebar headlight switch...

So this is sort of a hijack of the thread but..... who makes those cool billet aluminum push button switches????
I want to control my ac lights and my dc turn signals so this switch makes sense... I just don't remember who makes or sells them.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:42 PM   #169
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http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/

There ya go. Nice but pricey. I'm poor.
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:20 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattc
I'm setting up my XR with a simple DC system, just so I can use my GPS.

Stock stator
DC reg/rect
Capacitor

What, if anything will I have to do to keep the capacitor from draining my GPS's internal battery?

TIA
The capacitor, depending on the size, will most likely hold a charge longer than the battery in your gps. This is good because most electronic devices will not switch from external power to internal (battery) power unless you pull the external power jack out. You also don't want to leave the jack in and have the external power run completely dry. If you do for more than a few minutes then the gps will start losing everything you programed into it and what ever track it was recording. Some gps units will last longer than others but given enough time without power and they will all lose their minds. I would recomend a small lead acid (gel cell) battery instead of a cap and connect the gps power to it. The battery will also act as a power conditioner for the gps so it won't experiance any dips or spikes in voltage. The reg/rect will do a reasonable job with power spikes but will do nothing about dips.

One last thing, most gps' already have reverse charging protection circuits. So if your gps has the ability to charge it's internal batterys and for some reason the external power quits, it won't use the internal battery to try and energize the external power source. So no need for in-line diods.
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Old 01-28-2010, 08:10 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
The capacitor, depending on the size, will most likely hold a charge longer than the battery in your gps. This is good because most electronic devices will not switch from external power to internal (battery) power unless you pull the external power jack out. You also don't want to leave the jack in and have the external power run completely dry. If you do for more than a few minutes then the gps will start losing everything you programed into it and what ever track it was recording. Some gps units will last longer than others but given enough time without power and they will all lose their minds. I would recomend a small lead acid (gel cell) battery instead of a cap and connect the gps power to it. The battery will also act as a power conditioner for the gps so it won't experiance any dips or spikes in voltage. The reg/rect will do a reasonable job with power spikes but will do nothing about dips.

One last thing, most gps' already have reverse charging protection circuits. So if your gps has the ability to charge it's internal batterys and for some reason the external power quits, it won't use the internal battery to try and energize the external power source. So no need for in-line diods.
Thanks XRider, for the response. It helps a lot! Just a couple of questions still...


The GPS in question is a Zumo450. When it loses external power, it asks if it should resume on battery power, or auto shuts down in 30 secs.

What I'm curious about, is what you said about dips and spikes. I bought the cap under the assumption that it basically acts like a battery and smooths power- just does not hold power after it stops receiveing power from the source (stator). Is that wrong?
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:29 AM   #172
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The biggest differance between a battery and a cap (for this discussion at least) is the rate at which they charge and discharge. Batterys discharge at a very steady rate over and extended period of time and charge at about the same rate. Caps can discharge all their energy almost instantly and recharge just as fast. So when you use one in a charging system to replace a battery it is constantly charging and discharging trying to smooth out the power delivery. It's doing this all very quickly but it does not produce clean power. If you're only powering lights the spikes are so close together your eyes can't react fast enough to see the flicker. However, this is not what you want to use for electronic devices. Also, it's important to match the size of the cap to the load of the electrical system or your voltage will be too high. But a 12v battery is a 12v battery, it doesn't matter what size it is. Anything over 1.2 Ahrs will work fine.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:08 AM   #173
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AC Heated Grips?

First newb posting - this thread has helped a bunch in my journey to dual sport an 05 XRR.

I'm setting up a dual output stator, AC for a BD headlight (55W), DC for everything else (LED signals, GPS, fan, speedo). Also need grip heaters and a vest so there is some potential to overload the DC circuit. I'm considering connecting the grips or vest to the AC side. Will your common grip heaters work OK wired to an AC source? What about a vest?
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Old 01-30-2010, 09:36 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiskowd
First newb posting - this thread has helped a bunch in my journey to dual sport an 05 XRR.

I'm setting up a dual output stator, AC for a BD headlight (55W), DC for everything else (LED signals, GPS, fan, speedo). Also need grip heaters and a vest so there is some potential to overload the DC circuit. I'm considering connecting the grips or vest to the AC side. Will your common grip heaters work OK wired to an AC source? What about a vest?
Yes I just did this myself, originally I had both e-grips and e-vest tapped into a tiny wire on the DC side, and they were not getting full power. I wanted to use my Gerbing's jacket liner instead of the vest and it was gonna be too much.

I moved the grip warmers to the AC side, and wired the jacket into the DC side. (NOTE: the "heatroller" only works properly on DC, so just use a hi/lo/off switch for the grips and you'll be fine.) I tapped into the AC right off the AC regulator, and the DC right off the battery. They both are getting full power now, oh yeah!

