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Old 05-10-2010, 03:29 AM   #226
mazman808
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Guys, i need some help.
Ill try to explain what i want and what i already have, and if someone can help me out with telling me how to wire it up, id appreciate it greatly...

I have a xr650r '05, Australian model.
It comes standard with headlights, blinkers, tail lights.

I have bought a ricky stator 200w and installed it, but am having trouble with the wiring diagram thats supplied and not sure how to go about connecting up the wiring to the harness.
Also the plugs from the ricky stator is a bit different to the AUS spec xr650r, i have drawn quickly a diagram of what my OEM harness is vs what the ricky stator harness is, please have a look and tell me wich plugs from the ricky stator go to the wiring on my OEM wires:



Im guessing the two male bullets ( black/red and brown ) on both harness go together?
The rest of the ricky stator wires are different and is not a plug like on my hondas harness! ( plug is a 6 pin but has only 5 wires to it ).

What i want:
1). No battery to be used ( no need )
2). Im upgrading headlights- minimum 50/60w halogen conversion but if possible, if im able to id like to run twin headlights, one 55w and a high beam say 70w or 100w(is that possible?)
3). Heater grip elements
4). Trail tech vapor
I dont think ill be running anything else, i was thinking gps ( but never need it, and a cigaret lighter but not sure if ill need that either).

Whats the best way to connect up the stator to use what i want above, single output 200w or dual 2x100w and how? im after the simplest way.

This is all new for me and confusing, so if explained in the simplest terms would be ideal :P
Basically, i bought the stator so i can upgrade the headlights, and bought a vapor and heater elements in the meantime as well and want it connected.

Thank you to all
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:26 AM   #227
RideFreak
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Leds don't have an integrated rectifier, just a diode inline that lets the correct polarity current flow through the the LED.

I guess some would call that a rectifier.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:47 AM   #228
tarzan30
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electical questions .. im at a loss again!

Here is my issue.

I have a rewound stator comes up to stock regulator under seat.
from there i have a big red wire from the white. it goes up to run head light.

from the front it splits to headlight one to horn and one to my new recifier.

My old recitifier died. i bought two ones for a replacement. I know i should only need one.

I have one power source Red with a regulated 12-14v AC current.

now here is my issues.

I have one recitifer in right now.. just has two posts. one with a red mark and one negitive. I have it hooked up right now and it looks like i get only 6-7v DC.

I have another rectifier with 4 posts two marked AC and one pos and one negitive.

How should i hookup my one big red power with a regulated 12-14AC to the 4 post rectifier. This is a rectifier from a welder it is 35Amp and should handle any current i can put threw it.

Do i need another AC split fromt he big red one? to go to both AC posts on the recifier? How do i hookup the Pos and Neg on the rectifier?

I just need this to maintain a charge to my battery. Right now with the two post i dont get enough juice to keep batt charged its only giving me 6-7v DC.



Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:57 AM   #229
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Tarzan,
The rectifier that came from the welder is bridge or full wave rectifier and it will turn AC into DC but it splits the AC signal in half to do it. So if you put 12-14 volts in you get 6-7 back out. The power has to go through it unregulated (from the stator) with a dc regulator in-line after the rectifier. You're probably better off getting a regulator/rectifier from Ricky or Baja D. and connecting it to one of the windings of your stator. Use the other stator winding for the AC and float the ground. Trying to use a regulated AC power sorce for a dc rectifier is never going to work because you can't float the AC ground.
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Old 05-10-2010, 12:27 PM   #230
tarzan30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
Tarzan,
The rectifier that came from the welder is bridge or full wave rectifier and it will turn AC into DC but it splits the AC signal in half to do it. So if you put 12-14 volts in you get 6-7 back out. The power has to go through it unregulated (from the stator) with a dc regulator in-line after the rectifier. You're probably better off getting a regulator/rectifier from Ricky or Baja D. and connecting it to one of the windings of your stator. Use the other stator winding for the AC and float the ground. Trying to use a regulated AC power sorce for a dc rectifier is never going to work because you can't float the AC ground.

Thanks for the reply. I am not saying going to a BR or ricky is not the right solution ... but.. when it "bike" was purchased .. it worked to charge the battery. now that the rectifier died the advice i get from more than you.. "please dont take offence" is exactly what your saying above.

My issues and "stuborness" is that it used to work.

Just to get it into my thick head and the recitfier i bought was 20$ "from a good friend at cost"

It is not possible to get 12v DC from a regulated AC circuit with just one lead going into a DC rectifier?

