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Old 02-11-2010, 08:04 AM   #181
Ironwood
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Stator Output

You just need to pull the left cover, the flywheel cover that is, and see how many of the radial posts are wound with coils. I think the stock has 3 or 4 unused posts and all of them can be used to generate more current.

The stock U.S. stator puts out about 70 watts and the rewound or after-market units put out 200 to 250 into either 1 or 2 circuits. You need to put the current into a heavy duty rectifier if you want DC for electronics and batteries.

It is an easy inspection. There is no oil behind the cover. Possibly a bit of seepage but mine was dry.

Joe
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:41 AM   #182
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You have a stock stator with the sorry output of 45 watts. You can install a larger battery (1.2Ah to 2.0Ah) just connect it in place of the cap. However if you want to run a bigger headlight or anything else you'd better get a big stator. I like the B.D. 250w rewind but the 200w Ricky is very good also. Don't bother with the Electrosport. You've come to the right place, this thread has all the information you need to set yourself up with a proper system.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:50 PM   #183
34for40dave
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Bad Battery

First off, I want to thank XRider for talking me off the ledge.

For the past 8 weeks I have been searching for an electrical problem on my XR650R with rewound BD stator and wiring harness.

I originally thought I had a floating AC ground issue and literally remade the harness from scratch. It was an excellent learning experience and now I have a wiring harness that I both understand I believe to be bullet proof.

The problem ended up being a faulty battery. Not just a dead battery. A faulty battery that could not hold a charge above 6 volts. Here is a picture of from when I began to realize the problem.




Anyway, when the regulator rectifier tried to charge the battery it caused the entire system to run at 6 volts instead of 12+. Working this all out was really mind boggling. Because my electrical system worked great (12v) at idle to 2,500 RPM at which point it would reduce to 6 volts at 3,000 RPM and above. Go figure?!

What made all things worse, is my AC powered lights are controlled by a DC relay. So the AC system which is separate was affected because the DC relay would only get 6 volts at top power instead of 12 volts causing the lights to dim and then shut off.

Just telling you all this so no one else has to relive the experience.

dave

New battery, all problems solved.
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:35 PM   #184
Oddfellow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 34for40dave
First off, I want to thank XRider for talking me off the ledge.

For the past 8 weeks I have been searching for an electrical problem on my XR650R with rewound BD stator and wiring harness.

I originally thought I had a floating AC ground issue and literally remade the harness from scratch. It was an excellent learning experience and now I have a wiring harness that I both understand I believe to be bullet proof.

The problem ended up being a faulty battery. Not just a dead battery. A faulty battery that could not hold a charge above 6 volts. Here is a picture of from when I began to realize the problem.




Anyway, when the regulator rectifier tried to charge the battery it caused the entire system to run at 6 volts instead of 12+. Working this all out was really mind boggling. Because my electrical system worked great (12v) at idle to 2,500 RPM at which point it would reduce to 6 volts at 3,000 RPM and above. Go figure?!

What made all things worse, is my AC powered lights are controlled by a DC relay. So the AC system which is separate was affected because the DC relay would only get 6 volts at top power instead of 12 volts causing the lights to dim and then shut off.

Just telling you all this so no one else has to relive the experience.

dave

New battery, all problems solved.
You know I believe I have had this exact same quandary facing me. The bike was new to me and on a "shakedown" run the lights dimmed and then went totally out. Of course it was a moonless night and I was on a very dark tree lined road through a valley. I hadn't got twenty miles into the bike yet and I was riding it home it pitch black darkness with no lights.

I've been trying to learn the cause of the fault and chase the homemade (By P.O.) wiring harness. I did discover the battery was only holding about a 1.2 volt charge. It was a 1.2 AH battery just as in your pic. It's been a headscratcher for sure.

Of course the IMS tank decided to split on me and dump all the gas (IMS replaced it for free without a receipt or any bellyaching!) Then I had to start some other farkling. Long story short my pig has been in the garage being worked on (slowly albeit) pretty much since the day I bought it.

