XR650R electricity

[joenuclear]

Originally Posted by Countdown

Yes but the DC system must float from the frame.

What language is this that you are speaking?

[trackhead]

Originally Posted by Countdown

Yes but the DC system must float from the frame.

Meaning the DC system ground is isolated from the ground on from the AC system, which is the frame?

Yeah, right now the DC tail lights/blinkers/horn are all ground to the battery, isolated from the frame.

[XRider]

Originally Posted by trackhead

Meaning the DC system ground is isolated from the ground on from the AC system, which is the frame?

Yeah, right now the DC tail lights/blinkers/horn are all ground to the battery, isolated from the frame.

Most people find it easier to float the AC ground because it's usually only powering the headlight were as the DC circuit is powering the tail light, blinkers, gps, battery, etc.

The proper way to hook up a DC reg/rect is to connect the 2 stator leads to the yellow wires on the reg/rect. Do not ground ether of the yellow wires or the stator wires. The red and black wires go to the battery. If you float the AC ground the black wire also goes to the frame.

[jesusgatos]

Wow. LOTS of good info here. Stayed up way too late last night trying to get through it all. Turns out XRider is only a few minutes away from me, so I'm going to go visit him this afternoon.

[Jaronimo]

Gday fellas
I have an aussie xr650r with the 70w stator as stock, Ive upgraded my headlight to a 55/60w h4 BD style, running LEDS in the indicators with an electronic flasher and LED tail light, Im just after a decent headlight no DC at all

the question I have is will I need to upgrade to a HD ac regulator tho I have no need for a DC system , will the OEM headlight switch handle the 60w highbeam or low beam circuit? should I get an aftermarket BD switch?

I would like to know in advance if the standard honda stuff can handle twice the wattage before something burns out on the trail, any info would be great

[XRider]

The stock equipment should be OK but you are at the limit of what it can handle. To be on the safe side you can put a fuse on the headlight, the AC reg will be fine.

[dbarale]

A question for XRrider...
I am "dualsporting" an '88 XR250R, I am undecided between two options for the electrical system:
- Run the factory AC for the lights (35/35W front and 6/21W rear) and run a total loss (floating) system for the horn which is the only DC accessory that I will need to be street legal here in NC. Power will most likely be provided by two 6V lantern batteries or some similar cheap setup.
- Run everything through a BajaDesign reg/rec and use a little el-cheapo ebay battery like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pcs-12V-1300ma...item2a064e17f1
In this case I would probably use LED for the tailight.

What do you think makes more sense and will provide the most light output?

[XRider]

If it wasn't for the horn you could get away without the battery, the LED tail light will work on AC. If it were mine I'd tape 8 AA batterys together for the horn just to pass inspection and do without the DC system all together. If you must have the horn then make the whole system DC (lights and all) and forget about making a dual voltage system. Just disconnect the stock AC reg and connect the stator wires to the DC reg/rect and connect your lights there.

[dbarale]

Thanks, I didn't think about the fact that the LED taillight should have an integrated rectifier... Do you know if the LED replacement bulbs can also take AC?

I also found this on Fleabay for $3 shipped:



I will go for AC lights/DC horn for now. If I end up using the bike a lot I will go for an upgraded stator and full DC system with battery, turn signals and all that crap...

Thanks again,

Daniel

[kthpick]

Originally Posted by dbarale

A question for XRrider...
I am "dualsporting" an '88 XR250R, I am undecided between two options for the electrical system:
- Run the factory AC for the lights (35/35W front and 6/21W rear) and run a total loss (floating) system for the horn which is the only DC accessory that I will need to be street legal here in NC. Power will most likely be provided by two 6V lantern batteries or some similar cheap setup.
- Run everything through a BajaDesign reg/rec and use a little el-cheapo ebay battery like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pcs-12V-1300ma...item2a064e17f1
In this case I would probably use LED for the tailight.

What do you think makes more sense and will provide the most light output?

Sounds like wheeling cycle supply has the parts you need in there EZ electric wire kit. You can buy the parts separately!

• easy-to-install electrical parts (excluding headlight, tail light and flashers) for competition bikes
• installation made easy, even if you have no experience
• power source for this kit is completely self-contained (using 8 double-AA batteries)
• no need to 'chop' into your wiring harness
• Moto LED tail lights and flashers are recommended

[XRider]

[quote=dbarale]Thanks, I didn't think about the fact that the LED taillight should have an integrated rectifier... Do you know if the LED replacement bulbs can also take AC?


The LED version of an 1157 bulb should work on AC. LEDs don't care what kind of power you light them with.

[dbarale]

Originally Posted by XRider

[
The LED version of an 1157 bulb should work on AC. LEDs don't care what kind of power you light them with.

Interesting, aren't LED's polarity sensitive? I guess they would light up during half a cycle anyway, which is probably still plenty enough as they have no ramp up time.
My (very basic) knowledge of these things is way outdated, time for some Googling and some reading...

[JTucker]

I have an 05 running the stock stator all ac, the led turn signals come on but I have not gotten hold of a flasher that will work. Suggestions?

Also, the bike came with a terrible Acerbis DHH light, any experience with the trail tech x2 type lights? I would really like a halogen 8in race light but I don't really have the money to spend at the moment. It is street legal too, not sure if they're too bright for road use.

[XRider]

Getting your LED turn signals the blink requires a solid state flasher. Problem is a solid state flasher won't work on AC and a tin can flasher won't work with LEDs. If you replace 2 of the 4 LED turn signals with bulbs then a tin can flasher should work.

Race lights:
I can't say for all of the states but out here in California for your headlight to be street legal it must have a high and low beam and no brighter than 55/60 watts. Since most of the 8" race lights are 100w with no high beam they wouldn't be legal here. What I do to get around this is install one of my light bars that has two 55w halogens that mounts below the headlight. So I have the 55w low beam and when I switch on the high beam everything goes on. That gives me 170w all pointing down the trail (2 x 55w + 60w) and it works very well.

[Garthe]

XRider, do you have any pictures of your set up...Thanks, Jim

Originally Posted by XRider

Getting your LED turn signals the blink requires a solid state flasher. Problem is a solid state flasher won't work on AC and a tin can flasher won't work with LEDs. If you replace 2 of the 4 LED turn signals with bulbs then a tin can flasher should work.

Race lights:
I can't say for all of the states but out here in California for your headlight to be street legal it must have a high and low beam and no brighter than 55/60 watts. Since most of the 8" race lights are 100w with no high beam they wouldn't be legal here. What I do to get around this is install one of my light bars that has two 55w halogens that mounts below the headlight. So I have the 55w low beam and when I switch on the high beam everything goes on. That gives me 170w all pointing down the trail (2 x 55w + 60w) and it works very well.