I keep thinking if i am getting 12-14 AC why cant i convert it to 12-14DC. Electrical is by far my worst area.

I i have the sign wave and we are talking AC here is what i think i understand

it should go up 12v AC back down to 0 then down 12v AC and UP12>Down12>UP12>Down12 repeat?

For the rectifier if it is doing the above "up,down" does it just not flip the down to go Up .. Up .. Up.

i may be very simple but i thought i could do that. I have also read that there is a cost to the rectifier conversion? Or do you think both rectifiers i bought are not full wave>? Is that why you say it should be un regulated??

Thanks for all the help sorry if i seem a little slow! I do appreciate the hand holding!

Cheers
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:28 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe
XRider, do you have any pictures of your set up...Thanks, Jim
Yes, I've got some pictures of the light bar. I'll upload them to my photobucket and post them.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:01 PM   #232
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarzan30
Thanks for the reply. I am not saying going to a BR or ricky is not the right solution ... but.. when it "bike" was purchased .. it worked to charge the battery. now that the rectifier died the advice i get from more than you.. "please dont take offence" is exactly what your saying above.

My issues and "stuborness" is that it used to work.

Just to get it into my thick head and the recitfier i bought was 20$ "from a good friend at cost"

It is not possible to get 12v DC from a regulated AC circuit with just one lead going into a DC rectifier?

I keep thinking if i am getting 12-14 AC why cant i convert it to 12-14DC. Electrical is by far my worst area.

I i have the sign wave and we are talking AC here is what i think i understand

it should go up 12v AC back down to 0 then down 12v AC and UP12>Down12>UP12>Down12 repeat?

For the rectifier if it is doing the above "up,down" does it just not flip the down to go Up .. Up .. Up.

i may be very simple but i thought i could do that. I have also read that there is a cost to the rectifier conversion? Or do you think both rectifiers i bought are not full wave>? Is that why you say it should be un regulated??

Thanks for all the help sorry if i seem a little slow! I do appreciate the hand holding!

Cheers
You know, your are right and I made a mistake. If you in fact have a full wave rectifier and it's hooked up correctly then if you put 12VAC in you should get 12VDC out (or slightly less). You will never get 12VDC out with only 1 AC wire connected to it. You are losing half your voltage somewhere and that can only be a couple of things. Bridge rectifiers have 4 connections with 2 of them marked with a sign wave (connect the AC to these) and a + (DC pos) and a - (DC neg). If that is hooked up correctly the most likely problem is the AC and DC grounds are connected somewhere. Another possable problem is if your battery back has an internal short or is completely dead. If the battery is dead it will pull the voltage down until it's charged. If the battery is shot and won't charge the problem won't go away. One thing to note is that if you're connecting the battery directly to the bridge rectifier then you're going to be over charging the battery all the time and it won't last. One last thing to consider, if the rectifier you are using is from a welder and rated at 30 amps, I'm assuming that's 30 amps at 220 volts or 6600 watts! The part may require more current to turn on than the system can deliver.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:07 PM   #233
Garthe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
Yes, I've got some pictures of the light bar. I'll upload them to my photobucket and post them.
Thank you.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:46 AM   #234
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazman808
Guys, i need some help.
Ill try to explain what i want and what i already have, and if someone can help me out with telling me how to wire it up, id appreciate it greatly...

I have a xr650r '05, Australian model.
It comes standard with headlights, blinkers, tail lights.

I have bought a ricky stator 200w and installed it, but am having trouble with the wiring diagram thats supplied and not sure how to go about connecting up the wiring to the harness.
Also the plugs from the ricky stator is a bit different to the AUS spec xr650r, i have drawn quickly a diagram of what my OEM harness is vs what the ricky stator harness is, please have a look and tell me wich plugs from the ricky stator go to the wiring on my OEM wires:



Im guessing the two male bullets ( black/red and brown ) on both harness go together?
The rest of the ricky stator wires are different and is not a plug like on my hondas harness! ( plug is a 6 pin but has only 5 wires to it ).

What i want:
1). No battery to be used ( no need )
2). Im upgrading headlights- minimum 50/60w halogen conversion but if possible, if im able to id like to run twin headlights, one 55w and a high beam say 70w or 100w(is that possible?)
3). Heater grip elements
4). Trail tech vapor
I dont think ill be running anything else, i was thinking gps ( but never need it, and a cigaret lighter but not sure if ill need that either).