I have got a replacement battery and this inspires me to finish and hook it up and see if I'm cured. I'd love to get this pig out in West Texas this spring!
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Old 02-21-2010, 04:06 PM   #185
Rydah
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AC, DC Ground

Okay, shed some light on grounding for me, please. I'm running the BD dual wound stator (125W x2) with one leg supplying the DC side through a BD Reg/Rec, and the other leg through the stock AC regulator. What is the proper way to ground these two systems? The BD site is about as clear as mud to an untrained mind such as mine:

https://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20W...0Universal.pdf
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:54 PM   #186
Rockdodger
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AC okay for heated liner?

Long time listener, first time caller...

I have an XRR Baja Designs d/s kit with the Baja Designs dual-output 2X125w stator.

The lights and other DC stuff work fine off the one 125w output. However, I want to add a Gerbing heated liner and also heated grips. My question: Can I run the liner and grips off the 125w AC output? If so, is there a decent way to control the temp. of the liner? (I believe most/all controllers require 12VDC?) I don't mind that the grip warmers/liner will only work when the engine's running.

Also, any pointers on running my Garmin 60cx off the bike's power? Thanks.

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Old 02-23-2010, 06:19 AM   #187
4play
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I combined my two 125w outputs through a Ricky Stator 250w regulator.
According to BD that gives you 200w of DC.
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:47 AM   #188
peterhively
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockdodger
Long time listener, first time caller...

I have an XRR Baja Designs d/s kit with the Baja Designs dual-output 2X125w stator.

The lights and other DC stuff work fine off the one 125w output. However, I want to add a Gerbing heated liner and also heated grips. My question: Can I run the liner and grips off the 125w AC output? If so, is there a decent way to control the temp. of the liner? (I believe most/all controllers require 12VDC?) I don't mind that the grip warmers/liner will only work when the engine's running.

Also, any pointers on running my Garmin 60cx off the bike's power? Thanks.
I have the same setup as you, I put the grips on the AC side, no controller, just an hi/lo/off switch. I am running a 55/60W headlight. I put my Gerbing's jacket liner and controller on the DC side. Both work great now.

Peter
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:49 PM   #189
Rydah
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Still hava ing problem and need help. I've got a BD dual wound stator (2 x 125W) with one leg going through a rec/reg to power my BD dual sport kit on DC. The other leg goes through the stock AC regulator. I have a Buell dual headlight mounted on the bike, and I have the 55W low beam running off the DC side of the system, controlled by the switch, and it works fine. I've tried wiring the second light for high beam, by using a 30A, 12V SPST relay from the auto parts store. I have the yellow, high beam wire from the switch triggering the relay, with common DC ground opposite it. The other side of the relay has AC wired directly from the AC reg. and to the high beam light on the opposite side. AC ground from the high beam light goes back to the regulator (floated ground). Low beam works fine, but when I switch to high beam, I get no light, and the relay starts making a "whirriing" noise (like a small electric motor). I turn back to low beam and it is still fine.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Are relays specific to AC or DC, or should I be able to run both through the same unit?
Thanks.