With the grips on AC, they only come on when the bike is running, and with the jacket, when I get off the bike the jacket will obviously be disconnected, so no worries about running down the battery.

Peter
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Old 01-30-2010, 03:59 PM   #175
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It should be noted that a 250w (125w x2) stator only puts out 250w at 4500 RPM and above. I try not to make the load more than 110w x2, it makes for better performance all around.
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:02 PM   #176
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Question Lead-acid battery + capacitor in parallel?

I rewired the stator with two putputs feeding an AC and a DC circuit. The AC is for the headlight only. The DC powers HIDs/ halogens/ gps combos.

I have a 1.2Ah LEAD BATTERY AND A CAPACITOR wired in parallel.

At the time I made the conversion it sounded good, reliable and overdone . One time the battery died (it sees high temps and some vibes since it is mounted where the starter would be if honda cared to put one in) and the capacitor kept the system working.


My question is:
Is this theoretically wrong at any level, or just redundant?



Cheers!
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:24 PM   #177
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[quote=EduardoMas]I rewired the stator with two putputs feeding an AC and a DC circuit. The AC is for the headlight only. The DC powers HIDs/ halogens/ gps combos.

I have a 1.2Ah LEAD BATTERY AND A CAPACITOR wired in parallel.

At the time I made the conversion it sounded good, reliable and overdone . One time the battery died (it sees high temps and some vibes since it is mounted where the starter would be if honda cared to put one in) and the capacitor kept the system working.


My question is:
Is this theoretically wrong at any level, or just redundant?




That's a new one, I've never seen this approach before. So long as the cap doesn't have a discharge resistor across it's terminals I suppose it will work. But the battery and the cap will always have the same level of charge so I'm not sure anything is gained. A word of caution though, with the cap and the battery in parallel the cap will always be energized and ready to deliver one hell of a shock (think stun gun) if you touch the terminals.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:10 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
the battery and the cap will always have the same level of charge so I'm not sure anything is gained. .
Just reliability. The capacitor is tougher than the sealed batteries in the vibey oven they are in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
with the cap and the battery in parallel the cap will always be energized and ready to deliver one hell of a shock (think stun gun) if you touch the terminals.
I'll check for this.(here kitty kitty) Now a stun gun has high voltage, but I get a kool even 12 or so volts from the combo with the bike on or off. But I'll check if is there is a possible problem with the setup (it is 4 years old) based on this new info. I rather force a failure in the garage than discover it on the trail.

Cheers!

Eduardo.
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:50 AM   #179
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I don't see anything fundimentaly wrong with your cap/battery system I just think that it will be a rather unique type of failure thatwill allow it to save the day. Since the voltage is equalized across the two, if the battery is dead then so is the cap. On the up side if the battery fails and you disconnect it from the circuit then the cap will re-charge instantly and off you go. Of course that's the way it works if the battery is never installed also. If it's the other way around and the cap fails and discharges the battery, removing the cap from the circuit still leaves you with a dead battery. The system will work fine but in this case I don't think the redundancy makes the system any more robust.

It reminds me of something my flight instructor told me. He said most people think a twin engine plane is safer than a single engine because if one quits you still have one working. The truth is having two motors doubles your chances of having one failure and the second motor is only going to get you to the crash site faster.

About getting shocked by the cap, you're right it's only 13.5 volts but the cap can discharge it's entire current load instantly and that's what will bite you. It's no big deal just be carefull when you're poking around by the cap.
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Old 02-11-2010, 12:49 AM   #180
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Question Help

Hello everyone,

I am looking for some help. I recently bought an XR650R and want to build a reliable DC system to power a GPS and maybe heated grips and blinkers.

I believe the bike at some point was equiped with a better headlight than the one it has, ufo with integated blinkers (not connected at the time) so this makes me believe it has an upgrated stator

The goal:
-Have working turn signals
-A cigarrette outlet
-A horn
-heated grips

Current set up:
-Stator has 6 wires coming out
-Blue/yellowstripe--->becomes--->Blue/yellowstripe--->to--->don't know
-Green/whitestripe-->Solid Green--->don't know
-White/yellowstripe--->yellow--->baja designs regulator
-Green--->yellow--->baja designs regulator
-Brown--->brown--->Black box
-Black/redstripe--->black/redstripe--->ignition coil?

From regulator out
-Red--->Capacitor
-Black--->Same Capacitor (2000 uF)

At this point I am trying to figure out what type of stator is on the bike
I would like to put a small battery (Everstart about 2x3x3) that I saw in Wallmart that looked like it would fit perfectly behind headlight or beside carb like electric start battery configuration.

Anyways I am seeking some help to make this project possible. I have a digital multimeter, and was planning on turning bike on and taking some numbers on amperage at idle. I dont know if this would be any help.

I hope you all can shead some light on this project and guide me on where to start

Thank you all

Best,

-MH
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