Whats the best way to connect up the stator to use what i want above, single output 200w or dual 2x100w and how? im after the simplest way.

This is all new for me and confusing, so if explained in the simplest terms would be ideal :P
Basically, i bought the stator so i can upgrade the headlights, and bought a vapor and heater elements in the meantime as well and want it connected.

Thank you to all
You've got a tough one there, most of my experiance is with the US version. However, I did figure this out once for another inmate but I can't remember his name. I'll see if I can find my Australian XR schematics.
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Old 05-11-2010, 04:17 AM   #235
thouk
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Mazman and others

Hey Mazman,
Do you have a copy of the Aussie wiring diagram? If so could you email me and I might be able to figure this out.Pm me and I will send you my email address. I looked at the Ricky Stator web site and I can see how your stator is would and outputted. I just dont know what the wires are for on your original harness go to to be able to tell you what to hook up. If you don't have the diagram can you take a picture of the original stator where the wires are on the stator? That way I can see how it is ran. Thanks, Tony
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:33 AM   #236
tarzan30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
You know, your are right and I made a mistake. If you in fact have a full wave rectifier and it's hooked up correctly then if you put 12VAC in you should get 12VDC out (or slightly less). You will never get 12VDC out with only 1 AC wire connected to it. You are losing half your voltage somewhere and that can only be a couple of things. Bridge rectifiers have 4 connections with 2 of them marked with a sign wave (connect the AC to these) and a + (DC pos) and a - (DC neg). If that is hooked up correctly the most likely problem is the AC and DC grounds are connected somewhere. Another possable problem is if your battery back has an internal short or is completely dead. If the battery is dead it will pull the voltage down until it's charged. If the battery is shot and won't charge the problem won't go away. One thing to note is that if you're connecting the battery directly to the bridge rectifier then you're going to be over charging the battery all the time and it won't last. One last thing to consider, if the rectifier you are using is from a welder and rated at 30 amps, I'm assuming that's 30 amps at 220 volts or 6600 watts! The part may require more current to turn on than the system can deliver.

Ok here is the scoop! I called the electic motor guy and here is what i have now confirmed. I havent tested this yet so.. we will see.

My bike runs AC regulated from stock reg. it uses the frame to ground the AC.
My signals and battery do not have a ground.
So he said to connect the full wave rectifier he gave me in this way

Pin 1 says AC
Pin 2 says AC
Pin 3 says +
Pin 4 says -

Connect the Pin 1 to power from Stator regulated
connect the Pin 2 to the ground.. AC neg
Connect pin 3 to + on Battery
connect pin 4 to negitive on battery

Make sure anything signal lights and that circut is not getting grounded. I should be good!

Let me know what you thing about that advice.

Thanks
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tarzan30 screwed with this post 05-11-2010 at 05:45 AM
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:21 AM   #237
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
You know, your are right and I made a mistake. If you in fact have a full wave rectifier and it's hooked up correctly then if you put 12VAC in you should get 12VDC out (or slightly less). You will never get 12VDC out with only 1 AC wire connected to it. You are losing half your voltage somewhere and that can only be a couple of things. Bridge rectifiers have 4 connections with 2 of them marked with a sign wave (connect the AC to these) and a + (DC pos) and a - (DC neg). If that is hooked up correctly the most likely problem is the AC and DC grounds are connected somewhere. Another possable problem is if your battery back has an internal short or is completely dead. If the battery is dead it will pull the voltage down until it's charged. If the battery is shot and won't charge the problem won't go away. One thing to note is that if you're connecting the battery directly to the bridge rectifier then you're going to be over charging the battery all the time and it won't last. One last thing to consider, if the rectifier you are using is from a welder and rated at 30 amps, I'm assuming that's 30 amps at 220 volts or 6600 watts! The part may require more current to turn on than the system can deliver.
Just to clairify, you really won't know if that's a full wave or half wave rect by the leads, you'll need to see the spec sheet or diagram of the internals, full and half wave both have 2 a/c inputs and a + - dc output. In the above configuration, the rect sinewave output is going to be an RMS (root mean square) value of the 12VAC going in, the output is going to be somewhat less (like .717 x the input if I remember correctly) or around 9VDC coming out, a full wave will be smoother with less of a ripple. A reg/rect like the RS or BD is supposed to be run directly off the stator and regulated after the rect. Anotherwords, feed it 14~20VAC and you'll easily get a nice 12VDC out. A correctly wired system should provide a little over 14VDC when revved up a little, with the system's componets running, you'll have a hard time charging a 12V battery if it's max voltage is only 12V. The stator output is a higher voltage output than regulated 12v A/C which helps make up for the loss incurred by the rectification.