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Old 03-21-2010, 11:56 AM   #190
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah
Still hava ing problem and need help. I've got a BD dual wound stator (2 x 125W) with one leg going through a rec/reg to power my BD dual sport kit on DC. The other leg goes through the stock AC regulator. I have a Buell dual headlight mounted on the bike, and I have the 55W low beam running off the DC side of the system, controlled by the switch, and it works fine. I've tried wiring the second light for high beam, by using a 30A, 12V SPST relay from the auto parts store. I have the yellow, high beam wire from the switch triggering the relay, with common DC ground opposite it. The other side of the relay has AC wired directly from the AC reg. and to the high beam light on the opposite side. AC ground from the high beam light goes back to the regulator (floated ground). Low beam works fine, but when I switch to high beam, I get no light, and the relay starts making a "whirriing" noise (like a small electric motor). I turn back to low beam and it is still fine.
Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Are relays specific to AC or DC, or should I be able to run both through the same unit?
Thanks.
Well you've got your light wired correctly. The contacts in the relay don't care if it's AC or DC running through it but the coil (the magnet that closes the switch) will only only work with DC. I'd say you've got a bad relay or it's hooked up wrong. Most relays will have a little diagram printed on the side showing the pin out. Try connecting the light directly from the regulator without the relay (or the switch) to confirm that it's the problem.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:03 PM   #191
Rydah
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When I bypassed the relay and hooked it up directly, the light worked just fine, so maybe it is the relay. It is a 12V, 30A, four prong (spst) relay, hooked up in typical style; AC in on #30, out to light on #87, DC switched on #85 and DC ground on #86. AC ground from light goes back to AC reg.

I'll try to swap out the relay tomorrow, but is there anything else it could be? Is there anything I need to check on the ground, or the DC switched side? Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-21-2010, 09:29 PM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydah
When I bypassed the relay and hooked it up directly, the light worked just fine, so maybe it is the relay. It is a 12V, 30A, four prong (spst) relay, hooked up in typical style; AC in on #30, out to light on #87, DC switched on #85 and DC ground on #86. AC ground from light goes back to AC reg.

I'll try to swap out the relay tomorrow, but is there anything else it could be? Is there anything I need to check on the ground, or the DC switched side? Thanks for the help.
You could use a battery or a 12vdc power supply to test the relay. When power is connected to terminals 85 & 86 you should hear it click. I would also measure the voltage from the yellow wire (high beam +) and the ground for the relay. If you have a bad ground or something goofy with the light switch and the relay isn't seeing 12v it will buzz but not switch.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:49 AM   #193
Rydah
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Well, turns out it was a grounding problem after all. Fixed, and all good now. Thanks for all the replies.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:13 PM   #194
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Finally - A lurker no more...

I'm new to the XRR family as of a few weeks ago (bought a clean '03)... Working to get her street legal in Colorado, which of course means Nissin switch / and new brake light / horn. I picked up a BD LED rear light, and I'm going to see if I can get away without upgrading the driving light to hi/low beam light, yet. (Based on this thread I'm sure I'll do the BD stator upgrade at some point...)

So here's my extraordinarily basic questions:

Where should I tap into power for: A) 1.5Amp generic moto horn & B) brake light ... ? (Can I just use the rear running light lead for all 3: running light, brake Light and horn...?)

And with the basic generic horn that has two tabs on the side... I'm assuming I just run a hot wire to the handle bar switch, then to 1 of the 2 horn tabs, and then a wire from the other horn tab to ground (like under the horn bolt), correct?

Great thread guys...

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Old 03-24-2010, 12:53 AM   #195
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So you want to add a brake light and a horn without installing a DSK or even a dual sport handle bar switch? They don't ask much in Colorado do they?

It's pretty straight forward: Behind the headlight you'll find a green wire and a blue wire. They power the headlight and are regulated 12 vac. Tap into the blue wire and run that to one side of your horn. Get an old kill switch, the type that grounds out to the handle bar, and connect it to the other side of the horn. Press the kill button and it should beep. Although I've never tried to power one of those horns with AC but I think it will work.

The tail light is pretty basic also and LEDs operate on AC or DC so you're set there. Under the seat you'll find a green wire and a brown wire going to the tail light. Un-plug them and connect the ground for the new tail light (black wire) to the green wire. Connect the brown wire to the red wire on the new tail light. You'll also want to connect another lead to the brown wire and it will go to the brake switch. Connect the other wire from the brake switch to the blue wire on the new tail light. That's it, nothing to it.

If you go to www.Trailtach.net you can get the oem style bullet connectors and the crimping tool and do a proper job of it. Good luck at the inspection.
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