Good point about the welder rect XRIDER, I was thinking the same thing, there might not be enough voltage to forward bias the diodes in that rect.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:21 AM   #238
tarzan30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak
Just to clairify, you really won't know if that's a full wave or half wave rect by the leads, you'll need to see the spec sheet or diagram of the internals, full and half wave both have 2 a/c inputs and a + - dc output. In the above configuration, the rect sinewave output is going to be an RMS (root mean square) value of the 12VAC going in, the output is going to be somewhat less (like .717 x the input if I remember correctly) or around 9VDC coming out, a full wave will be smoother with less of a ripple. A reg/rect like the RS or BD is supposed to be run directly off the stator and regulated after the rect. Anotherwords, feed it 14~20VAC and you'll easily get a nice 12VDC out. A correctly wired system should provide a little over 14VDC when revved up a little, with the system's componets running, you'll have a hard time charging a 12V battery if it's max voltage is only 12V. The stator output is a higher voltage output than regulated 12v A/C which helps make up for the loss incurred by the rectification.

Good point about the welder rect XRIDER, I was thinking the same thing, there might not be enough voltage to forward bias the diodes in that rect.
I just called the person who sold me the rectifier. It is indeed a full wave rectifier. The regulator does put out 12v AC at idle and when reved up 14v. I think i should be in a good spot other than the grounding issues. I dont think any of the system how it sits is grounded so a double check and wire it up as in my previous post will give me the true capcity threw and hopefully not to much loss from the rectifier. he did say "no loss" but i will see when it is wired up!

Thanks again i will post to let you know how it goes. This may be a great cheap way to wire up an XR for decent lights and capcity.

rewound stock stator ~50 bucks
stock reg ... free more or less
full wave rectifier 20$
Battery 20 bucks
good headlight 90/100 20$

Grand total 110$ to have lights and gps

Thanks
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:42 AM   #239
mazman808
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Xrider and thouk,
Thanks for trying to help, appreciated, im surprised the aussie guys havent replied as i thought for sure there would of been someone that has done this...

I emailed Ricky stator and got a reply back with a Euro installation diagram, the colouring matches almost perfectly to my aussie spec wiring colours, so following the diagram colour by colour i got everything done and there was only one wire that was a different colour to the euro spec.
As you can see on the euro diagram, out of the 6pin connector there is a white with yellow wire and all i had left with was one brown wire, so i took a chance and hooked it up to that.

The bike starts, runs with all lights, blinkers, stop etc... so im hoping its all good.

If you can, please check over the euro diagram and compare to my picture of a diagram above and see if it seems all good?
If Xrider can still find that diagram he has from his friend that would nicely confirm it :P
Thanks to all for giving me a hand, much appreciated.
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Old 05-15-2010, 11:14 AM   #240
lstzephyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
Basically, besides the flickering, it is just dim and yellow, as you said. I think the stock Baja Designs "DS kit" light put out as much light. My setup for that leg is currently 100W lead -> BD AC rectifier -> high voltage toggle switch (bar mounted) -> 8" race light. There's really nothing in the circuit to sap power, and even at consistant revs the light never gets really bright.

Originally I had the 100W bulb in there and thought the 100W feed might not be putting out enough juice to fully energize that bulb so I put in the 55W, but am getting basically the same amount of light. :(

So at this point I'm a little torn. I'd like to have the DC power and battery so my tail light stays on if the bike stalls, etc., but really am tempted to just chuck it and run the whole system AC.

...thoughts?

Thanks,
D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunslinger1
You may have a ground that is suppose float as opposed to grounding to the frame off your rectifier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
I'm not sure what you mean by a floating ground. The rectifier is grounded to the frame and I've done a continuity check to ensure it was a good ground. Are you saying that the ground isn't supposed to be grounded?

...I'm just not sure I'm following.

Thanks,
D
This is the exact problem I'm having but unfortunately it looks like the issue was solved through pm. Can anybody explain this to me? My rectifiier is grounded, my stator rewound and my 8 inch racelight dim. It was a year ago so I don't want to go throwing pms around trying to dig up an answer from these guys.

The only thing is my taillight is somewhat dim as well. It is all wired through the same rectifier/regulator however. I thought I might have rewound the stator wrong.
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